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Old 11-07-2018, 05:20 PM   #1
SlayZombi
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2001 SL
Default Successful ECTS Change!

Man, you guys weren't kidding when you said all of those nylon sensors crack. Mine that I just bought with only 72k miles STILL had a couple cracks with an excessively long one all down the side. Replaced it with an ACDelco brass one from RockAuto along with a new pigtail for replacing the sensor. The temp still hangs around the first tick on the gauge but I'll just chalk that up to lower outside temps and fresh DEXcool coolant.


Last edited by SlayZombi; 11-07-2018 at 05:27 PM..

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Old 11-07-2018, 05:43 PM   #2
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Default Re: Successful ECTS Change!

Connect a reader to display coolant temps to be sure. The faulty coolant sensor often causes an overheating condition - during warm weather, coolant temps will rise and when the faulty coolant sensor can't detect rising temps, overheating occurs as the pcm never turns on the cooling fan. The temperature gauge displays incorrect temps since the coolant sensor failed so gauge readings are displaying incorrect temps. Hotter coolant melts the rubber seals on t-stats so coolant temps run cooler after the replacement coolant sensor sends correct signals. A reader is one way to see actual coolant temps since the pcm drives the temperature gauge from the sensor. If you see less than 185F after a full engine warm-up, replace the t-stat. Another way to tell if the t-stat failed is to select hot from your heater. It should be very hot. Many find out in the middle of winter of t-stat failure when their heaters are luke warm due to a faulty t-stat caused by the coolant sensor failure.

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Old 11-07-2018, 09:28 PM   #3
trottida
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Default Re: Successful ECTS Change!

Quote:
Originally Posted by SlayZombi View Post
Man, you guys weren't kidding when you said all of those nylon sensors crack. Mine that I just bought with only 72k miles STILL had a couple cracks with an excessively long one all down the side. Replaced it with an ACDelco brass one from RockAuto along with a new pigtail for replacing the sensor. The temp still hangs around the first tick on the gauge but I'll just chalk that up to lower outside temps and fresh DEXcool coolant.

How did you do your wire connections? Should be soldered and shrink tubed to ensure a good signal to the PCM. Crimp connectors are a point of failure.

What condition is your thermostat in? A leaky thermostat will also cause low operating temperatures. Here's how to test it ...

Quote:
Here's how to check if your thermostat is leaking. Starting with a cold engine, start the engine and put your hand on the the lower radiator hose just after the thermostat. If that hose gets warm after a minute or so then your thermostat is leaking. The thermostat should stay closed until the coolant temperature reaches 188-195 degrees Celsius. It takes several minute of run time to reach this temperature.
Let us know what model year and if you're running a DOHC or SOHC. Put your model year and model into your profile and/or signature so it shows in every post.

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Last edited by trottida; 11-07-2018 at 09:35 PM..

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Old 11-07-2018, 09:29 PM   #4
RobertGary1
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Default Re: Successful ECTS Change!

Now you need to change the thermostat. Then your temp will be correct.

-Robert

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Old 11-09-2018, 11:28 PM   #5
SlayZombi
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Default Re: Successful ECTS Change!

Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertGary1 View Post
Now you need to change the thermostat. Then your temp will be correct.

-Robert
Will be working on that soon. Already have the part but I will change it whenever I have time.

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Old 11-09-2018, 11:31 PM   #6
SlayZombi
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2001 SL
Default Re: Successful ECTS Change!

[QUOTE=trottida;2285711]How did you do your wire connections? Should be soldered and shrink tubed to ensure a good signal to the PCM. Crimp connectors are a point of failure.

What condition is your thermostat in? A leaky thermostat will also cause low operating temperatures. Here's how to test it ...

I did solder on both wires and individually electrical taped them all the way down and finished by electrical taping both together and zip-tying to another set of wires next to the airbox area.

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