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Old 06-16-2004, 07:58 PM   #1
jviper777
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Question Ball joint?

I'm on the left front tire. I have the tire rod off but I cannot seem to get the ball joint seperated. I followed the Chilton manual but without the part to seperate I am stuck. It says to use the tool to seperate it and then using a pry bar across a rod, keeping it down, and pull up on the axle you can get it the rest of the way.

Any help. I can't get it to budge.

Thanks.,

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Old 06-16-2004, 08:59 PM   #2
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Remove the cotter pin and nut from the ball joint stud
Place a LONG (3 FEET or so) pry bar UNDER the engine cradle and OVER the lower control arm so you can pry DOWN on the CONTROL ARM.
While pushing/prying DOWN, HARD! on the control arm, rap the part BELOW where the ball joint NUT was (where the ball joint stud goes through) with a METAL hammer. IF you pry down hard enough, and hit it hard enough, it will suddenly pop right out of the knuckle above it (The control arm will suddenly move DOWN and away from the knuckle above it, taking the ball joint with it)

DO NOT hammer on the threaded ball joint stud!

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Old 06-16-2004, 09:05 PM   #3
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i usually just pound on the ear of the steering knucke with a hammer until the tie rod end is loose. but heed wolfmans warning, do not hit the threaded part of the tie rod end.

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Old 06-16-2004, 09:37 PM   #4
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Ditto^

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Old 06-17-2004, 04:10 PM   #5
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I don't know how you can even pound on the ball joint stud. There's no clearance. Now the tie rod end has plenty of hammer swingin' room.

Old ball joints that you don't care about can be popped out with a "pickle fork" and hammer. This tears the rubber seal sometimes.

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Old 06-17-2004, 08:11 PM   #6
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or just use a picklefork and seperate the the ball joint from the spindle and do not risk hitting something that you are not supposed to!

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Old 06-17-2004, 08:30 PM   #7
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if you use a pickle fork, you will destroy the rubber boot on the tie rod end, the tie rod end will have to be replaced. not recommended, unless you like throwing money away.

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Old 06-17-2004, 10:33 PM   #8
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if you use a pickle fork, you will destroy the rubber boot on the tie rod end

he said he already had the tie rod off i was talking about the ball joint!

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Old 06-17-2004, 11:02 PM   #9
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The ball koint likewise has a rubber boot. DO NOT use a pickle fork if the balljoint is to be reused. Follow the directions I gave, it will work...

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Old 06-17-2004, 11:17 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by wolfman
Remove the cotter pin and nut from the ball joint stud
Place a LONG (3 FEET or so) pry bar UNDER the engine cradle and OVER the lower control arm so you can pry DOWN on the CONTROL ARM.
While pushing/prying DOWN, HARD! on the control arm, rap the part BELOW where the ball joint NUT was (where the ball joint stud goes through) with a METAL hammer. IF you pry down hard enough, and hit it hard enough, it will suddenly pop right out of the knuckle above it (The control arm will suddenly move DOWN and away from the knuckle above it, taking the ball joint with it)

DO NOT hammer on the threaded ball joint stud!


I usually leave the nut on, but loose. This does 2 things, protects the threads from errant hammer blows and when it does come loose, it keeps the lower arm under control.

A mechanic friend of mine uses 2 hammers. He places the head of a small sledge against 1 side of the casting and smacks the other side with another small sledge.

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Old 06-18-2004, 08:52 AM   #11
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Quote:
Fm ElJefino
Old ball joints that you don't care about can be popped out with a "pickle fork" and hammer. This tears the rubber seal sometimes.
This is the very reason I'm having to change mine, for the drivers side unit was torn, then the tech used the pickle fork in removing it, when working on my transmission a couple of months ago.

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Old 06-20-2004, 09:38 PM   #12
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The ball koint likewise has a rubber boot. DO NOT use a pickle fork if the balljoint is to be reused. Follow the directions I gave, it will work...


...

the reason for the job was to replacement of the BALL JOINT.

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Old 06-20-2004, 09:44 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by LATEMODELRACING
The ball koint likewise has a rubber boot. DO NOT use a pickle fork if the balljoint is to be reused. Follow the directions I gave, it will work...


...

the reason for the job was to replacement of the BALL JOINT.
Not to get into a pi**ing contest here, but the original poster never said he was replacing the balljoint, he just needed help/instructions on how to sperate it from the knuckle...re-read the original post.

...
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Old 06-20-2004, 10:06 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by LATEMODELRACING
The ball koint likewise has a rubber boot. DO NOT use a pickle fork if the balljoint is to be reused. Follow the directions I gave, it will work...


...

the reason for the job was to replacement of the BALL JOINT.
Please get a better grasp of the English language, including vocabulary, grammar, punctuation and sentence structure before posting critiques of others' responses. The only thing being shown off is ignorance when one reads in things that aren't written, and writes in a basically unintelligible stream of words and attempts at words.

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Old 06-20-2004, 11:41 PM   #15
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i dont even think that you can replace the ball joint anyway, you would have to replace th lower control arm, right?

regardless, pickle forks are hacker tools.

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Old 06-21-2004, 05:21 AM   #16
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Correct, the ball joint is not separately serviceable; the whole LCA must be replaced.

I take exception to your sweeping comment. I used a PF when my objective was to replace the LCA. Why not use the easiest, fastest method in those circumstances?

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Old 06-21-2004, 07:56 AM   #17
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I most often use a 3 jaw puller, grab the jaws to the knuckle, and press the screw part against the threaded part of the balljoint. no hammering, no prying, no sweat, and no chance at damage. It's so easy! I use the same method for tie rods too. Works like a charm, but it takes some getting used to to get all three jaws to hold on.

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Old 06-21-2004, 02:41 PM   #18
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Here's how I remove it. Do not hit the threads! Do not damage any boots!!

Back the nut off (not completely off). Use a small breaker bar (straight edge end) and position it between the top of the nut and the axle metal housing above the nut. A little downward force will break it loose. I then follow wolfman's instructions. Use a long bar above the LCA and under the engine cradle. Stand on the bar and move the knuckle out of the way. Voila!!

Whats a pickle fork????

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Old 06-21-2004, 06:35 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbarbulo
I most often use a 3 jaw puller, grab the jaws to the knuckle, and press the screw part against the threaded part of the balljoint. no hammering, no prying, no sweat, and no chance at damage. It's so easy! I use the same method for tie rods too. Works like a charm, but it takes some getting used to to get all three jaws to hold on.
Just gotts to ask...how are you managing to get that tool in there with the installed axle shaft in the way?

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Old 06-21-2004, 09:00 PM   #20
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Just what I was wondering.^^^

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