New or returning owner's S-series checklist.

[adventureoflink]

1. ECTS (Electronic Coolant Temperature Sensor). This is one of several “hearts” of the system, which helps maintain fuel economy. The original ones from 1991-mid 2001 (it’s virtually impossible to tell when the changeover happened) were made of resin/plastic, which liked to crack, causing incorrect readings to the PCM. It should be noted that there are two sensors on the 1991-1995 S-series engines (the one wire sensor controls the temperature gauge; the two wire sensor is the actual ECTS), and 1996-2002 just have the two wire sensor only. The connectors also liked to leak and corrode, which also assists in telling the PCM “lies” about how the engine is running. You should replace this with a brass tipped sensor. While the connector can be cleaned out with some CRC electrical cleaner, in general it’s accepted to replace this connector with either a junked Saturn’s IAT connector (same sensor, same wiring) or an LED connector from an old computer. Be sure to solder and heat-shrink wrap your splices!! When in doubt, replace the ECTS anyway. It’s only $10 or so, and just because it’s brass, doesn’t necessarily mean it’s bulletproof.
ECTS/connector R&R: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cucm7QGlsYs
Using a PC motherboard connector for the ECTS: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ageV7g6eyw

2. Thermostat. This is another “heart” to maintaining good fuel economy. It can also help with having good, toasty heat in the winter. Old thermostats like to fail in one of two positions: Open, which doesn’t allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature (at best the gauge will peg at ¼ line or ~160 degrees F or LOWER – BAD NEWS for your engine and heat!), or closed, which will allow for the kick-butt fuel economy AND heating, but has one downside: it can cause your engine to overheat. More often than not it will fail open though. It is recommended to replace this with a STANT 14297 188/195 degrees F thermostat.
Thermostat R&R: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JEoLFrg8IUI

3. Water Pump. At 10-12 years (or 100-120k miles) these like to leak coolant ALL OVER the backside of your front passenger’s side tire, usually mandating a tow truck to come rescue you. When in doubt, or if it’s past any multiple of 100k-120k miles, REPLACE ASAP as a preventative maintenance measure.
Water Pump R&R: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nRbUjGLviMY
Also check this out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pRpG1BIVRcc

4. Radiator. At 10-12 years, these like to pop at the driver’s side endtank, usually around the transaxle cooling line input. At first these can start off as steam leaks, but can evolve to something worse, REALLY fast, to where you’d need a tow truck to bail you out. Trust me, it has happened to me once.
Radiator R&R: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4nUyGjeLpVs

5. Coolant. This should be flushed every five years or 100k miles (or if using the green stuff, two years or 30k miles). When in doubt, or when it’s past any year/mileage flush interval, DO SO, especially after doing any kind of cooling system maintenance (replacing hoses, water pump, radiator, thermostat, etc). Flushing at regular intervals can help keep your water pump in check and can help maintain a good, solid inside part of your engine where everything flows as it should, as the additives in coolant will deplete over time, making it dirty and sludgy. Most board members prefer using the green coolant as opposed to the OEM Dex-cool; this horse has been beat to death MANY times in the past.
Flushing instructions: http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...89&postcount=1

5.5. Stop-leak products of ANY kind. Ah yes, the legendary fix in a can, which can instantaneously repair ANY kind of leak, ANYWHERE on your car’s system (coolant, engine oil, transaxle, air conditoner, etc). It should be noted that these products simply DO NOT WORK, and when they do, they either don’t hold out for very long, or simply make your problems worse. It’s ALWAYS best to repair ANY kind of leak, the CORRECT way, even if it’ll initially lead into a big repair bill (because hey, using the stop leak will accelerate that bill faster and you’ll have to pay up at some point anyway, right..? or maybe that stop leak will accelerate that bill in other, unknown ways, like clogging the heater core or A/C compressor...?).
It should be noted that the ONLY exception to this is the Bar’s Leaks ginger root seal, or about 30-50 grams of ginger root, put into the cooling system. This will help stop MINOR head gasket leaks and prevent them. It was used from the factory, from day one.

