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Old 09-03-2016, 09:15 AM   #1
Medtactics
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Post Meds Garage Project

Welcome to Medtactics mod thread and documentary!

Sense I was having issues of getting zero help with car issues (consolidating threads), I decided to move the thread here, original located here.

As we cannot edit post, everything I do/want to do mod or part wise will be here. This is constantly updated, be to check every once in a while.

Now the end goal is is a road rally car, a jack of trades, capable of 200mph, but that won't be for at least 5 years.

For now it's efficiency with power being secondary. I'm shooting for 175WHP NA (or 190HP at crank) through unique parts, bolt-on mods and science while being capable of 50 or more mpg. Now this project will cost a lot, about 20k cold hard cash, with interior and suspension being half of that, artificially it will be higher with shipping, repair cost, and tools.

This thread will also be hopefully used for standard repair and diagnosing normal car issues and questions, so be sure to check in every once in a while, I don't like spamming new threads in the general/tech section if i can keep'em here.

Last edited by Medtactics; 09-03-2016 at 09:24 AM..

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Old 09-03-2016, 09:34 AM   #2
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Default Re: Meds Garage Project

Quote:
Originally Posted by Medtactics View Post

Sense I was having issues of getting zero help with car issues
Probably because most members don't have the disposable income that you seem to have, nor the knowledge/gearhead base,as well as the practicality( goes to income).

I do enjoy and appreciate your postings, as they offer more tech info than most.

YOu're blazing the trail , so don't expect much from the rest of us.

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Old 09-03-2016, 12:47 PM   #3
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Default Re: Meds Garage Project

Ok. I went ahead and looked through your list of parts. Excellent choices for your suspension. You don't have to worry about rubber deterioration or retaining moisture resulting in premature corrosion to vital suspension components.

You will need to bench test your cylinder head. It should factory-flow at 133cfm through the ports. This is only enough flow to reach 191 HP with NA-tuning, 100% volumetric efficiency on that little Saturn block. As we all know, in realtime, no NA-engine every actually achieves 100% volumetric efficiency. So, to target 190 HP out of an engine that can only make 191 with its factory design, you will definitely have your work cut out for you.

To reach your goal, I see you have already gotten an EGR Simulator amd what appears to be a kit for removing your catalytic converter.

Wise choices.

In addition to the bolt-ons, you may need to bore your cylinders out, perform a port polish on the head, and slap in a 3-angle valve job. I also recommend the 91-92 valves because they are flat faced, where as 93-up were dished. This is a very cheap way to boost your compression by 0.2-0.25 points without requiring the need for unleaded premium fuel.

I do not recommend the trailer hitch, unless you plan on using a super charger with this build.

If you are staying NA-tuned, the trailer hitch will merely add weight to the car. Towing should be avoided on this particular build, because you will not have the low-end torque that towing typically needs.

Switching to fuel vapor, as we discussed in my thread, will be about the only way you will see 50+ mpg out of this build from my experiences of playing with bolt-ons on various engines.

The largest gains I have ever seen from bolt-ons was my 1993 Pontiac Grand Am, with the Quad OHC variant. It had a 5-speed, and averaged about a combined city/highway of 26mpg.

I "modified" the air box to sit on the driver's side shock tower, duct taped a K & N air filter to it, chopped of my cat for a piece of straight pipe, used Bosch +4 platinum plugs, and swapped my stock 14" steel rims(185/70 R14 S-rated) for a set of stock 16" Aluminum wheels and 205/55/ R16 H-rated tires from a 94 Grand Am GT.

When all was said in done, I averaged about 34 mpg combined city/highway(+8 mpg), but I only added maybe 15-20hp to the stock 115 HP it had.

...
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Old 09-03-2016, 10:41 PM   #4
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Default Re: Meds Garage Project

@billysvue

I more so ment like basic car issues, like my car stopped working and dropped a coil, now it won't start kind of problem (it was my CKP sensor). I also coulda swore someone just said that everything has atleast been done twice and documented once?

@Saturn Night

That's a Upstream heated 02 sensor retro fit for a Firebird, the EGR simulator is for Opal Z22 motor. Have to re-design the exhaust again, just discovered a rather obscure exhaust, not as rare as the air filter I'm looking at, it's just how to get a hold of the parts being only available in Europe through select distributors, like amsoil but much worse.

Engine internals will only happen when I do a timing refresh, unless something drastic happens before then.

As for the trailer hitch I'm sure i'll have plenty down low.

