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Old 12-22-2004, 10:52 AM   #1
Twin_Cam
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Wrench Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)

www.xwarlordx.com/twin_cam/tech.html

Many images to help, plus torque values and bolt sizes. Enjoy.

...
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Old 12-22-2004, 01:08 PM   #2
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Default Re: How to change a front hub/bearing on an S-series (pictures included!)

I can only salute you on your outline, detailed & exceptional pictures. Simply fabulous.......

...
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Old 12-22-2004, 05:45 PM   #3
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Default Re: How to change a front hub/bearing on an S-series (pictures included!)

Thank you. Hope it helps people. What the dealer wants to charge you to do it is ridiculous

...
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Old 12-23-2004, 10:48 AM   #4
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Default Re: How to change a front hub/bearing on an S-series (pictures included!)

Granted, and this in violation of the policy of this forum being used only for input of recommended "procedures" for a given work effort, your input, is a very good example of how impressive the professionls have been in the outlining of various work efforts.

...
> 95 SL 2 = 649,619 Miles 40.4 MPG, as of 4/19/11. My manual Radiator Fan Switch, courtesy of Wolfman's patient installation guidance, continues to be.......invaluable <

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Old 12-24-2004, 02:39 PM   #5
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Default Re: How to change a front hub/bearing on an S-series (pictures included!)

I wish I had such detailed information when I changed the from wheel hub on my 1998 Dodge Caravan.

I may not have ended up having to purchase a new steering knuckle due to my getting a bit rambunctious.

Chas

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Old 01-02-2005, 09:46 PM   #6
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Default Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)

This is a great how to outline, it made the job much easier than going in blind. This job is fairly simple given you have all the necessary tools. There is only one thing I would like to add. I had access to a press so I decided to press and bearing and hub myself. After pressing the bearing into the knuckle make sure you support the bearing with somthing other than just the snap ring when pressing the hub in to the bearing/knuckle assembly. I also placed the hub in ice while i ate lunch so that it would be somewhat easier to get the hub pressed in without damaging the bearing.

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Old 10-25-2005, 02:47 PM   #7
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Default Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)

Is it possible to please actually post it in here? The site is currently down

...
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Old 12-01-2005, 06:02 PM   #8
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Default Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)

The site is back up. Sorry to those who had to wait. Cheers.

...
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'05 Honda CR-V- wife's DD and my upright bass hauler
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Old 12-02-2005, 08:02 AM   #9
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Default Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)

I press my own bearings.

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Old 12-06-2005, 05:59 AM   #10
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Default Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)

Was there something wrong with your lower control arm? Is that why it was removed?

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Old 12-10-2005, 03:05 PM   #11
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Default Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)

Your site seems to be down again?

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Old 01-07-2006, 06:37 PM   #12
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Default Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)

Quote:
I press my own bearings.
Ok.

Quote:
Was there something wrong with your lower control arm? Is that why it was removed?
I took it off because I couldn't get the lower ball joint to separate, and the special tool I had wouldn't fit with the CV joint right above it. Plus taking if off allowed my to torque that bolt down, which I otherwise couldn't have done with the control arm on the car because, again, the CV joint is in the way.

Quote:
Your site seems to be down again?
Seems to work for me.

...
'00 SL2m- DD, 186K miles
'05 Honda CR-V- wife's DD and my upright bass hauler
'84 Honda CB650SC Nighthawk- toy

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Old 01-18-2006, 08:43 PM   #13
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Default Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)

Very nice!!! I think my wife could change my wheel bearing for me with this Hey, thats a good idea....................

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Old 01-24-2006, 10:23 AM   #14
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Default Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)

nicely done.

Any other work (mounts, bushings, struts, etc) that you would suggest doing at the same time? Final thought on whether this should be done in pairs (like pads) or is it fine to do one bearing at a time?

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Old 10-26-2006, 11:49 AM   #15
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Default Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)

Anyone know where I can find the info on how to change the wheel bearing. the site seems to be down and im hoping to change mine today. I did it oncde before on the drivers side, so i slightly remember how to do it but the info owuld be nice just so i can oduble check.

