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Old 07-02-2013, 12:24 PM   #21
Scouser
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1994 SL1
Default Re: 94 SL1 Vacuum Specifications

Aw crap! No change.

I drove it about a mile and a half and I got a check engine light. Got back to the house and pulled the code:

15 - CTS Circuit - Temperature Out of Range Low.

Seriously?!

I thought we'de been through this crap already. I wonder if I bent or broke one/both of the pins in the CTS when I was checking the resistance previously. It's going to be frustrating and embarrassing if I did. Well, I'm going to go get a new one and change it out now, and see what happens.

Stay tuned...

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Old 07-02-2013, 01:47 PM   #22
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1994 SL1
Default Re: 94 SL1 Vacuum Specifications

OK, so I need to be more careful when messing around with these delicate sensors. It turned out that I did bend one of the terminals in the CTS. I replaced that for $12 and ran the car around the block again. At least now I know there is a connection between the CTS and the PCM.

There was no check engine light this time, but the motor still won't idle or run worth a crap. It idels very rough and when I put my foot on the gas it takes a while to build up the revs. It doesn't seem want to run anywhere but between 1500 and 2500 RPM. And even then it's not smooth.

I needed a break for a while, so I disconnected the battery and came in the house to let the engine and my blood pressure settle.

So, here are the parts I have replaced/tested so far.

Replaced:
Head Gasket
Exhaust Manifold Gasket
Exhaust Gasket
Inlet Manifold Gasket
Throttle Body Gasket
Timing Chain
Spark Plugs & Filters (Leads are about a year old)
Valve Guide Seals
Serpentine Belt Tensioner
Coolant Temperatire Sensor
Throttle Position Sensor
Fuel Injector
Fuel Pressure Regulator Diaphragm
Various vacuum hoses

Tested:
MAP Sensor (replaced with new, then put old one back on)
O2 Sensor (Tested good)
Air Temperatire Sensor (Tested good)

I'm really stuck now. Any more ideas?

Thanks.

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Old 07-02-2013, 02:46 PM   #23
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1994 SL1
Default Re: 94 SL1 Vacuum Specifications

I figured that the plugs would be fouled since the mixture is so rich, so I decided to pull them out to check/clean. To my surprise #4 was spotless. I mean too clean. It didn't look like it had been in a combustion chamber - it was so clean. I thought it might have been a dud. After all I had just replaced them all after the head gasket job. I pulled the other 3 plugs and they all looked dirty to one degree or another. I checked the cap for #4 and noticed that the connector that connects to the top of the plug was way down in there.

I cut about 1/2 an inch off the cap, cleaned the plugs and popped them back in. Then I started the engine again. Still the same, so I pulled the plug from #4, put it in the cap and started the engine again. It was generating a good spark.

Now I'm second guessing myself on everything. I'm wondering if the valves in #4 aren't bad. God I hope that isn't the problem. It's taken me a months worth of weekend to get to this point. I hope it's all not for nothing.

I think my neighbor has a compression tester. I've never used one before. I'll go see if I can get it and figure out how to use it.

What kind of pressure should I see in a good combustion chamber?

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Old 07-02-2013, 03:54 PM   #24
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Default Re: 94 SL1 Vacuum Specifications

Even with only 128k miles on the engine, and no change in running with parts listed, compression should be close to 180 psi. A dry test is done with the fuel pump fuse removed (to prevent injecting fuel) and the starter run until the pressure gauge needle stops moving, somewhere around 10 revolutions. Check each cylinder then pour or squirt a tablespoon of motor oil into each cylinder and check compression again - this is the wet test, oil sealing the top compression ring. If valves aren't burned and rings are in good condition, compression should rise by 10-30 points. Burned valves would show very low compression, wet or dry. Worn piston rings, low compression dry, higher compression wet. When done, replace the fuel pump fuse.

Was the O2 sensor ever removed for testing a blocked exhaust system?

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Old 07-02-2013, 03:56 PM   #25
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Default Re: 94 SL1 Vacuum Specifications

Found a compression test tutorial on Youtube by Eric the Car Guy.

Dry test numbers came out this way:
Cylnder 1 197
Cylnder 2 192
Cylnder 3 205
Cylnder 4 0000000000000000000

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XlJuxpeTats

This is one sad story... At least I still have my sense of humor.

The cylinder walls looked fine when I had the head off. I was anally retentively careful when I was putting the new timing chain on too. I veriffied the timing marks were lined up over and over again before I bolted everything back together.

This has to be valves doesn't it?
Could sitting with a shot head gasket for a couple of months caused the valves seats to corrode that bad?

Thanks.

