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Old 10-10-2011, 12:21 PM   #41
Rains
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Default Re: SL2 Water Pump Replacement w/PICS

Thanks for the detailed DIY, hopefully I'll get this done tonight!

Quick question: How much work is it to swap the head on one of these cars? My friend Lianne was driving, waterpump gave out, and I think the head cracked from overheating ... any DIYs on head replacement?

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Old 10-10-2011, 12:34 PM   #42
katuah
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Default Re: SL2 Water Pump Replacement w/PICS

Rains, I'm not a moderator, but in the interest of saving them some time and work: Please ask that question in the technical forum, as this area is for specific how-to's. Also, please search before asking - I know that topic has been covered quite a bit, and your question is likely already answered in depth in other posts. Good luck, and welcome!

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Old 10-10-2011, 12:46 PM   #43
Rains
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Default Re: SL2 Water Pump Replacement w/PICS

my apologies, still learning my way around these forums

I thought it would be relevant, as shot waterpump can lead to warped/ cracked head, but I will ask in the technical forum/ use the search feature

Cheers!

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Old 11-29-2011, 01:46 AM   #44
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Default Re: SL2 Water Pump Replacement w/PICS

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sevillian273 View Post
I tried that. I installed a new belt in the process and it was made of a harder rubber with less grip. The pulley just slipped on it. Its a PITA to snake it around all the pulleys while fighting the tensioner so I didnt want to do that again with the old belt just to tighten the pulley. The old belt was very sticky from all the coolant dripping on it.
So you left the old belt on to re-use it to tighten the pulley back onto the pump then removed and replaced belt with new one?

Dread doing this job tomorrow lol, but this post helped me out alot..

...
2002 Saturn SL2 - 1.9L DOHC - Automatic - 90k Miles - Metallic Blue

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Old 05-03-2012, 04:13 PM   #45
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Default Over heating Saturn SL2

Here's what I have going on. The Temp light flashes the imagine which indicates "overheating/low coolant" however the temp gauge is normal.

Also, when the car idles and after I shut it off the resevoir over flows. Any suggestions. I already replaced the thermostat last fall???

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Old 06-15-2012, 11:14 AM   #46
campus189
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Happy Re: SL2 Water Pump Replacement w/PICS

Here is a video on how to replace a water pump on the S-Series as well I made.

...
1997 Saturn SL2 144,000 Miles
1997 Saturn SL1 254,000 Miles
1997 Saturn SL1 157,000 Miles
1996 Saturn SL1 97,000 Miles

Also known as FiremanCV on YouTube

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Old 07-27-2012, 08:10 PM   #47
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Default Re: SL2 Water Pump Replacement w/PICS

nice tutorial but I cannot resist on commenting on "I prefer to mix it with distilled water in a clean bucket to get the mix perfect." Its a freaking pos Saturn not a Maserati. Not to mention it doesn't make a difference. I ran mine for a month with straight water cause it was a slow leak I did not want to fix it. The car will fall apart before you have to worry the proper mix

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Old 10-02-2012, 03:58 PM   #48
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Default Re: SL2 Water Pump Replacement w/PICS

Quote:
Originally Posted by decko View Post
nice tutorial but I cannot resist on commenting on "I prefer to mix it with distilled water in a clean bucket to get the mix perfect." Its a freaking pos Saturn not a Maserati. Not to mention it doesn't make a difference. I ran mine for a month with straight water cause it was a slow leak I did not want to fix it. The car will fall apart before you have to worry the proper mix
I can't resist to rely as well.
Yea, your right.
Saturns are a POS. (sarcasm)
That's why they go 200,000 miles easy.(Properly Maintained)
Also have one at 290,00 miles.
Not many other cars can do that.
If you neglect a vehicle & it breaks down, it gets labeled a POS because of not taking care of it.

Why not run the saturn on straight water and no oil, then complain when it breaks down & label it a POS because it wasn't properly maintained.

My two children both drives saturns & call them a POS as well.
Only adding oil when the oil light comes on & adding coolant when the low coolant light comes on. This type of thinking is what gives the saturn a bad reputation.

Find a vehicle made today that runs on gas only, new off the lot that will get 45-48 Mpg.
Better yet, try to find a used vehicle that can get that kind of efficiency.
They are out there, but not many

Any vehicle properly taken care of will last a long time.

