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Old 02-05-2017, 03:22 AM   #1
swankyjake
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2002 SL1
Default 2002 Saturn SL1 with no heat

I havenít used a forum in years and am new to Saturn Fans. I will try to make this as detailed as possible and will try to clear up as much as I can. Skip down to the asterisks if you arenít looking into any back story.
In April of 2016, I purchased a 2002 SL1 5 speed, manual transmission, all basic options, from my grandma. She took very good care of the car and got the oil changed more than necessary. She followed most of the regulatory maintenance that was necessary. At the time of purchase (of which she sold it to me for only $200) it had 76,000 miles on it. The oil was changed at 77,700 and then again at 81,700. It is approaching 85,200 at the time of me posting this. It burns through about a quart every change (which doesnít surprise me) and around 1 and a half quarts since the last one, probably due to the cold weather (I live in Wisconsin) and short trips. A/C worked wonderfully in the summer once the car was warmed up. The car was running great and I am getting 43 MPG HWY, and about 28 MPG City.

***
Recently, I have had no heat blowing into the cabin. I read up on it and watched videos of various things that could be wrong which led me to this forum. I started replacing parts here and there due to the fact that they had most likely not been replaced and the vehicle is 15 years old. The car never had heat when idle throughout the story I will explain below. All parts replaced were bought at my local OíReilleyís.

Near December 20th I replaced the Tstat in the vehicle. Along with this process I flushed out the heater core as well as replaced the coolant in the vehicle. I flushed out the coolant twice, once with radiator cleaner for good measure, another without, and in with the new 50/50 mix. The previous coolant was not bad but I replaced it out anyway. (My dad and I actually broke the plastic drain valve in the process, but got a new, more reliable (with an end that can be twisted) valve.) We also replaced the air filter at this time and checked the cold/hot dial mix to make sure it was working. The blower motor is working fine as well throughout.

A week later we both had the time to replace the ECTS as I was uncertain if it was the nasty ceramic or brass type. It ended up being brass, but we replaced it anyway. The contacts of the two pin connector were in good shape and did not need to be cleaned up. We also at this time checked the coolant levels too, as it hadnít been driven too much, but it had been a week. This is where things started to look good. I took the car out for a test run and I was finally getting heat. The car actually felt better to drive and didnít feel as clunky either. I was really happy that things were starting to fall into place because I didnít have any heat since November.

January 21 I have to drive back to college which is a 150 mile trip. The trip went great and was the first time I could really get some miles on the new parts. Heat was working and the car was driving great with my economy at around 42 MPG all the way down on a 70MPH interstate. I was amazed at the gas mileage I was getting. The temperature on the dash was running a bit higher than usual (the entire time I owned the vehicle it sat at 3/8ths when fully warmed up). At times when I started the car after taking a pit stop at gas stations, or when driving up a large hill with the gas to the floor to keep speed, it would show the guage at Ĺ, which was a bit surprising. After this it fluctuated between 3/8ths and Ĺ untilÖ

January 31. I decide to check the coolant levels one more time just to make sure everything was alright because of the higher temps and everything looks good. I am driving back from a plasma donation, which is a 30 mile trip into Iowa. I am ĺ of the way home and I am getting nothing but cold air coming out of the vents. I am livid. Unfortunately, the forum was down so I couldnít look into it more this day. Temperatures on the guage were again fluctuating between 3/8ths and Ĺ. My OBD2 scanner was showing temps of 206F at this time (driving about 73mph) and the temperature outside was about 15F. I was so frustrated that I just dropped it and forgot about it to try to get it off my mind.

February 2. Before heading to my second donation, I buy a new radiator cap as it seems to be whenever I check the coolant levels or mess with the thing I either get heat or donít get heat. It didnít help at all, but it was a precaution as I was making sure every variable was accounted for. The entire trip down I donít have any heat whatsoever, (it was 5F outside this day by the way). Before I take off to get to my apartment I think to myself letís rev the engine a bit to 5000RPM and BOOOM I feel something like either an air bubble in the system or the water pump coming to life, Iím not sure. As I rev the engine Iím finally getting heat coming out of the car after three days of no heat. WTF?!? I drive home and have somewhat warm heat but not full blast heat like a normal vehicle should have.

Now I am here kind of stumped. On Feb 2 I thought maybe the last thing to try is the water pump, but I donít have my father to help nor the tools to do the job here on campus.

