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Old 07-02-2017, 04:08 PM   #161
Waiex191
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Default Re: 99 SL2 rebuild thread

I can see the bolt is now longer than its neighbor.

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Old 07-02-2017, 05:36 PM   #162
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Default Re: 99 SL2 rebuild thread

The 33ft-lb is OK as long as you know the torque wrench is accurate or has been used often enough with no noticeable issues. As they are used TTY bolts they no longer stretch, they snap off when over torqued. If it did not snap off then it is OK. The idea with the 30-31 is to get some margin for error induced by torque wrench inaccuracy and hand operation.

Generally speaking the industry torque wrench standard is 35% installed accuracy with a hand torque wrench of the nominal 4% rated accuracy and not bench checked at the desired set torque before use.


There are generic torque tables for bolts and you have to know the grade to use them. This one looks to be comprehensible: http://electronicfilters.tpub.com/TM...37-13P_105.htm

Dry means wiped off with the standard lint free rag.

As you are getting close to needing this I will repost it.
Clean the head bolt holes with a fiber brush and blow out with compressed air. Clean the head and block mating surfaces with acetone. Set your new gasket on the block in the correct position so the oil port is not blocked. Carefully set the head on the gasket and do not scratch the head or block. If the bolts seem to be oily when you pull them out of the box wipe them off with a clean dry rag and don't leave any lint on them. Now screw all the NEW head bolts in by hand and torque them in order and stages to the 48ft-lb final value.

DOHC head torquing procedure

Initial dry bolt torque in sequence to 48ft-lb following the torquing pattern in stages to 20ft-lb, 30ft-lb, and final 48ft-lb. This establishes the proper clamp load on the gasket.

This is followed by removal in about 1/4 turn in sequence until loose.

Bolts washers, threads and bolt heads are oiled with clean engine oil and reinstalled finger tight.

Torqued in sequence to 22 ft-lb then 37ft-lb and then additional 90 degree turn.

The 90 degrees is important so do not guess at the 90 degrees. You can eyeball it and use a 1/2 drive breaker bar and make the 90 degree turn in a single smooth motion.

If this is not followed the new gasket will end up leaking.

Torquing sequence
intake side
8-4-1-5-9
7-3-2-6-10
exhaust side

That 90 degree turn will require assistance to hold the engine stand or planning ahead as this 90 degrees is a smooth continuous sweep or you are in trouble. You will need a 24" breaker bar or appropriate cheater.

The head bolts are also TTY and you will feel an increasing force requirement as you turn the 90 degrees and then it drops followed by a steep increase. What has happened is you torqued the bolt to 75-80% of the yield load @37ft-lb and then continued to exceed the 100% yield load point to the beginning of plastic deformation, the clamp load has now begin to decrease and once you start up the curve to the fracture point the clamp load is rapidly increasing and the bold is no longer elastic.

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Old 07-02-2017, 08:14 PM   #163
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Default Re: 99 SL2 rebuild thread

I did a quick calibration of my torque wrench. I measured and weighed water in 3 jugs, which would nominally be 8 lbs/jug. I weighed closer to 8.5 each on my gram scale. My lever arm was close to 19.5", and I calculated the torque to be 41.8 ft-lbs. It would just stop clicking initially on the 43 ft-lb setting and then on the 44. So, it is close. If my volume measurement was accurate then the calculated torque is 39 ft-lbs. Either way it is conservative with respect to stripping or yielding bolts. I trust the weight measurement more.

I want to get at least two more rod bolts, as the first one is definitely stretched. Anybody got a junk motor?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg torque calibration.jpg (110.7 KB, 106 views)

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'99 SL2, 5SP bought new
Rebuilt at 204,067 September 2017
Engine, subframe, diff pin mod, brake lines, headliner, alternator, and so on!
'98 SC2, 5SP bought 2018

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Old 07-02-2017, 08:42 PM   #164
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Default Re: 99 SL2 rebuild thread

99 or newer is what you want. Usually it is a road trip to the local pick and pull for blown motor to rob 1 or 2 out of.

These pop up on eBay every so often in odd scales and at reasonable prices. http://imgur.com/0O80xuR The scale is NM so it went cheap.

This older design is usually dead acuate and can be found at reasonable prices. http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-SEEK...4AAOSww9xZBeWQ There is a torsion bar inside of it and HF has this which works. https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-...ter-68283.html these check out as accurate.

In most cases the usual torque wrench is more than adequate but when recycling TTY fasteners they tend to be a bit iffy. Keep in mind that the top and bottom 10-15% of the scale on those clicker wrenches tend to be where the greatest accuracy lies. The center 70-80% is usually OK.