6. Automatic Transaxle Fluid/filter. This should be changed RELIGIOUSLY every two years or 30k miles. These Saturn transaxles can slip and/or slam easy, causing damage to the transaxle, warranting a costly repair and at some point, a possible towing bill. The fluid should be pink/red and free of metal parts before changing. If it’s black/brown/burning/has metal parts (except during initial break-in)/etc, it’s best to leave it as/is, since changing it might turn your car into a 2300# paperweight. Most people drain about 5-7 quarts of fluid out of the transaxle, and you replace by putting a funnel in the dipstick hole and pour five fresh quarts in (or until you get it in the hash marks). Be sure to use an OEM or WIX filter and any synthetic Dexron-III compatible fluid (though most board members claim success using Mobil-1 or Amsol fluid meant for Allison transmissions). Whatever you do, DO NOT buy into a sales pitch at the repair shop for a transaxle flush, as this can cause your problems to get worse or start to develop, even if you started out with good, pink fluid.
Automatic Transaxle fluid/filter R&R: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dfh9HGU3NXM

7. Oil and filters. I’m not going to get into a big argument here about oil and filters (it’s been beaten like a dead horse too many times to count), though most board members claim success with various diesel oils, and ESPECIALLY Mobil-1 full synthetic oil. Most filters are good; many members claim success with Ford Motocraft, AC-Delco, Purolator, K&N, and WIX Oil filters, long or short. Be sure to use 5w-30 oil whenever possible, but you can use 10w-30 in the summer months (or all year round if you live in the “Sun Belt”). Be sure to also replace with about four quarts of oil; you may need a little more if you’re using a long filter.
Oil/filter R&R here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_AtxXKU1h4 (though it IS possible to get at it from underneath using ramps/jackstands)

8. Radiator cooling fan. At unknown intervals (this happens more often in the “Sun Belt” than other places), the fan motors like to go out, also aiding in overheating, poor running air conditioning, etc. If you suspect any of these conditions, hot-wire the fan motor to the battery. If it doesn’t scream while running, it’s time to replace it.
Cooling fan R&R and testing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VnFFEFrlXlo

***continued in the second post, due to the 10,000 character limit***

[adventureoflink]

***continued from post #1***

9. Spark Plugs and Wires. You should change these every two years or 30k miles; wires I personally would let go until every 60k miles or if you get any kind of P0340/P0341 or misfire codes. ALWAYS USE NGK COPPER SPARK PLUGS, and any mid-priced wire set. I personally prefer AC-Delco wires.
As a note, if you DO get a P0340 and/or P0341 code, it’s time to change the spark plugs and wires, and even clean/inspect the ignition coils/module. If ignition coils/module have to be replaced, it’s always best to find them from any junked Saturn, 1991-2002. ALWAYS use NGK coppers, as the platinum plugs can screw with the G.M. waste spark system, causing misfires, running rough, etc.
Spark plug R&R: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UqB2nq0V07c
Spark plug wire R&R: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gq5hRTjll3E (don’t worry about the retainer; that’s on 3rd gen engines IIRC)
Ignition coil/module R&R: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8XgHM1i5jK8

10. Motor Mount. Put it this way: If you get all kinds of vibrations, AND you can fit your fingers between the metal and rubber part of the mount, it’s time to just replace it. Be sure to replace with a SOLID mount only, preferably OEM. Although most board members claim success with parts store SOLID mounts (when and if they find them), sometimes it’s for the better to go OEM with this one. DO NOT use frowny style mounts, as these can make your problems MUCH worse, AND can even take the studs and timing cover along with it. When going to the parts store, do inspect the mounts they offer, as every once in awhile they will unwillingly stock a solid mount (even though 8 times out of 10 it’s the crap-o frowny ones).
Upper motor mount R&R: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zaugUfILmGE
Mount testing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWN3tplXr8U

11. AAA membership. For ANY S-series 1991-2002 (and any used car made over five years ago, let alone something already paid for), it’s best to carry one of these on you. When possible, just ignore the fact that you have roadside assistance through your insurance company, as it either:
* may not cover everything
* it can count against you as part of your claims history AND can be grounds for termination through your insurance
* you may have to pay first and then get reimbursed later
So in the long run, just purchase a AAA membership. It’s not all that expensive, AND can be REALLY handy if you get in a pinch.

