bleeding clutch

[92sl24ya]

i was wondering if any one knew how to bleed a clutch. i just put in a new slave cyclinder. the new one dont have the bleed valve on it. so how can i still bleed the slave?

[auxmike]

If it's a genuine Saturn part,smart move.You don't need to bleed it,it comes full and prebled.Best not to mess with it.
There's really no way to bleed it anyway...

[Saturn-Eh!]

older saturn clutch actuators had a set screw that could be used to bleed, but to be successful, the actuator had to be out of the car, with the slave elevated. newer Saturns omit the set screw.

That being said, if you "replaced the slave cylinder" which is not available as a separate part for Saturn s-series, then maybe your talking about a non-Saturn? if so, bleed like brakes - pedal down, open bleeder, close bleeder, pedal up, repeat. unitl no more air comes out of the bleeder.

[gm7]

a question to Saturn-eh please....have a '01 SC2 5 speed and am going through all the fluids and will be changing brake fluid shortly. Have read comments in the archives about later model 5 speed Saturn clutch master cylinder fluid systems being "sealed".
What I don't get is next to my brake master cylinder there is a very small reservoir with a removeable black cap that appears to be for the brake master cylinder. This seems to bely the "sealed" comments I have read. Can you shed some light please. I have read that the clutch cylinder on an '01 car can not be bled....is this correct? If so, I guess I should not baste out the fluid in the small brake reservoir and replenish for fear of introducing air if no bleeder screw...is this correct?
Thanks for any advice,
George

[gm7]

darn...in my last comment, I meant to say...I guess I should not baste out the fluid in the small "clutch" reservoir next to the brake master cylinder due to no clutch bleeding capability.
Thanks for any comments,
George

[wolfman]

He can, and so can I. "Sealed" as in incapable of being bled. You can remove the resevoir cover to add or check the fluid level. The clutch hydraulic system of your 01' (if still the OEM unit) CANNOT be bled. Of note, there is really no reason to replace the clutch hydraulic fluid unless it has been contaninated (as by a flood or other such "natural disaster"

[gm7]

that makes a bit more sense. There is however a technical reason to replace Dot 3 fluid in the clutch and or brake master cylinder over time independent of what you refer to as a natural disaster Both fluids are hydroscopic, that is they absorb water over time from the atmosphere not only changing the boiling point in the case of the braking system when doing a lot of work in high temperatures thereby contributing to possible brake fade or brake line fluid compressibility, but also as you know water content speeds corrosion of internal parts such as caliper bores, pistons, slave cylinders etc.
Why I asked...sounds as though relative to the clutch cylinder at least...treat it as sealed and if it degrades, simply replace the whole assembly since no bleeding capability.
Thanks,
George

[wolfman]

Sounds like you have it figured out. I have been critized for pointing this out in the past, but the recent paranoia (for lack of a better term) regarding the hydroscopic properties of brake fluid amazes me to no end. Currently very few manufacturers have recommended brake fluid change intervals in their maintenance schedules. In those that do, generally recommend changes ONLY in cars equiped with ABS systems as these systems can contaminate the fluid with bits of seals/actuators unrelated to water in the system at all. While brake, as any fluid, will degrade SLOWLY over time, regular changes are neither necessary or required in most modern passenger cars with sealed brake systems unless the hydraulic system has been compromised by damage or repair. Changes with every pad or shoe change certainly are not. I have been ASE certified for over 15 years at this point, ALL my personal vehicles still have their OEM brake fluid in them, including my 97' SL2 with 84k on the clock and 4 wheel ABS.

[Saturn-Eh!]

I know I'm being anal, but the correct spelling is Hygroscopic with a "g" - "to imbibe or otherwise absorb moisture from the atmosphere"

That being said - whether brake fluid is hygroscopic or not is a moot point, as leaving the reservoir closed (don't remove the cap, check the fluid level through the bottle - thats why it's translucent. If the cap stays on - no moisture gets in. period.

Secondary mootness on the S-series clutch system - the cylinder bores and pistons are made of plastic, sooooo...... no corrosion even if moisture does manage to get in.

[wolfman]

Originally posted by Saturn-Eh!

Secondary mootness on the S-series clutch system - the cylinder bores and pistons are made of plastic, sooooo...... no corrosion even if moisture does manage to get in.

Excellent point. I had completely forgotten about that.

[gm7]

thanks for your comments Wolfman and Saturn-eh.
Great to have a couple of real car guys on the board.
I take some exception to the comment about not needing to change brake fluid over time. Will not waste the band width on anecdotal tales of contaminated brake fluid which can break down like any fluid by doing work and repeated thermal cycling accelerated by micro-ingression of contaminants other than through the reservoir cap etc...water molecules can actually wick through the plastic reservoir body. But do agree on the front that the old rule of thumb of changing brake fluid every couple of years is no longer the yardstick. And particularly a moot point with respect to the clutch hydraulic circuit which is essentially non-serviceable...being all plastic bores...lol.
Thanks again guys,
George