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Old 11-07-2017, 09:22 AM   #1
adamjab
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2004 ION-2 Sedan
Default Clicking/squeaking from blower motor??

2004 Ion, 119,000 miles.

Pretty much since about 36k miles there has been this clicking/squealing noise from the center vents. I have ignored it this whole time, but now will be attempting to sell my vehicle and would like to diagnose/fix the problem.

The heat and air come out at adequate rates when I increase the speed. Also the clicking/squealing increases with the increase in fan speed. Is there something or somewhere I can check to see if it's just debris before I go cutting out the blower motor? Any other things to check?

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Old 11-08-2017, 11:56 AM   #2
VentureForth
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2006 ION-3 Sedan
Default Re: Clicking/squeaking from blower motor??

I had the same problem. I replaced the motor and didn't see anything in it. The new motor clicks, too, but not as bad. Take out your clean air filter (behind glove box) and see if that makes a difference.

NOTE: If you choose to replace your motor, be sure that the replacement includes a new flange AND SCREWS. You'll have to box-cut the old one out, but it's no big deal. Pretty thin (just don't cut through the main housing). Replace with new motor, included flange with included screws.

On another note, I've noticed since I replaced my motor that my switch is slowly deteriorating. First, position 4 died - that turns the motor completely off. Then 3 stopped working. Now I only have 1 & 2. When I'm on OFF, the fan still blows, but the compressor shuts off.

Wondering if I should a) buy a new switch panel or b) pull out the existing and try to clean it with electrical cleaner.

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Old 11-08-2017, 05:35 PM   #3
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Default Re: Clicking/squeaking from blower motor??

I just read this on another thread... (However, losing the highest speed, then the next, could also be a symptom of your 'resistor' going bad.)



Instructions on how to fix a 2003 Saturn blower control

Find a safe place on a clean bench so you don't loose any parts.

1. Leave the knob attached on the front of the panel so the shaft of the switch does not fall out. It is holding springs, a plastic detent, and a steel contact BB in place, on the inside of the switch. You shouldn't have to remove the shaft. If you do, remember the steel BB goes on the spring on the outside, or larger diameter circle, and the plastic detent goes on the spring on the inner diameter circle. The steel ball is an electrical connection, and the plastic piece is for the detent positions.

2. Remove the 2 screws holding the blower switch in from the back of the panel. Orient the panel face down, and gently pry the 3 tabs open holding the back of the switch to the main control housing.

3. Pull the back of the switch apart slowly, there is a spring and a copper contact plate that will pop up when the switch back is pulled off. Note the position of the coper plate and spring.

4. If the 2 bumps on the contact plate appear clean and have dielectric grease on it, just leave it unless you have some more grease and want to clean the copper contacts.

5. On the end of the main shaft that sticks up inside the switch housing, there are 2 tabs or keys on the end. It is a 2 level double key. If these are broken or worn down so they don't grab the round copper contact plate , YOUR SCREWD , and need another HVAC Fan Control assembly or a good shaft out of another bad unit.

6. If it is still good you should be able to reinstall the spring and copper plate. With the bumps of the plate facing out towards the inside of the back of the the switch cover, and the spring on the end of the shaft, place the copper plate onto the keyed shaft while compressing the spring (there's only one way it will go on the larger first level key).

That is the first level keying, push the plate a little further till it goes past the second level of keying and turn the plate 90 degrees (I think it was counter clockwise, if not turn it 90 degrees clockwise). Start releasing the copper plate and it will fall onto the smaller set of keys, and be held in place by the larger first level keys. There is only one way the second level keying will go, because of the different sizes of the two tabs.

7. The spring will be compressed, and the copper plate should feel firmly in place, and rotate with the knob on the front of the shaft. Hopefully it should stay put.

8. Now snap the switch back into place and install the 2 screws. It should be ready to test.

Hopefully this works for you. I just did this repair and have no idea how long it will stay in place. However if the keying was in good shape, and you don't go spinning the dial wildly with great force, hopefully it will last awhile.

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Old 11-08-2017, 07:58 PM   #4
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Default Re: Clicking/squeaking from blower motor??

Well, thank you! Unfortunately, I found this right after I tore apart my whole dash. I successfully removed the entire control unit and tore into it, and I accidentally broke the little knob that the shaft sits on. But it still seems to work. Anyway, I put it all back together after a thorough cleaning put it back in my car and it's acting the exact same way. So, I guess in my case it really is the resistor.

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Old 11-09-2017, 10:32 AM   #5
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Default Re: Clicking/squeaking from blower motor??

I ended up going to a salvage yard today where I was able to get a control head and resistor for $30 (vs $45 for the resistor and $167 for the head, new). I will install them when I get home.

Here are my concerns, and how they will relate back to the OP. I never had an issue with my fan speeds until AFTER I replaced the fan. I hope that the new fan isn't what is causing my problems. If these two replacements initially work (assuming they are not defective from the yard), and it goes out again in the future, I'll likely have to replace everything again, including the fan.

The electrical components on the unit I took out of my car were distressingly burnt - the connector had clear arcing in the terminals. Interestingly, the white plastic shroud showed visible signs of heat warping. Also, inside the cavity where the radio and HVAC Control Panel install was very greasy - almost like someone spilled or sprayed olive oil or something in the compartment. It's not something I can easily clean.

So tonight, I'll try the new resistor with the old head, then if it works, I'll keep it as a spare. I'll then put in the new head and patch it all back up.

A very weird problem to have.

One more interesting observation. The one that I pulled out of my car was an all black resistor made in Mexico. I've never seen those available online. The one that I pulled from the salvage yard was made in Japan and is white on one side and red on the other with three or four visible resistors sticking out like ticks.

Last edited by VentureForth; 11-09-2017 at 10:41 AM..

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