12. Battery. Every five years (or when it’s close to its out of warranty period, whatever comes first) replace it as part of preventative maintenance. If it’s let go, it can cause your starting to be slower than usual, won’t charge all the way, the heater won’t work as it should, automatic transaxles can slam/slip, ABS lights will come and go as they please, etc. And if you let it go too long, it can even take out your alternator, causing an expensive (and usually avoidable and unnecessary) repair. While R&R’ing the battery, it’s best to also check the terminals for corrosion and clean/replace as necessary.
Battery mount R&R: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8MUUY2EE38c

13. Starts up, runs for ~10 minutes, once it reaches operating temperature, it’ll die and won’t restart until it’s cooled down. This is the end result of a crankshaft position sensor headache. This is THE heart and soul of an EFI system, as it senses the crank, when to send spark, etc. On Saturns, it’s usually above and behind the starter, and you need a 10mm head socket to remove the one bolt it supports itself to. 99% of the time, you will NOT get a crankshaft position sensor code (although there are codes designated for it and people HAVE tripped one in the past) due to it being the heart and soul of the EFI system. No CPS = no spark or crank sensing = dead engine.
CPS R&R: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PVTFFOwqNZM (word of warning, be sure to have good speakers and turn this video up louder than normal, it’s kinda quiet)

14. Fuel Filters. 1991-1997, it really doesn’t matter what brand you use, for the most part. 1998-2002, however, does. It matters in those years due to the pressure regulator being built into the filter. If the regulator isn’t working properly, it can cause lean running mixtures sent to the engine, causing burnt valves and other costly headaches. For this reason, it’s best to replace with either an OEM, WIX, or NAPA fuel filter.
Fuel Filter R&R of a 1998-2002 S-series: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lVeyA6B2afU

15. Towing/hauling. Keep in mind that these are small cars, NOT trucks or old muscle cars. These Saturns were meant to compete with other compacts, domestic and import. That being said, the weight limit is 1,000#s. Hint: U-haul hitches and trailers will usually eat up ~250-700#s of this weight limit. Going over this limit might result in unneeded wear/tear on your drivetrain, if not the load ripping off of the vehicle. For better results with towing/hauling heavy loads, you might want to use a higher octane fuel (and the owner’s manual DOES recommends this).

16. Fuel octanes. Whenever possible, just use 87, preferably from a source that does NOT use ethanol. Not only is it the cheapest, but using a higher octane usually doesn’t help with fuel economy. The only times I would suggest using a higher octane fuel would be:
* in the sun/humid belt regions, when it’s over 100 degrees F
* to help diagnose/troubleshoot knocking/pinging
* towing/hauling heavy loads
(note: these tips also come from the owner’s manual as well, for all the anti-higher-than-87-octane people out there.)

17. Intake Manifold (Gaskets).
* 2000-2002 SOHC engines: P0301 + P0507 = a nice recipe for a soured intake manifold gasket. Due to a defect from the factory (either miscalibrated robots or a bad IM gasket), these things like to leak vaccuum and set these two SES codes usually right around... NOW. These two codes, as well as spraying brake cleaner around the cyl #1 area will confirm this.
* 1999.5-2001/2002 DOHC engines: these liked to leak coolant, and there is a TSB out there for it.

18. SOHC engines, oil in the coolant, and you. 1995-2002 SOHC engines from time to time will pop the head (usually around the #5 can journal), causing a hairline crack to leak oil into the coolant.

19. Throttle Body. I'm sure you've noticed a sticking accelerator (NOT like the Toyotas mind you), slightly less gas mileage, harder to push in the accelerator, idle being funky especially when stopping at stop lights/signs, right? If so, these are the classic signs of needing to give your throttle body and IAC (Idle Air Control) Valve a good scrubdown. Oh yeah, if you start the car, the idle pegs at ~2,000 RPM, and you shut the car down and it goes away, it's time to replace the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). Don't worry, it's also right on the Throttle Body as well.
Throttle Body/IAC Valve Cleaning: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pc5qCuQLmFE

Hopefully this covers just about everything... *whew* Comments/praise/corrections/etc are welcomed.

[adventureoflink]

Nice... I forgot the ONE BIG thing about owning an S-series, and Wolfman said it best:

Old Saturns NEVER die, people KILL 'em, so CHECK YOUR DAMN OIL!!!

