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Old 08-29-2010, 07:44 AM   #1
fredsfix
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1997 SL1
Default After Valve Body grinding reverse/park

This is a 97 SC2 I picked up as a project car for $400 because it "needs a transmission". Typical no reverse and slam in forward gears but I did drive it the 5 miles home. I did a junk yard valve body change from a 97 SC2, with fluid and filter. Have not yet done the input/output nut tighten. I put in 3 qts of fluid to start and fired her up thinking it should top off with 3.4 I believe the book said. Didn't sound good to say the least and there was no fluid on the stick so I added the final qt from the gallon I had bought. Sounded much better.
I slipped it in reverse, still nothing there, went on down to drive and I heard a slight rpm change but no movement there either. Went to slide it back into park and got an awful gear grinding sound. Went back to neutral, to drive, to neutral, to gear grinding sound when I tried for reverse.
Is this a normal reaction when the valve body is changed but the nuts have not been tightened?
Also the issue of quantity of fluid. I'm told the engine has been changed to lower than the odometer says, if the transmission was changed along with the engine to a newer year, is that why the additional fluid is needed and perhaps my replacement 97 valve body was not right?
There is also the matter of the only moveable piece of the valve body. That thing that slides in and out on the right as you install the body. Is it possible to mess that up? I confess go having no clue what to do with it and if it all has to come out again I'm good with that.
I have the lower end apart and still searching for a 12pt 23mm thin. That is not the point here - will I be ok once I tighten those two nuts which are quite loose?

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Old 08-29-2010, 09:04 AM   #2
OU812
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1996 SL1
Default Re: After Valve Body grinding reverse/park

Did you attach the link to the manual valve?

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Old 08-29-2010, 09:41 AM   #3
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Default Re: After Valve Body grinding reverse/park

Quote:
Originally Posted by OU812 View Post
Did you attach the link to the manual valve?
Sounds like he did, but is wondering if you could make a mistake there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fredsfix View Post
Is this a normal reaction when the valve body is changed but the nuts have not been tightened?
This wasn't my experience after first doing the VB and then the nuts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fredsfix View Post
I'm told the engine has been changed to lower than the odometer says, if the transmission was changed along with the engine to a newer year, is that why the additional fluid is needed and perhaps my replacement 97 valve body was not right?
All the VBs '94 and up are the same.
1st Design 1991-92
2nd Design 1992-93
3rd Design 1994-Up

Quote:
Originally Posted by fredsfix View Post
I have the lower end apart and still searching for a 12pt 23mm thin. That is not the point here - will I be ok once I tighten those two nuts which are quite loose?
It seems like most people resort to grinding down a standard socket like I did.
And this note from the FSM:

NOTICE: Use a new nut due to insufficient torque retention of old nut. Clean shaft threads with wire brush. When tightening and torquing this nut it must be done quickly. The thread locking material used on the new nut will cure in a short time resulting in incorrect torque."

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Old 08-29-2010, 09:50 AM   #4
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Default Re: After Valve Body grinding reverse/park

Btw - have you seen the new videos campus189 has on Youtube?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iydt4TLPXyg

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Old 08-29-2010, 10:36 AM   #5
hein
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1998 SW2
Default Re: After Valve Body grinding reverse/park

OP,

I came up with a tool to hold the clutch while you tighten the input shaft nut. I need a product tester to try it so if you PM me then I'll ship one out to you for free.

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