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Old 10-14-2001, 08:07 PM   #1
tommy2tone
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Question Clutch Replacement w/o engine removal?

Hey guys! I am interested in replacing my ageing clutch with a dual friction clutch. The problem is that the Haynes manual says that the engine has to be yanked in order to replace the clutch. Does anyone know how to replace the clutch without removing the engine? I don't own an engine hoist nor a garage big enough for one so I would rather not pull the engine. Advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
- Tom

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Old 10-14-2001, 10:14 PM   #2
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The clutch is very removable without removing the engine. It would appear that the Haynes book was writen by a bunch of left handed apes. Either way it's a job and a half if you're not sure how. The engine must be supportted while the trans is out and you must be able to work on top of and below the car. The service departments charge their eight hours on this for a good reason. If you want how I do it let me know.

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Old 10-14-2001, 10:48 PM   #3
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Thanks for the reply ssicarman!
Any info you have on replacing the clutch would be great. Since I am planning on doing it myself, the more instructions and advice I can get, the better! I have replaced a clutch in my old '84 Pontiac Sunbird but that car is much easier to work on than my Satty. Also, if you have any advice on what not to do than that would be helpful, too (example: Don't remove the tranny without draining the fluid).
Thanks.

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Old 10-14-2001, 11:03 PM   #4
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I'll try and get something up tomorrow. It's likely to be long and it's a working day for me tomorrow.

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Old 10-15-2001, 09:30 PM   #5
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Dizzy Clutch R&R My Way

This is usually the way I do it at work. Much easier if you have a hoist to run the car up and down. Am assuming that you don't so try and get the car as high into the air as you can, SAFELY OF COURSE.

The engine will need to be supported, either by an engine support from the top or something from below that will not be in the way.
From the top---Remove the air intake, battery, battery tray/air filter box. Clean off dirt from around the shifter tower/control and the dipstick area. Disconnect the shifter cables from the shifter tower and from the trans. Disconnect the reverse switch from the shifter tower and the speed sensor from the trans--below the shifter cables, can be gotten from above or below and the PCM coolant temp sensor connector. On top of the trans by the dipstick is a locator brace/mount for the trans. Remove the two bolts for it from the trans and flip it up out of the way. Remove the two upper trans to engine bolts. Remove the clutch slave cylinder from the trans. Two nuts to get the bracket loose and then push in and twist the slave out. Place it out of the way where it will not get damaged. Move the wiring up out of the way and maybe good idea to try and do something to keep it out of the way. Now remove the shifter tower and dipstick from the trans (you'll need a new gasket). You should now be done on top of the car.

Remove the L.F. tire., the axle nut from the L.F.. Take off the ball joint cotter pin (replace with new) and nut. Break the BJ taper loose from the hub and move the strut off of the BJ. Take a hammer and TAP the axle loose in the hub. Remove the two plastic shields from the wheel well hiding the trans. Drain the fluid from the trans. Install the drain plug and tighten NOW not later, you'll forget. Use a pry bar on the L.S. axle at the trans to remove it from the trans. Pull the axle out of the hub and then out of the trans and remove from the car. R.S. axle--remove the three bolts on the support hanger and pull the axle out of the trans to pull the snap ring free. It will not come out all the way yet. At the engine to trans, remove the two bolts holding the support bracket to the trans. Remove the three bolts holding the tin inspection(?) cover to the trans. Remove the two lower engine to trans bolts.
Now the only thing holding the trans in should be gravity and two locating dowels. What has to be done now is to remove the trans from the engine and coerce it into the opening between the lower engine cradle frame and the car frame. This takes turning and tweaking the trans from below (usually the best) while at the same time trying to get the R.S. axle out of the trans without damaging the axle seal. Once the trans is in the opening it will rest there very nicely (if you have it jammed in well enough) giving you just enough room to get to the clutch and remove that.
Installation is merely the reverse!!!!!

I have likely forgotten something so if it don't make sense ask.
If you decide to do it good luck.
P.S. there is another way to do it but it involves (in my oipinion) alot more work. The frame has to come out.