Do so, as these things LOVE to go through oil. Check your oil especially during the first few fillups to get an idea on how much oil you're using. Usually 1 quart per 1,000 miles isn't too bad. If your oil burning is bad/severe, people have had hit and miss luck by doing piston soaks with additives such as MMO, Auto-Rx, and SeaFoam. The only tried and true way to curb the burning is to re-ring the pistons and drill drain holes in them.
If, however, you also have a leak, first thing to do is check the spark plugs for oil soaks, as well as anywhere around the valve cover (AKA that thing that says OHV/EFI for SOHC engines and TWIN CAM 16 VALVE for DOHC engines). If you see it leaking out of there (and/or in the spark plug holes, usually #1), chances are you need a new valve cover gasket, and probably a new valve cover itself due to warpage. Many board members have had success yanking a valve cover off a gen-1 engine (due to the aluminum design) and swapping it. BE SURE TO ALSO GRAB THE BOLTS FOR THAT COVER.

Power losses. If you notice one as well as a code P0404, and slightly lower fuel economy, it's time to clean or replace your EGR valve. You can verify the power loss by blocking the EGR valve with a temporary gasket; some people like to use a soda pop can, others like to use two quarters. For long-term testing I'd recommend two quarters, as the heat can melt the aluminum on the pop can.
EGR R&R and cleaning: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bt5lRTt6BsU

If the EGR doesn't help the loss of power, you may have an exhaust restriction (usually the cataclyctic converter melting on you internally and blocking it). Verify this by removing the front O2 sensor (it's right on the exhaust manifold, AKA that big red thing on the front of the engine) and go for a drive. It will be loud, but if you regain power, then there ya go. Also, finding a red hot cataclyctic converter and/or banging on it to listen for loose cat guts will verify this as well.

Doing a compression test: BARE MINIMUM compression is 180-185 PSI across all four cylinders. Any less than that and you're looking at surgery. To see what you're in for, fill the offending cylinder(s) with a tablespoon of engine oil, make sure the engine is warm and full of oil and try again. If the oil helps, it's your piston rings; if it doesn't help, you have a bad valve (bent, burnt, etc). If you get a similar low reading from two adjacent cylinders (eg: 190-100-100-190), chances are you have a bad head (gasket).
Compression test: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UdZHPa6fxjE

Saturn FSM link: http://www.megaupload.com/?d=U91G8H74 (it is 191.8 MB, so be sure to have a good internet connection, and it is for a '98)

Transaxle issues.

Automatic: Slamming/slipping is a common problem on these automatics. You should first check battery voltages and the fuses. Battery voltage should be 12.5v engine/accessories off, 14.4v engine/accessories on. If it's not there, this is the first place to look at: your charging system (up to and including the alternator and belt).
Alternator/Belt R&R here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iogtiYraHCg
And of course, if you have to replace the blown fuses, please do so (but you may also want to find out why the fuse blew in the first place).

If this doesn't work, and/or it's reverse slam, try Wolfman's fix here: http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23670

If, however, the Wolfman fix doesn't work, battery voltage is within spec, and/or you're getting FORWARD gear slip/slam, then you'll have to do some minor surgery, first the valve body. Special Forces is VERY GOOD at rebuilding s-series valve bodies and diagnosing transaxle issues in general. If the VB doesn't work, chances are it's the input/output shaft nuts. USE NEW NUTS and put some thread lock on it. Torque all at once, and torque to 111 ft-#s for both nuts.

VB and I/O nut R&R here: http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=98659

Manual: shifter feels loose and won't go into gear. this is either your shifting cables or the shifter bushing. To be sure, open your console to get to the shifter bushing. If the shifter isn't connected, there ya go. Use some zipties and careful shifting until you can get a new bushing. Use the stainless steel bushing (IIRC that would be saturnbushingman on e-bay).

Console R&R: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J4wbyiSwSBQ
Shifter Bushing R&R: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oi6kOQg8xI8 (it's not a Richpin video, but it'll do)

Coolant light making itself known, full reservoir of coolant, and you. Chances are the float is stuck in your coolant reservoir, causing it to erratically turn on. The cure for this is that it needs to be cleaned out.
Reservoir cleaning: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-5814yr2p_Y

[jfcadena]

Excellent post. Should be a sticky.

[strudel.chris]

Thanks a million for the write-up!

This should definitely be stickied!!!

[mfedenko]

Originally Posted by jfcadena

Excellent post. Should be a sticky.

Not before adding a VB write-up for us auto owners.
Nice job Link.

[adventureoflink]

Originally Posted by mfedenko

Not before adding a VB write-up for us auto owners.
Nice job Link.

No problem. It's actually common issues reported over and over. And yes, IMHO it should be a sticky, but I want all the errors fixed and all common issues with S-series known first.