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Old 10-28-2006, 01:38 PM   #16
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Default Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)

Quote:
Originally Posted by SWargy
Anyone know where I can find the info on how to change the wheel bearing.
Here's a version from archive.org. It doesn't have any pics though, maybe you can take some when you do the job

How to replace a hub/bearing on an S-series

NOTE: I HIGHLY recommend you have 6-point sockets for this job. It's almost necessary. Some of the bolts are torqued to inifnity and god knows how long they've been there in the elements etc etc...

Another thing: Saturn recommends that if you replace a hub, you should replace the bearing at the same time, and vice-versa. Something to do with them wearing. So although it's not necessary, it is recommended that you replace both at the same time.

1. Somehow gain access to the huge halfshaft nut (the one in the middle of the 4 lug nuts). Take off the wheel cover, or the center cap if you have alloys. If you have aftermarket wheels, take off the center caps or use the spare.

2. Make sure the car is in gear and the parking brake is set TIGHT. Loosen, but do not remove, the halfshaft nut. It requires a 30mm socket, usually sold in the speciality tools section of an automotive store. Use a breaker bar, and a long length of pipe makes life easier...


3. Jack up both sides of the car (even if you're only replacing one bearing, it will relieve stress on the anti-sway bar, and make the job easier) and put it on jackstands.


4. Take out the two caliper guide bolts (14mm).


5. Set the caliper aside (it sits nicely on the anti-sway bar, or you can hang it from the spring with some heavy wire or coat hanger).


6. Remove the brake pads.


7. Remove the two caliper bracket-to-steering knuckle bolts (18mm) and slide the bracket off.


8. Remove the brake rotor.


9. Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut on top of the steering knuckle where it connects to the steering arm and put some penetrating oil on. Loosen the nut (18mm), and unscrew it almost to the end of the bolt, but leave it on.


10. Put on the handy tie rod end puller from Autozone (part # OEM 27022) on as shown. The screw part should come down squarely onto the bolt. Screw it down. This is impressive, and makes a loud pop. The tool with probably also go flying, along with your hands and wrench, so be prepared for skinned knuckles etc etc. Remove the nut, push the bolt down out of the steering knuckle, and push the steering arm off to the side.


11. Put a few marks on the strut/steering knuckle so you can assemble it later and your alignment won't be TOO far off.


12. Loosen, but do not remove, the two strut-to-steering knuckle bolts (21 and 18mm).


13. Remove the cotten pin from the castle nut below the axle/CV joint. Put some penetrating oil on it. Loosen the nut (18mm, you'll need a box-end wrench), but do not take it all the way off.


14. Place a crowbar/long piece of pipe under the frame, but over the sway bar and pry. Hopefully the control arm will pop off (that cool popping noise again). If it doesn't, read on. If it does, remove the castle nut all the way, remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts completely, wiggle the steering knuckle out, and skip to direction #19. If the halfshaft sticks, place a block of wood on the end of the bolt that sticks through the hub, and hit it with a hammer.


15. So, it didn't come off? Lucky you. This was my method. It seemed reasonable at the time. If you can find a better way, more power to you. Remove the control arm-to-frame bolt (15 and 18mm).


16. Remove the control arm-to-swaybar nut (24mm!).


17. Take off completely the strut-to-knuckle bolts. Then just kind of yank on the steering knuckle. You'll have to move stuff around, it'll come out. If the axle is jammed on, place a block of wood onto the bolt that sticks through the hub, and rap on it with a hammer. Success!


18. Apply the tie rod end puller/bolt torture tool to the bolt that holds the control arm on. Again, watch yourself. The tool will go flying, and your wrench too. Once it's free, remove the castle nut all the way.


19. Take the steering knuckle assembly with a new hub and bearing to the Saturn dealer or machine shop and have them press out the old components and press the new ones in. If your dealer is retarded like mine, they'll forget to take out the snap ring that holds the bearing in and break their press and piss you off. When it's done, it'll look like this. Shiny.


