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Old 03-23-2010, 10:39 AM   #21
Mgg4591
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Default Re: I don't know what could possibly go wrong next

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Originally Posted by madpogue View Post
Do you have an extension on the socket, to get the breaker bar to clear the top of the mount? Been a while since I worked on mine, but I don't think the hood will interfere.

Again - you DO have the engine supported underneath, right? Otherwise, the weight of the engine on the mount is working against you.
In richpin's video he doesnt jack up the engine until those two nuts are removed.

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Old 03-23-2010, 10:55 AM   #22
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Default Re: I don't know what could possibly go wrong next

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In richpin's video he doesnt jack up the engine until those two nuts are removed.
I can't view the video from here, and indeed, you don't want to _lift_ the engine until the nuts are removed. But you want the jack in _place_, at least taking some of the weight. Esp. since you only have two studs/nuts working on the timing cover. Just position the jack and block so it's making contact with the pan. If it's actually starting to lift it, back off.

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Old 03-24-2010, 09:53 PM   #23
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Default Re: I don't know what could possibly go wrong next

As far as fixing the threads in the cam cover, what if i fill the hole up with JB Weld then set the stud in it? Would it hold? Just wondering...

EDIT: Of course i would let it set for 24 hours before putting the nut on.

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Last edited by Mgg4591; 03-24-2010 at 10:04 PM..

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Old 03-25-2010, 02:41 PM   #24
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OK, i managed to get the front mount nut out after bashing it with a hammer and alot of force on the wrench. I cannot get the back nut out at all. It is not going anywhere. The front one was extremely hard and it was easily accessible. It's impossible trying to break it loose with a flimsy extension. I cut my hand pretty badly twice when trying to get it off, so i quit after it happened a third time. I'm half way there as far as getting the mount out. What should i try next?

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Old 03-25-2010, 03:13 PM   #25
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Default Re: I don't know what could possibly go wrong next

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mgg4591 View Post
As far as fixing the threads in the cam cover, what if i fill the hole up with JB Weld then set the stud in it? Would it hold? Just wondering...

EDIT: Of course i would let it set for 24 hours before putting the nut on.
You will have to helicoil it and then you could coat the portion of the hole below the helicoil with JB weld but it is critical to not end up trying to squeeze the JB weld with the stud. You need just the correct amount. If you get too much in there the stud will not bottom out but it will get tight.

To get the back nut off if it is not rounded off you need to use a 6 point socket, an extension and a breaker bar. If its a 3/8 drive breaker bar you will need a 2 foot chunk of pipe that will fit over the handle of the breaker bar so you can apply controlled force. MUST use a 6 point socket.

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Old 03-25-2010, 03:19 PM   #26
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Default Re: I don't know what could possibly go wrong next

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OK, i managed to get the front mount nut out after bashing it with a hammer and alot of force on the wrench. I cannot get the back nut out at all. It is not going anywhere. The front one was extremely hard and it was easily accessible. It's impossible trying to break it loose with a flimsy extension. I cut my hand pretty badly twice when trying to get it off, so i quit after it happened a third time. I'm half way there as far as getting the mount out. What should i try next?
First, put the front nut back on, and tighten it down partway anyway, so all the force isn't on that back nut. That's just making a tough job even tougher. General guide when working with multiple very tight fasteners - once you've got one started, start working on the next one before completely removing the first. Make sure you can at least get each one loose first.

What do you mean by "flimsy extension"? Did you put an extension on it, and it bent or broke? How long a breaker bar are you using? Have you tried slipping a pipe onto the breaker bar to extend the lever arm length? Make leverage your friend.

Just out of curiousity, did you have to use an extractor "bolt-out" type socket to get the front nut off, or did a plain-old six-point socket eventually work?

Oh, and some work gloves, even cheapo dollar-a-pair jersey gloves, would be advised. I kinda like the "sticky" ones with some kind of rubbery stuff on the palms and/or fingers, for grip. Even gardening gloves with those rubbery dots provide a good combination of tool grip and protection from the consequences of the occasional "ahh-$#I+" tool slip. If it's any consolation, my tailgate-foot (from Sunday) is still a little swollen and hurtin'.

Do you have a torch?

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Old 03-25-2010, 03:48 PM   #27
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Default Re: I don't know what could possibly go wrong next

The stud will twist off with a 2 foot pipe if its that stuck. The entire bracket can be removed and replaced once the mount is out of the way, if required.

madpouge, did you happen to forget where your foot was at last Sunday?

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Old 03-25-2010, 04:05 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madpogue View Post
First, put the front nut back on, and tighten it down partway anyway, so all the force isn't on that back nut. That's just making a tough job even tougher. General guide when working with multiple very tight fasteners - once you've got one started, start working on the next one before completely removing the first. Make sure you can at least get each one loose first.

