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Old 03-18-2006, 03:26 PM   #1
nmsaty
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1993 SL2
Wrench Idler pulley and/or tensioner pulley replace

Every morning or everytime I start my SL2 I get that annoying squeal noice. I live in WI so that is part of the reason being winter. Anyway is it neccessary to replace the idler pulley and tensioner pulley or one or the other. I don't follow what the difference is between the two. I just want to know how to make that squeal go away. It is a bearing in there that is going I assume?

thanks

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Old 03-18-2006, 04:04 PM   #2
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Default Re: Idler pulley and/or tensioner pulley replace

Quote:
Originally Posted by nmsaty
Anyway is it neccessary to replace the idler pulley and tensioner pulley or one or the other.
I just did this job a week ago. If you're replacing the tensioner (about $88 on Saturnparts.com) you might as well replace the idler pulley at the same time. For both jobs you need to remove the serpentine belt, and the idler only costs about $18, so it makes little sense to postpone the idler replacement if you're already doing the tensioner replacement.

The How-To Library has a detailed procedure. Some have recommended removing the upper engine mount to improve access, but I did not need to. I got the idler pulley bolt out with a 13mm, six point box end wrench. The two tensioner bolts were 10mm, and I believe the tensioner pulley bolt was 14mm.

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Old 03-18-2006, 11:16 PM   #3
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Default Re: Idler pulley and/or tensioner pulley replace

You do not have to replace the idlers. You can simply remove them, pop off the bearing seal and clean the bearings then repack them.

--Joe

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Old 03-19-2006, 06:05 PM   #4
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Default Re: Idler pulley and/or tensioner pulley replace

SO, is it the pulley or the tensioner that is going and causing the sqealing, and whining noise?

HELP!

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Old 03-19-2006, 06:10 PM   #5
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Default Re: Idler pulley and/or tensioner pulley replace

Just listen closely with the car idling in park. My suggestion is to start with the idler since it only costs you time to remove/clean/repack and reinstall.

If it still makes noise then your next option is the tensioner.

--Joe

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Old 03-19-2006, 06:31 PM   #6
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Default Re: Idler pulley and/or tensioner pulley replace

Quote:
> Fm Joe <
> You can simply remove them, pop off the bearing seal and clean the bearings then repack them <
I actually tried that, however, found that the wear of the bearing, simply did not justify not replacing the actuall bearing. They cost in the 4-8 dollar range.

In my case, I repacked one unit, and found that it did not guide smoothly, as was the case with every new unit.

...
> 95 SL 2 = 649,619 Miles 40.4 MPG, as of 4/19/11. My manual Radiator Fan Switch, courtesy of Wolfman's patient installation guidance, continues to be.......invaluable <

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Old 03-19-2006, 06:49 PM   #7
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Default Re: Idler pulley and/or tensioner pulley replace

You can't (shouldn't) re-pack the bearings. They are sealed units and not intended to be serviced. They can be replaced. You can replace just the bearing which is what I would reccommend if the pully is not damaged at all, and if you have the means to. If you try to sevice them, they will not last and fail quickly. I work for Gates, we make the tensioners, and pulleys in question here.

...
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If you have a problem, if no one else can help, and if you can find him, maybe you can hire Uzzy.

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Old 03-20-2006, 07:57 AM   #8
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Default Re: Idler pulley and/or tensioner pulley replace

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uzzy
You can't (shouldn't) re-pack the bearings. They are sealed units and not intended to be serviced.
They are sealed the same way wheel bearings are.......and you have to remove the seals and repack the bearing everytime you do brakes.

What is the difference?

--Joe

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Old 03-20-2006, 08:30 AM   #9
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Default Re: Idler pulley and/or tensioner pulley replace

According to NTN the manufacturer they are not to be serviced. And they're cheap enough that replacing them isn't a big deal. You can do it if you like, I'm just telling you that they are not intended to be greased. Once that cover is removed it can't be replaced properly and therefore contaminents invade the bearings and they break down quickly. Just letting you know what I was told.

...
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...
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Old 03-20-2006, 09:21 AM   #10
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Default Re: Idler pulley and/or tensioner pulley replace

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uzzy
According to NTN the manufacturer they are not to be serviced. And they're cheap enough that replacing them isn't a big deal. You can do it if you like, I'm just telling you that they are not intended to be greased. Once that cover is removed it can't be replaced properly and therefore contaminents invade the bearings and they break down quickly. Just letting you know what I was told.
Fair enough.......thanks for the information.

--Joe

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Old 03-20-2006, 10:05 AM   #11
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Default Re: Idler pulley and/or tensioner pulley replace

Quote:
>Fm Uzzy <
You can't (shouldn't) re-pack the bearings.
They shouldn't be repacked.

Quote:
>Uzzy<
According to NTN the manufacturer they are not to be serviced.
THAT makes more sense; However, they can be repacked. The issue is, is it worth it.

And the NTN number is # 6203.

...
> 95 SL 2 = 649,619 Miles 40.4 MPG, as of 4/19/11. My manual Radiator Fan Switch, courtesy of Wolfman's patient installation guidance, continues to be.......invaluable <

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Old 03-20-2006, 06:02 PM   #12
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Default Re: Idler pulley and/or tensioner pulley replace

turn the engine off and give the belt a tug in upward direction. if the belt hardly moves of moves more than about an inch or so it is time to replace the tensioner. start the engine and put a long screwdriver on the head of the bolt on the idler and listen. if the noise comes through the screwdriver it is time to replace the idler. do NOT try to repack the idler. its only a couple of bucks and is one 13mm bolt. just replace it.

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