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Old 04-24-2018, 09:23 PM   #1
sc2dave
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Default '96 sc2 sat for a few months, fuel pump not working.

Let car sit for a few months and I tried to start it,no luck. I did pour gas into intake manifold and it fired right up every time. I don't hear fuel pump when I turn key to the on position. I remember there was something on how to bypass fuel pump relay, or, add power directly to fuel pump. Can someone direct me to that ? Thanks!!!!!

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Old 04-24-2018, 11:48 PM   #2
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Default Re: '96 sc2 sat for a few months, fuel pump not working.

The pump relay is in the interior fuse panel located on the passenger side of the console. The panel cover has a diagram of the fuse and relay locations. Remove the relay and verify voltage at pin socket 30. Jumping pin sockets 30 and 87 bypasses the relay.

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Old 04-25-2018, 08:27 AM   #3
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Default Re: '96 sc2 sat for a few months, fuel pump not working.

AS I recall the relay is the same as the ac. You should be able to swap them for your test.

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Old 04-26-2018, 06:48 PM   #4
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Default Re: '96 sc2 sat for a few months, fuel pump not working.

Ok . I don't remember if I took out relay out a while back. I'll check tomorrow. THANKS!!

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Old 05-09-2018, 11:00 PM   #5
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Default Re: '96 sc2 sat for a few months, fuel pump not working.

Well, i jumped it and there was a super quick buzz. I might of read that there is a common ground in the rear where the fuel pump grounds to. Anyone know where? Also, can the pump just be stuck? What if I jumped the pump with 24 volts, only for a a quarter second or so, so that if it's stuck, it might loosen it. Thanks!

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Old 05-10-2018, 02:15 PM   #6
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Default Re: '96 sc2 sat for a few months, fuel pump not working.

There are two circuits that makes a fuel pump run - pump command and pump power circuit. When you bypassed the pump relay, jumpering 30 and 87, you verified the pump power circuit. All you did was supply 12v directly to the pump. Pump ground must be ok because the pump ran. What you bypassed is the pump command circuit where the pcm sends a pump command signal to operate the pump relay. If I'm not mistaken, on the console fuse panel is a probe hole to insert a voltage probe to measure the pump command signal. At ignition on time, this command signal, 12v, is only on for two seconds. With engine running, this signal is there as long as the engine runs. Try measuring this signal for 12v.

Since you can bypass the pump relay with a wire jumper to get the pump running, did you try starting up? This is perfectly fine for testing but not recommended to leave this jumper in place - the pump will run continuously with ignition off, killing the battery. With engine idling, you can measure for voltage at the probe hole.

If you need to search for pump ground, look around rear brake wiring for several black wires terminating into one 'splice' pack with a ring terminal connecting this splice pack to a chassis stud (ground). Some find one black wire among the bundle, corroded - pump ground wire.

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Old 05-10-2018, 02:44 PM   #7
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Default Re: '96 sc2 sat for a few months, fuel pump not working.

I haven't watched it, but it looks like richpin's fuel pump troubleshooting video might have what you need
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uo5OeHcvk-0

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Old 05-10-2018, 07:25 PM   #8
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Default Re: '96 sc2 sat for a few months, fuel pump not working.

No wonder i couldnt find the ground in the rear light area! After seeing the video, it said it's in front of the speaker area. Ill try that tomorrow, thanks for the video!!

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Old 05-11-2018, 10:01 AM   #9
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Default Re: '96 sc2 sat for a few months, fuel pump not working.

This is why most Saturnfans are also Richpin fans

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Old 05-31-2018, 05:24 PM   #10
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Default Re: '96 sc2 sat for a few months, fuel pump not working.

I haven't had time to do the video procedure yet, but i thought, can I also apply,VERY QUICKLY, 24 volts, to see if it'll unstick the pump?

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Old 05-31-2018, 06:18 PM   #11
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Default Re: '96 sc2 sat for a few months, fuel pump not working.

Do not hit it with24 volts unless you really want to drop the tank to replace it. Way too many volts.

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Old 05-31-2018, 06:20 PM   #12
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Default Re: '96 sc2 sat for a few months, fuel pump not working.

