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Old 11-16-2018, 07:22 PM   #1
Jonasan308
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1999 SC1
Default Axle replacement gone south

Attempting to replace the passenger side axle on my 99 SC1, but of course the tie rod end bolt began to just spin. Cut it off with a dremel and now the tie rod end wont budge. Also, seems like the replacement axle refuses to insert fully in. Not sure if its supposed to or not though. Any suggestions?

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Old 11-16-2018, 07:46 PM   #2
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Default Re: Axle replacement gone south

One problem at a time here. Is the tapered pin removed from the knuckle? or is it now stuck in the knuckle? Exactly what do you mean by "the tie rod end won't budge".

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Old 11-16-2018, 07:54 PM   #3
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Default Re: Axle replacement gone south

The tie rod end isnt attached to the knuckle. It is free and loose. But, it is still attached to the inner tie rod and cant get enough torque on it to get it loose. Ive PB blastered it for now and with no useable light, left it until i can get at it tomorrow.

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Old 11-16-2018, 09:17 PM   #4
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Default Re: Axle replacement gone south

Did you back off the jam nut before you removed the end from the knuckle?

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Old 11-16-2018, 09:20 PM   #5
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Default Re: Axle replacement gone south

I'd use a torch too.

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Old 11-16-2018, 09:21 PM   #6
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Default Re: Axle replacement gone south

Uhhhh. No. But theres enough screw shank left to where i can place it in the knuckle securely but its loose. I think i could just tie it up. I only have a 22 mm box wrench. No BIg hammer.

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Old 11-16-2018, 09:30 PM   #7
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Default Re: Axle replacement gone south


...
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Old 11-16-2018, 09:45 PM   #8
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Default Re: Axle replacement gone south

Someone else may have another idea, but I would place it back in the knuckle and clamp it securely with a c-clamp. One end of the clamp on the top of the outer tie rod with the other end on the bottom of the knuckle. Then back off the jam nut.

There is also a flat on the inner tie rod on which a wrench can be used to hold it while removing the end. If a lot of rust is involved, the torch mentioned may be required.

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Old 11-16-2018, 09:55 PM   #9
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Default Re: Axle replacement gone south

Heat the jamb nut up as hot as you can get it, dull red hot if possible, and let it sit overnight. Then whack it on 3-4 flats on the jamb nut with an 8-12 oz hammer, 1 whack per flat, no heavier hammer either. Once whacked hold the tie rod and back off the jamb nut. A shot of PB Blaster after it cools, say 2hrs after heating, will help with the loosening the next day. This is a process that can not be rushed.

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Old 11-16-2018, 10:21 PM   #10
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Default Re: Axle replacement gone south

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldNuc View Post
Heat the jamb nut up as hot as you can get it, dull red hot if possible, and let it sit overnight. Then whack it on 3-4 flats on the jamb nut with an 8-12 oz hammer, 1 whack per flat, no heavier hammer either. Once whacked hold the tie rod and back off the jamb nut. A shot of PB Blaster after it cools, say 2hrs after heating, will help with the loosening the next day. This is a process that can not be rushed.
Just wow! I don't know how some of you guys do it. It is good to not be located in the rust belt.

On that note, I recently ran across a magnetic induction system online. Interesting but too pricey. The only things that seem to get a little rusty in my cars are the fasteners on the exhaust manifold.

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Old 11-16-2018, 10:24 PM   #11
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Default Re: Axle replacement gone south

It wouldn't hurt any to post pictures of what you are fighting there. I'm still not certain which thread is seized.

I gotta ask... what is a "magnetic induction system"?

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Old 11-16-2018, 10:40 PM   #12
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Default Re: Axle replacement gone south

Quote:
Originally Posted by billr View Post
I gotta ask... what is a "magnetic induction system"?
Flame-free way to heat things. Safer when working in certain areas or where oil/fuel may be present.

https://www.amazon.com/Induction-Inn.../dp/B008XN9HO6

They come in various styles and some really expensive price points, but is something that may make sense for some who do a lot in the rust belt. They're probably used more by shops than individuals.

