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Old 01-15-2012, 05:59 PM   #1
hicksd67
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2001 L-Series 3.0L Sedan
Dizzy Heater Water Pump bypass

2001 L300. No heat. Only had the vehicle for a few days. Pump for circulating the coolant through the heater core was not working. Found GM has no replacement for pump. Tried bypassing the pump,thinking that the coolant would flow. When I disconnected the hoses at the pump, I found no coolant in the heater hoses at the pump. Does anyone here have experience with bypassing the heater pump?
I know that a blocked heater core would prevent flow, but figured there would be coolant at the pump still. Any thoughts?

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Old 01-15-2012, 07:40 PM   #2
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2008 AURA XE
1996 SL2
Default Re: Heater Water Pump bypass

There isn't an Auxiliary Water Pump anymore.


--------------------
BULLETIN NO.: 02-T-86

ISSUE DATE: December, 2002

CATEGORY TYPE: Engine - 22

CATEGORY: Cooling

CORPORATION NO.: 02-06-02-012
SUBJECT:
Service Information Regarding Elimination of Auxiliary Water Pump and Instructions to Install 2nd Design Heater Inlet Hose and Heater Inlet Elbow in Place of the 1St Design Water Pump and Heater Inlet Hose

MODELS AFFECTED:
2000-2002 Saturn L-Series vehicles equipped with V6 (L81) engines
2003 Saturn L-Series vehicles equipped with V6 (L81) engines and built between and including 3Y500001-3Y519029

PURPOSE:
The auxiliary water pump is not needed for vehicles equipped with V-6 engines. Therefore, any time a heater inlet hose and/or an auxiliary water pump needs to be replaced, the heater inlet hose should be removed and replaced with 2nd design heater inlet hose and heater inlet elbow.


Part #'s 22702079 (Elbow) and 22703745 (Inlet Heater Hose) are what you will need.

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Old 01-15-2012, 09:00 PM   #3
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2003 L-Series 3.0L Sedan
Default Re: Heater Water Pump bypass

And while you're throwing away the auxiliary coolant pump, reverse flush the heater core before connecting new hoses. Its the only time you'll have access to ensure nothing is blocking coolant flow through the heater core so its not out of your way to flush the heater core. You may as well do the same for the rest of the cooling system too by temporarily bypassing the heater core and join the hoses together to flush the cooling system. With a complete flush, the cooling system should be good, leaving the water pump.

If the engine is over 100k miles, the timing belt and water pump are recommended for replacement.

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Old 01-18-2012, 07:45 AM   #4
hicksd67
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2001 L-Series 3.0L Sedan
Default Re: Heater Water Pump bypass

I removed the heater core, and it did have some blockage. I flushed it out with reverse flow, then opposite, and repeated three times. I cleared the lines, making sure they weren't restricted. I reinstalled the heater core, and connected the lines. Rather than use the fitting and hose from General Motors when deleting the pump, I installed a Preston Flush Kit tee (only $3.99 with the clamps @ O'Reily). After refilling the system and capping the reservoir, I started the engine, and pulled the cap on the tee but was not getting any coolant to come out. I ran the car for about 45 minutes, but still had no coolant at the tee. I put the caps back on the tee, and drove it about 30 miles, and checked again (carefully, as the system was under pressure). This time coolant sprayed out.
The tubes at the heater core are both warming up, so I have flow. However, when running the blower fan, with the heater setting on hot (normal engine operating temperature), the air coming out is only slightly warm, and the tubes at the heater core (and the air coming out) cool down within a couple minutes. I had thought that the doors for directing the air might have been contributing to the problem, but since the lines cooled down so quick, I am thinking they are probably working and it is likely the lack of coolant volume through the heater core. But why?

Without the pump, how does enough coolant flow through the heater core to provide heat? It seems that I should have had coolant immediately when I removed the cap on the tee fitting in the heater hose. Is there more to deleting the pump than just bypassing it? The GM parts for deleting it appear to only be an elbow fitting and the hose that goes to the firewall.

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Old 01-18-2012, 07:51 AM   #5
hicksd67
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2001 L-Series 3.0L Sedan
Default Re: Heater Water Pump bypass

I removed the heater core, and it did have some blockage. I flushed it out with reverse flow, then opposite, and repeated three times. I cleared the lines, making sure they weren't restricted. I reinstalled the heater core, and connected the lines. Rather than use the fitting and hose from General Motors when deleting the pump, I installed a Preston Flush Kit tee (only $3.99 with the clamps @ O'Reily). After refilling the system and capping the reservoir, I started the engine, and pulled the cap on the tee but was not getting any coolant to come out. I ran the car for about 45 minutes, but still had no coolant at the tee. I put the caps back on the tee, and drove it about 30 miles, and checked again (carefully, as the system was under pressure). This time coolant sprayed out.
The tubes at the heater core are both warming up, so I have flow. However, when running the blower fan, with the heater setting on hot (normal engine operating temperature), the air coming out is only slightly warm, and the tubes at the heater core (and the air coming out) cool down within a couple minutes. I had thought that the doors for directing the air might have been contributing to the problem, but since the lines cooled down so quick, I am thinking they are probably working and it is likely the lack of coolant volume through the heater core. But why?

