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Old 10-18-2017, 07:57 PM   #21
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Default Re: A/C Liquid Line Replacement

Please post images; (1)meter setting on resistance, probes touching, displaying the lowest reading and then (2)with probes measuring the two pins on the clutch coil connector pins. 2 ohms seems about right and should work with 12v battery power applied.

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Old 10-18-2017, 08:25 PM   #22
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Default Re: A/C Liquid Line Replacement

Got it. I will tomorrow. Had to work this afternoon. So far hooking both compressors up to battery had no clutch operation.

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Old 10-19-2017, 06:07 AM   #23
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Default Re: A/C Liquid Line Replacement

No clutch operation when powered directly to battery? Something's not right. Here's a wiring diagram.
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File Type: jpg FIGURE (4 of 7) - L61(c).jpg (123.7 KB, 1 views)

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Old 10-19-2017, 08:43 AM   #24
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Default Re: A/C Liquid Line Replacement

From watching another YT video of clutch coil testing, BOTH coils on my compressors are blown. The tech was getting 05.2 ohms on his meter as I was getting 00.2 on the car and 00.0 on my spare. When he hooked it to the battery, the clutch engaged, both of mine didn't. Actually I only got a spark on the neg side jumper wire on the spare. I'm assuming I'm doing everything correct but i'll post photos anyway as I stated. I have a feeling I have 2 blown coils tho. The one I got the spare off of had 62,000 miles on it but that doesn't mean anything. Probably the cause of the refrig not being drawn in is a bad coil. That would make perfect sense.

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Old 10-19-2017, 10:05 AM   #25
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Default Re: A/C Liquid Line Replacement/Pictures Of Coil Resistance

It states page not found so I can't upload the photos of the tests.

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Old 10-19-2017, 10:12 AM   #26
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Default Re: A/C Liquid Line Replacement

From the video I saw stated above, the tech had 2 jumper wires to the compressor coil prongs to the battery as I did and the clutch engaged after the resistance test with the plug off. I'm just using a 10 dollar Menard's multimeter which should work fine. I can't find my Craftsman. I was looking at the diagram I found last night. What does the diagram have to do with direct power from the battery ? Using 2 jumper wires from the car battery should engage it, correct ? I'm just not understanding why a diagram would be needed to do this. I also tried by passing the relay which didn't do anything as well to force the compressor on as it shows that can be how to do it as well.

Last edited by Chaz9496; 10-19-2017 at 10:27 AM.. Reason: Added Comment

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Old 10-19-2017, 10:29 AM   #27
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Default Re: A/C Liquid Line Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaz9496 View Post
From the video I saw stated above, the tech had 2 jumper wires to the compressor coil prongs to the battery as I did and the clutch engaged after the resistance test with the plug off. I'm just using a 10 dollar Menard's multimeter which should work fine. I can't find my Craftsman. I was looking at the diagram I found last night. What does the diagram have to do with direct power from the battery ? Using 2 jumper wires from the car battery should engage it, correct ? I'm just not understanding why a diagram would be needed to do this. I also tried by passing the relay which didn't do anything as well to force the compressor on as it shows that can be how to do it as well.
I bypassed pins 30 & 87A BTW.

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Old 10-19-2017, 12:28 PM   #28
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Default Re: A/C Liquid Line Replacement

There are several ways to power the compressor on or off the car and you covered them all. What's not clear is your explanation of which compressors were powered by the tech. Did he test your compressors or his? Be specific as I don't assume anything. Remember, no one reading these posts are standing next to you to see what's going on.

Bypassing the relay with a jumper wire across relay socket terminals 30 and 87 sends 12v to the compressor immediately. One of the two terminals on the connector to the compressor should have 12v with the other terminal going to ground. 12v may be missing on the terminal connector, ground may be missing on the connection back to the engine or chassis. Applying battery power directly to the two compressor terminals should power the coil. Remember, there are a few amps powering the coil so all connections must be good to carry around 6 amps.

Please be aware the the compressor does not need to run during the initial refill of the first can of refrigerant. If you lose sight of this and insist on the compressor running to draw in refrigerant, you may be dealing with at least one problem, not knowing why initial refrigerant installation isn't entering an evacuated system. Powering the compressor is another problem.

I posted a wiring diagram for reference so you have a clear understanding of where power is applied.

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Old 10-19-2017, 03:34 PM   #29
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Default Re: A/C Liquid Line Replacement

Another thing. Why would my multimeter read .1 ohms at rest @ 20K and most others read OL (out of limits) ?" Shouldn't they all read the same with nothing being tested ? This is one reason I need to know if the multimeter is reading correct or I need a new one. 2: The tech on YouTube with a compressor he was showing how to test ohm resistance and how to power it up direct from a battery that the clutch coil was good and engaging. Hope this helps T.Y.

Last edited by Chaz9496; 10-19-2017 at 03:39 PM.. Reason: Added Comment

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Old 10-19-2017, 04:20 PM   #30
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Default Re: A/C Liquid Line Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaz9496 View Post
Another thing. Why would my multimeter read .1 ohms at rest @ 20K and most others read OL (out of limits) ?" Shouldn't they all read the same with nothing being tested ? This is one reason I need to know if the multimeter is reading correct or I need a new one. 2: The tech on YouTube with a compressor he was showing how to test ohm resistance and how to power it up direct from a battery that the clutch coil was good and engaging. Hope this helps T.Y.
Excuse me, it's 1. not .1. I checked and this is fine. Not all read OL. Never mind that question.

