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Old 06-14-2012, 08:33 AM   #1
dsquare86
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2002 SL1
2001 SL2
Default Clutch Replacement Checklist

Ok, looking for some info and some suggestions on this topic. The obvious items needed for this are:

Clutch Disc
Pressure Plate
Throwout Bearing
New Hydraulics (Master & Slave)
Resurface Flywheel

I was mainly wondering on the items above if it is recommended OEM or will aftermarket do. Obviously the hydraulics are going to be OEM. For OEM parts can you supply part numbers? Also, any tips for completing this project?

Thanks in advance.

...
Derek
2002 Saturn SL1 SOHC 5 Speed.
2001 Saturn SL2 DOHC 5 Speed - Retired.

Last edited by dsquare86; 06-14-2012 at 08:46 AM..

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Old 06-14-2012, 08:48 AM   #2
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Default Re: Clutch Replacement Checklist

I have done two S-series clutched in the last 18 months. Here's my thoughts.

>Go with a Luk clutch (original). I got a good deal on one at pep boyz using an online coupon. ~$130.
>The 2nd gen pressure plate/disk is about $100 cheaper and has a better reputation. Mine worked fine installed in an '02 SL1.
>Replace the hydros to match whatever year pressure plate you use.
>Check price on having flywheel resurfaced well in advance. I found that I was better off just buying a new one from AAP. Using the online discount made it a pretty cheap option. ~$45 IIRC. By the time I drove accross town twic and paid a machine shop ~$30, the new one is a better deal.
>If you decide to resurface your flywheel, make sure there are NO heat cracks or burn marks visable on the clutch surface. That will surely lead to clutch chatter or vibration.

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Old 06-14-2012, 11:13 AM   #3
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Default Re: Clutch Replacement Checklist

doing a clutch on these cars is fair easy. ive done many of them. i used to work at the dealer in vegas before they closed. anyhow its easy. write me a PM if u have questions and i can write you pretty much a step by step way to do it. i got so good at it i could pull a tranny in 45 mins. no air tools.

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Old 06-14-2012, 01:51 PM   #4
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Default Re: Clutch Replacement Checklist

I recently replaced my clutch using this method
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=23753#
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...h+replacement#

What I did differently was to also disconnect LCA and steering linkage from the passenger side to facilitate re installation of the axle(intermediate shaft?). I also did not change out the flywheel as it was in good condition.

...
1997 SL1
5 speed manual
346,000 mi.+

Last edited by code1bob; 06-14-2012 at 02:01 PM.. Reason: added 2nd link

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Old 06-14-2012, 02:53 PM   #5
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Default Re: Clutch Replacement Checklist

Quote:
Originally Posted by caveeagle View Post
I have done two S-series clutched in the last 18 months. Here's my thoughts.

>Go with a Luk clutch (original). I got a good deal on one at pep boyz using an online coupon. ~$130.
>The 2nd gen pressure plate/disk is about $100 cheaper and has a better reputation. Mine worked fine installed in an '02 SL1.
>Replace the hydros to match whatever year pressure plate you use.
>Check price on having flywheel resurfaced well in advance. I found that I was better off just buying a new one from AAP. Using the online discount made it a pretty cheap option. ~$45 IIRC. By the time I drove accross town twic and paid a machine shop ~$30, the new one is a better deal.
>If you decide to resurface your flywheel, make sure there are NO heat cracks or burn marks visable on the clutch surface. That will surely lead to clutch chatter or vibration.

Could you elaborate on the pressure plat from the 2nd gen? Did you just buy the clutch kit for the 2nd gen? Which year?

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Old 06-14-2012, 03:06 PM   #6
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Default Re: Clutch Replacement Checklist

Quote:
Originally Posted by caveeagle View Post
I have done two S-series clutched in the last 18 months. Here's my thoughts.