So in all I have replaced the coolant, radiator cap, tstat, ects, air filter and in the process added about a quart of oil. Itís random, and some days I have heat some days I donít. The radiator cap thing really threw me off because it seemed something would happen when I would mess with it.

Any input would be greatly appreciated, and If Iím missing anything I will be glad to reply. Iím new to this whole thing so I hope I have enough detail. I love browsing this forum mindlessly throughout the day and could scroll through it for hours as I enjoy it so much.

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Old 02-05-2017, 08:30 AM   #2
underthehood
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Default Re: 2002 Saturn SL1 with no heat

Ruling out any mechanical issue in the hvac system. Assuming you checked the temp control cable. You should feel airflow change with the position of the temp control. Also assuming you tried different control positions (i.e. floor, dash and defroster vents)
Now assuming all that your car is exhibiting all the signs of air in the cooling system. First try to bleed it. Run the engine at a fast idle with recovery cap off the bottle. Allow to fully warm up. Watch the flow for huge "burps" and for a change in flow when the state opens (at about 1/2 on the gauge) this should be just about 200F.
Let the engine cycle at idle to just above idle (and for heaven's sake don't be "revving" it into 5k territory or above).
Now if you begin to get heat make sure coolant is topped off properly and drive the car. If heat goes away again your next step is to have a "sniffer" test done on it. This is where a shop will use a tester to investigate if there is combustion gas in the cooling system. If there is the head has to come off. At very least a new head gasket but possibly a new head as I guess the single cam engine has been known to crack it's head.
Good luck

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Old 02-05-2017, 08:43 AM   #3
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Default Re: 2002 Saturn SL1 with no heat

temp gauge should always be in the range of 1/4 to 1/2 on a fully warmed up saturn s series. The cooling fan will kick in slightly above 1/2 and drive the gauge down between 1/4 and 1/2. Sounds like you got air in the cooling or you got a intermittent thermostat. A thermostat is an important device, I only buy the high quality ones. Also make sure it is the correct thermostat, I have bought parts in the past, the box was marked correctly but the wrong item was inside.

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Old 02-05-2017, 07:32 PM   #4
Mike R
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Default Re: 2002 Saturn SL1 with no heat

Read through this thread, very informative http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...heater+diagram

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Old 02-05-2017, 10:55 PM   #5
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Default Re: 2002 Saturn SL1 with no heat

1-A pressure cap does not influence heater core flow or operation. Pressure does not influence coolant flow. Coolant always circulates thru the engine and (normally) heater core - the water pump circulates coolant.

2-A faulty water pump, leaking or (rarely internal damage) broken may influence heater operation but you're likely to have more serious issues than a lack of heat. Other than a broken or missing drive belt that powers the water pump, a/c compressor and alternator, water pumps are continuously circulating coolant thru the heater core and more importantly the engine. If a belt breaks or actual damage occurs to a water pump, you'd know it in less than ten minutes of driving at any speed because without coolant continually circulating from pump operation the engine simply overheats, If ignored with the temperature gauge steadily moving into the redline, coolant simply boils over and erupts from the coolant container. Coolant blowing out the coolant container, the engine running rough and possibly seizing as coolant no longer circulates around each cylinder's coolant jacket, and you'll probably stop in the middle of traffic or breakdown lane on a highway. The lack of heat from the heater is the last thing on your mind.

When you manually flushed the heater core and two hoses to ensure free passages, this only cleaned out any debris in hoses and heater core. Did you check the outlet pipe for blockage when the hose was removed? Did you check the other coolant hoses for blockage? The heater core relies on pump flow thru hoses from engine outlet to return hose to the coolant container. Purging of any trapped air is usually automatic with one of the hoses but if you're not sure, you can always jack up the front end or park uphill to allow normal water pump action to circulate any air out of the engine and heater to the coolant container regardless whether or not the coolant cap is on or off. You can choose to do this with a cold engine or warm. If warm, position the front end higher than normal and slowly unscrew the coolant cap (to prevent hot coolant from blowing out and scalding hands, eye, face). Slow removal of the coolant cap will allow pressures to bleed out without being scalded then remove the cap and allow the engine to run for 15-30 minutes, enough to allow coolant circulation while the thermostat cycles open and close. Since coolant always circulates thru the heater core, you should be able to see this as return flow from the heater to the coolant container. Rev the engine a little to see this.

