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Old 08-30-2003, 03:22 AM   #1
wolfman
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Wrench S-Series Waterpump Replacement

Saturn “S” series waterpump replacement.

The Saturn “S” series SOHC and DOHC waterpump is located on the lower front passenger side of the engine below the AC compressor (if equipped) to change it you will need:
Set of metric sockets (6 point recommended) 6 in extension and a socket wrench
Set of metric combination (open and box end) wrenches
Pair of pliers or channel locks
Drain pan capable of holding 2 Gallons
Form a gasket “Ultra black RTV”
1 gallon of antifreeze (GREEN Propylene Glycol for 91’-95’, DEXCOOL for 96’ and UP*
Can of “Brake Clean” spray
Clean dry rags or paper towels
Scotch bright or “non stick scrubbing pad”
“Maybe” a razor blade.

 *Check the coolant reservoir cap for a sticker on 95’ and UP cars. GREEN sticker = Green coolant, PINK (or ORANGE) sticker = DEXCOOL.
NOTE: This CAN be done WITHOUT raising the front of the car, but WILL be easier if you do. (Remove inner splash shield if you raise the car for a “better look” and access, but again, not 100% necessary.) As always, DO NOT GET UNDER A CAR SUPPORTED BY A JACK ALONE! Directions are the same either way.
TO BE DONE ON A STONE COLD ENGINE ONLY!!!
Proceed as follows:
Position your drain pan under the radiator drain tap, it is located on the lower passenger side corner of the radiator on the engine side.

Open the drain tap on the radiator (there are a few different versions of this tap ALL are PLASTIC, most involve a half turn counterclockwise and a tug to open) some taps open right up with just your fingers, some will require the addition of a little pliers/channel lock work. BE CAREFULL not to damage the tap or radiator!

Remove the reservoir cap to make the coolant drain faster. When it’s down to a drip, reposition your drain pan under the water pump and remove the block drain plug located on the LOWER side of the waterpump’s housing in the BLOCK to drain the remaining coolant.

Loosen but DO NOT REMOVE the three bolts holding the waterpump pulley to the water pump BEFORE you remove the belt.

Release the tension on the belt tensioner by turning the bolt in it’s pulley’s center as though you were trying to TIGHTEN it, hold it there and remove the belt.

REMOVE the three bolts holding the pulley to the waterpump and remove the pulley

Remove the bolts securing the waterpump to the engine. USE A SIX POINT SOCKET for best results as they can be a challenge. MAKE SURE you get them all!

Remove the waterpump from the engine. If it sticks, and you are SURE you have removed ALL the bolts, whack the pump shaft with a rubber mallet or block of wood to knock it loose.

STUFF the cavity in the block with paper towels to COMPLETELY DRY it. Use your scotch brite pad, razor blade etc..to remove ALL traces of old sealer/gasket from the engine. Remove the rags, ensure that the sealing surface is COMPLETELY DRY and then spray it with Brake Clean to ENSURE it is ABSOLUTELY clean and grease free.

Put an even bead of gasket compound around the area of the new pump that contacts the gasket, set it aside. Place a similar bead of sealant around the ENGINE mounting surface the pump gasket will contact, then stick the gasket to the engine.

Place the pump CAREFULLY over the installed gasket (DON’T KNOCK THE GASKET OUT OF PLACE!) Install the pump bolts FINGER TIGHT all the way around.

Confirm that the gasket is still in place all the way around and then tighten the bolts, evenly, working from the center out, to 20 ft pounds. (DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!)

Reinstall the pulley on the waterpump and reinstall the belt. Retighten the pulley bolts after the belt is installed.

Replace the drain plug bolt in the bottom of the waterpump housing (torque spec 20 ft pds) Close the drain tap on the radiator.

SLOWLY add the ENTIRE GALLON of antifreeze to the reservoir tank checking for leaks at the pump and drain tap as you go, STOP if you spot a leak!. Refill the empty jug with clean water (distilled preferred but not 100% necessary) and add the water until the reservoir is full right up to the tippy top. LEAVE THE CAP OFF, and start the car, run engine for about 2 MINUTES. Top the reservoir up with WATER if needed to the “full cold” mark (the seam) PUT THE RESEVOIR CAP ON, restart the engine and run until the fan comes on, all the while checking for leaks.

NOTES: It is a good idea to flush the radiator PRIOR to removing the old pump since things are apart anyway.

The KEY to getting a LEAK FREE seal THE FIRST TIME, is to MAKE SURE the surfaces are SPOTLESSLY CLEAN, and that you DON"T knock the gasket out of place installing the pump.

If you wish you can replace the thermostat now as well (not required but why not..)

NEVER REMOVE OR REPLACE THE RESEVOIR CAP ON A HOT ENGINE!TO BE DONE ON A STONE COLD ENGINE ONLY!!!

...
Old Saturns never die, people KILL them, so check your damn oil!
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Last edited by wolfman; 08-30-2003 at 03:30 AM..

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Old 08-30-2003, 10:17 PM   #2
GRIFF
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Wolman ~ with my 98 engine put into the 95 car and 95 radiator which antifreeze should i use ??

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Old 08-30-2003, 11:27 PM   #3
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Default

FLUSH out the radiator and heater core with clean water, and then use Dexcool when the new engine is in. You can accomplish this by running the new engine until warm on STRAIGHT WATER with NO coolant at all, and then draining and refilling when cool with 50/50 mix of Dexcool and water.

