01 SW2 53k miles $2k - but wait, there's more

[WAB]

Saw this on C-list in Jacksonville at a used car dealer. I've been looking for a wagon, and this one for $2k seems like a great deal. My current 2000 SC1 is about to turn 200k and its just really small. The drivers seatbelt in the 3rd gen 3door is just plain hellish to wear.
Drove it 120 miles back to Savannah today. Changed the oil and trans fluid and noticed that the lower block has been welded! Its not leaking fluids now. It does not appear that the motor has been pulled from looking at the bolt heads.
Check it out.
I pulled the air intake tube off.
See anything out of place or wierd? My other 3 Saturns were all SOHC's.

[WAB]

[OldNuc]

At one time it was leaking water there. pull back and get a shot that includes the radiator support. You can see the signs of the leakage.

[WAB]

Here ya go.
It seems to run smooth. It does have a granular type dried substance splattered around the motor (like dried salt water). It this old antifreeze that sprayed out when it blew?
Should I worry or take any proactive measures?
Is this common on the DOHC motors?

Thanks for the help!

[amazinghl]

If there is no oil in coolant, no coolant in oil, and no leaks now, I wouldn't worry about it too much.

[TXSaturn02]

Fresh paint under the hood in just that one area would make me nervous too.

[OldNuc]

Spray it down with Simple Green and wash it all down. Be careful what gets squirted with water. Should be just fine. It is highly likely it is crash damage or a fluke failure. I would not worry about it other than cleaning it all up and see what develops. It runs, it is a wagon, and it is a manual.

[WAB]

Originally Posted by OldNuc

It is highly likely it is crash damage or a fluke failure. It runs, it is a wagon, and it is a manual.

I hope it lasts me many years!
It does an impact hole in the front bumper, the oil pan is scuffed (pavement), and the rear bumper is damaged on both sides.
The slimy used car dealer said they had to replace the rad fan. I think they actually just ran power to it if the key is on.....

[OldNuc]

If the fan comes on when the key it turned to ON the ECTS circuit could well be fubar. With a voltmeter check between the 2 wires fro 5vDC, key on. Replace ECTS. You will need a scanner to be able to read these sensors and it is worth the effort to get one.

[PurdueGuy]

That SC1 would look soooo much better lowered.

[dynonacht]

wat a clean sc

[WAB]

It still is weeping a tiny bit of fluid from what must be a tiny pin hole in the welded area. Some came out while parked overnight. When the motor is hot, it must steam off before it is noticeable.
Plan to degrease/clean the area, wirebrush the area, and use what to finish sealing it? Devcon? JBweld? 3m 5200?

Compression is good, all 4 cyl are within 5psi of 185.

[madpogue]

"Fluid" meaning coolant? Try a cold pressure test - test cap on the reservoir, pump it up with air to 20 psi. Might get that pinhole leak to show itself while cold.

[OldNuc]

Originally Posted by WAB

It still is weeping a tiny bit of fluid from what must be a tiny pin hole in the welded area. Some came out while parked overnight. When the motor is hot, it must steam off before it is noticeable.
Plan to degrease/clean the area, wirebrush the area, and use what to finish sealing it? Devcon? JBweld? 3m 5200?

Compression is good, all 4 cyl are within 5psi of 185.

There are 2 things that will work. POR-15 Por-Patch or BARS Leaks golden seal powder or tablets. Use a single tablet. Do not use any other stop leak. This stuff or the tablets in the same type of package. Use only a single tablet. http://www.saturnfans.com/photos/sho...p?photo=50350# Por-Patch, http://www.por15.com/PORPATCH/productinfo/PPB/

Do not pressurize system over 12-13psi or you will spring the radiator end seals.

Hot glycol will break the bond with epoxy etc. In other words there is very little that will stay stuck.