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Old 02-06-2017, 09:04 AM   #6
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Default Re: 2002 Saturn SL1 with no heat

The oil consumption is normal, due to defective piston design. It will continue to get worse as the mileage increases on the engine. You can run expensive synthetic Mobil-1, or try a mix of 1qt Dex-III ATF with your conventional oil to clean the rings. The oil control rings are the problem, here. Eventually, the engine will need to be rebuilt, regardless of which option you choose to stave off the oil consumption, and drain back holes will need to be drilled into the pistons to cure the problem.

Over the course of 100,000 miles, it is cheaper in the long run to have the engine rebuilt, as opposed to overpriced, fancy, and expensive synthetic oil being used. I have actually crunched the numbers on this one.

Your cooling system issues and no heat are most likely the result of a failing head gasket, or a cracked cylinder head. Death-Cool orange is notorious for damaging the head gaskets, that were used on pretty much all GM vehicles between 1996-2004. GM settled, out of court in 2008, to a class-action lawsuit for this issue.

Ask any reputable mechanic, that has been in the business for at least 30+ years, and they will advise you of this problem.

It is possible to get a bad thermostat, even when they are brand new. However, your temperature gauge is reading within normal ranges, for highway driving. The fact that you can rev the engine and get heat, tells me you have insufficient or partial flow through the heater core.

Before doing a sniffer test, have a pressure test done on your cooling system. This will show if you have a cracked head gasket or some form of internal leak causing your issue.

If you have no leaks or issues on the test, then start with your water pump.

And lose the A/C, altogether, unless you like replacing your cooling fan motor every 2-3 years. The cooling fan runs, anytime the A/C compressor clutch is commanded "ON" by the PCM. This wears the fan motor out very quickly, as it is merely a DC motor, and really wasn't designed to run all the time.

And even in 5įF weather, here in Ohio, my Twin Cam struggles to keep the coolant temps at 190įF(about 1/2 gauge mark), while driving. The SOHC runs much cooler than the Twin Cam(better fuel maps and atomization, better cam profile for efficiency), so having mediocre heat in near 0įF air temps can also be quite normal.

Final point: A cracked head gasket and/or cracked cylinder head will result in gradual coolant losses, with no puddles under the car, while producing higher amounts of white smoke out your exhaust and/or a milky buildup on your oil fill cap. It can also mix with the oil, causing a "coffee-with-creamer-looking" sludge to fill your crankcase and severely high oil levels.

...
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1995 Saturn SC2 @ 183k - DOHC w/auto 1qt/100mi

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Old 02-06-2017, 09:42 AM   #7
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Default Re: 2002 Saturn SL1 with no heat

Lots of bad advice given above. First transmission fluid is called transmission fluid because THAT and only THAT is where it belongs (save for applications where it is called for in the power steering system). You would not put engine oil in a trans and likewise should NEVER put it in the engine. An old wives tail going WAY back to the early 50's.
A water pump bad enough to affect the heat will have FAR more disastrous consequences than just no heat.
While a good pressure test CAN uncover SOME faults I have personally seen many engines that can hold pressure test just fine but then fail a sniffer test. The sniffer is the ONLY definitive test that can diagnose combustion gasses in the cooling system
There is NO need to "lose your AC system". It will NOT cause damage to the cooling system. A properly maintained and functioning system is NOT affected by AC.
DexCool is NOT the enemy of your engine. True there were some early issues on SOME not ALL engines using it. However, those engines that showed issues were engines that typically ALWAYS tended to have failures of that type LONG before DexCool came on the scene. I.E. Intake gaskets on Chevy small block V8's Those damn gaskets have been failure prone going WELL back into the 60's (I am sure even earlier I was just not in the automotive repair business that long ago) but I do know when I was apprenticing hearing the "old timers" going on about them being an issue going back to the mid 50's which was the inception of that engine. I have actually run DexCool in engines other than GM with no issues what so ever. The major issue with it is mixing old style green with red. Not good. For the record though I do not use it any more choosing the universal long life since I take care of so many types of vehicles (Mopar, Toyota, GM, Nissan) so it's easier to buy and stock one type.
Yes oil consumption on a Saturn "S" series is "normal" but the amount you describe is NOT. I am amazed you're not seeing a huge cloud behind you.
However this extreme consumption combined with your no heat could be a clue pointing to a head gasket or head issue
Best of luck

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Old 02-06-2017, 11:09 AM   #8
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Default Re: 2002 Saturn SL1 with no heat