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Old 10-15-2001, 10:17 PM   #6
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Wow! Thanks ssicarman! You make it sound so easy. I could probably do it in my sleep. It sounds like your method involves the least amount of dissasembly. That's what I like. I don't understand why one would pull the engine to replace the clutch. It sounds like much more work. I talked to a Saturn service guy and he said that they don't pull the engines to replace clutches. Thank you for taking the time to very explicitly explain how you replace the clutch. I'm on a mission now.
Later.

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Old 10-16-2001, 10:35 AM   #7
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Dizzy

The whole removal process seems straight, but like ssicarman mentioned it's better to do it on a hoist which give you enough clearance and running space in case the trans decided to DROP!

Ssicarman: How heavy is the Tranny by itself, even after draining the fluid I'd say it's like 40-50lbs?!

Is there a need to remove part of the exhaust pipe right under the oil pan to reach the Tranny bolts?!

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Old 10-16-2001, 08:10 PM   #8
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Roll Eyes

I already found one thing that I forgot to mention to remove. The lower transmission mount must be removed from the trans and from the engine cradle. One thing that you should make sure of before you try the clutch job: make sure that you have another form of transport available. You don't want to be stuck if things don't co-operate.
Qlara;
I would think that the trans weighs the better part of 50 pounds. If not a bit more??? I can heft the thing around but its still a bit of a load, not sure because it's unbalanced or just heavy, and I am not exactly a light weight kind of guy. There is no need to remove the exhaust pipe under the car but it can be a squeeze to get the two support bracket bolts out.

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Old 10-17-2001, 07:56 PM   #9
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:o:
At work today and I noticed another thing that I forgot! It is so much easier when it is right in front of you staring you in the face.
Remove the ignition module and coil pack assembly.

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Old 10-18-2001, 11:30 AM   #10
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I'd lean toward a tranny weight of 65 to 75 pounds. I hang out at the gym quite a bit and the tranny feels heavier than a 45 pound plate. Plus, it's a little awkward to handle, so that makes it a little more difficult to judge. It's a little lighter than the O2A tranny in my VW. I dropped that one on my chest while laying under the car--kind of a 2 person job that I decided to try by myself--stupid.

Speaking of weights of stuff--I was shocked at how light the bare engine block was. I was all geared up to lift the block off the engine stand and it ended up being about 50 or 60 pounds! Aluminum--crazy stuff!

Hasta,
-Newt

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Old 10-18-2001, 11:44 AM   #11
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haha i did it the hard way when i did my tranny swap. oh well it worked out fine. it really was pretty simple, we were going to do it the axle way but they were really a pain to take apart the whole hub assembly area. we just litereally unbolted the coilovers from the top, the steering stuff, and the cradle bolts and mounts, and dropped the whole ****ed thing! we supported the engine by makeing a mount out of 2x4's and some straps.

the clutch is very easy to get at when there is no trans there . getting the splines to line up when putting it back in was kinda a pain though.

ian

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Old 10-18-2001, 12:06 PM   #12
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Speaking of lining up the clutch disc--looks like SPS is now selling the plastic alingment tool for a few bucks. I ordered it and it felt a little sloppy to me (I think it'll work just fine--the tool that came with my Neuspeed clutch for the VW felt the same way). So, I measured the inside diameter of the splines on the hub of the clutch disc and also the O.D. on the input shaft and made my own on the lathe. Suh-weeet!

If anyone is interested in making their own, it's merely a cylinder and it's dimensions are:

Dia: 0.830" +0.005, -0.010"
Length: 4.0" +/- 0.5" (not tto critical--just make sure it's a 1/2" long)

You could maybe use a 13/16" diameter rod of anything to do the job as well, but at 0.8125", it will be a little sloppy--more like the plastic ones.

I turned a 120 degree lead-in on the end cuz it looked like it would mate nicely with the drilled hole in the end of the crank. I don't think it's necessary, though. The plastic ones that you buy don't have the taper on the end, so...

So, if you know a machinist, throw him a six pack of old Mil and give him the numbers!

-Newt

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Old 09-01-2005, 09:46 AM   #13
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Default Re: Clutch Replacement w/o engine removal?

Found this thread while looking for tranny weight.
The tool I've used on the older cars is the shaft from a junked tranny of the same type, dont see a reason it wouldnt work on the new ones.

...
97 SW, 96 DOHC, 91 trans, 99 ECU
Is finally running

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