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Old 07-31-2015, 10:29 PM   #21
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Default Re: BEWARE BCM replacement - Can't program used part

Green headlamp flickering; that's the daytime running light indicator when headlights are left in auto position. My personal experience with this wasn't answered until I decided to replace 10 year old low beam lamps. One was found to have a split element that rewelded itself so I presume the times the drls were blinking at me, my guess is the element was splitting, breaking the circuit and rejoining itself while the drl indicator was trying to tell me that one of my low beam lamps were failing. Both low beams always worked and never died in nighttime driving. It's difficult to observe them during the day unless deliberately checking against someone's rear trunk or bumper reflection. I would guess if the split element did separate then, in theory, both lamps would blink to anyone looking (like a flash to pass signal)....... No one ever stopped me to mention this. Since this was not frequent and wasn't apparent in nighttime driving, I didn't do anything more than check for both lights during daytime driving. Nighttime would be obvious. Once both lamps were replaced, the drl indicator never flashed again.

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Old 08-07-2015, 08:10 PM   #22
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Default Re: BEWARE BCM replacement - Can't program used part

it was indeed a low beam headlamp. the night I got the car back I noticed one side was out and after replacing it the next day the green light did not flicker anymore. I never knew that feature existed, to let the driver know a headlamp issue.

the mileage is also working properly.

of course when one thing is fixed theres always something else...somehow my driver front and passenger rear tires all of a sudden both have small rips in the sidewalls so it looks like time for new tires...and somehow going to try and figure out how to get my a/c working (theres a small leak somewhere, adding freeon usually lasts about 6 months) to battle this 100 degree Louisiana heat

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Old 08-07-2015, 09:13 PM   #23
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Default Re: BEWARE BCM replacement - Can't program used part

Well, since you already threw money away on refilling your leaking a/c system, perhaps it's time to try a better method with a reusable tool, an inexpensive UV blacklight. Every Saturn with r134a has dye to glow under UV light illumination when a system is damaged resulting in a leak. 98% of all vehicle a/c systems are caused by a leak from wear and tear. Refrigerant gas is invisible so oil and dye leak out to mark the leak area - easily found with a UV light. No refrigerant refilling is needed. Find the source of the leak then decide whether or not you can replace parts and continue or allow a repair shop to perform the technical a/c work; evacuation, final leak testing and refilling the system. Performing half the work can save as much as 50% or more of total repair costs, finding the leak and replacing parts with regular tools.

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Old 08-28-2015, 09:07 PM   #24
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Default Re: BEWARE BCM replacement - Can't program used part

as always thanks for the great help.

so i got a kit with 2 cans with dye in them and it came with a gauge/hose and uv light.

upon the engine running and ac at max, the gauge struggles to fit into the low compression port and when i can get it in it reads over 100psi (i tried it on another car and it works fine showing 35 psi so the kit is not defective).

its seem the pressure is so high because my compressor is not kicking on. i tried using the uv light and i didn't really see anything leaking except for right by the port when i initially tried to get some freon in (not sure if any got in, when i disconnected the can it was leaking out of the can and a little bit around the port)./.

so either my compressor is not kicking on because i am bone dry on freon or there is a compressor/clutch coil issue i am assuming? i am definitely an ameteur in regards to the ac system, where do i go from here?

im assuming that if the compressor comes on, the pressure on the gauge should go way down with the can connected if everything else is in working order (and this in turn would allow the freon to go in?).

is there any additional info i can gain by checking the high pressure port with a rental tool from autozone?

thanks again for all the help.

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Old 08-28-2015, 10:41 PM   #25
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Default Re: BEWARE BCM replacement - Can't program used part

If you made an honest effort to thoroughly inspect the entire a/c system plumbing and cannot find any trace of dye anywhere, you may be in the 2% of owners with only a few unusual failures; a blown clutch coil, a damaged compressor ot thermal expansion valve.

With 100 psi on a system that isn't running, in hot Louisiana, the pressure is considered normal - you're seeing static pressure where a system reflects the local ambient temperature. If its 85F outside, a static system pressure can show approximately 85 psi. 95F, 95 psi. This is static pressure - a/c not turned on. As soon as the compressor is powered up, pressures change immediately and will vary in proportion to engine rpm. Vehicle refrigeration is a little more complicated due to varying engine rpm that has a direct effect on operating pressures. This is on top of many not familiar with basic refrigeration. Please do not try refilling this system.

When a/c is turned on, do you see and hear the radiator cooling fan running or not? This question must be answered to proceed in the right direction.