...
1997 Saturn SL2 144,000 Miles
1997 Saturn SL1 254,000 Miles
1997 Saturn SL1 157,000 Miles
1996 Saturn SL1 97,000 Miles

Also known as FiremanCV on YouTube

Last edited by campus189; 10-02-2012 at 04:03 PM..

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Old 10-02-2012, 04:08 PM   #49
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Default Re: SL2 Water Pump Replacement w/PICS

I take pride in the work that I do. Every car I work on receives the same quality and attention to detail no matter what it is. Shame you can't appreciate it. Now that's something I cannot fix. Boo hoo

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Old 10-02-2012, 04:35 PM   #50
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Default Re: SL2 Water Pump Replacement w/PICS

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sevillian273 View Post
I take pride in the work that I do. Every car I work on receives the same quality and attention to detail no matter what it is. Shame you can't appreciate it. Now that's something I cannot fix. Boo hoo
Thank You !

...
1997 Saturn SL2 144,000 Miles
1997 Saturn SL1 254,000 Miles
1997 Saturn SL1 157,000 Miles
1996 Saturn SL1 97,000 Miles

Also known as FiremanCV on YouTube

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Old 03-12-2013, 12:03 AM   #51
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Default Re: SL2 Water Pump Replacement w/PICS

As a new Saturn owner, I must say this is a wonderful DIY write up. I registered here just so I could tell you good job, but I will add to it as well.
  1. All of the water pump and pulley bolts are the same size, no need to keep them organized.
  2. The pulley can be loosened with the belt off. In the side of the pulley between two of the bolts is a hole you can stick a punch, drift, drill bit, or screwdriver in to stop the pulley from moving when you are breaking the bolts loose or tightening them with a 10mm wrench. This hole is easy to see through the wheel well.
  3. I used a 1/4" ratchet and a deep well 10mm socket to get at all of the bolts, all from the bottom except for the top two.
  4. The block bleeds air through the hose coming out of the throttle body, going into the coolant tank. If this hose has an internal blockage, it will not bleed the air out of the block and it WILL OVERHEAT(ask me how I know). If at some point in time, some one put stop leak in the cooling system, pull this hose from the coolant tank and blow down it. If there is no restriction, then you are good to go, if there is, clean it out...your sanity will thank you.

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Old 05-18-2013, 05:57 PM   #52
99Homecoming
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Default Re: SL2 Water Pump Replacement w/PICS

I will be attempting this as preventative maintenance in a few weeks! Thank you all for the pictures, tips and advice!

Jason

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Old 05-29-2013, 09:51 AM   #53
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Default Re: SL2 Water Pump Replacement w/PICS

Hi! I am about to work on my 2001 Saturn SL2 and this walkthrough is extremely helpful! The car mechanic wanted to charge me $250 to replace it!

Anyways, my question for anyone out there is: do you happen to know that the proper inch/pounds of torque to apply back on to the bolts? any info is a huge help!

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Old 05-31-2013, 03:39 PM   #54
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Default Re: SL2 Water Pump Replacement w/PICS

Quote:
Originally Posted by firebomb2222 View Post
Anyways, my question for anyone out there is: do you happen to know that the proper inch/pounds of torque to apply back on to the bolts? any info is a huge help!
Looks like 20 ft-lbs . . .
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24144

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Old 06-03-2013, 12:00 AM   #55
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Default Re: SL2 Water Pump Replacement w/PICS

Looks good! I got that all back in working order! I actually didn't tighten it enough... I pulled a stupid and tightened the bolts to 30 inch pounds (I think, I couldn't get my torque wrench in there so I used some math and ruff est.). I haven't seen any leakage so I'm going to act like the job is well done! Thanks for the help!

Last edited by firebomb2222; 06-03-2013 at 12:01 AM.. Reason: Misspelled wrench

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Old 08-15-2013, 10:01 PM   #56
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Default Re: SL2 Water Pump Replacement w/PICS

I know it's an old thread.. but I wanted to thank the author.. I followed it earlier this week to change my water pump on my 1996 SL2.

I also ran into problems getting the pulley bolts cracked. I tried the crow bar method used on the youtube video with no luck.

I then asked my "old man" to swing by for advice.. he said.. why not just jam a screw driver or something like that into the hole in the pulley. Sure enough.. there was a hole in the pulley between 2 of the 10mm bolts. I stuck an large allen wrench in there and turned the pulley until the wrench hit the frame. then I was able to break all 3 bolts.

Same thing when it came to putting it back on.

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Old 08-16-2013, 07:44 AM   #57
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Default Re: SL2 Water Pump Replacement w/PICS

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chazberry View Post
Okay! good! That's what I did it too.. I just wanted a second opinion on it!