...
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"Unthinking respect for authority is the greatest enemy of truth." Albert Einstein

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Old 12-10-2003, 11:59 PM   #4
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I have loosened the pulley, but can't get the thing out. Do I need to remove the uper moter mount and jack up the car? Any tricks? Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.

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Old 12-11-2003, 01:52 AM   #5
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the engine needs to be lifted, or the a/c compressor removed. Please post questions in tech-talk.

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Old 02-05-2005, 10:41 PM   #6
David 93 SL2m
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2004 VUE 2.2L
2007 ION-3 Sedan
Wrench More tips

The 3 bolts for the water pump pulley, the 6 bolts for the water pump, and the 1 bolt that lets us drain coolant from the engine block (near the underside of the thermostat) are all 10 mm.

While removing the 3 bolts for the water pump pulley, if the water pump pulley still turns with the serpentine belt installed then remove the serpentine belt and try using a strap wrench to hold the water pump pulley still while loosing the bolts. Others have had success using a screwdriver to somehow hold the water pump pulley still while doing this.

The 3 bolts for the water pump pulley are not the same exact size as the 6 bolts for the water pump. The two sets will look slightly different.

As the last of the 6 bolts for the water pump are removed and the water pump becomes loose, be prepared for about 1/2 cup of coolant to drip out.

If you choose to replace the thermostat while the coolant is out, there are 2 bolts holding the thermostat housing in place. Again they are 10 mm. It is easiest to remove the lower radiator hose before removing and replacing the thermostat. And again, be prepared for a little bit of coolant to drip out from the lower radiator hose and from the thermostat. The torque spec for the thermostat housing bolts is 22 ft. lbs.

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Old 06-29-2005, 11:03 AM   #7
irish56
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1999 SC1
Default Re: More tips

Quote:
Originally Posted by David 93 SL2m
While removing the 3 bolts for the water pump pulley, if the water pump pulley still turns with the serpentine belt installed then remove the serpentine belt and try using a strap wrench to hold the water pump pulley still while loosing the bolts. Others have had success using a screwdriver to somehow hold the water pump pulley still while doing this.
I was able to prevent the pulley from turning by removing the serpentine belt, then attaching a 10mm combination wrench to the top-front-most bolt, then wedging the other end of the wrench against the A/C pulley. Then I loosened the bottom-most bolt through the wheel well with a 10mm socket. Then turn the pulley 1/3 turn and repeat. This will keep you from chewing up the bolts by trying to hold them with a screwdriver.

When you loosen the last bolt, you'll be holding the pulley with a bolt you've already loosened, but don't worry - a 10mm combination wrench is half as long as a good ratchet, so the bottom bolt will break free before the top bolt tightens itself again.

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Old 09-15-2005, 02:05 PM   #8
agksoe
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Default Re: S-Series Waterpump Replacement

Is it OK to use a gasket sealant like a fast drying, hard setting, Permatex "Form a gasket sealant" in addition to the really thin stringy wiry rubber gasket that the pump originally comes with?

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Old 09-15-2005, 08:04 PM   #9
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Default Re: S-Series Waterpump Replacement

Yes. I used black RTV like Wolfman recommends in the procedure at the top of this thread. I don't think the gasket would have stayed where it was supposed to without the sealant. I found myself wondering how the assemblers at Spring Hill got the gasket to stay in place without sealant when they were building the car in the first place.

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Old 10-11-2005, 02:43 PM   #10
Revwillie
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1993 SC2
Default Re: S-Series Waterpump Replacement

I did my water pump on Saturday. Luckily, my friends let me use their garage all day. I had some trouble with the pulley bolts, but I found a decent solution. if you don't have an extra 10mm socket, autozone only charges 1.99 for one. It might be nice just to have the extra considering how many 10mm bolts there are under the hood.

From the wheel well, I placed one socket on one bolt head, rotated the pulley, placed a second socket on the second bolt head and rotated the pulley a little more. Then, I put a large screwdriver between the sockets and turned the third bolt head with a 10mm combo wrench so that the screwdriver's plastic handle wedged up against the engine mount

BTW, the cheap autozone thermostat comes with a whole new housing. I didn't have to use any special tool to replace the thermostat, just swapped the whole thing. I also replaced the uppper and lower radiator hoses. My ECTS was replaced in July, so I don't expect any cooling system parts to need service soon.

...
93 SC2 140,000mi

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Old 11-08-2005, 01:54 AM   #11
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Default Re: S-Series Waterpump Replacement

I have been trying to replace my water pump, but I cant get the three bolts holding the pump pulley to come off. I used the screwdriver method by jamming a long screwdriver in between two bolts while torqueing the 3rd with A LOT of torque, and just ended stripping things. I tried some PB Blaster on the back side of the bolts after removing the AC compressor and bracket, and tried again and walked away with a deep gash on my finger. Any suggestions? Can I take the pump off w/ the pulley still on somehow?

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Old 11-08-2005, 06:49 PM   #12
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Default Re: S-Series Waterpump Replacement

I'm pretty sure you'll have to loosen the top engine mount and jack the engine up a bit to get the pump+pulley out together. Good luck.

...
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Old 11-09-2005, 03:43 AM   #13
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Default Re: S-Series Waterpump Replacement

OK, good news.. I FINALLY got the pump off, but I had to do it w/ the pulley on. It was really really tight fit, but i finally got it off. Those bolts were really tight. After the pump/pulley came off, i had to secure the pump and use a 2.5 foot break to get those little bolts off. but the new one's in, and finger's all wrapped up nice. Just glad it's over.

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