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Old 06-23-2018, 11:31 AM   #1
00_SL1
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Default Going under the knife

First operation is rear wheel bearing hub assembly, to replace the bad ABS sensor.

Rear drum is stuck fast with corrosion. Soaking with penetrating oil, tapping with a hammer as I spin it slowly. 1 hour total to unstuck.


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Old 06-23-2018, 11:39 AM   #2
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Default Re: Going under the knife

Opinion:
Do you shoes need to be replaced, or still some life left in them?

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Old 06-23-2018, 12:10 PM   #3
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Default Re: Going under the knife

There was life left in them. But I'd replace them since they're likely contaminated by the penetrant from the appearance of the drum in the picture.

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Old 06-23-2018, 12:51 PM   #4
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2000 L-Series 2.2L Sedan
Default Re: Going under the knife

Yes, the shoes have plenty of material left on them. However, Cheyne makes a very valid point regarding contamination. I agree that it would be best to replace the brake shoes. It's all about safety for yourself and others.

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Old 06-23-2018, 04:22 PM   #5
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Default Re: Going under the knife

Thanks for the replies guys. I was leaning towards replacing shoes.
Next, is anti seize a no-no to apply before installing the new hub?
I have some wire brushing to do yet before I install the new hub.

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Old 06-23-2018, 05:21 PM   #6
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Default Re: Going under the knife

Well that was fun, lots of penetrant and hammer.

Only a little damage to the old sensor

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Old 06-23-2018, 06:08 PM   #7
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Default Re: Going under the knife

Your choice to apply anti seize on the hub bearing assembly before bolting it back on or not.

I use a very thin coat of anti seize on the wheel hub face where the brake drum fits, brushed on very lightly to leave the thinnest coat without worrying about this melting and contaminating brake shoes. I do this on my rear rotors designed with a top hat for the parking brake. The interior of the top hat serves as a brake drum for the park brake using baby brake shoes. Leaving a thin coat of anti seize on the wheel hub face resists rusting to allow easier rotor removal. I do the same for the front rotors, applying a very thin coating of anti seize on the wheel hub face after rust removal. NYC likes to lay down salt during the winter months - business deliveries must have clear roads otherwise food stores would run out and (gasp!) NYC might shut down. Anti seize seems to help prevent rusting where it coats surfaces that would normally rust as soon as moisture and salt gets on them.

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Old 06-26-2018, 03:06 PM   #8
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Default Re: Going under the knife

Wow, all that corrosion! Makes me glad I don't live in the Salt Belt! I get a little surface rust with all our rain here in the PNW, but nothing like that!!!

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Old 07-04-2018, 03:43 PM   #9
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Default Re: Going under the knife

Finally had time to get back to the garage today. New hub installed

All back together. First trip was to library this morning and no more ABS light, woo who!

Next up, clearing up two CEL codes.
P0410 and P0442

I could have a bad gas cap, it's cheap enough I'm going to be getting a new one. I would also like to get the EGR system cleaned up a bit.
So, what is the best way to get this exhaust manifold off, SL2 with AC?

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Old 07-04-2018, 05:27 PM   #10
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Default Re: Going under the knife

With a successful abs repair to extinguish the abs light and error code, the new errors might be worth starting a new thread rather them continuing here since they're separate from abs codes.

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Old 07-04-2018, 05:40 PM   #11
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Default Re: Going under the knife

Gotta take the belt off to take the A/C compressor off the engine (tie up on the radiator support) then take off the air pump stuff and now you can get to the exhaust manifold bolts.

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Old 07-04-2018, 06:08 PM   #12
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Default Re: Going under the knife

Quote:
Originally Posted by fdryer View Post
With a successful abs repair to extinguish the abs light and error code, the new errors might be worth starting a new thread rather them continuing here since they're separate from abs codes.
Well, I named this topic accordingly, was planning on having this topic cover my journey through all the little "operations" to get it running back in tip top shape. Easier for me to keep track of one Topic.

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Old 07-04-2018, 06:10 PM   #13
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Default Re: Going under the knife

Quote:
Originally Posted by fetchitfido View Post
Gotta take the belt off to take the A/C compressor off the engine (tie up on the radiator support) then take off the air pump stuff and now you can get to the exhaust manifold bolts.
Thanks, I was looking it over after lunch and was surmising that was what I was going to do. That AC is nice to have, but sure gets in the way.

