2001 Saturn L300 (L81/3.0L V6) - Lower Intake Manifold Gasket/Thermostat Replacement

[BrandonKastning]

Hey there everyone!

I have successfully removed the Lower Intake Manifold and Prepped the Removal & Replacement of my Thermostat w/ Thermostat Housing.

Tools Needed:

• Torque Wrench (Ratchet)
• E12 Torx Socket
• Ratchet Extenders and Adapters
• New Thermostat w/ Thermostat Housing
• Waterproof RTV
• Gasket Scraper
• New Lower Intake Manifold Gaskets
• Gasket Scraper Hooks (This helps to pull the gaskets out easy).
• Lucas White Lithium Grease
• Hand Held Portable Vacuum (Optional) -- Helped a lot; picked it up after learning from 2BaldGuys on YouTube regarding the L300 Thermostat video and Front Camshaft Gasket Replacement video.
• Anti-Seize Lubricant (For Bolts)
• 3M Automotive Masking Tape (For Covering Ports) -- Working well.
• Automotive Rags (For cleaning up the gasket areas and areas around the area you are working on).

Whats left?

• Clean the lower intake manifold
  
• Replace the lower intake manifold gaskets (Both sides)
  
• Removing the Thermostat for cleaning (which requires the Front Camshaft Guard/Mount to be removed; I started and will be opening a thread on this). This should allow me to release the Thermostat from the Front and also give me access to to remove the Front Camshaft Cover and replace the gasket in that one also before sealing it up nicely.

Attached Pictures is Gallery A:

Best Regards,

~ Brandon Kastning
~ TruthSword
WE THE PEOPLE ONLINE
http://wethepeopleonline.com
U.S. Const. Art. VI, Clause 2, 3 (September 17, 1787).

[BrandonKastning]

Gallery Part-B:

[BrandonKastning]

Gallery Part-C:

[BrandonKastning]

Gallery Part-D:

[BrandonKastning]

Gallery Part-E:

[BrandonKastning]

Today after removing the Front Camshaft Cover Guard/Mount; I decided to try and remove the Thermostat all the way (it is connected to a long shaft that connects to a coolant hose in the front). It's not easy to move back and forth; however when I applied pressure pulling on the hose towards me, while at the same time using a Gasket Scraper / Dominator Pry Bar to press up on Thermostat + Housing unit.

What I realized is when I spun the thermostat housing (rotational) while pulling on the hose that connects to the long shaft; it appeared to as if it was making it more possible to release the Thermostat + Housing from bondage).

Does anyone know what step is required to fulling release the Thermostat Housing (relieving pressure from the long shaft that connect -- somehow pulling the shaft since there is very little room to move the Thermostat forward). Extremely tight fit here.

If anyone has any suggestions; I would appreciate it! Thank you everyone!

Gallery 1/2 for today:


Best Regards,

~ Brandon Kastning
~ TruthSword

[BrandonKastning]

Gallery 2/2 for today:

[fdryer]

The t-stat elbow housing ends at the large end. The extension tube fits into the large end with two O-rings - a slip fit with O-rings providing a seal against coolant pressure. Bare aluminum corrodes from normal exposure and may bond the two tubes from corrosion. Spraying penetrating fluid and twisting the extension tube should break the bonds and loosen the the tubes for removal. Check your service manual for this.

I didn't use pb blaster when loosening the extension tube from t-stat housing. Beware, the extension tube is bolted to a bracket on the engine closest to the radiator. Forcing the extension tube without removing the bolt may result in breaking off the ear where the bolt fastens it to the bracket. The bolt must be removed to free the extension tube for removal from the t-stat housing. Replace the two O-rings and use soapy water to fit the extension tube back into the t-stat housing. Secure the extension tube with the single bolt.

[Rj 2000 LS2]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oaHGIioi02A

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1JGNmbNgyCc

[BrandonKastning]

fdryer,

Thank you for the break down on that. I have the two O-rings from the L81 gasket kit i'm sure. Oh, in fact; I do for certain. I remember putting them on that piece of paper and matching them.

I will try and locate the extension tube bolt which I was unaware of. I appreciate bringing this to my attention.

Also, good pic. Did you have to remove the coolant hose to pull the extension tube far enough to release the thermostat housing from the two O-rings + extension tube?

Thanks again!

Best Regards,

Brandon Kastning

Originally Posted by fdryer

The t-stat elbow housing ends at the large end. The extension tube fits into the large end with two O-rings - a slip fit with O-rings providing a seal against coolant pressure. Bare aluminum corrodes from normal exposure and may bond the two tubes from corrosion. Spraying penetrating fluid and twisting the extension tube should break the bonds and loosen the the tubes for removal. Check your service manual for this.

I didn't use pb blaster when loosening the extension tube from t-stat housing. Beware, the extension tube is bolted to a bracket on the engine closest to the radiator. Forcing the extension tube without removing the bolt may result in breaking off the ear where the bolt fastens it to the bracket. The bolt must be removed to free the extension tube for removal from the t-stat housing. Replace the two O-rings and use soapy water to fit the extension tube back into the t-stat housing. Secure the extension tube with the single bolt.

