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#1 | ||||
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New Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Carmichael, CA
Posts: 7
1996 SL2
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I just changed the neutral safety switch on my 96 SL2. My Chilton manual gave clear enough instructions rite up to the adjustment. This is where it gets a little unclear. It says to put the car in drive (engine off of course) and test for continuity. I'm using a digital multimeter to perform the test and have it connected to the correct contacts on the switch according to the diagram in the manual. Measuring OHMs to check for continuity, none exists.
Next the manual says that if no continuity exist (as in my case) rotate the switch in the direction of the engine “otherwise a diagnostic trouble code may result.” I don't want any of those so I did as it said. Here is what I don't understand. Is rotating the switch supposed to create continuity? Because no matter which way I rotate it, with the car in drive, there is no continuity. The manual does not say if there should be continuity after rotating the switch. It simply moves on to the next part of the procedure without any explanation. I would hate to finish only to have the switch not work because it's not adjusted properly. Should I simply rotate it as far as it goes towards the engine and leave it at that? (it's really not a whole lot of rotation) Or do I need to do something different to create continuity when the car is in drive?
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#2 | ||||
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Super Member
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The ohm meter needs to be on the two seperate terminals, one is longer than the other and would have have a single wire connected to it. The other has no wire going to it.
Move the switch all the way to the fender side and then SLOWLY rotate it to the engine. Some where in there it will show one ohm or less resistance. If your multimeter has an audible diode testing position use that and the beep will let you know you are in the right spot. Rotating the switch puts it to the spot that is correct. ... A lousy day in paradise is still a day in paradise.
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#3 | ||||
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New Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Carmichael, CA
Posts: 7
1996 SL2
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Thanks. I'll try that tomorrow. It's too cold in Sacramento, CA right now to go out tonight. We are at 20 year low temperatures right now. I'll post tomorrow night to let you know how it goes.
Last edited by hipstershaun; 01-14-2007 at 10:42 PM.. Reason: typo
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#4 | ||||
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New Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Carmichael, CA
Posts: 7
1996 SL2
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I adjusted the switch and the car still did not start. I confirmed that the starter was getting power when turning the key. So, I replaced the starter and it started up.
Now onto the next problem. The water pump is leaking and I'm off to get a new one now. I know there is probably a good tutorial on this site to help with this issue. I think I will replace all the hoses and clean out the coolant reservoir while I've got it drained.
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#5 | |||||
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Super Member
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Quote:
... Old Saturns never die, people KILL them, so check your damn oil! "Unthinking respect for authority is the greatest enemy of truth." Albert Einstein
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