Hey I had your oil consumption comment mixed up with Dominator's. Though my advice still stands just not the observation of extreme oil consumption (though there are some who consider "normal" on a Saturn "extreme" LOL

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Old 02-06-2017, 12:14 PM   #9
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Default Re: 2002 Saturn SL1 with no heat

Quote:
Originally Posted by underthehood View Post
Lots of bad advice given above. First transmission fluid is called transmission fluid because THAT and only THAT is where it belongs (save for applications where it is called for in the power steering system). You would not put engine oil in a trans and likewise should NEVER put it in the engine. An old wives tail going WAY back to the early 50's.
A water pump bad enough to affect the heat will have FAR more disastrous consequences than just no heat.
While a good pressure test CAN uncover SOME faults I have personally seen many engines that can hold pressure test just fine but then fail a sniffer test. The sniffer is the ONLY definitive test that can diagnose combustion gasses in the cooling system
There is NO need to "lose your AC system". It will NOT cause damage to the cooling system. A properly maintained and functioning system is NOT affected by AC.
DexCool is NOT the enemy of your engine. True there were some early issues on SOME not ALL engines using it. However, those engines that showed issues were engines that typically ALWAYS tended to have failures of that type LONG before DexCool came on the scene. I.E. Intake gaskets on Chevy small block V8's Those damn gaskets have been failure prone going WELL back into the 60's (I am sure even earlier I was just not in the automotive repair business that long ago) but I do know when I was apprenticing hearing the "old timers" going on about them being an issue going back to the mid 50's which was the inception of that engine. I have actually run DexCool in engines other than GM with no issues what so ever. The major issue with it is mixing old style green with red. Not good. For the record though I do not use it any more choosing the universal long life since I take care of so many types of vehicles (Mopar, Toyota, GM, Nissan) so it's easier to buy and stock one type.
Yes oil consumption on a Saturn "S" series is "normal" but the amount you describe is NOT. I am amazed you're not seeing a huge cloud behind you.
However this extreme consumption combined with your no heat could be a clue pointing to a head gasket or head issue
Best of luck
It is a documented FACT, that Dex-Cool causes the compressed fiber design of bi-metal head gaskets(the kind our S-Series had installed at the factory), to swell up and blow out the metal rings around the cylinders.

ATF CAN be used in an engine, to clean out debris and sludge, and contains the same viscosity equivalent as a 20-weight engine oil.

10w-30 engine oil CAN be used in a worn automatic transmission to stave off failure, as long as it is not the only fluid inside the transmission.

A cracked head gasket or a cracked cylinder head WILL cause coolant loss, where a sniffer test is not needed. If your engine is pumping any form of air, into a compressed and sealed system of liquid, the liquid WILL be displaced somewhere by simple physics, which in this case would be out the exhaust system as steam. The air would still have to travel through the cooling system, which does include the heater core. Air still requires pressure to move, which means a failing water pump COULD be too weak to push the air bubble against the remaining fluid at lower speeds, hence why when the engine is revved up, the force of the pump changes, and pushes the air through, and allows more coolant into the heater core, and thus heat blows out temporarily.

I am currently running a 50/50 mix, of 10w-30/Dex-III ATF in my engine. It was drinking oil before I started driving it. Using ATF to clean an engine is actually better than using Seafoam, or other solvent-based cleaners in the engine, and will not harm the internal seals like they can.

In fact, one user of this forum, actually solved his oil burning issue by running ATF in an emergency where his oil level got below the cross hatched area.

Let me see if I can find the thread, because I can certainly find the PDF document showing that Death-Cool eats head gaskets, where the engine rebuilder performing his test used a micrometer to show the difference in gasket thicknesses of green vs Dex-Kill

The A/C system increases engine load, while the compressor is on. This results in increased fuel consumption and lower thermal efficiency of the engine, which translates to increased heat production. Which system removes heat from the engine, again? Oh, wait, the cooling system. So, this increases the load on your cooling system, which is also used to cool the heated transmission fluid. An over-worked cooling system will eventually fail, aside from a suddenly fried cooling fan assembly because it was ran continuously during periods of A/C operation, to keep the condenser cool for proper refrigerant circulation.

And as physics would dictate, increasing heat, causes molecular expansion. Too much heat breaks down the molecule.

Ditch the A/C, and your engine will last much longer. This usually explains why removal of accessories driven by the serpentine belt, helps to improve fuel economy as well.