20. If you had to take the control arm off, attach the control arm to the knuckle, torquing the bolt to 55 ft-lb (having an assisstant helps). Replace the cotter pin. If you need to move the nut so the cotter pin fits through, always tighten, never loosen. Put all the bolts in and torque them down. The frame-to-control arm bolt is 92 ft-lb for the bolt, or 74 ft-lb for the nut (depends on which side you put the torque wrench). The swaybar-to-control arm nut is 106 ft-lb.

21. Put the axle back through the hub, and manuver the knuckle so it sits in between the two things on the strut. Putting the two bolts through helps keep things in place, and thread the halfshaft nut on a little.

22. Connect the steering arm. Torque the bolt to 33 ft-lb. Remember to replace the cotter pin. (NOTE: The cotter pin should be wrapped around the bolt and through the low spots in the castle nut, like the old one you took off. Pliers work best.)


23. (If you haven't already) put the castle nut onto the control arm bolt under the axle, and torque it to 55 ft-lb. Remember to use a new cotter pin.

24. Tighten the strut-to-knuckle bolts, making sure to line up your alignment marks. Torque them to 126 ft-lb for '96+ cars, or 148 for '91-'95 cars.

25. Tighten down the halfshaft nut so it's fairly snug (remember the washer).

26. Put the rotor back on, threading a lug nut onto the threads to hold the rotor against the hub. This will make it easier to put the caliper bracket on. The caliper bracket bolts get torqued to 81 ft-lb. Put the brake pads back in. Push the caliper back down over the brake pads. Put the caliper guide pins back in (thicker pin goes in the upper hole). Make sure to grease them (white lithium grease works well). Torque them to 27 ft-lb.


27. Put the wheel back on and snug up the lug nuts. Take the car off of the jackstands. Torque the halfshaft nut to 145 ft-lb. Then torque the wheel lug nuts to 103 ft-lb.

28. Before driving the car, press the brake pedal a few times to bring the pads into contact with the rotors again, otherwise you'll get quite a scare the first time you hit the brakes and the pedal goes to the floor!


29. Enjoy your new hubs/bearings. If they were seriously screwed up, you'll notice a significant reduction in road noise, especially when turning.

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Old 03-22-2007, 05:33 PM   #17
Twin_Cam
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Default Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)

UPDATE: Linked pictures from Photobucket

How to replace a hub/bearing on an S-series

NOTE: I HIGHLY recommend you have 6-point sockets for this job. It's almost necessary. Some of the bolts are torqued to inifnity and god knows how long they've been there in the elements etc etc...

Another thing: Saturn recommends that if you replace a hub, you should replace the bearing at the same time, and vice-versa. Something to do with them wearing. So although it's not necessary, it is recommended that you replace both at the same time.

1. Somehow gain access to the huge halfshaft nut (the one in the middle of the 4 lug nuts). Take off the wheel cover, or the center cap if you have alloys. If you have aftermarket wheels, take off the center caps or use the spare.

2. Make sure the car is in gear and the parking brake is set TIGHT. Loosen, but do not remove, the halfshaft nut. It requires a 30mm socket, usually sold in the speciality tools section of an automotive store. Use a breaker bar, and a long length of pipe makes life easier...



3. Jack up both sides of the car (even if you're only replacing one bearing, it will relieve stress on the anti-sway bar, and make the job easier) and put it on jackstands.


4. Take out the two caliper guide bolts (14mm).



5. Set the caliper aside (it sits nicely on the anti-sway bar, or you can hang it from the spring with some heavy wire or coat hanger).


6. Remove the brake pads.



7. Remove the two caliper bracket-to-steering knuckle bolts (18mm) and slide the bracket off.



8. Remove the brake rotor.



9. Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut on top of the steering knuckle where it connects to the steering arm and put some penetrating oil on. Loosen the nut (18mm), and unscrew it almost to the end of the bolt, but leave it on.



