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Old 09-06-2010, 10:55 PM   #1
born again
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2000 L-Series 2.2L Sedan
2000 L-Series 2.2L Wagon
Default 2.2 Liter 4 Cylinder Engine Replacement

I just completed installing a used (135,000 km 2001) engine in my now 281,000 km car. The old one had low compression on cylinder No.4 and a rod knock. A couple of tips for anyone who wants to try this:
- The engine can come out the top. For the manual transmission you need to remove the transmission mounts, crankshaft pulley, serpentine belt tensioner, alternator, and AC compressor to make enough room to clear the flywheel and clutch. The transmission can be jacked up a bit to open some clearance at the top and the TX can be pushed to the left side of the car. For ATX you need to remove the converter bolts. The manual says to remove the starter for access to these or you could drop the oil pan. The starter is held in with Torx head bolts. The converter bolts have very low heads and are Locktited in so they are easy to damage.
- The hood doesn't need to be removed. It opens up almost vertical. I tied a rope to the latch and lead it over the roof and tied it to the trunk latch above the rear bumper (trunk open).
- The engine mounts for the manual and auto trans cars look the same but they are actually different. The auto TX car has the engine about 1-1/2" farther back.
- If the slave cylinder for clutch release is OK then don't mess with it. The three bolts holding it in place have shallow T30 recesses and are threadlocked in place. The previous mechanic who replaced the clutch had stripped these out installing them. While I had a new slave cylinder, I could not get these out and just left the old one in.
- The bleeder screw for the slave cylinder has the same problem as for the wheel cylinders on the rear drum brakes - steel bleeders in an aluminum body. The resultant corrosion is a strong as super glue. I purchased and installed a new hose. Best to just leave well enough alone and don't open the hydraulic system to the air.
- When you buy a used engine look it over very carefully for problems. I had an engine that was mated to an automatic transmission to install in a manual trans car. To get the torque converter bolts out I removed the oil pan. It was a bit dirty so I cleaned it out well. I discovered a small crack in the bottom from it being dragged over a rock or by somebody jacking it without a wood block. This definitely would have leaked. I used my old oil pan.

The new engine runs very well. The power doesn't seem any different, but it is definitely smoother and quieter and seems to use less fuel.

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Old 09-08-2010, 02:55 PM   #2
dan7
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Default Re: 2.2 Liter 4 Cylinder Engine Replacement

Good to read of your successful engine replacement. Too bad you're upwards from my location or I'd offer to buy the core.

Did you take pics of the R/R process. If so consider posting them.

I may be looking at such an action in the future, but am having little success in finding a used engine.

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Old 09-08-2010, 10:04 PM   #3
born again
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Default Re: 2.2 Liter 4 Cylinder Engine Replacement

I did take some pictures. But I have been stumped by the photo upload process. The help refers to a phantom BROWSE button that I don't see. Any advice?

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Old 09-11-2010, 06:36 AM   #4
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Default Re: 2.2 Liter 4 Cylinder Engine Replacement

No advice at this time on photo posting, but perhaps someone can assist.

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Old 09-11-2010, 09:14 AM   #5
Robman
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Default Re: 2.2 Liter 4 Cylinder Engine Replacement

It appears that Chuck has disabled the photo posting capability of the forum. I suggest using http://www.tinypic.com they are suitable and have more features for resizing and editing pictures and video.

...
Rob
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Old 09-15-2010, 11:23 PM   #6
born again
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Default Re: 2.2 Liter 4 Cylinder Engine Replacement

Let's try this-


Last edited by born again; 09-15-2010 at 11:28 PM..

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Old 09-15-2010, 11:33 PM   #7
born again
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Default Re: 2.2 Liter 4 Cylinder Engine Replacement

Update

On Tuesday the engine began making "thrashing" noises from the timing chain area. I pulled out the TC tensioner and it was stuck in the fully retracted position. I pulled it apart and cleaned out some hard organic type black deposits from the cylinder bore. Put it back in again and it was back to normal. I think the Auto-RX I put in the engine when I installed it freed the tensioner up enough that it moved to retracted when the engine shut down, then it jammed in that position when re-started.

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