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Old 07-04-2018, 07:08 PM   #14
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Default Re: Going under the knife

Not sure why access to the exhaust manifold is necessary. It may be easier to got thru some steps before removing the exhaust manifold - troubleshooting (presuming) P0410 - secondary air injection system; pumping air into the exhaust manifold to help heat up the catcon in the first minute or so of cold engine running. Search for threads with service manual info as well as suggestions from others to check and examine for faulty air pump, air pump solenoid, vacuum diverter valve, hoses, fuse, relay and the feed tube of pumped air into the exhaust manifold. The same for PO442 - small evap system leak.

Gas cap is the first suggestion but if that doesn't fix it, examining the fuel filler neck for damage against sealing. The next steps may require checking rubber hoses for the evap system and steel pipes for fuel and fuel venting. Severe corrosion on steel fuel pipe and/or steel fuel vent pipe from winter salt spray may eat into metal piping. The evap system seals the fuel and venting system to allow vacuum from the intake manifold to draw stored vapors from the charcoal canister. The fuel vent valve next to the fuel filler neck closes so fuel vapor pressure and vacuum are tested. Any leak during vapor pressure and vacuum testing triggers the error code.

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Old 07-08-2018, 10:51 AM   #15
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Default Re: Going under the knife

Quote:
Originally Posted by 00_SL1 View Post

Next up, clearing up two CEL codes.
P0410 and P0442

I could have a bad gas cap, it's cheap enough I'm going to be getting a new one.
Even cheaper is replacing the rubber gasket with a AS 568-326 O-ring (1 5/8 ID x 2 OD x 3/16 section. (Not an exact replacement but it's been working for several months on my son's 1999 and my 2000 after getting P0442 codes) The old rubber seal was cracked.

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Old 07-11-2018, 11:25 AM   #16
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Default Re: Going under the knife

Quote:
Originally Posted by 00_SL1 View Post
Thanks for the replies guys. I was leaning towards replacing shoes.
Next, is anti seize a no-no to apply before installing the new hub?
I have some wire brushing to do yet before I install the new hub.
your call. I only use anti-seize on fasteners that I frequently have to remove or on spark plugs. chances are you won't have to remove the new spindle again.

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Old 07-12-2018, 11:08 PM   #17
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Default Re: Going under the knife

Quote:
Originally Posted by saturnsctwo View Post
your call. I only use anti-seize on fasteners that I frequently have to remove or on spark plugs. chances are you won't have to remove the new spindle again.
Well I already have the hub re-installed, and I used a very thin coat of anti-seize. So far the ABS code has not returned, and I have driven the car to work three days now, so I'm crossing my fingers I have that resolved.
New gas cap was delivered today so tomorrow I will drive the car as much as I can.

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Old 07-23-2018, 11:39 PM   #18
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Default Re: Going under the knife

New gas cap installed and drove for a little over a week to work, and code P0442 is now gone, but P0410 still persists. Isn't that a little bass ackwards?

Anyways, car is going to be sitting for two weeks now at least. Shifting focus to the truck now, going to the track in two short weeks and want to make sure it will make the 3 hour trek there, and back.

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Old 07-24-2018, 12:22 AM   #19
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Default Re: Going under the knife

Quote:
Originally Posted by 00_SL1 View Post
New gas cap installed and drove for a little over a week to work, and code P0442 is now gone,
Fabulous! Simple fixes are GOOD!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by 00_SL1 View Post
but P0410 still persists. Isn't that a little bass ackwards?...
As best I'm able to understand these two "circuits" within the larger emission system the answer appears to be no. The secondary air injection system and the evaporative emissions are not in direct contact with one another. EVAP has to do with fuel evaporation contained within the fuel system while the secondary air injection relates to the exhaust system.

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Old 08-17-2018, 10:10 PM   #20
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Default Re: Going under the knife

Truck is parked in the garage for a while now, Back to the car!
Drove the car almost every day this week, and kept checking the codes, same one still P0410. Drive-ability hasn't been affected at all, nothing strange or out of the ordinary that I have noticed.

Is there a definitive step-by-step process for diagnosing this P0410 CEL?

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