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Old 04-30-2012, 08:18 AM   #21
trottida
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1999 SL2
2001 SL1
Default Re: New or Returning S-Series owners' checklist Version 3.0

Quote:
Originally Posted by adventureoflink View Post
Up Arrow (manual trans): Means that the computer has detected the proper engine RPM/vehicle speed for you to safely upshift into the next gear for optimum performance/fuel economy.
I may be wrong but I don't think Saturn's with the Canadian instrument cluster have an upshift light. My 2001 SL1 MT doesn't have one and I'm pretty sure all my bulbs are operational.

...
Current rides
2001 SL1 MT (410,500 km @ 11/2017)
1999 SL2 MT (251,500 km @ 11/2017)
2011 Suburban LT (101,450 km @ 11/2017)

:canada:

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Old 05-01-2012, 01:53 PM   #22
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1997 SC1
Default Re: New or Returning S-Series owners' checklist Version 3.0

You should list the bigger brands/part #'s of the long oil filters.

I'm sitting here trying to figure that out via searching. Kinda sucks.

Edit: Found it.

Motorcraft FL400S
Wix 51516.
Mobil-1 M1-209
Pro-line 20195 from pepboys.
PureOne PL20195
Fram PH3600
SuperTech 3600
K&N HP-2009
3422 Bosch
STP S3600

Last edited by lil_buddy; 05-01-2012 at 02:05 PM..

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Old 05-01-2012, 04:40 PM   #23
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1997 SL2
Default Re: New or Returning S-Series owners' checklist Version 3.0

Quote:
Originally Posted by lil_buddy View Post
You should list the bigger brands/part #'s of the long oil filters.

I'm sitting here trying to figure that out via searching. Kinda sucks.

Edit: Found it.

Motorcraft FL400S
Wix 51516.
Mobil-1 M1-209
Pro-line 20195 from pepboys.
PureOne PL20195
Fram PH3600
SuperTech 3600
K&N HP-2009
3422 Bosch
STP S3600
To be fair with the oil filters I was trying to be somewhat neutral on that bit... but thanks for the part numbers all the same, if only I could get to the short filter numbers...

...
97 SL2
DOB: 3/19/97
Date Obtained: 5/30/07
Status: Alive, 1/2 exhaust

2004 Merc G.Marquis GS
DOB: 2/4/04
Date Obtained: 7/6/12
Status: Alive, no heat

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Old 05-07-2012, 02:45 PM   #24
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Default Re: New or Returning S-Series owners' checklist Version 3.0

I went in and tested/switched out a couple of solenoids in the valve body this weekend following the firemanCV videos. I ran into the problem that I had no idea how to properly put it all back together.

Had to go wash up, fetch my laptop, charge it, spend fifteen mins to find this thread:
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho....php?t=147262#

It has the tightening sequence and torque specs for the valve body cover, the valve body and the actuator cover.

HTH someone else.

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Old 05-24-2012, 12:36 PM   #25
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Default Re: New or Returning S-Series owners' checklist Version 3.0

note on #8: don't just apply power to the fan and(as I did) declare it good if it spins. Let it run for 5-10 min to verify that it doesn't stop after it gets good and hot. In Liama138's case, the 2000 SW2 would overheat in stop&go traffic on hot days w/ A/C on: fan would cycle on&off several times before it got so hot that it would quit. $25 fan motor fixed it after PO had spent $600 @ a shop on waterpump, t-stat, ects, & diagnostics.
I almost didn't catch this, so wanted to pass it on.

Scot

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Old 06-29-2012, 04:10 PM   #26
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Default Re: New or Returning S-Series owners' checklist Version 3.0

24. Automatic Transaxle Fluid/filter. This should be changed RELIGIOUSLY every two years or 30k miles. These Saturn transaxles can slip and/or slam easy, causing damage to the transaxle, warranting a costly repair and at some point, a possible towing bill. The fluid should be pink/red and free of metal parts before changing. If itís black/brown/burning/has metal parts (except during initial break-in)/etc, itís best to leave it as/is, since changing it might turn your car into a 2300# paperweight. Most people drain about 5-7 quarts of fluid out of the transaxle, and you replace by putting a funnel in the dipstick hole and pour five fresh quarts in (or until you get it in the hash marks). Be sure to use an OEM or WIX filter and any synthetic Dexron-III compatible fluid (though most board members claim success using Mobil-1 or Amsol fluid meant for Allison transmissions). Whatever you do, DO NOT buy into a sales pitch at the repair shop for a transaxle flush, as this can cause your problems to get worse or start to develop, even if you started out with good, pink fluid.

Can you further explain why changing the transaxle fluid if it appears "black/brown/burning/has metal parts in it" would create a 2300# paperweight. I am certainly no mechanic (I work with computers), but that seems counter-intuitive. I just bought a used 2000 SL1 (182K miles) - I intend to drain and replace all fluids as I can't be certain how well maintained it was prior to my purchase. The transaxle fluid isn't black or brown, though it certainly isn't the bright red of new.