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Old 10-20-2017, 03:03 PM   #31
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Default Re: A/C Liquid Line Replacement

Sorry to say that I went back out to the yard today and took my multimeter out with me and tested many compressors and got the same reading as mine, 0.01. So all these clutches are bad then ? I tested 6 different models and a Saturn and all read the same as both my compressors, on the car and my spare in the garage. It doesn't show what YouTube techs show as explained above. There's showed 4.53 or 5. Either my meter is wrong or the clutches are good to begin with. With the meter probes touching I'm getting a reading. I still don't remember what tho. I thought it was 0.35 or something in that range.

Last edited by Chaz9496; 10-20-2017 at 03:05 PM.. Reason: corrected sentence

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Old 10-20-2017, 03:35 PM   #32
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Default Re: A/C Liquid Line Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaz9496 View Post
Sorry to say that I went back out to the yard today and took my multimeter out with me and tested many compressors and got the same reading as mine, 0.01. So all these clutches are bad then ? I tested 6 different models and a Saturn and all read the same as both my compressors, on the car and my spare in the garage. It doesn't show what YouTube techs show as explained above. Their's show 04.5. Either my meter is wrong, I'm wrong or the clutches are good to begin with. With the meter probes touching I'm getting a reading. I still don't remember what tho. I thought it was 0.35 or something in that range.
The ohm meter should be set on the lowest setting for this test, correct ? Which mine is 20. Or do it have it on the incorrect setting ? Some don't have any but an ohms symbol. I apologize if I stated 4.50 or something like that on the resistance test online. I had to watch the video again.

Last edited by Chaz9496; 10-20-2017 at 03:46 PM..

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Old 10-20-2017, 03:51 PM   #33
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Default Re: A/C Liquid Line Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by fdryer View Post
What's not clear is your explanation of which compressors were powered by the tech. Did he test your compressors or his? Be specific as I don't assume anything. Remember, no one reading these posts are standing next to you to see what's going on.
I apologize. The YouTube tech was showing how to perform clutch resistance in a video and power it by battery still on the car with wire unplugged. I assume you folks knew but I understand.

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Old 10-20-2017, 07:36 PM   #34
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Default Re: A/C Liquid Line Replacement

I just thought that all I have to do is run jumper wires from my Son's A/C compressor wires to my clutch and if it kicks on it's good. It took me all this time to figure that out. What a waste of time actually. I didn't need all that resistance BS after all.

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Old 10-20-2017, 07:38 PM   #35
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Default Re: A/C Liquid Line Replacement

I understand the youtube video explanation but not your personal descriptions of exactly what you did in testing compressors, on or off the car. If you can, just describe what you did in easy to digest sentences. Often when we make comments online, some tend to forget others reading these posts aren't there to see what was done so a briefly detailed description is needed to follow along.

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Old 10-21-2017, 04:33 PM   #36
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Default Re: A/C Liquid Line Replacement

Anyway, the clutch is good because I jumped it from my Son's car today and it does work so we know that's not the problem now. There's also a leak because I can hear it feeding in the refrig. Now I need to find that. Next I'm thinking about the A/C switch inside the car. The relay and fuse are good as well. Changed out the pressure switch with the old one just incase. Still got a problem somewhere it appears. I've traced all the wiring to the fuse box and no frays or breaks.

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Old 10-21-2017, 05:05 PM   #37
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Default Re: A/C Liquid Line Replacement

Remember, the AC pressure sensor will send a disable signal to the ECM if system pressure isn't above 36 psi. The ECM in turn will not send a control signal to the AC relay. The relay normally powers up and closes a set of electrical contacts. The contacts switch 12v power to the clutch coil. System pressure must be above 36 psi before the ECM allows the compressor to run. You cannot defeat this three wire sensor by bypassing it or shorting tell terminals. I don't recall the voltage but a range of voltage output from this sensor in proportion to pressures is compared with programmed voltages in the ECM to determine whether or not to allow compressor operation. You'd have to know what voltage is needed to bypass this sensor and on which wire. Do not try sending 12v. This sensor operates below 5v and sending 12v may over drive the ECM input circuit and damage the ECM.

With a leak, this should have been obvious during the evacuation phase when the vacuum pump was turned off and valves were still open........

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Old 10-21-2017, 09:29 PM   #38
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Default Re: A/C Liquid Line Replacement

The gauges were holding pressure @ 0 15 minutes after I evact'd the system. I have no idea how it got a leak since I did it. I'll have to look into it. You can hear it. Sounds like it's coming from somewhere around the compressor but I never disconnected the compressor lines replacing the new ones. There's no need to since there's two separate connections from the lines to the compressor.

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Old 10-21-2017, 09:45 PM   #39
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Default Re: A/C Liquid Line Replacement

The blue vacuum gauge should read -29.99in hg, below zero (0), negative pressure. The red pressure gauge should read below zero (0). ARe these two needle positions what you see when a complete evacuation is performed?
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Old 10-23-2017, 08:20 PM   #40
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Default Re: A/C Liquid Line Replacement

I found the problem, repair'r error. The high line to the compressor coupling was bound up on the low pressure line that crosses it and wasn't tight. It was leaking when filled, I could hear it enough that it would leak out as fast as it went in so the compressor couldn't run, so I loosened that fitting, pushed the coupling up so it sealed, evac'd the system again and recharged. The compressor comes on and now holds refrig. It was just a simple problem overlooked. It's working fine now, so far that is. Why the gauges still showed "0" after the first evac I have no idea. That should have been a large enough leak. I had the valves correct when I vacuumed it. Hope this makes sense.

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