[Rj 2000 LS2]

Brandon, Answers to your questions are in the two videos above!

Disclaimer for anyone reading this thread:
https://www.permatex.com/products/ga.../?locale=en_us

DIRECTIONS:
1) For best results, clean and dry all surfaces with a residue-free solvent such as Permatex® Brake & Parts Cleaner.

2) Cut nozzle to desired bead size. Gaskets are best formed using a 1/16” to 1/4” bead.

3) Apply a continuous, even bead of silicone to one surface, surrounding all bolt holes. Assemble parts immediately while silicone is still wet.

4) Finger tighten until material begins to squeeze out around flange.

5) Allow to dry for one hour then retighten 1/4 to 1/2 turn.

6) Silicone will skin over in one hour and fully cure in 24 hours under normal conditions. Allow more time for cold or very dry conditions.

7) Clean uncured silicone from hands, tools and clothing with Fast Orange® Hand Cleaner.

NOTE: Not recommended for use on head gaskets or parts in contact with gasoline.

These directions are straight from the Permatex! Brandon, you have invented a new mythology to use RTV. I hope you know your engine will be puking oil much worse than before! Good job!

[fdryer]

Originally Posted by BrandonKastning

.... Did you have to remove the coolant hose to pull the extension tube far enough to release the thermostat housing from the two O-rings + extension tube?....

T-stat replacement was awhile ago. I don't recall exact procedures but logic tells me I would have drained coolant then removed that tight bended upper radiator hose from the extension tube before removing the bolt securing the front of the tube. The chances of breaking the mounting ear off occurs if the tube bolt is overlooked and attempting to remove the tube with bolt still secured in place. The relatively thin aluminum extension tube with a small mounting ear is delicate and easily snapped when removing the t-stat housing with tube still connected (leverage arm physics). Once the upper engine parts were removed so I could see the t-stat housing, reviewing service manual procedures repeatedly, I think I made sure access to the extension tube was clear before removing the bolt to allow both removed in one piece or twisting and loosening the extension tube or t-stat housing to disconnect them from each other. I can't remember if the two pieces came out as one assembly before separating them.

[BrandonKastning]

fdryer,

Okay, no worries. I now know what you are saying when referring to the "ear" that holds the bolt. Mine is slightly cracked; probably my fault sometime throughout this process. However it still will hold a bolt from the looks of things. So I am good in those regards.

Thank you for a good detailed answer!

Originally Posted by fdryer

T-stat replacement was awhile ago. I don't recall exact procedures but logic tells me I would have drained coolant then removed that tight bended upper radiator hose from the extension tube before removing the bolt securing the front of the tube. The chances of breaking the mounting ear off occurs if the tube bolt is overlooked and attempting to remove the tube with bolt still secured in place. The relatively thin aluminum extension tube with a small mounting ear is delicate and easily snapped when removing the t-stat housing with tube still connected (leverage arm physics). Once the upper engine parts were removed so I could see the t-stat housing, reviewing service manual procedures repeatedly, I think I made sure access to the extension tube was clear before removing the bolt to allow both removed in one piece or twisting and loosening the extension tube or t-stat housing to disconnect them from each other. I can't remember if the two pieces came out as one assembly before separating them.

[BrandonKastning]

Hey Everyone!

Today's progress so far.

I have successfully separated the thermostat + housing from the extension tube with the two O-Rings affixed to them.

I didn't need to use PB Blaster as an emergency option as mentioned by fdryer. (That's a plus!).

The recipe for me to separate the thermostat + housing from the extension tube was to use a Dominator Gasket Scraper + Dominator Pry Bar.

The Dominator Gasket Scraper (I wedged in between the "ear" fdryer mentions; well, more toward the left of it. However they seem built together.).

The Dominator Pry Bar (I used this to pry on the left of the left bolt hole and the right side.Swiveling left and right and alternating. I eventually felt a pop and it was released).

Note: I had to remove one of the E12 Bolts on the lower intake to free it to even get me this far.

How does one go about getting the thermostat + housing out of the "bay" (or the thermostat + housing's home).

There doesn't seem to be enough room to release it. Do I have to remove all the E12 bolts on the lower intake and remove that or is there a special positioning that will allow a release for cleaning and so I can reach the two extension tube O-Rings and then replace the new Thermostat?


Picture Gallery A:

Best Regards,

~ Brandon Kastning

[BrandonKastning]

Gallery Part-B:

[BrandonKastning]

Gallery Part-C:

[BrandonKastning]

Gallery Part-D:

[BrandonKastning]

Gallery Part-E:

[BrandonKastning]

An update: A neighbor man said something to me while I was doing something else on my car. Asked if I needed a hand; I said no; he insisted, when I said yes, I grabbed the thermostat and it came right out. We spent the morning chatting ever since.

I will do a cleaning next and replace the O-Rings on the extension tube. My concern is the placing the thermostat back in (since I had difficulties pulling it out) and wasn't "looking" or taking pictures of the thermostat when it came out; so I don't know the angle(s).

[fdryer]

Ask your neighbor. A helping hand works in mysterious ways when stuck with one point of view. There will always be someone smarter. The best part is the smarter person helps without imparting negative feelings.