|03-14-2006, 03:54 AM||#1|
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: long beach ca
2000 L-Series 2.2L Sedan
How To: Saturn L 2.2 Timing Chain [VERY img heavy]
I promised I'd do this, and I might as get this over with. DO NOT attempt this without somewhat of an idea how this all goes together, as I did this a week ago and lost a few pages of notes. I cannot be responsible for any problems or inaccuracies in this, this is only a basic walkthrough. If you think you are adept enough to attempt this endeavour, make sure to buy the Haynes manual also, it has torque specs and some details I might have forgotten.
I lost a batch of pictures involving a formatted camera card, so some parts don't have pictures, but luckily the Haynes manual seems to have all the pertaining illustrations!
I gather you are using the recalled kit I posted about here
Tools you will need:
3/8" breaker bar
5/8" Spark Plug Socket
13/15mm combo wrench (closed ends preferred)
5/32" 3/16" & 3/8" hex sockets
32mm socket or wrench
15/16" OPEN end wrench. 2 are best!
10mm nut driver
10mm socket (deep AND shallow pref.)
Jack Stands +Jack
Pull the 15amp fuel fuse, and crank the engine to purge the fuel lines of pressure.
Jack up the car, remove airbox, purge solenoid, and intake pipe, remove the Throttle body, which is 2 10mm nuts and 2 10mm bolts. Disconnect the purge line from the TB, as well as remove the fuel lines from the rail. Also remove the coilpack, which is 4 10mm bolts. Remove the spark plugs with the 5/8" plug socket. Remove pass. wheel splash shields.
Remove the valve cover, its all 10mm bolts. Make sure to remove the whole bolt+rubber washer, as they can fall out and you are left with a leaky valve cover.
Tip: I removed the ABS sensor off the pass side innter wheelwell so I could pull the entire harness off the top of the engine..
I removed the pass wheel, brake rotor, and tied the caliper to allow the best access to the front case: (Also, lift the engine from the flat part of the oilpan and remove the engine mount.
Remove fan belt assembly using the 3/8" breaker bar in the square hole provided:
Remove the belt, and tensioner with the 5/8" socket. Remove the Crank pulley with the 21mm socket.
Remove the front cover, they are 10mm bolts and one 13mm bolt through to the waterpump.
tip:try raising and lowering the engine with the jack to get to all the bolts, there are a pain in the butt to say the least
THE INNARDS OF THE FRONT CASE ARE INCREDIBLY RAZOR @$%@#! SHARP, WEAR LEATHER GLOVES FOR THE LOVE OF YOUR KNUCKLES!!!
VERY IMPORTANT: take the crank pulley, slide it back onto the crank enough so it catches the keyshaft, and turn the engine clockwise by hand until the timing mark on the crank gear is marked with a colored link, then turn the crank counterclockwise 90 degrees so it looks like this: (this clears the valves from the pistons, allowing free rotation of the cams without valve damage)
Remove the Timing chain tensioner, its screwed into the rear of the engine parallel to the Timing chain (You can see it poking out on the left of the pic before the previous picture.
I gather you are using the recalled kit I posted about here
so jam the 15/16" wrench onto the cam right behind the wheel, and remove the intake cam bolt with the 18mm socket. Slide the chain off and remove the wheel.
Do the same for the exhaust. Discard the cam bolts, you have new ones from the kit.
Use a 10mm socket or wrench to remove the adjustable timing tensioner guide pivot bolt. (this is the new tensioner installed, but its the same basic design) Also, remove the fixed guide lower bolt (the old piece is yellow plastic, but the new one is shown as black)
Remove the upper fixed tensioner 10mm bolt, its behind the 3/8" hex plug under the intake cam wheel.
Now slide the now-slack chain off the crank gear, and pull the chain up and out. Make sure to note the colored links on the chain, one silver and copper near to each other, and a silver about twice the distance down the chain to the right from the group of silver and copper(or green haha).
Now you will focus on the bottom, with the balance shafts. You can lower the engine off the jack, as this will allow you to have more access from the wheelwell.
Now, put the crank pulley back on, and slowly rotate the crank 90degrees to the right, allowing the keyway to be vertical. Notice the crank gear for balance shaft has a notch mark at about 5 o'clock.
[i]note: this image has the crank shifted forward about 30 degrees, but the markings for the balance shafts are CORRECT.
CLICK THE IMAGE FOR LARGE SIZE TO READ IT ALL!
Note the silver chainlinks at the CRANK, and the exhaust side (left balance shaft), as well as the COPPER/GREEN mark for the intake side balance shaft. (if its a problem to remember this, its actually written on the balance shafts themselves, thanks GM!)
Okay, now remove the balance shaft tensioner (2 10mm bolts), the tensioner guidepivot bolt, the top chain guide (in between the balance shafts), and the right guide. Remove the balance shaft chain. Clean the balance shaft faces off so you can see the arrows. Align according to the picture above, and reattach the guides, paying attention to not allowing the bal. shafts to shift away from their set links. Notice I put something to keep the bal. chain tensioned while the tensioner was out. IMPORTANT: you need to reset the bal. chain tensioner. Its easy! take your fingers, turn the little nub on the tensioner 90 deegrees then push it in all the way. Turn the nub so the hole in it matches thru the hole in the top of the tensioner, and stick in a safety pin/paperclip. Bolt in the tensioner again, then remove the paperclip/pin. Make sure the tensioner expands fully, and should lock in the open position.
Now pull off the crank main timing gear, and replace it with the new pretty one from the kit.
You're 50% done, congrats!!
I'm going to take a break, this took 2 hours, I'll post the second part later. --Niklas
Feel free to PM me any questions, but please DO NOT reply until I post the second part!
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