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Old 11-16-2018, 11:29 PM   #13
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Default Re: Axle replacement gone south

Good ole rust belt. Ill have to invest in a torch. We'll see what happens tomorrow. I believe i saw a bernzomatic there? Not bad in cost it seems.
Ill get a pic of it tomorrow after i crash and get some sleep. But the siezed bolt, is the outer tie rod end itself. There is a single bolt that connects the tie rod to the knuckle. When i turned the bolt out, just right near the end of its removal is where it stopped backing out and the shaft its on turned with it instead. I decided to cut it off using a dremel and that worked, but the outer tie rod end is "stuck" to the inner and will not spin off.

...
1999 Saturn SL1-129k at purchase(may 2016)-139k when wrecked(September 2016)

1999 Saturn SC1(CURSED)-156K at purchase(october 2016)-194k currently (Nov 2018)
Dodging potholes should be a sport

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Old 11-16-2018, 11:45 PM   #14
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Default Re: Axle replacement gone south

You mean like this?

...
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'99 SL2, 5SP bought new
Rebuilt at 204,067 September 2017
Engine, subframe, diff pin mod, brake lines, headliner, alternator, and so on!
'98 SC2, 5SP bought 2018

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Old 11-16-2018, 11:50 PM   #15
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Default Re: Axle replacement gone south

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheyne View Post
Flame-free way to heat things. Safer when working in certain areas or where oil/fuel may be present.

https://www.amazon.com/Induction-Inn.../dp/B008XN9HO6

They come in various styles and some really expensive price points, but is something that may make sense for some who do a lot in the rust belt. They're probably used more by shops than individuals.
Interesting gadget. Not cheap though. If you have tanks and regulators this with some gas hose adapters will do just as well: https://www.amazon.com/Torch-Jeweler...rds=tiny+torch Copper sheet for stray heat control/shielding when needed.

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Old 11-17-2018, 12:06 AM   #16
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Default Re: Axle replacement gone south

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldNuc View Post
Interesting gadget. Not cheap though. If you have tanks and regulators this with some gas hose adapters will do just as well: https://www.amazon.com/Torch-Jeweler...rds=tiny+torch Copper sheet for stray heat control/shielding when needed.
The one I linked was the best review/best price point combination that I found, searching mostly out of curiosity since I really don't have a need. I'd probably do something like it if I had to deal with the mess that some of you do.

I'm perhaps wired a little differently and a knock it out, less patient type of person. If I had run into the OP's problem, I probably would cut off the tie rod end also and R&R the inner tie rod at the same time. I say this while perhaps ignorantly assuming that the inner tie rod isn't rusted as much within the boot and because I wouldn't want to go through this again for the inner tie rod at a later time.

You guys must go through a lot of anti-seize.

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Old 11-17-2018, 12:08 AM   #17
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Default Re: Axle replacement gone south

This is what I have. Bought it when I was a teenager I think.
https://www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-T...M6L&ref=plSrch
Runs on propane or mapp gas.

Quote:
You guys must go through a lot of anti-seize.
I also still have the same can I bought when I was a teenager. Maybe a 20-something.

...
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'99 SL2, 5SP bought new
Rebuilt at 204,067 September 2017
Engine, subframe, diff pin mod, brake lines, headliner, alternator, and so on!
'98 SC2, 5SP bought 2018

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Old 11-17-2018, 12:23 AM   #18
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Default Re: Axle replacement gone south

Quote:
Originally Posted by Waiex191 View Post
You mean like this?
yep. Exactly like that.

...
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1999 Saturn SC1(CURSED)-156K at purchase(october 2016)-194k currently (Nov 2018)
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Old 11-17-2018, 12:28 AM   #19
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Default Re: Axle replacement gone south

That's not the one giving you trouble now, though, is it? My perception is the problem now is the thread on the end of the tie-rod, just above the pointing finger-tip in the photo.

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Old 11-17-2018, 08:52 AM   #20
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Default Re: Axle replacement gone south

If you can't separate the tie rod from the knuckle like the picture above, get one of these:
https://m.harborfreight.com/3-4-quar...tor-99849.html
You will still want to do some heat, PB blaster, and some whacking. I think I used my rivet gun. You can probably do without, but if you know someone who builds airplanes they may be able to help. If you need to unthread the tie rod end from the rod, mine took a lot of torque and two people. Note the two wrenches on the rod. Plus heat and PB blaster.

...
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Rebuilt at 204,067 September 2017
Engine, subframe, diff pin mod, brake lines, headliner, alternator, and so on!
'98 SC2, 5SP bought 2018

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