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Old 09-27-2011, 08:03 PM   #1
2NDSOUT
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1994 SL2
1997 SW2
Wrench Replacing CV joints?

Question... has anyone done this at all?

Easy?
Hard?
Need a lift to do it?
How long of a job is this?

Why is there such a HUGE price difference in CV joints? Autozone has them for over $200 for one, while Rock Auto is selling them for $45-$55 for some decent Dorman and Cardone.

Any advice at all? Can turn a decent wrench, have done plenty of other repairs on my cars...if this is doable would like to attempt to this myself.

What are the symptoms of bad CV joints? I would assume that there may be some minor fluid leakage along with some road noise as well?

...
Bryan

94 SL2 225K Miles
97 SW2 255K Miles

Garaged
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Gone 03/12


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Old 09-27-2011, 08:08 PM   #2
OldNuc
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1998 SC2
Default Re: Replacing CV joints?

When they are bad they wil click or crunch as you turn a tight slow corner. Roll the windows down and listen.

They are not hard to change and nice used ones from the JY are maybe 20.00 ea and better quality than any rebuilt or import new. the $50.00 are rebuilts and the 200 are new.

Why do you think they are bad?


Quote:
Originally Posted by 2NDSOUT View Post
Question... has anyone done this at all?

Easy?
Hard?
Need a lift to do it?
How long of a job is this?

Why is there such a HUGE price difference in CV joints? Autozone has them for over $200 for one, while Rock Auto is selling them for $45-$55 for some decent Dorman and Cardone.

Any advice at all? Can turn a decent wrench, have done plenty of other repairs on my cars...if this is doable would like to attempt to this myself.

What are the symptoms of bad CV joints? I would assume that there may be some minor fluid leakage along with some road noise as well?

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Old 09-27-2011, 08:24 PM   #3
2NDSOUT
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1994 SL2
1997 SW2
Default Re: Replacing CV joints?

OldNuc, thank you for the reply.

This goes back to May of this year; when my mechanic friend replaced my clutch with a new one...

1994 SL2
182K miles
5 Speed
I believe I have a slow leak from the Driver's side CV joint. It is wet; whereas the Passenger side is Dry. I have alot of Road noise from the Driver's wheel. Brakes are good as they were just replaced recently. I get alot of road noise when driving at higher speeds and some minor pulsasting.

My mechanic friend had mentioned to me that he thinks that the CV joint may be bad on the Driver's side...unless it is a front driver's side wheel bearing?

Just have alot of excessive road noise on the Driver's Side...

...
Bryan

94 SL2 225K Miles
97 SW2 255K Miles

Garaged
94 SL2 HCE, "Pearl"

Never Forget
94 SC1 340,501 Miles
Original Engine/Auto Trans
02/97-10/08
Gone 03/12


92 SL1
05 VUE
91 SC

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Old 09-27-2011, 09:37 PM   #4
adventureoflink
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1997 SL2
Default Re: Replacing CV joints?

what's going to be a total bi+ch is getting that axle nut off; you practically need a breaker bar if not an impact gun to get it off. and it's a HUGE nut; we just did the CV joints on a Hon-Duhhhh Civic today and yesterday come to think of it.

all CV experience I've had was doing it from a lift... perhaps you _might_ be able to get away with jack stands.

oh yeah, the torque specs, if needed Bryan, I can look it up for you tomorrow at class. AllData FTW. keep in mind that the axle nuts have to be new, you can't reuse them, and the axle nut is going to need triple digit torque.

...
97 SL2
DOB: 3/19/97
Date Obtained: 5/30/07
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Old 09-27-2011, 09:51 PM   #5
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1997 SW2
Default Re: Replacing CV joints?

Ugh.... Nice. Fun times.

...
Bryan

94 SL2 225K Miles
97 SW2 255K Miles

Garaged
94 SL2 HCE, "Pearl"

Never Forget
94 SC1 340,501 Miles
Original Engine/Auto Trans
02/97-10/08
Gone 03/12


92 SL1
05 VUE
91 SC

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Old 09-27-2011, 10:14 PM   #6
ehunter
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Location: Pacifica by San Francisco 5sp Engine rebuild with the help of people here at 177K due to 500mi/qt oil consumption. After 2yrs I am back to 40mpg+ after discovering the refirb head I used was bad. Car runs better than a top. Now at 205k.
Posts: 1,450

1996 SL2
Default Re: Replacing CV joints?

Quote:
Originally Posted by adventureoflink View Post
what's going to be a total bi+ch is getting that axle nut off; you practically need a breaker bar if not an impact gun to get it off. and it's a HUGE nut;
When I took off my axle nuts, it was recommended to have the tires on sitting on the ground. A 1/2 inch breaker bar and what I call the "big gun". My big gun is a 3ft long heavy galvanized pipe I slip over my breaker bar.

I read about many posters that used a 30mm long socket that worked for most while others argued the real size is 29mm. I measured and at least for my 96sl2 it is indeed 29mm. Way too much play with a 30mm socket for my taste.

After the nuts are off, jack stands are fine. You really don't need anything fancy here. I think the torque is 146 or 149ft-lbs... cant remember exactly.

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Old 09-28-2011, 08:11 AM   #7
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1998 SL2
1997 SC2
Default Re: Replacing CV joints?

OldNuc walked me through this a few years back, not hard for a n00bish wrench-turner
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=137511

...
...Wait, what, I actually won that eBay auction? Guess I now (12/2008) own a 1998 SL2, silver, 5 spd :p 102k @ purchase, now 169k
And now (7/2010), a Craigslist 1997 SC2, white, 5 spd

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