Could you also explain what the difference between draining the fluid vs "flushing" it is, and why you want to avoid having a shop flush it (other than paying them for something that can be done yourself for cheaper)?

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Old 07-06-2012, 06:53 AM   #27
Bernie
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1998 SL1
Default Re: New or Returning S-Series owners' checklist Version 3.0

Must include the shifter bushing and cabling for manual trans. As a preventative maintenance item, the OEM bushing should, in my opinion, automatically be replaced around the 75,000 mile marker if the car has been driven extensively in a city traffic environment. There is a good source for a replacement bushing at http://www.ebay.com/sch/saturnbushin...&_trksid=p3984 and multiple postings on how to do it.

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Old 07-06-2012, 10:17 AM   #28
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2000 SL
Default Re: New or Returning S-Series owners' checklist Version 3.0



(FWIW, some people, specifically on Gen-3 Saturns, have reported that the fan will click on at ~212 degrees F (half line).)[/QUOTE]


My fan Kicks in Right beofre half line IDK if thts because im in FL..but im not to worried about it

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Old 07-25-2012, 06:19 PM   #29
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Default Re: New or Returning S-Series owners' checklist Version 3.0

33. Miscellaneous info on the ECTS and TTS:

If your temperature gauge STILL looks this after an ECTS replacement:

Then you need a new thermostat. In addition, double check the connector to make sure it is NOT corroded, and the terminations are SOLDERED AND HEAT SHRINK WRAPPED.
[/QUOTE]

When I start the car, my temperature gauge goes up to that point & stays there for a while, then after 30 minutes it climb up to a but to an angle of 50 to 55 degrees. During hot start, it is at 60 degrees angle. But it never really goes up to 95 degree angle. I'm not sure if it has anything to do with it, but my air-conditioning works fine.

The delayed reverse/ slip and slam of my car has been cured by King-rex suggestion of replacing the TTS. Thanks to his forum.

...
Saturn SL2 2000 owner

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Old 07-26-2012, 12:43 AM   #30
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Default Re: New or Returning S-Series owners' checklist Version 3.0

Quote:
Originally Posted by chanty View Post
When I start the car, my temperature gauge goes up to that point & stays there for a while, then after 30 minutes it climb up to a but to an angle of 50 to 55 degrees. During hot start, it is at 60 degrees angle. But it never really goes up to 95 degree angle. I'm not sure if it has anything to do with it, but my air-conditioning works fine.

The delayed reverse/ slip and slam of my car has been cured by King-rex suggestion of replacing the TTS. Thanks to his forum.
You didn't need to cross-post this here and in another thread...

in any case it seems like you solved the problem there and congrats on fixing it

...
97 SL2
DOB: 3/19/97
Date Obtained: 5/30/07
Status: Alive, 1/2 exhaust

2004 Merc G.Marquis GS
DOB: 2/4/04
Date Obtained: 7/6/12
Status: Alive, no heat

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Old 07-31-2012, 09:57 AM   #31
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Default Re: New or Returning S-Series owners' checklist Version 3.0

Sorry Adventurer! Thanks for the info.

I have one more question on Oxygen sensor:

What does the car running rich and running lean means?

(3. Front Oxygen Sensor (on the exhaust manifold). Whilst not a common issue, itís worth mentioning, as itís the third ďheartĒ to maintaining good fuel economy and emissions, as this also controls the open/closed loop operation. It is the last to warm up as part of the carís normal operation. If it goes into open loop when it should be closed, you can experience rich running; if it goes closed loop when it should be open, it will run lean.)

...
Saturn SL2 2000 owner

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Old 07-31-2012, 03:16 PM   #32
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Default Re: New or Returning S-Series owners' checklist Version 3.0

Rich = excessive amounts of fuel (if not at least somewhat more than expected) are being dumped into the cylinder(s)

Lean = extreme fuel starvation in one or more cylinders

both are bad.

...
97 SL2
DOB: 3/19/97
Date Obtained: 5/30/07
Status: Alive, 1/2 exhaust

2004 Merc G.Marquis GS
DOB: 2/4/04
Date Obtained: 7/6/12
Status: Alive, no heat

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Old 08-17-2012, 02:43 AM   #33
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1997 SL2
Default Re: New or Returning S-Series owners' checklist Version 3.0

Justin case this doesn't get made a sticky:

Saturn Training Videos on U-Tube, courtesy of Low Saturn/Mike:

http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=183505

...
97 SL2
DOB: 3/19/97
Date Obtained: 5/30/07
Status: Alive, 1/2 exhaust

2004 Merc G.Marquis GS
DOB: 2/4/04
Date Obtained: 7/6/12
Status: Alive, no heat

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Old 08-17-2012, 05:21 PM   #34
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1998 SC2
Default Re: New or Returning S-Series owners' checklist Version 3.0

Gas mileage is lower than it should be and you have replaced most of the culprits and have no SES codes??

