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Old 01-10-2017, 08:24 PM   #1
bird_shane
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Default Coolant Flush and Water Pump Replacement

So I attempted to start flushing my coolant before changing the water pump. I drained the coolant from the bottom of the radiation. Then I closed peatcock(spelling?) and put in some radiator flush and cleaner into the reservoir then topped it off with distilled water. I now realize that I don't think I drained all of the coolant. I can't drain from the thermostat because the bolts got stripped when I changed it a few months ago. I noticed a build up of some sort of mineral solid when I replaced the thermostat so that when I figured a coolant flush would be good. How can I fix any possible problems I may have caused? How do I get the coolant back to the proper concentration?

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Old 01-10-2017, 08:30 PM   #2
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Default Re: Coolant Flush and Water Pump Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by bird_shane View Post
So I attempted to start flushing my coolant before changing the water pump. I drained the coolant from the bottom of the radiation. Then I closed peatcock(spelling?) and put in some radiator flush and cleaner into the reservoir then topped it off with distilled water. I now realize that I don't think I drained all of the coolant. I can't drain from the thermostat because the bolts got stripped when I changed it a few months ago. I noticed a build up of some sort of mineral solid when I replaced the thermostat so that when I figured a coolant flush would be good. How can I fix any possible problems I may have caused? How do I get the coolant back to the proper concentration?


I was letting the car run and was monitoring the reservoir level to add more water when I noticed that the reservoir was bubbling. I quickly turned it off, any help is appreciated. I had checked it at about 5 minutes and the reservoir had dropped a tad, at ten minutes and it dropped a bit more then at 20 minutes was when it was boiling.

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Old 01-10-2017, 08:34 PM   #3
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Default Re: Coolant Flush and Water Pump Replacement

Final update, the reservoir was about empty and it took 1/3 of a gallon of distilled water to fill up.

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Old 01-10-2017, 09:58 PM   #4
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Default Re: Coolant Flush and Water Pump Replacement

You haven't mentioned that you added coolant at all.
How much water have you added total?
You say you stripped the thermostat bolts, is there any leak at the housing or are the bolts jammed (mis-threaded) and no leaks but you are unable to loosen the bolts?
Where do you live?
If you don't know the concentration, I'd get one of those cheapo floating balls devices that will at least give a good guess at how much cold weather protection you have now.

It doesn't sound like you have changed out the water pump yet.
So, whatever coolant level you have will be lost when you do the drainage and then replace the pump.

Last edited by toggenburg; 01-10-2017 at 10:03 PM..

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Old 01-10-2017, 10:19 PM   #5
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Default Re: Coolant Flush and Water Pump Replacement

Thats a great idea with the coolant level check.

There are no leaks, I was able to tighten it, I just don't want to test my luck.

I haven't added any coolant because I was following the directions on the radiator flush and clean.

I live in Southern California, it's not going to drop below 32 anytime soon. That's why I followed the directions and only added water with the flush and clean. I planned on draining it and replacing it with coolant before the temps drop too low.

Yea I'm expecting to get some drainage with the pump replacement. In my mind I thought the petcock drained all of the fluid, so I was kind of concerned when I found out it doesn't. I guess I'll just try and manipulate the coolant levels until it is at a safe concentration after I replace the pump.

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Old 01-10-2017, 10:43 PM   #6
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Default Re: Coolant Flush and Water Pump Replacement

1-Is the mineral solids building up around the t-stat housing (suggesting a gasket leak) or somewhere else?

2-If you drained coolant from the radiator, most coolant is drained, leaving some in the engine and heater core. Less than two gallons fills S-series cooling systems. With a radiator drain, the open petcock and open coolant container allows air to replace coolant, leaving less for a complete drain. You'll know as soon as you close the petcock and refill with plain/distilled water and flush chemicals. Usually a gallon of water is needed initially and as air is displaced, the coolant container should bubble up as air is purged. More air is purged as soon as the engine is started - observe the coolant container and how much water is used to fill. Deduct this amount from less than two gallons (1.9) and that's what remained from draining only the radiator.

3-It would be better, if you're keeping this car, to removing and replacing the t-stat bolts for future repairs. Being small, these bolts should be available either from auto stores, Home Depot, Lowes, Advance Auto, NAPA, etc.. Metric nuts and bolts should be available.

4-If you want to be sure of correct antifreeze mix or close to it but don't want to remove the t-stat, you can always flush twice (running plain/distilled water around the neighborhood then draining and refilling again for another drive then drain. The second flush should rid the system of old coolant. Simply pour in a gallon of 100% antifreeze and top off with plain/distilled water. You'll probably have more antifreeze than water but this won't hurt the cooling system.

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Old 01-10-2017, 10:48 PM   #7
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Default Re: Coolant Flush and Water Pump Replacement

Radiator petcock only drains the radiator. You still have coolant in the heater core/engine block. You can drain additional fluid from the engine block or by the thermostat hose. Radiator pet cocky only gets about 60/70 of fluid if I remember correctly.

When I flushed my system with the prestone cleaner I drained/filled the water in the radiator resivor 3 to 4 times before it ran clear. I then filled it with the cleaner and commuted to work for 3 days. Flushed it again 3 to 4 times with distilled to clear the cleaner then filled with 1 gal concentrate topped of with distilled.

It's a messy job but most shops won't do it as well as you can on your own and it only costs $20 to $30 to flush it yourself.

Obviously this advice has to play into your water pump replacement. Are you doing it yourself. You definitely want to get those thermostat bolts replaced and replace the thermostat with the water pump.

Edit: Now is s good time to switch to universal coolant and get away from dexcool.

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Old 01-12-2017, 11:23 PM   #8
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Default Re: Coolant Flush and Water Pump Replacement

There is also a drain directly under neath the Tstat housing. 10mm bolt if IIRC. But pulling the hose from the Tstat housing also works to drain more fluid out, in fact it's probably preferred over using the 10mm bolt. When you put the hose back on, be careful to not jam it all the way on, leave it backed off a titch, it will leak otherwise.

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