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Old 11-06-2017, 08:20 PM   #1
gen3thirdowner
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2000 SL2
Default Cv drivers install

Hey guys i have been lurking for cv shaft info and now i have taken my old shaft out and put in a new masterpro shaft but i cant seem to get the axle to seat like the original so maybe i just need to pound it in more?

been using a rubber mallet on the cv nut end and my hands to try and move it farther in...just dont want to replace the trans fluid and have the seal leak

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Old 11-06-2017, 10:29 PM   #2
Waiex191
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1999 SL2
Default Re: Cv drivers install

I had no luck using a mallet on the nut. I took a piece of scrap wood, put it against the thick cylinder thing on the shaft, and pounded on that. Popped right in.

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Old 11-06-2017, 11:48 PM   #3
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2001 SC2
Default Re: Cv drivers install

What's the point in hammering on the end of the axle with the nut? Both CV joints move father than you could hope to move the axle in the knuckle...

Take a short block of wood, set one end on the inner CV joint and hammer the other end. Don't need to go mountain gorilla high on speed on it, just a couple quick jabs should do it.

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Old 11-06-2017, 11:51 PM   #4
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Default Re: Cv drivers install

The steel circlip on the end of the cv shaft locks the shaft to the xmission output hub. The shaft has to be rammed in hard with a slide hammer or other means to allow the circlip to shrink and slide into the hub before expanding into its groove in the output hub, clicking into place to lock the cv shaft to xmission hub. Examine your cv shaft - without this circlip the shaft will never stay in place and will easily slip out and ruin your day. Once lock in place, its stays in cannot be removed unless a slide hammer is used to remove it. Check for richpin youtube videos on this.

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Old 11-07-2017, 12:08 AM   #5
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1998 SC2
Default Re: Cv drivers install

You can not hammer on these axle assemblies as you have done. You can set a block of hard wood against the groove on the inner CV that the boot is clamped into positioned so as to not cut the boot, that's all you can do. As that assembly has now been hammered on the axle stub end it may already be shot. The ring on the inner CV needs to be GENTLY squeezed around to work it down into its groove more than it is now. Needle nose pliers will work for this and do not mark it all up.

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Old 11-07-2017, 09:21 AM   #6
gen3thirdowner
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Default Re: Cv drivers install

Yeah doing that didn't really get it to move much now the boot is cracked any other ideas I am starting to think I should have just done the boot but everyone on here seems to think a torn boot should warrant this replacement

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Old 11-07-2017, 09:35 AM   #7
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Default Re: Cv drivers install

Must be doing it at too much of a sideways angle, needs to go straight back. If the boot is cracked it'll let contaminants in and ruin your nice new axle so if there's no hammering marks on it you could probably return it as a defective part, otherwise the boot should be replaced.

The other thing to try, which I hinted at / totally glossed over earlier is take the axle back out of the knuckle, push it towards the transmission to take up the slack in the joints and tap the end of the axle; again if it's at much of an angle it won't snap in easy.

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Old 11-07-2017, 06:42 PM   #8
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1998 SC2
Default Re: Cv drivers install

Just get that ring compressed by working around it squeezing it closed as you go with a pair of needle nose pliers. An over expanded ring is why it will not snap in easily. If you try banging it in by whacking the nut end do not be surprised when the 3 inner needle bearing rollers fail.

The FSM specifically states to not attempt to seat the axle by hammering on it.

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