10. Put on the handy tie rod end puller from Autozone (part # OEM 27022) on as shown. The screw part should come down squarely onto the bolt. Screw it down. This is impressive, and makes a loud pop. The tool with probably also go flying, along with your hands and wrench, so be prepared for skinned knuckles etc etc. Remove the nut, push the bolt down out of the steering knuckle, and push the steering arm off to the side.



11. Put a few marks on the strut/steering knuckle so you can assemble it later and your alignment won't be TOO far off.



12. Loosen, but do not remove, the two strut-to-steering knuckle bolts (21 and 18mm).


13. Remove the cotten pin from the castle nut below the axle/CV joint. Put some penetrating oil on it. Loosen the nut (18mm, you'll need a box-end wrench), but do not take it all the way off.



14. Place a crowbar/long piece of pipe under the frame, but over the sway bar and pry. Hopefully the control arm will pop off (that cool popping noise again). If it doesn't, read on. If it does, remove the castle nut all the way, remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts completely, wiggle the steering knuckle out, and skip to direction #19. If the halfshaft sticks, place a block of wood on the end of the bolt that sticks through the hub, and hit it with a hammer.



15. So, it didn't come off? Lucky you. This was my method. It seemed reasonable at the time. If you can find a better way, more power to you. Remove the control arm-to-frame bolt (15 and 18mm).



16. Remove the control arm-to-swaybar nut (24mm!).



17. Take off completely the strut-to-knuckle bolts. Then just kind of yank on the steering knuckle. You'll have to move stuff around, it'll come out. If the axle is jammed on, place a block of wood onto the bolt that sticks through the hub, and rap on it with a hammer. Success!


18. Apply the tie rod end puller/bolt torture tool to the bolt that holds the control arm on. Again, watch yourself. The tool will go flying, and your wrench too. Once it's free, remove the castle nut all the way.



19. Take the steering knuckle assembly with a new hub and bearing to the Saturn dealer or machine shop and have them press out the old components and press the new ones in. If your dealer is retarded like mine, they'll forget to take out the snap ring that holds the bearing in and break their press and piss you off. When it's done, it'll look like this. Shiny.



20. If you had to take the control arm off, attach the control arm to the knuckle, torquing the bolt to 55 ft-lb (having an assisstant helps). Replace the cotter pin. If you need to move the nut so the cotter pin fits through, always tighten, never loosen. Put all the bolts in and torque them down. The frame-to-control arm bolt is 92 ft-lb for the bolt, or 74 ft-lb for the nut (depends on which side you put the torque wrench). The swaybar-to-control arm nut is 106 ft-lb.

21. Put the axle back through the hub, and manuver the knuckle so it sits in between the two things on the strut. Putting the two bolts through helps keep things in place, and thread the halfshaft nut on a little.

22. Connect the steering arm. Torque the bolt to 33 ft-lb. Remember to replace the cotter pin. (NOTE: The cotter pin should be wrapped around the bolt and through the low spots in the castle nut, like the old one you took off. Pliers work best.)

23. (If you haven't already) put the castle nut onto the control arm bolt under the axle, and torque it to 55 ft-lb. Remember to use a new cotter pin.

24. Tighten the strut-to-knuckle bolts, making sure to line up your alignment marks. Torque them to 126 ft-lb for '96+ cars, or 148 for '91-'95 cars.

25. Tighten down the halfshaft nut so it's fairly snug (remember the washer).

26. Put the rotor back on, threading a lug nut onto the threads to hold the rotor against the hub. This will make it easier to put the caliper bracket on. The caliper bracket bolts get torqued to 81 ft-lb. Put the brake pads back in. Push the caliper back down over the brake pads. Put the caliper guide pins back in (thicker pin goes in the upper hole). Make sure to grease them (white lithium grease works well). Torque them to 27 ft-lb.



27. Put the wheel back on and snug up the lug nuts. Take the car off of the jackstands. Torque the halfshaft nut to 145 ft-lb. Then torque the wheel lug nuts to 103 ft-lb.

