|06-20-2018, 10:59 PM||#1|
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Jeffersonville, Indiana
instrument panel blower relay issue
Replaced the instrument panel fuse panel in June 2016 (photo attached) due to the blower relay getting hot, and melting the surrounding plastic. I'm experiencing the same issue again, although it's not melted quite as bad...yet. I have to jiggle the relay to get the blower fan to work.
I replaced the blower resistor in 2011, replaced the blower fan about 4 years ago, and put in a new blower switch this week. Car is stock with no mods to the electrical system. What could be causing this? What donor cars can I pick one out of? I'm on the hunt for a new panel. Current installed donor part is same year, engine and tranny. I've searched threads, but not finding much to go on.
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|06-21-2018, 12:19 AM||#2|
Join Date: Jan 2006
2003 L-Series 3.0L Sedan
Re: instrument panel blower relay issue
If the fuse panel melted in the exact same spot, did you examine the terminals underneath the fuse panel and wire(s) connecting to the terminal that burned? It may be a poor mechanical connection between wire, crimped terminal and spade lug(?) on the fuse panel. I'm not sure of actual connections between wires and fuse panels but in general, male and female spade lugs are used. More secure connections would be soldered wires to lug terminals compared to push on terminals.
Poor mechanical connections are one reason for electrical resistance heating up and melting plastic. If the terminals are severely discolored compared to nearby terminals, its a sign of loose mechanical connections contributing to high resistance, preventing good current flow. The easiest fix is if the terminal can be squeezed to make it more difficult to connect the male/female connection. A tighter fitting mechanical connection makes the metal to metal contacts better at conducting electricity with lower resistance to allow more current flow without heating up the connections. The alternative is replacing the burned and ruined terminal, crimping it on bare wires cut back to expose clean copper (not burned discolored wires) and soldering the terminal to wires.
Last edited by fdryer; 06-21-2018 at 12:27 AM..
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