2000 LS2 3.0 V6 Timing Belt Replacement Pictures

[aaront]

Hi all,

I finally got the pictures off the camera for the timing belt replacement. The clamps were just to hold the new belt in place while it was threaded through.

The tensioners were stamped with "DB - Germany". I wonder if I can "Ask Dr. Z" on the next engine project.

[fdryer]

Those pictures are worth more than a thousand words. In my future could I get away with using one vise grip per pair of cam gears to freeze the timing in place to make easier replacement of the timing belt instead of actually matching timing ticks? It looks do-able from the your pics. Otherwise I'll have to go through the procedures when my L300 is due. Thanks for the pics!

[GregS&L]

Great pictures. Ahh, the versatility of ViceGrips!! No toolbox should be without a set

[finder216]

I'm still not sure...I may take it to the dealer (I'm at 70k right now). Great pics though - Thanks!

[billmessmer]

New to forum, Will be doing Timing belt on wife's L300 soon has 96,000mi
I have the Gates timing belt kit TCK285B and Gates 41142 water pump came with an "O" ring gasket beside the Baum AS4145 with the AS4558 Tension Wrench Is there anything else that I need? I was considering cam and crankshaft seals I really like the Saturn L series but don't know if it will develop any antique value in the future. I intend to get at least 200,000 miles out of this one. My 2.2 has over 130,000 miles, and so far I replaced plugs and the engine sub frame when it rotted out due to rust.
Comments, reply to billmessmer@msn.com

[WaterSprite8]

I have read a bunch of the timing belt/water pump change threads. So, stupid question time.

I have not read anywhere of the pre work involved, IE, how much stuff do I have to remove just to get to the timing chains, water pump, .
I assume Air filter housing, alternator, AC compressor etc.

Assuming that I can ever figure out why our sedan will not start right now, then I am going to have to do the 100,000 mile thing soon, as our sedan currently has right at 97,000 miles on it. In fact, I am not so sure that if I just went ahead and started on the timing chain project, it would be easier to replace the starter at the same time.

[fdryer]

Whoa there!? Stop! Back up the truck!? Engine fails to fire up? Timing belt due? Starter questionable? Talk about information overload...........................

One disaster at a time. There's some major mojo going on with your fine automobile and with a little sorting out, should return your car back to the dependable ride it was before these issues popped up. Starting with the no-start issue.

Is this a starter turns the engine but it won't fire up problem or the starter never runs at all (dead silence when the ignition switch is turned to the START position)?

[WaterSprite8]

Turn the key to start, nothing, no noise, no grinding, no movement, nothing.
I know the battery is good, I have cleaned the battery cables at the battery connection. Tried starting in neutral.

With the key in the on position, we held a wire on the starter, then touched the positive post on the side of the fuse block, it started right up and ran like a swiss watch. Turned it off, same thing, no noise, movement, nothing. Dead in the driveway.

So, to answer the question, absolute dead silence when I turn the key to start.

[fdryer]

OK, more info for clarity. There's either a serious battery cable issue of corrosion or a starting circuit problem. Battery cables are easy to examine for exterior corrosion but more difficult when hidden under insulation so disconnection and inspection of battery negative is first. If necessary, cut and peel back the heavy insulation on terminals to reveal hidden corrosion if a side terminal battery cracked and leaks battery acid into a terminal to eat away copper wires. Red positive terminals sometimes become compromised from battery side terminal failure and the cable won't carry the large current for starter power. Cables and ground need to be checked. If there's any doubt, have the battery tested at any store selling car batteries. Next is checking the starting circuit.

The START signal (12v) goes from the ignition switch's START wire (yellow) to the Park/Neutral safety switch and on to the starter solenoid as a small gauge purple wire on its own terminal. You can disconnect this wire from the starter solenoid terminal and measure it for 12v with either a multimeter out test light while someone turns the ignition switch to the START position; 12v on this wire only in START position. Disconnecting this wire allows testing without fear of the starter powering up. If all checks go without revealing anything wrong, the starter is a likely problem.