Check your front Brake Rotors for a rust ring.

Mine were interferring and wore down the inside of the newer brake pads.

I put on new rotors and the mostly city mileage went up from 29.5-30 to 32MPG.

If all else fails, give it a shot.

...
'98 SC2 Rare "Red Hot" 5-Speed. Castrol Edge EP

Taking Care of a '01 SL2 10th Ann. Ed. "Silver Salute" Mobil 1 AFE

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Old 08-21-2012, 07:23 AM   #35
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Default Re: New or Returning S-Series owners' checklist Version 3.0

Passing Emissions.

***DISCLAIMER*** this section is in beta/alpha, so feel free to add to this or make corrections

Since this issue keeps coming up often, here's some general tips for passing emissions in your area:

1. Make sure that you have a good ECTS/connector and thermostat (see #1 and #2)
2. Make sure the service engine soon light stays lit while your key is in RUN with the engine OFF. (bolded for emphasis since if it doesn't fail this test, you fail emissions. in addition if the light is on with the engine running, you'll fail.)
2.5. in addition, make sure there's no black tape or whatever blocking the light on the dashboard.
3. Generally, as long as you have no codes stored (in other words, no MIL illumination with code(s) stored), you pass. However, some places will still fail you, even if your MIL is off with the engine running (California is an infamous example to this).
4. CHECK YOUR DAMN OIL!!! Do so, since if you are heavily burning, not only will you kill the cat sooner than expected, but it can cause you to fail emissions.
5. In general, if your vehicle is in the OBD-1 era, you get the tailpipe sniffer. If your vehicle is in the OBD-2 era, you have to take a computer readout. NOTE: Some jurisdictions may also do a sniffer in addition to a computer reading, if you have an OBD-2 vehicle.

Also just so ya know, every time your MIL turns on, you are polluting at about 1.5 times the emissions program level (federal or California standard), your MPG may suffer, and you'll experience crap/rough running.

...
97 SL2
DOB: 3/19/97
Date Obtained: 5/30/07
Status: Alive, 1/2 exhaust

2004 Merc G.Marquis GS
DOB: 2/4/04
Date Obtained: 7/6/12
Status: Alive, no heat

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Old 09-01-2012, 01:23 PM   #36
banman
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2002 SL1
Default Re: New or Returning S-Series owners' checklist Version 3.0

My 'new' wife came with a 2002 SL2.

This thread & forum have been super helpful in my getting to know the Saturn.

Just wanted to add my THANKS! to Adventuroflink and others for the efforts put out here!

David.

...
David
2002 SL1 daily driver

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Old 10-06-2012, 12:33 AM   #37
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1995 SC2
Default Re: New or Returning S-Series owners' checklist Version 3.0

This is an old sticky, but I was revisiting and noticed something that nobody has ever noted.

I think it is worth mentioning the DOHC's timing chain issue, the tensioner has shown signs of being faulty, the chain loosens, and if it gives way it will cause catastrophic engine failure.

This could go under the oil thing, but may also deserve a spot of its own I think.

...
'12 Chevrolet Cruze, 1.4T M/T 101k
Miss my White 95 SC2, said goodbye at 213k, 7 years of ownership.

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Old 11-22-2012, 11:10 PM   #38
1rosyjazz
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1997 SL2
Default Re: New or Returning S-Series owners' checklist Version 3.0

Quote:

When I start the car, my temperature gauge goes up to that point & stays there for a while, then after 30 minutes it climb up to a but to an angle of 50 to 55 degrees. During hot start, it is at 60 degrees angle. But it never really goes up to 95 degree angle. I'm not sure if it has anything to do with it, but my air-conditioning works fine.
I am very curious about this as well, my 97 SL2 does roughly the same thing. It will go up to about 25 degree angle. However, when in major stop-n-go traffic, it will climb as high as 50. Perhaps I am just confused....

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Old 12-10-2012, 11:20 AM   #39
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Default Re: New or Returning S-Series owners' checklist Version 3.0

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1rosyjazz View Post
I am very curious about this as well, my 97 SL2 does roughly the same thing. It will go up to about 25 degree angle. However, when in major stop-n-go traffic, it will climb as high as 50. Perhaps I am just confused....
It should be sitting at the red line.
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Old 12-25-2012, 09:46 PM   #40
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Default Re: New or Returning S-Series owners' checklist Version 3.0

I own a 2001 SL2 and i was reading through this and i have a few questions, i want to settle before i go out and replace unnecessary parts. I'm getting the service engine soon light and the codes are P0340/P0341. i'm going to replace the spark plugs and wires, if this isn't it do i also have to replace the crankshaft position sensor or do these have nothing to do with each other?

i also have the idle being funky especially when stopping at stop lights/signs, right and when i start the car the idle pegs at ~2,000 RPM Do i have to replace the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor).?? i hope someone replies to this.

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