>Go with a Luk clutch (original). I got a good deal on one at pep boyz using an online coupon. ~$130.
>The 2nd gen pressure plate/disk is about $100 cheaper and has a better reputation. Mine worked fine installed in an '02 SL1.
>Replace the hydros to match whatever year pressure plate you use.
>Check price on having flywheel resurfaced well in advance. I found that I was better off just buying a new one from AAP. Using the online discount made it a pretty cheap option. ~$45 IIRC. By the time I drove accross town twic and paid a machine shop ~$30, the new one is a better deal.
>If you decide to resurface your flywheel, make sure there are NO heat cracks or burn marks visable on the clutch surface. That will surely lead to clutch chatter or vibration.
When having the flywheel resurfaced you punch the 3 locating pins out from teh back and hang onto them, do not send to the shop.

The hydraulics have to match the cars due to a difference in gen-1-2 or gen-3 mounting of the master cylinder. Other than that the stroke is identical.

Other than those clarifications I agree with what is quoted above. Do not buy a cheap no name clutch kit, buy genuine LUK. This is the correct early part number and part, http://www.ebay.com/itm/LUK-GENUINE-...item256ba8e76f

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Old 06-14-2012, 03:07 PM   #7
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Default Re: Clutch Replacement Checklist

Quote:
Originally Posted by justanotherjpr View Post
Could you elaborate on the pressure plat from the 2nd gen? Did you just buy the clutch kit for the 2nd gen? Which year?
You buy the kit that I posted above.

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Old 06-14-2012, 03:25 PM   #8
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Default Re: Clutch Replacement Checklist

Also the instructions mention replacing the shift tower gasket. I can't seem to find this gasket on RockAuto - does anyone have a source or do you use RTV?

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Old 06-14-2012, 03:42 PM   #9
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Default Re: Clutch Replacement Checklist

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldNuc View Post
You buy the kit that I posted above.
Can you elaborate why the one for the 99 is better?

So one with a 2000 Saturn SOHC should buy the LUK listed here:
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/199...lutch_kit.html

and not the LUK listed here:
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200...lutch_kit.html

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Old 06-14-2012, 05:21 PM   #10
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Default Re: Clutch Replacement Checklist

Quote:
The hydraulics have to match the cars due to a difference in gen-1-2 or gen-3 mounting of the master cylinder
OldNuc, please expand upon this. When I was doing the clutch on my '02, I thought the Gen2 hydros would fit into a Gen3 body.

You may be correct, its just my memory that this would work. FWIW.

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Old 06-14-2012, 05:35 PM   #11
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Default Re: Clutch Replacement Checklist

Quote:
Can you elaborate why the one for the 99 is better?
If you look up the gen3 clutch ('00-'02) on the partsgeek site, you will see the three little yellow springs that are around the diaphram. These were engineered into the later models to give smoother & easier clutch action. The popular consensus is that it is not worth the extra money.

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Old 06-14-2012, 05:46 PM   #12
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Default Re: Clutch Replacement Checklist

Quote:
Originally Posted by justanotherjpr View Post
Also the instructions mention replacing the shift tower gasket. I can't seem to find this gasket on RockAuto - does anyone have a source or do you use RTV?
Dealer item. GASKET-SHFT CONT HSG(shift tower gasket) 21001244. this part number is the same for 91-02, $7.08


Z 5-SPEED MANUAL TRANSAXLE SHIFTER FORKS & CONTROL HOUSING(MP2,MP3); (GASKET,SHFT CONT HSG. Required: 01
For: Z 5-SPD M/TRANS(MP2),(MP3) (1991-2002) (1991 - 2002). )

...
1997 SL1
5 speed manual
346,000 mi.+

Last edited by code1bob; 06-14-2012 at 05:48 PM.. Reason: add price

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Old 06-14-2012, 06:23 PM   #13
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Default Re: Clutch Replacement Checklist

Quote:
Originally Posted by caveeagle View Post
OldNuc, please expand upon this. When I was doing the clutch on my '02, I thought the Gen2 hydros would fit into a Gen3 body.

You may be correct, its just my memory that this would work. FWIW.
The gen-3 is remote MC reservoir and the earlier one is attached. They both have identical stroke so there is not much point in changing the reservoir location.

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Old 06-14-2012, 06:31 PM   #14
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Default Re: Clutch Replacement Checklist

Partsgeek is NOT selling the correct 91-99 clutch assembly. The LUK part number for the 91-99 Saturn clutch kit is 04-115. There are several supposedly correct clutch assemblies that are supposed to function, they may or may not depending. Use the 04-115 and they function.