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Old 09-28-2013, 11:21 AM   #58
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Default Re: SL2 Water Pump Replacement w/PICS

Thanks for the write up. I used it yesterday and all went well.

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Old 11-21-2013, 01:52 PM   #59
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Default Re: SL2 Water Pump Replacement w/PICS

Great tutorial, very thorough.

I did run into one issue.. I got as far as removing the pulley, was able to only crack loose 2 of 3 bolts. Attempted removing belt, wrapping around pulley, and applying as much tension as possible while a friend attempted to use an electric drill and socket to remove bolt (was unsuccessful). Put car back together (since I needed it to get places) and was wondering what other creative remedies you all have tried and would suggest.

I've also been following FiremanCV's YouTube video and he used a pry bar. I have a small pry bar but couldn't really figure out from watching the video exactly how he inserted the pry bar or how long his was (I don't have a strap wrench but can get one if it is highly recommended).

Thanks in advance for the suggestions.

...
2000 SL1: 208K miles (driven since 2005).
25ish MPG city, 33-35 Highway.

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Old 12-05-2013, 04:17 PM   #60
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Default Re: SL2 Water Pump Replacement w/PICS

Many thanks to Sevillian273 for his excellent writeup and great pictures! Also thanks to RichPin & campus189 for their great YouTube videos!

Just did this yesterday and looks like no leaks so I'm one happy owner. New pump (got the more expensive lifetime warranty one), belt & RTV tube for $70 incl/tax. I confess to having never really looked at the water pump, so I only noticed this problem as the wife noticed a drop on the garage floor last week. By Wednesday morning, there was a lot of fluid on the floor - good thing I changed it then. My old pump looked similar to Sevillian273's when I took it out.

Anyway, just thought I'd add a couple things here. I've got a 2000 SL2 w/165K so maybe not all these will apply to everyone, but...

1. I used the screwdriver method to get the pulley bolts on and off. It worked fairly well once I got the screwdriver in the correct positions (which is why I'm writing this to help other newbies like me). The key is lining up the screwdriver to where the handle can rest against that frame piece that kind of slants up towards the front of the car. To get them off, put the handle down (about 6 o'clock) w/the screwdriver perpendicular to the ground. To get them back on hard, I had to tuck the screwdriver with the handle towards the front of the car (and about parallel to the ground) where I couldn't really even see it very well but just held it on by feel. Also, I just had a regular old socket wrench (maybe 6" handle), and I definitely need the breaker bar over it to get the pulley bolts unstuck.

2. If you're going to the parts store and you don't have one of those angle-extensions (don't know the correct term, but the connector on the socket wrench that's got the joint in the middle so you can use your socket wrench at non-90 degree angles), I'd highly recommend getting one. I did the whole job without it, but several of the 6 pump bolts are stuck in there and would be fairly easy to get from the bottom with an angle. BTW, a breaker bar over a short socket wrench (like mine) helps a ton for getting a couple of the bolts started from the top of the car, for the access as well as the additional leverage.

3. The RTV/gasket thing seemed a bit unclear to me from all the discussions. One of the YouTube videos guys said just to spray on some liquid gasket tacky spray and that you don't need RTV. The Haynes manual actually said to put a small bead of RTV inside the gasket on the flange. Sevillian273 and a couple others (and the directions w/the pump & gasket) said to put a thin layer of RTV in the slot on the pump and stick the gasket in there then to coat the other side with RTV. I went with that approach and hopefully did it OK, but it did make me worry I'd have leaks. None so far and I'll feel 100% confident if I get another day or two with none.

4. This shows just what a total novice/newbie I am at this, but I'll say it anyway to help others. This is the first time I changed a serp belt (why did I ever pay anyone to do it for me before?!) Anyway, getting it off is a snap, pull it down a little and slip it off. But putting it back on, I was having a tough time. I was pulling it down and then because (so I thought) the new belt was a bit stiff I was trying to jam it over the torsion wheel and not getting it. Then I re-positioned the box wrench one more click to the right and pulled the torsion wheel down about twice as far as my initial pull and it just slid on very easily. D'Oh!

5. Didn't have any problems getting the pulley out - it slipped out easily through the front of the car under the A/C compressor.

Thanks to everyone here for your willingness to help. A belated big thank you to fdryer for telling me to replace the cooling temp sensor a year ago when I was having odd starting problems. That did it!

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