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Old 07-03-2017, 06:59 PM   #165
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Default Re: 99 SL2 rebuild thread

I am thinking of shifting to the transmission while I find conrod bolts. Questions:
1) do I need to replace the axle seals?
2) how about the case gasket? Can I get one or do I make one?
3) I have a small collection of gear pullers and an arbor press. Do I need any other special tools?
4) Alldatadiy mentions throwing away lots of little parts - clips, nuts and so on. Are there parts available? If not, reusable?

...
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'99 SL2, 5SP bought new
Rebuilt at 204,067 September 2017
Engine, subframe, diff pin mod, brake lines, headliner, alternator, and so on!
'98 SC2, 5SP bought 2018

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Old 07-03-2017, 07:35 PM   #166
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Default Re: 99 SL2 rebuild thread

1) yes unles you like leaks
2) there is no gasket see AllData Locktite 515. There is a very specific procedure to be followed. Do not use RTV.
3) read this: http://www.differentracing.com/tech_...sassembly.html
4) you are not tearing each shaft asembly apart so there is only 1 clip and if you do not bend it it can be recycled. The nuts can be reused along with Locktite 272 to lock them. All else is good to reuse.

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Old 07-03-2017, 10:16 PM   #167
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Default Re: 99 SL2 rebuild thread

Thanks OldNuc! I guess I am destined to own every type of locktite known to man!

So, I found a 2000 parts engine. A bit of a drive but I think I'll pick it up.

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'99 SL2, 5SP bought new
Rebuilt at 204,067 September 2017
Engine, subframe, diff pin mod, brake lines, headliner, alternator, and so on!
'98 SC2, 5SP bought 2018

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Old 07-03-2017, 10:56 PM   #168
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Default Re: 99 SL2 rebuild thread

Parts are handy. Keep the sealants in the refrigerator and they last for years. Loctite 272 can be used as the general purpose locktite if you want. Keep in mind that every fastener outside the engine should be either, oiled, loctite, or antiseize. Do not install dry ever as they will stick so tight that removal is near impossible.

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Old 07-04-2017, 02:27 PM   #169
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Default Re: 99 SL2 rebuild thread

Worked a few small things this am. Adam and a buddy of his finished drilling out the busted off bolts for the fuel filter bracket. Then they tapped it to 1/4-20. I think this is the car's first fuel filter change. Also, Adam had gotten a little overzealous on the harbor freight headlight refinish kit and overheated the plastic. I started working the recovery - old tech wet sanding.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg filter in.jpg (167.2 KB, 37 views)
File Type: jpg wet sand.jpg (102.0 KB, 28 views)

...
Bryan Cotton
'99 SL2, 5SP bought new
Rebuilt at 204,067 September 2017
Engine, subframe, diff pin mod, brake lines, headliner, alternator, and so on!
'98 SC2, 5SP bought 2018

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Old 07-05-2017, 02:39 AM   #170
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Default Re: 99 SL2 rebuild thread

Wet sanding works just fine. Watch out for making divots as that fouls up the beam pattern.

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Old 07-06-2017, 08:54 AM   #171
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Default Re: 99 SL2 rebuild thread

Are you going to clear coat it like in this Video?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgNNMj0gGbA

Without clear coat the results won’t last more than a year.

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Old 07-06-2017, 01:13 PM   #172
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Default Re: 99 SL2 rebuild thread

Mark_b,
I'll check the video, thanks.

So, Bob Hook Chevrolet says they can get me new rod bolts!

P/N 21008005 $ 15.04 BOLT. Engine Connecting Rod Cap. (Pack of 8)

http://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.com

...
Bryan Cotton
'99 SL2, 5SP bought new
Rebuilt at 204,067 September 2017
Engine, subframe, diff pin mod, brake lines, headliner, alternator, and so on!
'98 SC2, 5SP bought 2018

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Old 07-06-2017, 09:07 PM   #173
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Default Re: 99 SL2 rebuild thread

Parts Voice shows none of that part number. Be careful to take a close look at the bolts you receive,

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Old 07-06-2017, 11:12 PM   #174
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Default Re: 99 SL2 rebuild thread

OldNuc,
What is parts voice?

Also, RTV question. For the various engine block sealed joints, what RTV should I use? Can I get it online or local?

We pulled the tranny apart tonight. Thanks Hunt4Steve and Low Saturn for your contributions.

