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Old 08-24-2011, 03:37 PM   #1
ross527
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Default 99 sl1 egr?

my 99 sl1 with 82,xxx miles on it recently threw a egr code. it ran fine but sometimes would be sluggish on take off. so after reading this forum i removed and cleaned my egr. the next time i drove it there was no problem, ran perfect. after leaving work that night the problem came back! no ses light this time but im still thinking its that egr! but like i said i cleaned it til it looked like new. could driving it for 3 miles clog it back up? also, not sure if this is related or not but the temp gauge never goes above 1/4 of the way up. could this be contributing to the problem or is that normal?

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Old 08-25-2011, 08:42 AM   #2
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Default Re: 99 sl1 egr?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ross527 View Post
i removed and cleaned my egr. the next time i drove it there was no problem, ran perfect.
cleaned per the richpin video? Including a startup (on a warm engine) with the EGR off?
Quote:
but like i said i cleaned it til it looked like new. could driving it for 3 miles clog it back up? also, not sure if this is related or not but the temp gauge never goes above 1/4 of the way up. could this be contributing to the problem or is that normal?
Three miles would be unusual unless there was a big chunk just waiting to get blown up into the EGR

1/4 on the temp gauge is not normal (should be around 3/8) and generally calls for a thermostat replacement. The recommended unit is the 195F degree Stant 14279 (35279 is the same unit but carded instead of boxed)

Low temp can contribute to sluggish take off when warm and low mpg, as it will run rich

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Old 08-25-2011, 12:50 PM   #3
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Default Re: 99 sl1 egr?

Everything I do is instructed by richpin lol. So yes I started it twice with the egr removed and it blew a lot of carbon out. Also installed a new gasket when I reinstalled the egr. Should I have unhooked the battery while doing this so it would reset the codes? Just wondering if my car thinks the egr is still clogged even though its now clean as a whistle

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Old 08-25-2011, 12:52 PM   #4
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Default Re: 99 sl1 egr?

Also I forgot to mention I get around 350 miles per tank and it doesn't seem to be running rich

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Old 08-26-2011, 12:21 AM   #5
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Default Re: 99 sl1 egr?

What code did it throw? There are several codes for the EGR valve.

The electronically controlled EGR valve contains a position sensing device. This device is identical in operation to the TPS and to a traditional radio volume control. It is called a potentiometer. A potentiometer is a variable resistor that serves as a variable voltage dividing device. Voltage of opposite polarity is connected to each end of the resistor, and the wiper glides over the resistance material to collect voltage from various points on this resistor.

In the case of the EGR valve, this device can be used to tell the computer how far open the EGR valve is.

The purpose of the EGR valve is to inject inert 'spent' gasses to the combustion chamber, to cool combustion somewhat (dilute the combustion mixture and also absorb heat), because too hot a combustion releases NOx gasses, which are a pollutant. A biproduct of this combustion cooling is that the exhaust valves last significantly longer, so please do not block off the EGR valve. The computer must know how much exhaust gas is being injected to the combustion chamber so that it can adjust fuel mixture properly, since the exhaust gas will displace available oxygen. If the computer doesn't know where the EGR valve is, it can't accurately meter fuel, and so you have a lack of power due to incorrect combustion mixtures, as well as an EGR valve that's open during critical power moments (normally the valve is closed for idle and when power is needed, as it destroys good combustion).

To test the EGR valve potentiometer, connect your ohmmeter (preferrably with alligator clips) to the center terminal and to each adjacent terminal, one at a time. Move the pintle in and out smoothly. Resistance should change smoothly, and should start and stop pretty much in the same place each time. If it jumps around, the potentiometer is faulty, and the entire assembly must be replaced. The jumping around is on par to the scratchiness you hear from a worn volume control.

If the potentiomter is worn, you likely got an 'EGR out-of-range' code.

Replacement of the EGR valve due to this fault on my '99 SL2 greatly improved power, and eliminated the very random characteristics of my car's acceleration. It even made for quite acceptable power with the AC on.

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Old 08-26-2011, 10:05 AM   #6
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Default Re: 99 sl1 egr?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ross527 View Post
Should I have unhooked the battery while doing this so it would reset the codes? Just wondering if my car thinks the egr is still clogged even though its now clean as a whistle
I thought your light went out, meaning the code was cleared? Having a code/light does not change how the car computer (PCM) operates, the PCM sets the light/code based on info it gets from the sensors.

If you need to clear a code or reset a light for testing purposes, it's easier (IMO) to pull the PCM-B fuse for a few seconds from the UHJB (under hood junction box) by the battery.

if you don't have a light anymore, I would look at the thermostat

Quote:
Also I forgot to mention I get around 350 miles per tank
Miles per gallon would be more useful. The needle on the gas gauge is pretty inaccurate, can be off by a gallon or two. Your SL1 should pul around 38~44 mpg hwy (not knowing how you drive, road conditions and whether auto or manual trans)

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Old 08-26-2011, 07:50 PM   #7
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Default Re: 99 sl1 egr?

350 miles is pretty decent. Typically that's what I get with my '99 SL2. It averages around 33 mpg in the city.

When I replaced my EGR valve, after the position sensor went bad, I did not notice much of an improvement in fuel economy, but did notice a great improvement in power.

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Old 08-29-2011, 06:33 AM   #8
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Default Re: 99 sl1 egr?

As for codes on the EGR, don't trust them. I've had obvious EGR problems that didn't set a code. Often even when cleaned the EGR will keep acting up. You could block it to make sure that is the culprit, since the good replacements aren't cheap.

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