What do you mean by "flimsy extension"? Did you put an extension on it, and it bent or broke? How long a breaker bar are you using? Have you tried slipping a pipe onto the breaker bar to extend the lever arm length? Make leverage your friend.

Just out of curiousity, did you have to use an extractor "bolt-out" type socket to get the front nut off, or did a plain-old six-point socket eventually work?

Oh, and some work gloves, even cheapo dollar-a-pair jersey gloves, would be advised. I kinda like the "sticky" ones with some kind of rubbery stuff on the palms and/or fingers, for grip. Even gardening gloves with those rubbery dots provide a good combination of tool grip and protection from the consequences of the occasional "ahh-$#I+" tool slip. If it's any consolation, my tailgate-foot (from Sunday) is still a little swollen and hurtin'.

Do you have a torch?
The 6 point socket wouldn't grip the rounded nut anymore so I used a regular 15mm socket, not a metric. That gripped it nicley and I was able to get it out. By flimsy I mean that it's hard to keep the extension straight on the nut. I have to hold the top of the wrench to keep to keep the extension straight on the nut while I use my other hand to try to turn it. I can get enough leverage with having to keep one hand holding the extension straight. I don't have a torch and I am using an 18 inch breaker bar.

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Old 03-25-2010, 04:25 PM   #29
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Default Re: I don't know what could possibly go wrong next

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mgg4591 View Post
The 6 point socket wouldn't grip the rounded nut anymore so I used a regular 15mm socket, not a metric. That gripped it nicley and I was able to get it out. By flimsy I mean that it's hard to keep the extension straight on the nut. I have to hold the top of the wrench to keep to keep the extension straight on the nut while I use my other hand to try to turn it. I can get enough leverage with having to keep one hand holding the extension straight. I don't have a torch and I am using an 18 inch breaker bar.
If you use the pipe, you can use one hand to steady the extension at the top to keep it straight and pull on the end of the pipe with the other. A 2' pipe will do wonders for the amount of force you can apply easily.

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Old 03-25-2010, 08:13 PM   #30
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Default Re: I don't know what could possibly go wrong next

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If you use the pipe, you can use one hand to steady the extension at the top to keep it straight and pull on the end of the pipe with the other. A 2' pipe will do wonders for the amount of force you can apply easily.
I went to autozone and saw the helicoil kits. Which one will i need for the 15mm stud? I saw individual packets of the inserts that look like little springs, but don't i need a special drill bit to insert it?

I am going back tomorrow as i just picked up the tranny fluid and temp sensor today. Hopefully the valve body comes tomorrow so i can get that fixed, and if I'm lucky i can get this mount fixed as well.

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Old 03-25-2010, 08:51 PM   #31
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Default Re: I don't know what could possibly go wrong next

They should also have the kit that includes the winder in tool, tap, inserts and the drill bit. If the hole is cleaned out of threads you will not need to drill it as its already the right size to tap out for the insert. You will run the tap in far enough that all of the insert treads into the new hole. look at the tap, its tapered. You want enough of the untapered part threaded into the hole so the insert does not bind on the stud. There is a tang on the end of the insert and after it is inserted you break that off with a small screw driver or punch. Then fish it out of the hole. be sure to clean out the hole after you tap it and before you install the insert. Dry fit your stud in the new hole and if it screws in then you can unscrew it and use the JB weld down in the hole and screw it all the way in to the bottom. When you unscrew the stud the insert may come back out, this is not unusual and that is why there are several in the kit. The kit has to match the diameter and pitch of your stud so take it with you and get the proper kit. The nut takes a 15mm wrench but the stud is either a 8mm X 1.25 or 10mm X 1.5 and IIRC its the 10 X 1.5. You will want a can of brake cleaner to blow the chips out of the hole and clean the stud. The final clean of both the hole and stud should be done with acetone so the JB weld will bond to both properly. The brake cleaner will leave a film that will prevent proper bonding. you can buy some replacement grade 10.9 nuts at a good hardware store. Be sure that you get the grade 10.9. The ones that are on there now are actually a special size nut so if you can find some at the junk yard that would be the best approach.

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Old 03-25-2010, 08:56 PM   #32
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Default Re: I don't know what could possibly go wrong next

