thunk, thunk, kerlunk, and the window won't go up

[AltF4]

When I powered down my drivers window, it went thunk, thunk, kerlunk, and fell into the door. Now it won't power up. I searched and read everything I could find on the board, but before I take it in to the shop (for ~$170 part and 2.2 hrs =$400 regulator assy fix!), I'd like to feel pretty sure that that's really the problem. Most of the posts here talk about partial problems and windows that were giving some indication of failure, but mine wasn't giving any problems at all.

The window motor had never grumbled or made any noise before this and the window worked smoothly like hot knife thru butter. If I had to guess, I'd say the window fell off the track. But, when I called around to see about fixing it, the answer I got was that it was prolly the window regulator assy.

There's no Saturn dealer/shop on this island, and I'm a little nervous about taking it to the GM place. Last time when they replaced the PCM, they boogered up the dash clips/velcros and even broke one of the rivets on the vin plate - now the dash rattles like a bear and I just don't think they're very used to working with plastic cars. So, I'm not too enthused about letting them take the door skin off - maybe I'm just paranoid....but the price they want for the part and to replace the regulator is pretty high, and if its not just that, then it'll be a couple of days with no car cuz they have to order everything from the saturn on Oahu and if not in stock they have to order from the mainland.

Right now, I've taped a plexi window in place with electrical tape - LOL - works pretty good and doesn't look too mickeymouse. So, I have a little time to figure out the best approach and hopefully pin down the right diagnosis. I don't have a garage/carport, and altho I like to do a lot of stuff, this might be a bit out of my league for diy.

From what I've read in other models, there is a plastic channel the window sits in and given how bleeping hot it was in the car the day this happened, I could conceptualize the channel being the problem. I could also see how it might be the two window nuts (thunk, thunk), snapping (is that even possible?).

I didn't find any posts specific to 96 SC2 with just a dropped, not failing, window....anyone out there have some input?

[sunshn1972]

Do you think you'd feel comfortable removing the outer door skin? All I needed to remove mine was a #30 Torx wrench bit. If you can get the outer skin off you can then peel back the liner and see the entire window regulator and window. You might be able to figure out what's going on if you could see it. If nothing else, you could push your window back up and tape it into place.

[96SaturnSc1cp]

same thing recently happened to me. i removed the dent resistant door skin with the torx thing and i found out the guy who installed the motor for the power window didnt use the lock washer nut, and the bottom bolt fell out and the top one was really loose. so i put it in with some locktite(recommended) and tightened em all up. what happend is that the motor is loose and moves around so the sprockets teeth dont line up correctly. never only took a min to remove door skin. just make sure to take of the door linng that runs from side mirror to by door handle. also you need to lift up on door handle pull the little pin out and slide the door handle off and the door skin will lift right out. had to do it twice now. once to fix the window motor and the other to clean out all the glass when my car got broken into. good luck tell us how it goes.

[AltF4]

Originally Posted by sunshn1972

Do you think you'd feel comfortable removing the outer door skin? All I needed to remove mine was a #30 Torx wrench bit. If you can get the outer skin off you can then peel back the liner and see the entire window regulator and window. You might be able to figure out what's going on if you could see it. If nothing else, you could push your window back up and tape it into place.

I was thinking of taking off the skin...but feeling kinda skittish when it comes to bodywork on my own (plus the plexi bandaid is working okay 'cept when I visited the driveup window at BK!) What sorta has me nervous is the rusted out bottom metal corner of the door frame (where I can see one of the torx head screw things). If the framemounting metal disintegrates when I'm taking off the skin, I'll be the lucky inventor of a new sideview bodyfoil. hehheh.

What happens when the torx screw mounts are trashed, and corners of the skin don't hold themselves back on? Is there a way to juryrig a missing torx screw mount? More electrical tape? hah.

yeah yeah, I should probably just go for it and stop thinking so hard (worryworting), but its the only ride I've got, and a 40 mile commute. Then again, it would cost even more beaucoup bucks if the GM folks had to do some unexpected doorframed metal work....*sigh*

[AltF4]

Originally Posted by 96SaturnSc1cp

same thing recently happened to me. i removed the dent resistant door skin with the torx thing and i found out the guy who installed the motor for the power window didnt use the lock washer nut, and the bottom bolt fell out and the top one was really loose. so i put it in with some locktite(recommended) and tightened em all up. what happend is that the motor is loose and moves around so the sprockets teeth dont line up correctly. never only took a min to remove door skin. just make sure to take of the door linng that runs from side mirror to by door handle. also you need to lift up on door handle pull the little pin out and slide the door handle off and the door skin will lift right out. had to do it twice now. once to fix the window motor and the other to clean out all the glass when my car got broken into. good luck tell us how it goes.

thanks for the tip, I'll add locktite to my short list. Guess I'll pick up a torx bit tomorrow and give it a go.