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Old 07-10-2018, 10:23 PM   #1
TGP Z-34 STe
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 13

1994 SL2
2005 ION-2 Sedan
Default Strut Coil, Bearing, Caliper, FE1-3

My 2005 Ion II brake pads are gone, to the point where they hit the rotor. I thought it would be a routine pads/rotor replacement.

My wife has been using my car for a month or so since her Ion II was having an issue shutting down randomly. She told me she noticed a loud noise coming from the front driver's side when she turned the wheel. When I took off the wheel, I saw that the strut coil is broken. I also found out that the bearing is bad. I suspect it was from when I hit a curb awhile ago. Both caliper's dust seals are cracked. Looks like it could easily cost $1K for parts.

I have been researching a little, and I think my Ion uses FE1 suspension (20mm sway bar).
Do FE1-3 use the same coil? If not, I can't find enough info on which trim will work for my car.

I woudln't mind changing the shocks to FE3 and sway bar to 23mm if I could find one from a Redline, if that will fit. Will it work?

I need new tires ASAP and I did find wheels from an Ion 3 (16" rims). Would like to have better handling. Is this all worth the hassle?

Another thing, the price of bearings (with ABS) ranges from $40-$250! Can't believe how expensive they have become. I don't want to spend money unnecessarily. Any recommendation for a bearing that will last another 200k miles or so? My car is only at 136k and I am hopeful to put another 200k on it.

Any recommendations for calipers too?

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Old 07-11-2018, 02:05 AM   #2
KNGRK9
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Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 66

1999 SL2
Default Re: Strut Coil, Bearing, Caliper, FE1-3

Quote:
Originally Posted by TGP Z-34 STe View Post
My 2005 Ion II brake pads are gone, to the point where they hit the rotor. I thought it would be a routine pads/rotor replacement.

My wife has been using my car for a month or so since her Ion II was having an issue shutting down randomly. She told me she noticed a loud noise coming from the front driver's side when she turned the wheel. When I took off the wheel, I saw that the strut coil is broken. I also found out that the bearing is bad. I suspect it was from when I hit a curb awhile ago. Both caliper's dust seals are cracked. Looks like it could easily cost $1K for parts.

I have been researching a little, and I think my Ion uses FE1 suspension (20mm sway bar).
Do FE1-3 use the same coil? If not, I can't find enough info on which trim will work for my car.

I woudln't mind changing the shocks to FE3 and sway bar to 23mm if I could find one from a Redline, if that will fit. Will it work?

I need new tires ASAP and I did find wheels from an Ion 3 (16" rims). Would like to have better handling. Is this all worth the hassle?

Another thing, the price of bearings (with ABS) ranges from $40-$250! Can't believe how expensive they have become. I don't want to spend money unnecessarily. Any recommendation for a bearing that will last another 200k miles or so? My car is only at 136k and I am hopeful to put another 200k on it.

Any recommendations for calipers too?
I bought some cheap calipers to give them a whirl and truthfully, the difference between low end and high end is really mostly price.

E.g. you can go spend 100 per caliper for AC DELCO or you can buy A1 Cardones that are coated for half the price.

What's most important is the pads and rotors more than anything else.

As for the random shutting down, does it chug before shutting off? Suddenly? What's she doing when it happens?

...
1999 SL2 HCE - 245k (wrecked)(rebuilding)
2004 Ion Redline - 108k

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Old 07-11-2018, 08:37 PM   #3
TGP Z-34 STe
Junior Member
TGP Z-34 STe is on a distinguished road
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 13

1994 SL2
2005 ION-2 Sedan
Default Re: Strut Coil, Bearing, Caliper, FE1-3

Quote:
Originally Posted by KNGRK9 View Post
I bought some cheap calipers to give them a whirl and truthfully, the difference between low end and high end is really mostly price.

E.g. you can go spend 100 per caliper for AC DELCO or you can buy A1 Cardones that are coated for half the price.

What's most important is the pads and rotors more than anything else.

As for the random shutting down, does it chug before shutting off? Suddenly? What's she doing when it happens?
I see about calipers.

What do you recommend for rotors and brakes?

I would like to get a rotor that can take high speed and braking hard without becoming hot. Do I need to find a drilled/slotted rotor? I would like to get something that will not rust quickly since I live in Minnesota.

For my wife's car, it would suddenly lose power and die out of the blue. No sputtering or chugging before. Wouldn't matter if it was parked and in neutral or going 60mph down the freeway, but it would happen more often in hot weather. It didn't feel like it was going into limp mode or still driving with low power. I would have to pull over and wait between 30 seconds-5 mins and it would start right up again.

Is there more info under the code "P0601"? Seems like it was a bad ECM. I replaced it and it has been running fine for the last 100 miles. But there is a new problem now, it is idling high (1600-1800) and up to 2500 RPMs between shifting gears.

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Old 07-13-2018, 08:53 AM   #4
KNGRK9
Member
KNGRK9 has a spectacular aura aboutKNGRK9 has a spectacular aura aboutKNGRK9 has a spectacular aura about
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 66

1999 SL2
Default Re: Strut Coil, Bearing, Caliper, FE1-3

Quote:
Originally Posted by TGP Z-34 STe View Post
I see about calipers.

What do you recommend for rotors and brakes?

I would like to get a rotor that can take high speed and braking hard without becoming hot. Do I need to find a drilled/slotted rotor? I would like to get something that will not rust quickly since I live in Minnesota.

For my wife's car, it would suddenly lose power and die out of the blue. No sputtering or chugging before. Wouldn't matter if it was parked and in neutral or going 60mph down the freeway, but it would happen more often in hot weather. It didn't feel like it was going into limp mode or still driving with low power. I would have to pull over and wait between 30 seconds-5 mins and it would start right up again.

Is there more info under the code "P0601"? Seems like it was a bad ECM. I replaced it and it has been running fine for the last 100 miles. But there is a new problem now, it is idling high (1600-1800) and up to 2500 RPMs between shifting gears.
For rotors that are rust resistant, get coated ones. As for high speed and braking hard slotted and drilled are more for those who do a lot of race track style. I don't recommend those because they are prone to cracking. Even as a delivery driver I stick with standard coated and ceramic pads. Ceramics are not as heavy of braking power as metallic or semi metallic but they last.

As for the p0601 I'm not too positive, but if that is mixed with the sudden car shutoff I want to believe there is a potential voltage problem. Which, I rarely touch electrical in cars

...
1999 SL2 HCE - 245k (wrecked)(rebuilding)
2004 Ion Redline - 108k

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