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Old 09-10-2016, 04:11 PM   #5
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Default Re: Meds Garage Project

Update #1

https://imgur.com/a/qhQeW

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Old 09-11-2016, 12:56 PM   #6
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Default Re: Meds Garage Project

Update #2, plus pseudo guide for performance dog-bone inserts.

Part 1/2
Part 2/2

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Old 09-12-2016, 12:58 AM   #7
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Default Re: Meds Garage Project

Update #3 - Heated 02 install

https://imgur.com/a/9H175

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Old 09-12-2016, 01:41 PM   #8
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Default Re: Meds Garage Project

I mostly stopped paying attention because the NA goals and 200MPH is a combo that will fail miserably. Especially with all the weight and gimmicks being added.

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Old 09-12-2016, 03:43 PM   #9
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Default Re: Meds Garage Project

I never said that... I have said 200mph with a 3rd gen LTG 2.0L EcoTec, there are no NA 2.0L versions, only turbo charged, paired with a F35/F40 tranny. But that won't be for another 5 years. If I tried 200mph on a LLO it would have to rev to 14,000 rpm on a stock tranny and make 400hp, which neigh impossible or would only possibly survive one run.

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Old 09-12-2016, 03:49 PM   #10
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Default Re: Meds Garage Project

The original post is unclear then.

Also your math for 200 MPH is off for 14k RPM
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Old 09-12-2016, 06:39 PM   #11
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Default Re: Meds Garage Project

On 195/40/15 tires? And isn't redline (technically fuel cut off) 6750?

"But that won't be for atleast 5 years", I figure in that amount time a better motor might come to be or 4th gen ecotec will have been released and I would have a bit more racing experience, in other words the motor swap is not happening anytime soon. I do not have the capital for that kind of stuff yet. All the small items, suspension, interior, stage 1-2 mods? Yes. Stage 3 type stuff? No, atleast not anytime soon. Even then I lack the extensive tooling for them projects.

Okay did the real math instead of, im supposed to be working mental math, about 9000rpm, which is touching the extream end by a lot, considering the piston speeds.

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Old 09-12-2016, 08:40 PM   #12
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Default Re: Meds Garage Project

http://www.apexgarage.com/tech/horsepower_calc.shtml

With the STOCK curb weight, you would need 391.7 HP(RPM irrelevant) to hit a top speed of 200mph. Regardless of actual gear ratio, if you do not have at least 392 HP, you will not hit 200 due to aerodynamic drag.

With the stock 1.9L engine, or even a 2.2L Boat anchor swap, you would need a Turbo at minimum. This would add additional weight, which would increase the HP needed.

Let's estimate the turbo adds 60 lbs.

In that case, you would need 1 extra HP.

http://www.apexgarage.com/tech/gear_ratios.shtml

The stock 5-speed manual has enough gear ratio to get you to 192mph.

Therefore you would need to change the final drove gear, down to 3.730(207mph).

You would need to do this because top speed ratio is calculated at redline rpm, which is usually 500rpm over the peak HP rpm.

Can you do it with the stock 1.9L, probably. And that is calculates on the STOCK 195/60 R15 tires.

...
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Old 09-15-2016, 10:28 AM   #13
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Default Re: Meds Garage Project

Update #4 - EGR simulator

https://imgur.com/a/KzjX2

It works, but trips the low reference voltage, as long as it doesn't trip anything else which takes 10deg ign adv off I will consider it a success. On the other I will be buying a tech II, anyone know before hand what parameters can be changed? If I can disable EGR completely and change speed reference for different tire size that would be great.

Also weapon-R vs AMR for intake pipe? So far leaning towards weapon-R.

Last edited by Medtactics; 09-15-2016 at 10:33 AM..

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Old 09-16-2016, 11:24 PM   #14
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Default Re: Meds Garage Project

The problem with the Chinese tech 2 is there are serious firmware issues. The info is all on eBay so do your homework. At some time in the past I posted the Powertrain control manual descriptions of each and every Tech-2 Saturn screens and what is reported or controlled.

Do you know what is in that simulator?

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Old 09-19-2016, 12:40 AM   #15
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Default Re: Meds Garage Project

Ya read all that, I haven't heard of anyone having issues, but you can't reflash, looking at the Bosch version and their newer computer based model. Also anyone have the circuit diagram for the 5 pin egr? not wire or pin out diagram, the circuit diagram. The simulator works, but GM PCM looks for pin C voltage, which was unexpected, but possibly 'fixable' with minimal pseudo-testing or none at all.