If yes, disconnect the compressor connection and measure the connector wor 12 volts. Is 12 volts on the connector or not? If 12v is on the connector, the compressor clutch coil is blown - a thermal fuse protects the car's electrical system if the coil overheats or a dead short occurs in the clutch coil.

Without familiarity with refrigeration and vehicle electrical circuits, the need for refrigeration gauges will not help at this point. Measuring pressures is only one way to troubleshoot problems. Gauges are not needed yet.

Try not to force quick couplers on a/c fittings. Aluminum tubing is very soft and bends easily. Quick couplers require a little finesse; using one hand to have the quick coupler in the palm of your hand while using fingers to pull back the spring loaded circular handle retracts the ball mechanism to allow the coupler to slide on to the low or high side service valve. The other hand can help hold the service valve tubing to prevent bending the whole line while pressing the coupler on. When done correctly, the coupler will slide on easily, releasing the locking ring should engage and lock the coupler to the fitting. When there's pressure in a system, this pressure is trying to blow out against the coupler - the feeling you felt trying to couple the gauge connector to the service valve. With pressure in a system, more force is needed to press the quick coupler on before it engages and locks into place.

Last edited by fdryer; 08-28-2015 at 10:51 PM..

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Old 08-30-2015, 07:08 PM   #26
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Default Re: BEWARE BCM replacement - Can't program used part

radiator/cooling fan is NOT running or moving (if we are indeed talking about the one right behind the grill in the front) when the ac is turned on.

the compressor is still not coming on, the belt is moving around the pulley near the compressor but the inner pulley/circle looking object with the 3 bits in a triangular shape is not moving

i felt the lines going to the dash, the large low pressure port line feels neither hot or cold, the line with the high pressure port that leads to the dash feels warm/hot to the touch, not sure if any of that info helps

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Old 08-30-2015, 09:29 PM   #27
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Default Re: BEWARE BCM replacement - Can't program used part

The radiator fan not turning on when a/c is turned on means a control issue. This isn't a low refrigerant problem when low side static pressure is 100 psi. Are you sure you're seeing 100 psi and not 10 psi?

No cooling fan running (radiator) when a/c is turned on usually means one of two possibilities; loss of refrigerant (static pressures below approximately 40 psi) or a blown a/c fuse. Loss of refrigerant is detected by a pressure sensor to sends a signal to the pcm disabling power to the compressor as well as not turning on the radiator fan. This pressure sensor protects the compressor from damage if allowed to run on low refrigerant levels. If you are seeing 100 psi on the low side, the pressure sensor did not detect lost refrigerant and did not disable compressor or fan power.

Did you check for a blown a/c fuse?

Last edited by fdryer; 08-30-2015 at 09:40 PM..

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Old 08-30-2015, 09:56 PM   #28
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Default Re: BEWARE BCM replacement - Can't program used part

yes i am certain it was 100 psi. the needle on the gauge swung all the way to the right when i could actually get it to stay all the way locked onto the port.

i hope it could be something as simple as a blown fuse. i will def check when i get off work tomorrow afternoon.

its been about 2 years since the ac has blown cold air. i always just dealt with it and kept the windows rolled down. sometimes it seems the air being blown is actually "hot" air but its hard to tell. i was actually hoping that this was a possible bcm-related problem but unfortunately when i got the new one last month it didn't solve that.

Another side note, a long time ago it seemed upon shutting the car off that the cooling fan would still be running (im pretty sure this is normal). However, in the last say 3 or 4 years it seems like I've almost never heard it running when i shut the car off (is this because i wasn't/don't use the ac?)...when i got my car back from the gm dealership last month after getting the bcm programmed, the guy had my car running with the ac on max -- not blowing cold air but not blowing super hot air either. i left it hoping that while driving maybe the new bcm would magically fix my ac problem (as i stated in the above paragraph). when i got home and shut the car off, i was surprised the cooling fan was still running. i haven't seen that happen again since however.

the blower and heater work fine. also when i press the ac button inside the car, i do hear a faint noise/click (relay?) or at least a noise indicating there is more of a strain on the engine.