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Old 07-02-2013, 05:06 PM   #26
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Default Re: 94 SL1 Vacuum Specifications

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scouser View Post
......Dry test numbers came out this way:
Cylnder 1 197
Cylnder 2 192
Cylnder 3 205
Cylnder 4 0000000000000000000

This is one sad story... At least I still have my sense of humor.

The cylinder walls looked fine when I had the head off. I was anally retentively careful when I was putting the new timing chain on too. I veriffied the timing marks were lined up over and over again before I bolted everything back together.

This has to be valves doesn't it?

Could sitting with a shot head gasket for a couple of months caused the valves seats to corrode that bad?.....
Any engine sitting for awhile shouldn't suffer anything more than some interior corrosion - most internal parts are already oiled and good oil won't drain off to expose steel to oxidation. Its anyone's guess if a blown head gasket allowed coolant to corrode valves/seats. Exposure to air tends to corrode exposed, uncoated steel. A water pump immersed in coolant doesn't corrode due to air purged out and anti corrosion additives in anti-freeze to prolong cooling system parts.

A wet test is needed to make any determination.

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Old 07-02-2013, 05:33 PM   #27
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Default Re: 94 SL1 Vacuum Specifications

Quote:
Originally Posted by fdryer View Post
Any engine sitting for awhile shouldn't suffer anything more than some interior corrosion - most internal parts are already oiled and good oil won't drain off to expose steel to oxidation. Its anyone's guess if a blown head gasket allowed coolant to corrode valves/seats. Exposure to air tends to corrode exposed, uncoated steel. A water pump immersed in coolant doesn't corrode due to air purged out and anti corrosion additives in anti-freeze to prolong cooling system parts.

A wet test is needed to make any determination.
I just ran a wet test on cylinder 4. It came out to a big fat zero too.

I suspect I may have bent the valves when I was lining up the timing marks. The head and block were very dirty so I cleaned them very throughly. When I was cleaning each combustion chamber I rotated the cam so the valves would be closed. I could not hold the head firmly enough to rotate the timing mark back to the top when I was done, so I put the head back on and put a couple bolts in it to hold it while I was turning the cam. I had moved the crank too so I could clean the top of the pistons, so I had to put that back to TDC. I think this is were I made an expensive mistake.

I think I will have to pull head again to verify. You know how much fun taht can be huh?

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Old 07-03-2013, 01:47 PM   #28
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Default Re: 94 SL1 Vacuum Specifications

Woohoo! I found the problem, and it's not nearly as bad as I thought.

One thing I never mentioned earlier was how dirty this engine was on the inside. I haven't cracked open a lot of engines - maybe 10 including motorcycle engines when I was a teen. Anyway, this was the dirtiest engine I had ever seen.

When I pulled the head, I could see that exhaust valve on #4 would not close all the way. I suspected the worst and took it out to get a better look. It was gunked-up, but looked straight, so I cleaned it, oiled it up and put it back in. There was a little resistance when it hit the spot it was stuck previously, but once I worked it back and forth a couple of times it became smooth as silk.

I'm going to clean, lube and make sure all the other valves are moving freely and then put everything back together again. I aint taking this thing apart again.

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Old 07-03-2013, 01:58 PM   #29
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Default Re: 94 SL1 Vacuum Specifications

No, say it ain't so!? Sticking valve guide preventing free valve movement? If that was all it was then oil wasn't gettin' to the valve guide? Hopefully you found it, just make sure the unstuck valve seats clean onto its seat.

This may turn out to be a nice repair without visiting a machine shop. Please update results, ok?

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Old 07-03-2013, 02:08 PM   #30
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Default Re: 94 SL1 Vacuum Specifications

Will do.

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Old 07-04-2013, 11:52 PM   #31
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Default Re: 94 SL1 Vacuum Specifications

Happy 4th of July to me!

Once I cleaned all the valve stems and put everything back together it ran like a top. It even seems to have a little more power now than it did before I parked it. Maybe the new sensors and other odds and ends I changed in the hunt for rough idling and runnig issue, (and the new headgasket of course) helped regain a few horse power that had been lost over the years.

Lessons learned then:
1) When replacing a head gasket on a dirty engine, go ahead and pull the valves and clean them thoroughly.
2) Do a compresssion test before you put the plugs in, to make sure you didn't screw something up.
3) Don't just start replacing stuff hoping to fix a problem. Ask for expert help. There are a bunch of really smart, knowledgable, helpful, friendly folk out there just looking to lend a hand.

Thanks everyone for your help on this issue. I learned a lot. Hopefully, my heartache in troubleshooting this issue will save someone else the trouble.

Thanks again all, and Happy 4th of July to you!

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