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Old 10-27-2016, 10:55 AM   #16
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Default Re: Meds Garage Project

Well sure has been a while and accomplished so little, the EGR cheater kinda works, did a lot of testing crossing various wires and such. So far the best i can get out of it was to snip the pintel motor leads and leave it [EGR] attached, same for the harness, minus two leads. As for the code i keep pulling it is a Circuit performance code which only retards ignition by 5 deg, much better then 10 deg or more. Doing this allowed me to travel at 90mph and get 38mpg with bad injector (although i suspect other factors are sadly at play also).

I have also purchased the AMR strut tower bar 2 weeks ago, i believe its supposed to ship out today... which now it has free shipping, about $70 off, make use of it, kinda disappointed, Code: saturnsc2freeshipping

I also just recently recieved my Mopar fuel injectors! So ****'n gorgeous they are, don't know when they went into production, but best i could gather is 2014, so basically cutting edge in terms low pressure injection appilcations (around 60psi). Sadly i got to ahead of my self thinking it would very easy and minimally involved project. I was quite wrong, learning that you are supposed lube the o'ring in a thin film of oil, STP oil treatment or Vaseline, and always get a kit of o'rings as you are bound to pinch one or two that came with injectors.

Ended up reusing an old o'ring on #1 and all fuel port o'rings are one time use without lube (and possibly with) with vacume leaks. The fuel port is a little ruffer then i thought, so make sure you get it right on the fuel rail side before installing first time around.

When you push in injectors into the rail make sure its a hard to moderatly hard transition, if it goes from extremely hard to all the way in very easily you, pinched the o'ring. If you still think its good give the injector a twist, there shouldn't be any sound, if you hear a creaking rubber sound, its pinched.

Fixed the vacume leaks by pushing the fuel rail and injectors into the fuel ports as far as they can go and applied SAE 20 oil over each fuel port to possibly swell the the o'rings, with the injectors/rail being so far forwards it is no longer possible to bolt the rail down, being closer to the head, but i kinda don't want to fix it ethier (being closer to the head), although modifying the rail bolts is a good possibility.

Here are the photo docs, 56k warning;
EGR sim #2
Update #5

Enjoy!

Last edited by Medtactics; 10-27-2016 at 11:04 AM..

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Old 11-07-2016, 12:03 AM   #17
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Default Re: Meds Garage Project

Update #6 - https://imgur.com/a/qttWf

Got the strut brace, raw aluminum, and gotta say it looks pretty slick (except the sticker) and is built quite robust. Fits perfectly, although designed for imperfections from vehicle to vehicle which allows for a lot movement when not torqued down, which does cause some worry for high G cornering, rough roads, frame-loading, and airborne landings that may cause it to shift leaving it to not be as effective.

Other then that a worthy upgrade, especially now with free shipping for a limited time, that stiffens up the front frame. As another member put it, makes the turning more responsive and car dosen't feel like it's playing catch-up. The other thing is that it eliminates frame loading which takes out a bit of guess work in cross winds, or in my case a loose component in the steering (now i can actually feel the car move side-by-side instead of a rocking motion), increasing tracking. Which is nice when wanting to "thread the needle" so to speak or maintain a straight line, we'll any line really, in high speed conditions.

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Old 11-07-2016, 12:41 AM   #18
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I can't wait to see a video of this thing in autocross or at the strip.

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Old 03-09-2017, 09:13 PM   #19
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Default Re: Meds Garage Project

Doing a major front end rebuild, everything is new, nothing remaned, my list consist of;

DriveStar (2016 design) wheel bearings

Mopar tie-rods ends

Specialty Products front camber and rear toe adjusters so mechanic won't complain and maybe get the rear actually adjusted for the 4th time after paying extra for nothing...

Heri CV shafts

Anything else I should get while the front is disassembled? I did also find the rear toe tool if a shop I find doesn't have it. Was planning new control arms, found out the hard way that precision control arms are shorter than OE, and poly bushings, but I forget my grease up north.

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Old 03-10-2017, 09:36 PM   #20
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Default Re: Meds Garage Project

I'm very interested to see your end results. Do you have the poly bushing kit installed yet? I have poly bushings and torque strut bushings in my sl1 and can say that it made a world of difference in high speed cornering. Seeing this makes me want a strut bar
Low end torque on the SOHC is even worse with no cat and a intake. However I have successfully towed 4000 pound trailers behind my SL1. I will see if I can find the pic I took of it with a 16 foot speedboat behind it

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