If you ever want to test how much friction is running through that serpentine belt, drive the car around with the A/C running, and when you get home, pop your hood and touch the belt.

Once again, anecdotal evidence, but removing the smog pump and A/C system on my old Camaro, allowed me to drive all the way across my state and back, with 3/8 of a tank of gas left. It was a 518-mile trip, and a 19-gallon tank. I got just under 700 miles, out of that tank, with a 3.1L V-6 push rod engine that is U.S. EPA estimated at only 16mpg city/25 highway.

So, how did I average almost 40mpg on that trip, without having made any other modifications to the car?

It was showing 176,xxx on the clock, on a factory 700r4, when it was totaled by a Cadillac...... Never had any problems with the transmission being overheated, either.

Never overheated one time, even when the thermostat stuck partially shut on a 90-mile trip back from Pittsburgh to Ohio. Never blew the cooling fan motor. Never had any cooling system problems, in that car, that affected my heater or head gaskets. Oh, wait, it had GREEN, from the factory........

Next time you think somebody gives bad advice in your opinion, either try out what they are claiming or do your research.

...
1991 Pontiac Grand Am @ 142k - Iron Duke w/auto
1995 Saturn SC2 @ 183k - DOHC w/auto 1qt/100mi

Last edited by Saturn Night; 02-06-2017 at 12:28 PM..

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Old 02-06-2017, 04:00 PM   #10
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Default Re: 2002 Saturn SL1 with no heat

Been around a VERY long time and have tried/done just about everything you say I am wrong about and determined it's useless to put ATF in a crankcase. It's ATF for a REASON. ATF does not have to deal with combustion byproducts, or the extreme pressure issues and high heat of an engine. It also does not clean anything any better than a fresh oil change. (Maybe you should try Kerosene that was another old trick people did) As for putting 5W30 in an AT that too is a butcher shop trick to squirt a failing automatic by to an unsuspecting buyer. There are other tricks too. They "work" but they cause more harm than good long run. For instance. Leaking engine or trans seals? A little brake fluid added will swell the seal(s) and stop the leak FOR A LITTLE WHILE. It WILL however destroy the seal so when it begins leaking again it's not just a "leak" it's a gusher.
Lubricants and fluids are designed with specific purposes ONLY and they should be used accordingly.
As far as DexCool look hard enough and you'll find something. But in all the years I have been around it and used it I have NEVER once seen an engine failure related to it ESPECIALLY on the Saturn.
But the failures everyone blames on DexCool I have been seeing since LONG before it ever came out. Again the biggest issue with it is it does not like to play with other products, which causes it to build up an acidic environment and cause sludging and such when other coolants (not engineered to mix with it) are introduced to it.
"A cracked head gasket or a cracked cylinder head WILL cause coolant loss, where a sniffer test is not needed. If your engine is pumping any form of air, into a compressed and sealed system of liquid, the liquid WILL be displaced somewhere by simple physics, which in this case would be out the exhaust system as steam. The air would still have to travel through the cooling system, which does include the heater core. Air still requires pressure to move, which means a failing water pump COULD be too weak to push the air bubble against the remaining fluid at lower speeds, hence why when the engine is revved up, the force of the pump changes, and pushes the air through, and allows more coolant into the heater core, and thus heat blows out temporarily."
I can't even begin to count the number of times I have seen an engine hold pressure under test and fail a sniffer. Hell it happened twice to me alone on TWO DIFFERENT engines not even related to each other. Once on a Chrysler 3.8 and the other on a Ford 302 V8!
Again as for a "weak" water pump sure I've seen this BUT it was also associated with other problems like over heating, error codes and so on.

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Old 02-06-2017, 06:09 PM   #11
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Default Re: 2002 Saturn SL1 with no heat

I had a 1986 Ford Ranger with a 2L 4 cylinder that had no heat at idle and heat while running at highway speed. It was the water pump. The issue happened in winter and never effected the engine performance. If you revved the engine while stopped you could feel the heat temperature increase. My 2000 Saturn SL2 is now at 419,000 km and its on its 3rd water pump. Usually they get noisy and that is when I replace them.

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Old 02-06-2017, 09:43 PM   #12
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Default Re: 2002 Saturn SL1 with no heat

http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/index.php/site/faq/

I have never use the marvel mystery oil myself, but have used Dex III compatible in every oil change since the 1970's.

Each oil change I substitute 1 qt ATF for oil.

Underthehood has his opinion and other have theirs.