28. Before driving the car, press the brake pedal a few times to bring the pads into contact with the rotors again, otherwise you'll get quite a scare the first time you hit the brakes and the pedal goes to the floor!

29. Enjoy your new hubs/bearings. If they were seriously screwed up, you'll notice a significant reduction in road noise, especially when turning.

...
'00 SL2m- DD, 186K miles
'05 Honda CR-V- wife's DD and my upright bass hauler
'84 Honda CB650SC Nighthawk- toy

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Old 08-26-2007, 07:09 AM   #18
skybolt58
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Default Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)

I learned in tech school if you do not have a press, just get the old bearing off/out the best way you can, ie. BFH.... and freeze the new bearing for about a day, and but ie the hub inthe oven at 400 degrees for about 25 min. and the bearing will slide right in. I have done this on wheel bearing , and rear end bearings, works like a charm.

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Old 09-30-2007, 11:23 AM   #19
nivlem7
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Default Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)

Anyone ever do this and remove the old bearings and press in the new ones themselves? I have a press available, but I'm not sure how involved the process is. Can someone explain more about the hub/bearing assembly?

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Old 04-15-2008, 01:46 AM   #20
awake1563
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Default Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)

A couple pointers, for future reference...

The balljoint... get a cheap (like $10-15) Balljoint separator (pickle fork) and beat the hell out of that thing. If you're using a true "balljoint separator" I think the fork spread is 15/16 or something, it won't damage the balljoint hardware. but it will indeed thrash the dustboot, which is why you should also special order some replacement boots before you begin the operation. If you're not replacing your balljoint at the same time, I'm sure that dust boot could use a replacement anyways, and I'm sure you haven't greased that puppy in a while, so take advantage of having that boot off, clean out all the old nasty grease and pack it full of new grease. This was my preferred method, however, do not use this method if you want to reuse the dust boot on the balljoint. The pitman arm puller is slick, but taking the control arm out is a PITA.


If you're replacing the strut at the same time...
The upper strut bearing/mount... to keep all those nice pigeon poppers where they're supposed to be, once you get the spring compressed enough barely enough to take tension off the rod, undo the nut, then with the assembly upright, use a flathead screwdriver between the rubber upper spring "seat" and the spring to gently pry the to apart, then lift the whole bearing assembly off, supporting it from underneath, by that rubber spring seat. When/if you accidentally separate the rubber seat from the upper mount w/ the studs on it, be prepared for the 40 or 50 some odd bb's, it is preferablle to do this in a more controlled setting... clean and repack 'em, unless there's a bunch of rust on the races or the bearings of course.

PRESSING THE STEERING KNUCKLE / HUB / WHEEL BEARING !!!!

Make sure you remove the retaining ring before pressing the old bearing out.

MAKE SURE YOU PRESS THE BEARING INTO THE KNUCKLE FIRST!!!!
then press the hub into the bearing. I/we made the mistake of pressing the bearings onto the hubs first D'OH! and the bearings ended up getting thrashed when we realized we had to take them off to press them into the knuckle first. Even if they hadn't gotten visibly thrashed, I'm not sure you'd want to "re-press" a bearing anyways. Luckily not a terribly costly mistake, but potentially time consuming if you don't have extra bearings nearby.

A note on the freezing / heating method. To do this you would first have to get the old bearing and hub out of the steering knuckle. PITA without a press and machinist's tools, although maybe do-able with a vice and the right dies of course. After that, clean the knuckle before sticking it in the oven or heating it with a torch (i have not done this... you'll have to figure out how hot is hot enough) take the bearing, which you put in the freezer last night at the lowest setting, and hopefully it'll slide right in. I have seen this method work in other situations, no guarantees though! just give it a nudge with the vice maybe? The part that I'd be hesitant about though is this... now you have to heat the knuckle AND BEARING up to expand it, to slide in the frozen hub. I have no idea how much heat would be needed to make this work, and whether or not it would damage the bearing seals and internals yadda yadda, and think it's probably best just to have it pressed.

so theres my .02 cents. Long story short just press them.

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