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Old 01-25-2010, 11:23 AM   #101
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1998 SC2
Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

With modern rings they are seated before you get out of the drive if you allow the car to fully warm up. Hastings needs to come into the modern era. The WOT runs are required/recommended for cast iron rings.

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Old 01-25-2010, 11:25 AM   #102
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

basically 2 methods, 1 drive like grandma for the first 500 miles. or do a bunch of wot pulls (make sure you engine brake to slow down dont use the brakes or push in the clutch). the 2nd method is much quicker and more satisfying.

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Old 01-25-2010, 11:29 AM   #103
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

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Originally Posted by rentfrow1 View Post
It works! It took a little while to figure out that the starter won't work without one of the electrical connectors for the automatic transmission shorted (swapped for manual). That was not mentioned on differentracing's guide. I still need to swap in the other PCM I have out of a manual car to get the SES light to go off. The only weird thing is that my turn signals don't work. I can't figure out why, but I do have an extra 10A fuse that I cannot find a home for. the strange thing is that the emergency flashers do work. Anyone have any ideas? The only other thing is that the clutch is a little soft because of air in the lines. We bled it (there is a bleeder screw on the top of the slave cylinder), and it got better; it is drivable but not very good. I had a feeling, though, because it is a junkyard part, and I was not very careful with it. I will just get a new one sometime this week. One more thing, the Hastings rings had a paper in them saying to do 3 to 5 35-55mph WOT accelerations in 5th to seat the rings. Is that really necessary?
I/P junction block (inside fuse panel) there is a spot for a TURN Sgnal 10A fuse.

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Old 01-25-2010, 12:23 PM   #104
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

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Originally Posted by OldNuc View Post
I/P junction block (inside fuse panel) there is a spot for a TURN Sgnal 10A fuse.
Sure enough, the turn signal fuse was blown (too easy). Strange that it blew, and it still doesn't explain why I had an extra fuse, but I can't find anything else that doesn't work. It is hard to tell what should and shouldn't be there, because I don't have a lot of accessories (power windows, locks, cruise, sun roof, etc.), so there are many empty spots by default.

As for the break-in, I will just drive normally (pretty much below 3k). I would tend to side with oldnuc, though, in thinking that with modern rings break-in, in the traditional sense, is pretty much ancient history/superstition. I will just take it easy until I am sure sure that everything is working as it should.

One thing I would really like to emphasize is that there is a 2-wire connector on the automatic transmission near the shift cable that must be shorted for the starter circuit to function. It is the circuit that only allows the car to start in P or N with the automatic. In all the research I did for swapping the transmission (auto to manual), I did not find any mention of this detail, and it is pretty important. Luckily the Chiltons manual has a wiring diagram.

Thanks again everyone

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Old 01-25-2010, 12:26 PM   #105
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

Quote:
Originally Posted by rentfrow1 View Post
Sure enough, the turn signal fuse was blown (too easy). Strange that it blew, and it still doesn't explain why I had an extra fuse, but I can't find anything else that doesn't work. It is hard to tell what should and shouldn't be there, because I don't have a lot of accessories (power windows, locks, cruise, sun roof, etc.), so there are many empty spots by default.

As for the break-in, I will just drive normally (pretty much below 3k). I would tend to side with oldnuc, though, in thinking that with modern rings break-in, in the traditional sense, is pretty much ancient history/superstition. I will just take it easy until I am sure sure that everything is working as it should.

One thing I would really like to emphasize is that there is a 2-wire connector on the automatic transmission near the shift cable that must be shorted for the starter circuit to function. It is the circuit that only allows the car to start in P or N with the automatic. In all the research I did for swapping the transmission (auto to manual), I did not find any mention of this detail, and it is pretty important. Luckily the Chiltons manual has a wiring diagram.

Thanks again everyone
It's been mentioned in almost every manual swap I've read including the one I did. You either stick a 30A inline fuse in the two purple wires or you run them to the neutral safety switch under the clutch pedal if you decided to install that.

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Old 01-25-2010, 01:11 PM   #106
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

Run your first real oil for about 500 to 1000 miles and keep sustained RPM below 3200. You can bump it up to 4K in lower gears after a couple of hundred miles. I do hope you changed the oil and filter immediately after the engine first started and ran for 15 minutes. You want all the extra chunks out of there immediately.

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Old 01-25-2010, 03:49 PM   #107
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

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Originally Posted by OldNuc View Post
Run your first real oil for about 500 to 1000 miles and keep sustained RPM below 3200. You can bump it up to 4K in lower gears after a couple of hundred miles. I do hope you changed the oil and filter immediately after the engine first started and ran for 15 minutes. You want all the extra chunks out of there immediately.
I did as you said:

Warm oil and coolant
Spark plugs out, PCM-B and fuel pump fuses out
Squirt of oil in each cylinder
Crank til oil pressure light off 3x
Everything together and start
Idle til fan cycles
Change oil and filter
Ready to go...

I just drove it around, and it sounds like I have an exhaust leek, but I can't hear anything abnormal from the engine bay. I will have to get under it later.

I connected up the computer I had from the junkyard, and there was no SES light, but the engine ran rough, and then the service wrench light came on. Needless to say I am back to the original computer. I should have checked the year on the donor car. There isn't some special procedure for pairing the PCM to the engine is there?

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Old 01-25-2010, 04:28 PM   #108
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

No, generally you match years and transmission type. The addition is the options that were programed. You have California and Federal emissions and auto/manual as the big ones then this list of options. It will probably be hard to read...

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Old 01-25-2010, 06:19 PM   #109
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

I have a cylinder hone, ring compressor and installer that I will gladly part with now. I also have the old automatic transmission, torque converter, flexplate, and shifter if anyone is interested. Otherwise they go to the junkyard.

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