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Old 08-19-2012, 03:30 PM   #1
bcdzt5
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1999 SC2
Default Crank bolt removal (no impact wrench required)

This breaker bar positioning technique safely develops massive bolt-freeing torque. I tried following the service manual's recommendation of shoving some wood between the pulley spokes and the front cover, but had no luck. The wood kept shearing!

Pros:
- no muscle required
- can be performed out-of-vehicle w/o a second set of hands
- can be performed without starter
- won't risk damaging the front cover
- Doesn't require industrial compressor or 1/2" air-impact wrench
- 500ft/lbs+ easily developed, especially if coupled with a cheap come-along
- Relatively safe!

Cons:
- requires about 15 bucks of hardware and one decent breaker bar (which can be bought super cheap off Amazon)

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File Type: jpg N4WhY.jpg (108.9 KB, 98 views)

Last edited by bcdzt5; 08-19-2012 at 03:36 PM..

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Old 08-19-2012, 03:37 PM   #2
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Default Re: Crank bolt removal (no impact wrench required)

That crank bolt isn't on any tighter then axle nuts, and in some cases is far looser. Never saw the need for the starter bump trick with it, nor the need for an impact wrench.

Your method does look like the safest for personal safety, other then using a high powered impact, but if you over tighten the U-Bolts you risk breaking the crank pulley.

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Old 08-19-2012, 03:40 PM   #3
bcdzt5
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Default Re: Crank bolt removal (no impact wrench required)

Normally a breaker bar could break this bolt without drama.

My crank bolt was re-installed by a gorilla. ...who had access to powertools.

The u-bolt's nuts are only meant to be tightened finger tight.

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Old 08-19-2012, 03:57 PM   #4
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Default Re: Crank bolt removal (no impact wrench required)

Mine came off with a long length of pipe, and a small piece of metal in one of the crank pulley spokes, though you risk deforming the oil pan, etc.

With a starter bump, you risk damaging the starter motor clutch/gear. I absolutely DESTROYED the starter I installed on my '01 SL2 last year when I accidentally hydrolocked the cylinders with some MMO. Went *CRUNCH* RRRRRRRRRRRREEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEeeeeeeerrrrrr chugida crunch crunch crunch! Sounded like a malt mixer mixing pebbles.

The method in this pic looks great, though! Won't destroy the starter or the oil pan.

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Old 08-19-2012, 04:31 PM   #5
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Default Re: Crank bolt removal (no impact wrench required)

Quote:
Originally Posted by bcdzt5 View Post
Normally a breaker bar could break this bolt without drama.

My crank bolt was re-installed by a gorilla. ...who had access to powertools.

The u-bolt's nuts are only meant to be tightened finger tight.
That works if you pull the engine...

You are probably not aware but the crank bolt washer has a front and back side as it is ever so slightly dished. Correct installation is convex side out.

A valve wrench works very well to hold the pulley when using a breaker bar if you can find one.

Last edited by OldNuc; 08-19-2012 at 04:45 PM..

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Old 08-19-2012, 06:04 PM   #6
PlasticCarsRock
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Default Re: Crank bolt removal (no impact wrench required)

That's a good idea.

Nothing beats an impact wrench, though. A good 1/2" impact wrench will take them off with little trouble, and while they're not cheap ($150-$275 for a good model from a name brand), they're really good to have for things like this.

Even my cordless (18V) Dewalt impact wrench will take off crank pulleys with a fresh battery and 10-20 seconds of impacting... one of the best $100 I've ever spent (already had batteries and a charger). It's rated (very conservatively) at 300 ft lbs, but it outperforms my 700-and-someodd ft lbs IR gun in the junkyard (no air supply).

...
High compression build: .033" shaved/ported head, flat-faced valves; gen3 rods, pistons, tie-plate; OE header, custom CAI, SDA street cams with adjustable sprockets, WBO2, SAFCII, LSD. ASE A1-A8+L1

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Old 08-20-2012, 01:53 AM   #7
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Default Re: Crank bolt removal (no impact wrench required)

I just did my timing chain and that bolt was a real sucker, let me tell you! After twisting a 14" X 1/2" drive extension I had borrowed, I went to Harbor Freight and bellied up to buy an electric impact wrench they had on sale for $49. It zipped the bolt out in about two seconds! That's not an exaggeration either.

I used a crow bar between the spokes and up against an oil pan bolt head. That way there was little or no pressure on the pan lip, since the force was tangential.

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Old 08-20-2012, 01:23 PM   #8
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Default Re: Crank bolt removal (no impact wrench required)

Quote:
Originally Posted by dtuuri View Post
I just did my timing chain and that bolt was a real sucker, let me tell you! After twisting a 14" X 1/2" drive extension I had borrowed, I went to Harbor Freight and bellied up to buy an electric impact wrench they had on sale for $49.
Some can be hard. My 650ft/lb impact wrench alone wouldn't release mine. So I used a 5 foot long piece of gas pipe and lifted the front of the car up on the crank bolt (i.e. the pipe was on a wrench on the bolt). Then I bounced the car up and down with the pipe and was able to loosen it enough that the impact wrench worked it off.

When I was young and poor I couldn't get the transmission fluid plug bolt off my Celica. So I put a wrench on it and put a jack under the wrench. I then lifted the car up with the jack and jumped up on the car a few times. When I broke I knew either the bolt was loose or something was destroyed on the car.

-Robert

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Old 08-21-2012, 02:18 PM   #9
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Default Re: Crank bolt removal (no impact wrench required)

Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertGary1 View Post
My 650ft/lb impact wrench alone wouldn't release mine. So I used a 5 foot long piece of gas pipe and lifted the front of the car up on the crank bolt (i.e. the pipe was on a wrench on the bolt).

Then I bounced the car up and down with the pipe and was able to loosen it enough that the impact wrench worked it off.
You know, I got the feeling I had manually loosened that thing and the impact wrench got all the credit too. I was so afraid that breaker bar was going to self-destruct and send sharpnel into my eyes--I put a towel over the hinge joint. That's when I decided, "Enough!", and went to HF.

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