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They should also have the kit that includes the winder in tool, tap, inserts and the drill bit. If the hole is cleaned out of threads you will not need to drill it as its already the right size to tap out for the insert. You will run the tap in far enough that all of the insert treads into the new hole. look at the tap, its tapered. You want enough of the untapered part threaded into the hole so the insert does not bind on the stud. There is a tang on the end of the insert and after it is inserted you break that off with a small screw driver or punch. Then fish it out of the hole. be sure to clean out the hole after you tap it and before you install the insert. Dry fit your stud in the new hole and if it screws in then you can unscrew it and use the JB weld down in the hole and screw it all the way in to the bottom. When you unscrew the stud the insert may come back out, this is not unusual and that is why there are several in the kit. The kit has to match the diameter and pitch of your stud so take it with you and get the proper kit. The nut takes a 15mm wrench but the stud is either a 8mm X 1.25 or 10mm X 1.5 and IIRC its the 10 X 1.5. You will want a can of brake cleaner to blow the chips out of the hole and clean the stud. The final clean of both the hole and stud should be done with acetone so the JB weld will bond to both properly. The brake cleaner will leave a film that will prevent proper bonding. you can buy some replacement grade 10.9 nuts at a good hardware store. Be sure that you get the grade 10.9. The ones that are on there now are actually a special size nut so if you can find some at the junk yard that would be the best approach.
OK, ill see what they have tomorrow. Now for getting that back bolt out this is the only extractor kit that autozone carries. I called up other places and no one carries 15mm.

Even if they had the right size, it would still be cheaper for me to pull the whole bracket from the junkyard as they said it would cost 15 dollars. This kit above is 24.99.

...
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2007 Toyota Camry 2.4, 29,600 miles
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Old 03-25-2010, 10:33 PM   #33
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Default Re: I don't know what could possibly go wrong next

I would get the bracket and bolts from the J/Y. There are 7 bolts that hold that bracket on. Be sure to use a 6 point socket to take them out and if you have to use a wrench use a box end wrench. Three on the outside and 4 on the inside. You will probably end up snapping the stud off trying to get the rear nut off so you will need the bracket and all the nuts and bolts.

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Old 03-25-2010, 10:56 PM   #34
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Default Re: I don't know what could possibly go wrong next

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I would get the bracket and bolts from the J/Y. There are 7 bolts that hold that bracket on. Be sure to use a 6 point socket to take them out and if you have to use a wrench use a box end wrench. Three on the outside and 4 on the inside. You will probably end up snapping the stud off trying to get the rear nut off so you will need the bracket and all the nuts and bolts.
OK, i am going to go tomorrow and get it. I'm also going to pick up a 24 inch breaker bar from autozone, as i will need it anyway when i do the struts and coils later on. I am going to use my existing motor mount as the mount in the junkyard on the bracket i will be getting is probably shot. When i remove the bracket on my car i will just chop the stud from the bottom and pull it through the top of the mount with the nut still attached so i can re-use the mount.

EDIT: If your wondering how i am going to get the motor mount off the JY car i am going to use that 24 inch breaker bar i am going to pick up as well as a 1/2 inch 15mm socket. Something i didn't do when i FIRST attempted to remove my mount, therefore stripping the bolts.

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Old 03-25-2010, 10:58 PM   #35
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Default Re: I don't know what could possibly go wrong next

with a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter you can use the 1/2 drive breaker bar on the back nut and it will probably come loose. Use a short 1/2 drive extension and then your socket.

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Old 03-25-2010, 11:02 PM   #36
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with a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter you can use the 1/2 drive breaker bar on the back nut and it will probably come loose. Use a short 1/2 drive extension and then your socket.
Are you talking about my car or the JY car, because the back bolt on my car is completely rounded.

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Old 03-25-2010, 11:17 PM   #37
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Default Re: I don't know what could possibly go wrong next

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with a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter you can use the 1/2 drive breaker bar on the back nut and it will probably come loose. Use a short 1/2 drive extension and then your socket.
Is this kit the one? www.autozone.com Part# 25600

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Old 03-25-2010, 11:52 PM   #38
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Default Re: I don't know what could possibly go wrong next

This is what you are looking for. http://www.cartools.com/Merchant2/me...tegory_Code=KM

Notice that they come in different diameters and thread pitch. This is why you have to match the pitch of the stud. The kits do not come with a drill bit but that is usually not a problem if you have a completely stripped out hole. When tapping the hole you turn the tap in till it just gets tight and then back it out a half turn to break the chips and then advance it again. It will cut the aluminum very easily.

NAPA has these kits and so does Advance and probably Autozone but for some reason I can not get it to come up on any of their sites.

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Old 03-26-2010, 12:14 AM   #39
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Default Re: I don't know what could possibly go wrong next

Replacing the bracket will fix this one issue. The tool set will last you your lifetime. That Autozone set looks about like the set at Harbor Freight, except in a fancy blow-molded box. Nine sockets for $20.

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Old 03-26-2010, 12:22 AM   #40
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Default Re: I don't know what could possibly go wrong next

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Replacing the bracket will fix this one issue. The tool set will last you your lifetime. That Autozone set looks about like the set at Harbor Freight, except in a fancy blow-molded box. Nine sockets for $20.
I know what you mean, but the whole reason i would need the bolt grabber is because i didn't have the right tools to begin with. If i had the longer breaker bar and 1/2 15mm socket and 1/2 driver extension, i probably wouldn't of stripped it. So i am gonna get those tomorrow.

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