As for the VB and auto transaxle slipping/slamming, there's decent reports in the how-to library; perhaps I should link to them here...

[96sl1daily]

great post! im gonna be doing some of these things in the better weather. i just picked up my car in december and im really likeing it so far.

[sl2solow]

Good Job, this has helped and will help all that dont have a clue like me. Keep up the good work.

[alordofchaos]

Originally Posted by adventureoflink

, there's decent reports in the how-to library; perhaps I should link to them here...

Great thread

Most valuable links I've found:

richpin videos on YouTube

The Saturnfans How To Library

http://www.differentracing.com/tech_articles/index.html

Link t0 1998 FSM, originally posted by doser a while back
Almost 200mb, but well worth it - a good part of the info can be used for other years, too

www.car-part.com

[hoggman]

well done.the information is vital to the longevity to these cars.this forum has educated me to keep my car running and should help others.
thanks again

[fmctaurus]

Great information and very well written.

I do a yearly flush of the brake lines, and of the power steering fluid (removing the old fluid with a turkey baster or large syringe, and adding fresh).

About every one to two years, I also flush out the coolant.

Also, I have begun to keep an eye out (and treat) for rust on the subframe, and the door sills, especially the driver side, as they tend to rust out here in the land of salty winters.

168,627 miles and counting.

George

[TXSaturn02]

Great work. This is especially helpful to newbs, but even people who have been loitering around here a while like being able to find the most common answers in one spot.

[spencerforhire]

I'm going to add some things to watch for if you live anywhere that road salt is used in the winter, or even if you live near the ocean-
Here in Atlantic Canada, we're cursed with both, and we have probably the worst corrosion issues in North America. The junkyards are full of 8-10 year old cars that rusted so badly that they are not repairable.
Because of our S-series' polymer body panels tend to look great even after 10 or 15 years, even the prettiest, perfect looking Saturn may be hiding serious problems. If you're contemplating the purchase of a Saturn, or want to keep the one you have for a long time, you have to check for rust!
The 2 worst locations are the left side of the front sub-frame around the lower control arm mount and under the step plates in the rear door sill area. Both of these can be repaired, but usually indicate there's more rust in the future.

[snake37]

Thank you very much for this posting. My girlfriend has a Saturn 2002 SC2 and I had several questions that you answered. Look forward to learning more via the Forum..

[adventureoflink]

Originally Posted by snake37

Thank you very much for this posting. My girlfriend has a Saturn 2002 SC2 and I had several questions that you answered. Look forward to learning more via the Forum..

Hey, thank everyone else for the information -- Richpin, Low Saturn, Wolfman, OldNuc, Fdryer, madpogue, alordofchaos, 2NDSOUT, BarnOwl -- just to name a few. I just took the time to compile it all into one thread that everyone could see.

as said before, hopefully this'd ease off on the mass redundant known issues threads.

[adventureoflink]

Coolant light making itself known, full reservoir of coolant, and you. Chances are the float is stuck in your coolant reservoir, causing it to erratically turn on. The cure for this is that it needs to be cleaned out.
Reservoir cleaning: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-5814yr2p_Y

[ehunter]

Has anybody tracked the parts and places to buy for the most competitive prices when doing repairs? Does it make sense to add that information here or give it its own spreadsheet?

I have spent an awful amount of time searching for the groups favorite and most dependable parts for my car. If people think it is a good idea I have some data archived and can post. I bet a lot of others would jump in as well.

For example:
7. Oil and filters. I’m not going to get into a big argument here <blab bla bla>…
…
Oil/filter R&R here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_AtxXKU1h4 (though it IS possible to get at it from underneath using ramps/jackstands)

Filter Favs: SL2 - 1a)Purolator PureOne part# PL10241/Sears $6.40 1b) Motorcraft xxx-xxx RockAuto $6.00 2)Bosch yyy-yyy Autozone $8.00
Oil Favs: 1a) Chevron Supreme 10/30 Cosco $45? case 1b) Mobile1 Syn 10/30 Costco $70 case

[alordofchaos]

How to tell what model S-series you have and what options it came with originally:

Enter any GM (including Saturn) VIN here:
http://www.compnine.com/vid.php

Or look at this listing of option codes and reading your VIN
http://www.differentracing.com/tech_...in_decode.html

[t&m]

Excellent write up, thanks for the time you put into this thread.