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Old 11-05-2017, 01:32 AM   #1
T. Thudpucker
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Default DOHC Rebuild

After having done a couple of engine swaps, I am seriously contemplating rebuilding a DOHC that was pulled. Does Mr OldNuc have a list of posts of things to look for? Are there any paper books out there that are better than the Haynes/Chilton books?

I want to do this right. I plan on taking the head to a shop to be done, and taking the block to a shop to be honed and to verify that I order the correct rings. I'm working at the FLAPS so I can get the employee discount for things like bearings and gaskets.

First item to buy will be an engine stand...

...
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Old 11-05-2017, 09:21 AM   #2
Waiex191
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1999 SL2
Default Re: DOHC Rebuild

Welcome to the club! On the first page of my thread, OldNuc posted links to the CBoss and EHunter threads. Somewhere in the middle of my thread there is discussion of finding TTY rod bolts and ultimately a source. Score those early if you can. I didn't hone and reuse pistons. I had them bored oversize. It was all worth it. Car runs like new. No oil consumption, but we only have about 2000 miles since the rebuild. Don't forget to put the big o-rings in the timing cover!

My thread:
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=230898

I bought one of these engine stands for my airplane project. It was overkill for that but I had in mind using it for the Saturn also.
https://m.harborfreight.com/750-lb-c...and-61238.html
I made two mods to it. First was to buy a better quality front caster. Second I made a bushing on the part that spins so the locking holes line up.

...
Bryan Cotton
'99 SL2, owned since new
5 speed manual
Rebuilt at 204,067 September 2017
Engine, subframe, diff pin mod, brake lines, headliner, alternator, and so on!

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Old 11-05-2017, 09:43 AM   #3
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1998 SC2
Default Re: DOHC Rebuild

Info is in the links above. Pay attention to what goes wrong so as to not fall into the same trap. There is no need to be digging up TTY rod bolts unless you happen to be rebuilding a 99 or newer bottom end. And even then they are not absolutely necessary. Buy a good accurate torque wrench. Over or under torquing causes future problems. I believe the easy low cost solutions to this torque issue are covered in the links.

Verify free motion of all rotating and reciprocating assemblies while being assembled. If it moves put assembly lube on it. Permatex Ultra Slick works well.

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Old 11-05-2017, 10:42 AM   #4
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1999 SL2
Default Re: DOHC Rebuild

Quote:
There is no need to be digging up TTY rod bolts unless you happen to be rebuilding a 99 or newer bottom end.
Great info! I didn't realize that.

...
Bryan Cotton
'99 SL2, owned since new
5 speed manual
Rebuilt at 204,067 September 2017
Engine, subframe, diff pin mod, brake lines, headliner, alternator, and so on!

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Old 11-05-2017, 12:16 PM   #5
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1998 SC2
Default Re: DOHC Rebuild

The 98 and earlier rods have nuts and the bolts are a special configuration that stay in the rod. The same 33ft-lb of torque either on the recycled 99+ bolt or the 98- nut yields the same clamping load. The difference is the 98- rod bolt/nut has some elasticity while the 99+ does not.

I thought I mentioned this in your thread but maybe not as it has been a reoccurring topic of discussion specifically to recycling used head bolts.

Do not recycle head bolts unless you really know how to remove one after it snaps off. It is not a simple task either.

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Old 11-06-2017, 03:50 PM   #6
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1998 SL2
1997 SL2
Default Re: DOHC Rebuild

I'm glad I read random threads here, even when I have nothing to contribute. I learned something new today (at some point in my future, I may be rebuilding both a pre- and post- '99 engine)

...
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Old 11-06-2017, 10:46 PM   #7
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Default Re: DOHC Rebuild

The engine in question is a 2001.

Are these the TTY bolts you are referring to?
https://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.c.../21008005.html

Head bolts WILL NOT BE REUSED. I dont want to deal with broken bolts.

Thank you all! I'm in information gathering mode first, befire anything gets taken apart. The motor is in the back of my truck (under the truck canopy) so relatively protected. First rod cap bolts then a stand... the HF one is the one thats in the cards.

...
#1 1999 SL2, RIP
#2 1999 SL2, Operational
#3 1999 SL2 HCE, Operational
#4 2001 SL1, Operational
#5 2001 SL2 10th Anniversary, stored *NEXT*
#6 1997 SL2, Operational
1979 Dodge Adventurer 200

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Old 11-06-2017, 11:23 PM   #8
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1998 SC2
Default Re: DOHC Rebuild

Yes. The main bearing cap parts associated with the lower end reinforcing plate are also TTY and they are made of unobtainilum. You need an accurate torque wrench or one of these. https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-...ter-68283.html

Add to that an 1/4 drive in-lb torque wrench and a 3/8" drive torque wrench. The electronic module works with a1 /2 drive ratchet or breaker bar. A 24" breaker bar is a good thing have to torque the head bolts and axle nuts. Use new axle nuts and washers.
A 1/2 drive torque wrench that covers the 125 -175 ft-lb range is good to have for the 2 or 3 places you need it.

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Old 11-07-2017, 06:56 AM   #9
Waiex191
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1999 SL2
Default Re: DOHC Rebuild

That is where I got my bolts from. You will find the shipping is nearly as much as the bolts. But, worth it. Conrod bolts are sort of important.

...
Bryan Cotton
'99 SL2, owned since new
5 speed manual
Rebuilt at 204,067 September 2017
Engine, subframe, diff pin mod, brake lines, headliner, alternator, and so on!

REWARD EXCELLENCE!

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