My '96 suburban has 330K on it, and in 45 years of owning and driving 17+ cars, I have never had to have any of those engines opened up for ANYTHING.

The Suburban even has all original sensors, water pump and starter.

And I add it to the gas also. No, no clouds of smoke ever, just better MPG.

Try it, you will like it..

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Old 02-06-2017, 10:41 PM   #13
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Default Re: 2002 Saturn SL1 with no heat

I'd like to know how a simple "I have no heat..." becomes a debate about oil, engines, additives, and anything else before the OP replies..........

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Old 02-07-2017, 01:27 AM   #14
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Default Re: 2002 Saturn SL1 with no heat

The original post, though lengthy, mentions that oil consumption is a secondary issue the owner has noticed.

The debate starts, when people immediately voice that one person's advice is automatically bad because they simply don't agree with it, regardless of what hard facts will state.

Now, there is no documented proof that ATF will clean an engine. In fact, throughout my searches on this tidbit, the only evidence I have been able to locate has been antecedent.

A lot of fixes that people have found, are typically antecedent. This doesn't make them "bad".

Death-Cool, however, has been proven with factual evidence to damage head gaskets and cause a variety of problems with engines and overheating issues.

The only evidence I have found, to show that Death-Cool is a good coolant technology has been antecedent, ironically.

However, I am trying to use ATF in my engine. I know what it looked like, with the dried up gunk inside the cylinder head, when I first got the car in my driveway.

I have also seen the inside guts of my TAAT, as well as the inside guts of my THM-125C, to see how clean they were despite all the mileage on them.

While my engine was badly abused to the point, it will likely be too far gone to save with this method, I am also curious to see what the engine will look like, when it does get tore down.

I am betting I will see much cleaner surfaces, inside that engine, but if I don't then I will confirm it doesn't work and stop advising it.

Until that time, it is a possible rectification method that CAN be used, and if you are burning oil, what is going to hurt anyway? The engine will need rebuilt or replaced regardless, to correct the flaw in the pistons. So, while it may not help, it certainly won't hurt.

...
1991 Pontiac Grand Am @ 142k - Iron Duke w/auto
1995 Saturn SC2 @ 183k - DOHC w/auto 1qt/100mi

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Old 02-10-2017, 12:31 PM   #15
swankyjake
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Default Re: 2002 Saturn SL1 with no heat

Quote:
Originally Posted by fdryer View Post
I'd like to know how a simple "I have no heat..." becomes a debate about oil, engines, additives, and anything else before the OP replies..........
I agree haha. Going to be reading up on all the replies this weekend. Thank you all so much for the replies. I haven't been able to drive the car around too much as I have work and classes. Will let you know what I find out later this weekend.

...
----------------
2002 Saturn SL1 -- "Swankster"

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Old 02-10-2017, 12:59 PM   #16
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Default Re: 2002 Saturn SL1 with no heat

While you are reading do verify you have a full, solid stream of coolant returning to the right rear of the reservoir through the 3/8 hose. If there is no flow there will be NO HEAT. This is a common SOHC problem.

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Old 02-10-2017, 04:15 PM   #17
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Default Re: 2002 Saturn SL1 with no heat

Usually a bad head gasket/intake gasket will throw some kind of misfire code and the engine usually has a miss. If you are not getting any codes and the engine is not misfiring I agree you need to check the flow. I have seen many many cases where the water pump impellar (the blade that move the coolant) actually separates from the shaft enough where it does not spin. This usually does not cause a leak BUT it prevents the coolant from being pushed through the system which you need to get hot coolant to your heater core.

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Old 02-10-2017, 05:20 PM   #18
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Default Re: 2002 Saturn SL1 with no heat

You figure that out when you look for flow. Very few Saturn water pumps have experienced impeller failure, statistically none.

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Old 02-10-2017, 05:27 PM   #19
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Default Re: 2002 Saturn SL1 with no heat

Don't ignore the possibility that the issue could be with the heater. If the bracket that moves the heat duct comes off the hvac box you will never get more than 1/2 heat. Pull the left side velcro panel from the hvac box and ensure the sheath is secure.

-Robert

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Old 02-10-2017, 05:29 PM   #20
buffalo14052
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Default Re: 2002 Saturn SL1 with no heat

Agreed I have only seen one Saturn water pump do this and I believe it was because the customer drove the veh to my shop with no coolant and the pump basicly came apart due to lack of lubrication. Now if you owned a Volkswagen....

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