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#1 |
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my friend called tonight. Her car was hot and she drove home about 25 miles. The car has about 130,000 miles on it and I believe its a 2001 ?
it is a L300 so with the car hot she decided to go back out to the store the car cranks over fine and ran for 2-3 seconds then died. she called me over I had her crank it again and no fire at all. I do not hear the fuel pump at all I opened the two fuel lines/rails at the disconnect ontop of the motor. There was pressure in one, but mostly air and not as much fuel as I would have expected. With the lines open I have her crank the starter and nothing comes out at all. Next I pull the filter inlet pipe under the car. It drips as you would expect. I have her crank the car and again nothing at all. So where is the pump fuse located? where is the pump relay located? and where is the pump wire connector located? I thought I would check the fuse/relay/and connector for power. after that do you all agree that it is the pump? wow... they run 280 at the local flaps. I see universals on ebay much more reasonable. Has anyone ever used a universal? Is there a cheaper source for an original? thanks in advance everyone! brant |
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#2 |
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Is this the V6 engine? How can you hear the fuel pump while the engine is starting unless you mean at ignition ON time?
The fuel pump fuse and pump relay are in the main fuse panel in the engine compartment. The fuel pump connection is above the fuel tank. What you can do is listen for the fuel pump quietly humming/hissing during the 2-second timed cycle when the ignition switch is turned ON. You can cycle the ignition switch as many times as necessary but wait at least 30 seconds between ignition ON cycles. Either listen in the car or press an ear anywhere at the rear end by the tank as someone else turns the ignition switch ON. No fuel pump sounds will require more troubleshooting. Fuel pumps are not cheap. They last almost forever so they're built for reliability to last at least twice the new car warranty and go longer before wearing out. If they weren't reliable then GM wouldn't put them inside our tanks. Placing the fuel pump immersed in fuel allows it to run cool and promotes longevity.
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VCX NANO |
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#3 |
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thank you
yes it's the V6 I didn't hear it hum before it started turning over, but I will go back tomorrow and just turn the key to "on" position to verify. however with both fuel rail quick disconnects completely open there was no fuel flow during the "key on" or cranking so I would think that verifies there is probably no hum either. then I crawled under the passenger side and disconnected the inlet side of the fuel filter. Again, I didn't notice any hum but also left the filter feed line wide open while it was cranking. No flow, no drips so that probably verifies no hum also. I will go back tomorrow thanks for the relay and fuse locations I will check them tomorrow also brant |
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#4 |
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Be sure that the factory security system is disabled with the remote. The UNLOCK button cycles the door lock actuators as well as disarm the Passlock theft deterrent system. If Passlock is flashing (security indicator) while starting then Passlock disables all injectors to prevent engine running. If security is flashing, leave the ignition ON for at least 10 minutes or until flashing stops then cycle the ignition switch OFF for another restart.
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VCX NANO |
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#5 | |
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That is awesome I didn't know that will try it! |
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#6 |
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Update and thanks to everyone.
I think she needs a fuel pump they are running 326 locally, at the flaps. not a fun looking job at all. No 2 second cycling at all the fuse is good. I switched the relay with the identical washer relay and no improvement. I sprayed starter fluid into the manifold and the motor started for a brief moment. I checked the security system light and it turns off and on with the key fob and does not stay on, does not blink So I guess she needs a fuel pump... bummer... brant |
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#7 |
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As a last resort attempt to see if wiring is causing this pump problem, you can jumper (bypass) the pump relay and/or check pump ground. Pump ground is in the rear brake light wiring. Some cars have corroded ground connections. If you are careful you can use a small wire to jumper the pump relay socket terminals, 30 and 87; this sends 12v immediately to the fuel pump to power it (presuming pump ground is intact). If you try the wire jumper you can try thumping the tank bottom in hopes of convincing the pump to run.
If nothing comes from this then dropping the tank to replace the fuel pump is inevitable. ![]()
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VCX NANO |
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#8 |
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thank you again
that is very good advice |
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