Without the pump, how does enough coolant flow through the heater core to provide heat? It seems that I should have had coolant immediately when I removed the cap on the tee fitting in the heater hose. Is there more to deleting the pump than just bypassing it? The GM parts for deleting it appear to only be an elbow fitting and the hose that goes to the firewall.

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Old 01-18-2012, 11:30 AM   #6
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2003 L-Series 3.0L Sedan
Default Re: Heater Water Pump bypass

Well, if the heater core was blocked the rest of the cooling system may have the same crud that was never flushed out. Did you flush the entire cooling system while you were clearing out the heater core?

There are some of us that had to replace the thermostat due to a P0128 error. If your temperature gauge shows the needle near the 1/4 mark then the t-stat may be worn out and running the engine cooler than normal. This can contribute to less hot coolant to the heater.

The heater core on Saturns are free flowing all the time and don't have any shut off valves to leak or get stuck. Loss of coolant flow as you found out may indicate the main cooling system is partially blocked.

What color was the old coolant?

Last edited by fdryer; 01-18-2012 at 11:39 AM..

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Old 01-18-2012, 05:50 PM   #7
hicksd67
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2001 L-Series 3.0L Sedan
Question Re: Heater Water Pump bypass

The coolant was red.
I didn't flush the system.
I will drain and changeout the thermostat, flush the "entire" system, and refill.
The temperature gauge reads about 1/3rd.
With a clean system, and a new thermostat, maybe...
When I checked on getting a thermostat, I was asked if I had the "early" or "later" thermostat housing. I have no idea what the difference is, or which one I have. Do you know how to identify the thermostat housing?

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Old 01-18-2012, 07:42 PM   #8
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2000 L-Series 3.0L Sedan
Default Re: Heater Water Pump bypass

The early housings had a thinner flange where it mounts to the block and were prone to leaking. You would have to remove your old one to see the thickness of the flange as it is buried under the intake manifold otherwise. If you need to go to the new style, you will need two longer bolts also. I wish I knew the thickness of the old and new, maybe you can get a parts person to let you measure the thickness of a new housing before you start to change the thermostat.

Mike

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Old 01-18-2012, 08:22 PM   #9
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Default Re: Heater Water Pump bypass

^ ^ ^ I hate him...he's so up to date and I'm still catching up.

Design Change to Thermostat Housing, Thermostat Housing Bolts, and Thermostat Housing O-ring Seal #02-T-16 - (May 5, 2003)

Service Information Regarding Design Change to Thermostat Housing, Thermostat Housing Bolts, and Thermostat Housing O-ring Seal
2000 - 2002 Saturn L-Series vehicles equipped with V6 (L81) engines having a serial number up to and including 10ZJ 08577463

Purpose

The purpose of this bulletin is to provide "back service" information regarding thermostat housing, thermostat housing bolts, and thermostat housing O-ring seal. During the 2002 model year, vehicles equipped with V6 (L81) engines with a serial number higher than and including 10ZJ 08577464 were manufactured using a 2nd design thermostat housing, bolts, and O-ring seal.

The illustration below shows how to determine a 1st design housing from 2nd design housing. The 2nd design housing has ribs between the tube and the mounting flange as shown. The casting numbers are also different. The 1st design casting number is 90502201 and the 2nd design casting number is 24420652. The 2nd design thermostat housing will back service all 2000 - 2002 vehicles assembled with 1st design housings. Any time a 1st design housing or O-ring seal needs replacement, a 2nd design thermostat kit (P/N22687712) should be installed.

Notice

When replacing a 1st design housing with a 2nd design housing, longer mounting bolts (P/N24455322) and 2nd design O-ring seal (P/N 24447061) are required. The mounting flange of the 2nd design housing is thicker than the 1st design housing and requires a longer bolt to have the necessary thread engagement. The O-ring seal groove on the 2nd design housing is deeper and wider which requires the 2nd design seal. Use of 1st design (shorter) mounting bolts or 1st design O-ring seal with a 2nd design housing may cause an engine coolant leak.


Important

New thermostat housing bolts have thread sealant pre-applied to prevent coolant leaks. If you are servicing a vehicle equipped with a 2nd design housing and you are reusing the original bolts, apply thread sealant PST 565® (or equivalent) to bolt threads before installing.

Parts Information

22687712 - Thermostat KIT-Eng Cool (2nd Design) Includes 2nd design thermostat housing O-ring seal P/N 24447061

24455322 - Bolt/Screw-Eng Cool Therm HSG (2nd Design)
Attached Images
File Type: jpg t-stat housing.jpg (76.2 KB, 25 views)

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