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Old 09-01-2015, 05:29 PM   #29
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Default Re: BEWARE BCM replacement - Can't program used part

i switched out the fuse, no luck

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Old 09-01-2015, 06:28 PM   #30
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Default Re: BEWARE BCM replacement - Can't program used part

How are you at using a multimeter to measure voltages using a wiring diagram?
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Old 09-01-2015, 08:30 PM   #31
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Default Re: BEWARE BCM replacement - Can't program used part

tbh, wiring diagrams look foreign to me.

id really have to do some learning/research about dissecting a wiring schematic.

i have a basic understanding of how to actually use a multi/volt/ohm meter but just looking at that picture i would have no idea where to begin

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Old 09-01-2015, 09:19 PM   #32
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Default Re: BEWARE BCM replacement - Can't program used part

If are familiar with multimeters, try measuring voltages like 12 volts anywhere. With most mm's, polarity doesn't matter - the electronics simply measures DC voltages and if the probes are reversed, the display will show a '-' (minus/negative) sign without damage to the mm. With DC voltages, you're only concern is actual voltage, not polarity.

Can you read/use a gps navigation device? If you can then electrical wiring diagrams are nothing more than a map of general wiring with labeling for wire color, connector names, terminal/pin numbering and some other info. Nothing different than learning to read maps and then adapting to electronic maps.. With wiring, the a/c system, in this case, is the specific terrain with wiring drawings showing the electrical map to know where electricity flows. I edited this wiring map to separate the left from right side; left side is where you can correlate probing with the mm using the red positive lead (negative grounded to chassis or engine block). I labeled two places with arrows pointing where 12v leads from the fuse and thru the a/c relay. The right side shows where you control the hvac panel; in this case, pressing the a/c button to turn on a/c as a command signal sent to the body control module, sending an 'a/c request' signal to the pcm. The pcm, when all sensors are fulfilled to allow a/c operation, sends a signal to power the a/c relay that closes a set of electrical contacts to send 12v power to the compressor. Presuming the a/c button is pressed to turn on a/c, the left side of the wiring diagram is used to check how far the 12 volts goes from the a/c fuse to reach and power the compressor clutch coil. Right side drawing can be considered command and control, left side the actual voltage from the fuse to power the compressor thru a relay set of electrical contacts and wiring. It may help to start where 'B+' is labeled at the top left side of the drawing. This is just the HOT side of battery positive. One side of the fuse should have 12 volts and measuring for 12v on the disconnected compressor power wires should show 12v as you follow the drawing/map flow.

One trick to advanced troubleshooting; removing the relay and carefully locating the pin out numbering on the relay to correlate with the relay terminal. Using a short wire jumper across relay terminals 30 and 87 will bypass the internal relay contacts to send 12 volts directly to the compressor. This should either power the compressor immediately (regardless of ignition switch position or engine running) with a distinctive click as the clutch engages the pulley or nothing. Measuring for 12v on the compressor connector is another way to check for power using the wire jumper across the relay terminals.
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Old 11-02-2017, 03:19 AM   #33
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Default Re: BEWARE BCM replacement - Can't program used part

Quote:
Originally Posted by pslebow View Post
Thanks for the update but I believe we may be both correct. According to a GM forum site, BCM's prior to about 2003 were EPROM programmed with the vehicle VIN and therefore not reprogrammable. Also, from what I've read, its not just the Passlock feature that needs to be synchronized (easily done with the sequence shown on this forum) with your ignition module but all modules (BCM, ECM, etc) in the car are VIN synchronized as well. If one unit has the wrong VIN it generates an error and a no-start. The VIN can be programmed into a new replacement part but not the original EPROM. So it may work in a Saturn VUE but not a 2001 L200.

I even called the shop the used-parts dealer claimed they used all the time to program used BCM's and he said no way for that car.

I would love to have it done but there's no one in my area willing to do it. If you know of a shop that will do it, please let me know.
everyone keeps acting like the eprom can not be reprogrammed however it can be done simply with the data sheet on the ic from motorola

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Old 11-02-2017, 01:15 PM   #34
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Default Re: BEWARE BCM replacement - Can't program used part

csf2618, there's programming and there's programming. Your suggestion, if using the data sheet for the Motorola chip presumes the person is familiar with chip programming with the chip removed and plugged into a chip socket with cabling to a pc or equipment for custom programming. GM programming using their proprietary scantool allows express programming for new blank BCMs for dealer networks for less complication for techs to easily read and follow screen prompts. If I'm not mistaken, I believe you're mixing apples and oranges here. Although I was familiar with chip erasing and programming years ago, I don't know if what you're describing is the same, using Motorola info for bare programming adapted into GM's scantool with their app to make things easier. Writing code and using firmware for copying and pasting info into eeproms may be two different applications with one requiring expertise in writing codes and the other simply following screen prompts to 'Change VIN' or 'Input mileage'.

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