No idea why someone thinks you should be changing the tower gasket. If it is not leaking then leave it alone.

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Old 06-14-2012, 10:51 PM   #15
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Default Re: Clutch Replacement Checklist

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldNuc View Post
No idea why someone thinks you should be changing the tower gasket. If it is not leaking then leave it alone.
Ssicarman recommends removing the shift tower so you have more room to shove the trans into the wheel well area. You may get by with just removing backup light switch. I removed the shift tower as per the “how-to”. It may work without removing the shift tower but it took a week to get the gasket so you may want to spend the $7.08 plus tax and have it on hand in case you need it.

This is my 4th clutch. The original lasted 185,000, the 2nd lasted 66,000 miles (it was a LuK).when the third clutch was installed the mechanic said the previous clutch wasn’t installed correctly (he didn’t elaborate and I did not ask). The 3rd clutch was also a LuK and lasted 90,000 miles. This time I installed the clutch myself and used a Sachs kit. Sachs is a German company. The parts were identified as manufactured in Korea and Mexico; I did not notice where the release bearing was made. 95% of the miles on this car are hiway miles. I retired recently and now all mileage will be in town driving.

On clutch number 2 the springs in the disc failed, on number 3 the pressure plate was the failure.

With 341,000 miles on this vehicle I did not think it was worth paying a mechanic $675 to R&R the clutch so I did it myself. It took about 9 hrs. spread over three days. I did not hurry and it could have been done in much less time. The flywheel looked like new so I cleaned it and scuffed it up with my DeWalt sander.

I used a Sachs kit because it on the shelf at the local flaps, $135, and only 5 minutes from the house. Time will tell if the quality is there. It may be a good idea to buy OEM from the dealer.

Bob

...
1997 SL1
5 speed manual
346,000 mi.+

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Old 06-14-2012, 11:54 PM   #16
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Default Re: Clutch Replacement Checklist

Well, if you are going to do the clutch in place then you also need a set of alignment pins to slip into the top pair of mounting holes or reassembly is nasty. It is much simpler to pull the entire power train.

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Old 06-15-2012, 12:04 AM   #17
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Default Re: Clutch Replacement Checklist

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldNuc View Post
Well, if you are going to do the clutch in place then you also need a set of alignment pins to slip into the top pair of mounting holes or reassembly is nasty. It is much simpler to pull the entire power train.
You are right getting the trans mated back onto the engine was the worst part. A couple of pins made of bolts with the heads cut off would have made it easier. But I don't think it took more than 15-20 minutes of trying different angles to get it mated up.

...
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Old 06-15-2012, 12:11 AM   #18
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Default Re: Clutch Replacement Checklist

There are no dealers anymore and if you order one from the remaining OEM suppliers you will get the LUK parts that make the 4-115 kit. Not everything that LUK makes that fits a Saturn is the OEM part. Not removing and surfacing the flywheel is a good way to have an early failure of the clutch system. You can not tell the amount of wear and unevenness unless you pull it out and actually check it.

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Old 06-15-2012, 12:26 AM   #19
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Default Re: Clutch Replacement Checklist

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldNuc View Post
You can not tell the amount of wear and unevenness unless you pull it out and actually check it.
You are correct. This car probably won't get more than 3-4,000 per year on it now so I figured it was worth the chance. Right now it is shifting as smooth as when it was new. like I said time will tell.

Could you put a straight edge up to it and check flatness with a feeler gage and a light?

...
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Old 06-15-2012, 08:27 AM   #20
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Default Re: Clutch Replacement Checklist

Quote:
Originally Posted by code1bob View Post
You are correct. This car probably won't get more than 3-4,000 per year on it now so I figured it was worth the chance. Right now it is shifting as smooth as when it was new. like I said time will tell.

Could you put a straight edge up to it and check flatness with a feeler gage and a light?
This would seem logical. I would say you should always resurface flywheel in order to ensure the friction surface is free of defect. I may actually replace the flywheel whenever I replace my clutch.

...
Derek
2002 Saturn SL1 SOHC 5 Speed.
2001 Saturn SL2 DOHC 5 Speed - Retired.

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