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldNuc View Post
Do not hit it with24 volts unless you really want to drop the tank to replace it. Way too many volts.
not to hit it a few seconds, just like tap the wires for a quarter second or less, just to see if it even makes a buzz.

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Old 05-31-2018, 06:39 PM   #13
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Default Re: '96 sc2 sat for a few months, fuel pump not working.

It will fry if it is stuck. Just watch the video, locate the ground wire in the connector and then take an ohmmeter on the lowest scale and measure the resistance between the ground pin and the car body, it should be less than 1 ohm. If it is then the problem is elsewhere. You could get away with 15 -16 volts but not 24.

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Old 05-31-2018, 06:42 PM   #14
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Default Re: '96 sc2 sat for a few months, fuel pump not working.

12 volts is all that's needed to jump start 12v motors. If you try 24 volts, you become the beta tester to find out whether your idea works or not. When supplying battery voltage into a fuel pump immersed in gasoline, there's a 99.99999% chance this will not result in fire or explosion. The 0.000001% of applying 24 volts may result in...........successfully exploding a bomb going off the instant 24 volts is applied. Personal best scenario may be the explosion killing you instantly. Worse case scenario is life altering burns with a long hospital stay, extremely painful skin grafts, amputations, and your name in the local (and possibly national) news.

In electrical terms, voltage moves current. Doubling voltage would force more current into a motor designed to run on 12 volts. One circuit that's tightly regulated is the battery/alternator charging system.

We all know car batteries ouput 12.5 volts. Alternators use electronically controlled voltage regulation to vary its output between 13.3v to 15 volts with almost every vehicle running around 14.5v. Any voltage above battery voltage means the higher voltage (from the alternator) is forcing amperage into the battery, recharging it. The higher the alternator voltage the higher the amperage to recharge the battery. The alternator also supplies electricity to meet vehicle electrical needs without a battery once the engine runs. The regulator in every alternator automatically adjusts for battery and car electrical needs. Most vehicle electrical and electronics are rated not to exceed 15 or 16 volts. Go higher and something will burn, cook, blow or melt. Your choice to become a beta tester or not and use suggestions given for conventional troubleshooting.

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Old 05-31-2018, 07:07 PM   #15
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Default Re: '96 sc2 sat for a few months, fuel pump not working.

Ok, I'll do the conventional methods. thanks

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Old 06-01-2018, 09:22 AM   #16
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Default Re: '96 sc2 sat for a few months, fuel pump not working.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fdryer View Post
.... Worse case scenario is life altering burns with a long hospital stay, extremely painful skin grafts, amputations, and your name in the local (and possibly national) news.
So . . . what you are saying is, go ahead do it but first make sure that someone is recording this for YouTube?

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Old 06-05-2018, 08:39 PM   #17
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Default Re: '96 sc2 sat for a few months, fuel pump not working.

The fuel tank inline connector is in the trunk. Left side (driver's side) behind the insulating carpet. There is no ground there but the gray wire is the feed to the fuel pump. Purple and Black/white go to the fuel level sensor. The connector is BLACK #12020398 and ...7. Very easy access to it!

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Old 06-05-2018, 10:33 PM   #18
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Default Re: '96 sc2 sat for a few months, fuel pump not working.

Ground to the tank looks to be circuit 550, and terminates to the left of the left rear speaker. No access thru the trunk. looks like the rear cloth covering the speakers needs to be removed and its on top of the rear metal shelf that the seats rest on.

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Old 06-30-2018, 12:25 AM   #19
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Default Re: '96 sc2 sat for a few months, fuel pump not working.

so now I loosened the single wire ground screw, moved it around quite a bit then tightened it down again. I turned the key to the on position and although there was some background noise, i did hear the relay click after a few seconds. I then cranked the engine and it seemed to want to start but it was super fast,like for a half second or less,then it didn't even do that after more cranking. I wonder if it still had some leftover fuel from when I was manually adding fuel into the intake that caused this. What else can cause the no start condition? It was drive-able then it didn't start after sitting a few weeks. Can it be the cam position sensor? I'll try to listen for the fuel pump when it's quiet. Can the fuel pump be changed without dropping the tank?Thanks to all.

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