Pic 1: shifted into two gears so we can take the nuts off.
Pic 2: got all the stuff off the top
Pic 3: was nervous about prying too hard, so combined a two screwdriver pry and a quick whack. Popped right off.
Pic 4: split
Pic 5: reverse gear
Pic 6: input and output shaft
Pic 7: differential
Pic 8: my punch was interfering with the bearing. I tried using my HF 5/16" center punch. It was not up to the task so I had to grind my punch.
Pic 9: magnet before wiping off the sludge.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg two gears.jpg (118.3 KB, 88 views)
File Type: jpg stuff off top.jpg (116.3 KB, 16 views)
File Type: jpg pry and whack.jpg (116.0 KB, 17 views)
File Type: jpg split.jpg (114.3 KB, 16 views)
File Type: jpg reverse.jpg (116.2 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg two shafts.jpg (110.2 KB, 47 views)
File Type: jpg differential.jpg (116.1 KB, 18 views)
File Type: jpg bent.jpg (189.7 KB, 14 views)
File Type: jpg magnet.jpg (168.8 KB, 58 views)

...
Bryan Cotton
'99 SL2, 5SP bought new
Rebuilt at 204,067 September 2017
Engine, subframe, diff pin mod, brake lines, headliner, alternator, and so on!
'98 SC2, 5SP bought 2018

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Old 07-06-2017, 11:14 PM   #175
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Default Re: 99 SL2 rebuild thread

Aaaaaand - my roll pin was fine. I'll be replacing it anyway.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg not broke.jpg (111.4 KB, 23 views)
File Type: jpg carrier.jpg (105.0 KB, 89 views)

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Bryan Cotton
'99 SL2, 5SP bought new
Rebuilt at 204,067 September 2017
Engine, subframe, diff pin mod, brake lines, headliner, alternator, and so on!
'98 SC2, 5SP bought 2018

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Old 07-07-2017, 12:46 AM   #176
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Default Re: 99 SL2 rebuild thread

They almost always fine.

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Old 07-09-2017, 10:06 PM   #177
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Default Re: 99 SL2 rebuild thread

I bought hunt4steve's roll pins and special drill. We drilled the carrier shaft the other day and the housing tonight. The shaft was easy, we just clamped it down in a V block and drilled it on the press. For the differential case, I didn't take out any bearings or gears so we took precautions. We bagged the bearings. For the bore of the shaft, we rolled up a paper towel and stuffed it into the bore. Then we cut a little circle out of plastic sheet, the size of the carrier shaft, and jammed it up against the paper towel. We blocked up, aligned, and clamped down the diff. I wound a few wraps of cheap duct tape around the housing to ensure no chips would find their way in. We didn't use hunt4steve's special bit on the housing, as my chuck would have hit the bearing. Instead I bought an HSS 6" bit. That worked fine in the relatively soft cast iron. Afterwards, we took off the duct tape and pushed out the plastic circle and paper towel to eject the chips.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg bearing wrap 1.jpg (196.2 KB, 24 views)
File Type: jpg paper towel trick.jpg (100.9 KB, 21 views)
File Type: jpg blocks.jpg (184.5 KB, 18 views)
File Type: jpg clamped.jpg (115.9 KB, 22 views)
File Type: jpg chips.jpg (196.5 KB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg cleared chips.jpg (178.9 KB, 21 views)

...
Bryan Cotton
'99 SL2, 5SP bought new
Rebuilt at 204,067 September 2017
Engine, subframe, diff pin mod, brake lines, headliner, alternator, and so on!
'98 SC2, 5SP bought 2018

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Old 07-09-2017, 11:14 PM   #178
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Default Re: 99 SL2 rebuild thread

That i a good mod for new drivers as blowing up the trans in the middle of the night is no fun.

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Old 07-10-2017, 10:16 PM   #179
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Default Re: 99 SL2 rebuild thread

Adam started screwing the brake and fuel line clips back up. I bought stainless 1/4-20 phillips screws and nylock nuts. He hasn't nylocked it yet.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20170710_155816944.jpg (135.2 KB, 19 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20170710_160357924.jpg (115.5 KB, 15 views)

...
Bryan Cotton
'99 SL2, 5SP bought new
Rebuilt at 204,067 September 2017
Engine, subframe, diff pin mod, brake lines, headliner, alternator, and so on!
'98 SC2, 5SP bought 2018

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Old 07-11-2017, 11:03 PM   #180
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Default Re: 99 SL2 rebuild thread

We reassembled the differential. The new roll pin fit pretty tightly. Then we popped the seals out of the gearbox, and started pressing in the rear main seal.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg hammer time.jpg (186.0 KB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg popping out a seal.jpg (166.0 KB, 21 views)
File Type: jpg pressing in rear main seal.jpg (106.3 KB, 21 views)

...
Bryan Cotton
'99 SL2, 5SP bought new
Rebuilt at 204,067 September 2017
Engine, subframe, diff pin mod, brake lines, headliner, alternator, and so on!
'98 SC2, 5SP bought 2018

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