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Old 01-13-2010, 05:19 PM   #81
rentfrow1
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

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You can only apply force to the outer periphery of the seal or you bend it. Drawing them into place does not usually offer any benefits over a proper installation tool and a big dead blow hammer, properly applied.
I was having problems before with getting them to go into the bore square by hammering, but I also did not have anything big enough to fit around the outside edge of the seal. That is the reason I was thinking drawing them into place might work better--more controllable process.

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Old 01-13-2010, 06:35 PM   #82
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

Plastic tube and a cap. Then you can tap them right in. Those short pieces of exhaust pipe that serve as connectors will work also.

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Old 01-14-2010, 10:13 AM   #83
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

Easy way to install axle seals on a manual transmission:

http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...&postcount=281

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Old 01-14-2010, 12:34 PM   #84
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

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Originally Posted by rentfrow1 View Post
Now that I think about it, I may try running a bolt all the way through the diff and pulling the seal into place by tightening the bolt against the opposite side of the housing. I will probably smear some rtv on the mating surfaces to act as installation lube and sealant, unless that is a no no.
Won't work. You cannot go through the differential the pin and spider gears are in the way.
At least you hope your pin is still in there!

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Old 01-14-2010, 01:14 PM   #85
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

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Won't work. You cannot go through the differential the pin and spider gears are in the way.
At least you hope your pin is still in there!
Oh, yeah. Good call. That saves me some pointless work. Thanks for the help again guys.

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Old 01-22-2010, 10:14 PM   #86
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

Anybody there?

Right now I am trying to replace the control arm bushings, and I can't get the stabilizer bar to control arm bushings into place. I read on another thread to just cut them down one side and put the cut toward the center. Is that the only way to do it, or is there a better way?

Thanks

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Old 01-22-2010, 11:07 PM   #87
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

Is it the 2 piece bushing or single piece? Usually the bushing is installed in the LCA and then the sway bar is inserted into the LCA. Washer ad nut loosely applied and the the assembly is worked into position by a big ratchet strap on the sway bar.

The process is similar to that required to stuff a wet noodle in a wildcat.

Last edited by OldNuc; 01-22-2010 at 11:13 PM..

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Old 01-23-2010, 12:29 AM   #88
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

It is the one piece bushing. Do I really just assemble it and tighten the nut to push it into place? I just finished pressing in the LCA to cradle bushings, finally.

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Old 01-23-2010, 12:53 AM   #89
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

The bushing goes into the eye in the LCA and then the washer goes on the outside of the bar followed by the nut. The concave face of the outer washer faces out towards the nut. Some people have dropped the bar so they can get it into the LCA. Sometimes it takes a ratchet strap across the entire bar to pull the ends in so both ends can be inserted into the LCA. One side is easy, its the other one that is a bit tough.

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Old 01-23-2010, 02:51 AM   #90
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

But how do you get the rubber bushing inserted into the hole in the LCA? The old ones were deteriorated, and I cut them out. Now I can't get the new ones through the hole in the LCA. I can't imagine that just tightening down the anti roll bar nuts will pull the bushings into place.

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Old 01-23-2010, 09:24 AM   #91
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

A very low viscosity silicone lube so tat it will vaporize out of the part later. The spay cans of silicone will work. Then tale a piece of shim stock and make a "funnel" that wraps around the lubed bushing and place the end of your funnel into the eye. Press in the bushing. You have to use a press in most cases.

Usually the LCA drops out of the box with those bushings installed. Are you replacing just he bushings in the existing LCA or installing Energy Suspension polly replacements?

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Old 01-23-2010, 11:10 AM   #92
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

I am using the old control arms with new MOOG bushings. The cradle bushings were beginning to rust out, and we had to cut the bolts off. We damaged one of the stabalizer bar bushings when we took the bar off, so I am replacing them too. I would have replaced the LCA assemblies, but they are nearly $100 each. The bushings were $30 total.

I don't really have access to a press. Should I take the control arms to a shop, or will it work to just cut the bushings? They sell 2-piece buhsings anyway. Can't I just make 2-piece buhsings out of the ones I have? This is the only thing I have left to do other than putting in the engine today (minor detail).

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Old 01-23-2010, 11:43 AM   #93
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

A couple of big washers, a long carriage bolt and a socket will make a press to pull the bushing through the eye. The polly 2 piece bushing is the easy way to do it but they are a special overlapping design. Easy is a relative term...

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Old 01-23-2010, 11:47 AM   #94
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

You could try cutting the bushing as the worst that will happen is that it will klunk and you will have to do it over.

This place looks to be about the best of the low cost LCA/Tie Rod ends place. http://stores.ebay.com/Arm-Can-Auto-...&submit=Search

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Old 01-23-2010, 01:58 PM   #95
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

I just cut it. If it does clunk later I can just replace the LCA's. I just want to get this car back together this weekend.

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Old 01-24-2010, 12:43 AM   #96
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

My car has been engined! Everything is together and connected. We will fill it with fluids and start it tomorrow (fingers crossed). The only hang ups were that the nut for one of the terminals on the starter was missing, and I had to get a new one. We had to take the PS pump back off once to get the intake manifold to block brace under it on the stud. I need to go the the pick n pull to get the C-clip that holds one of the shift cables to the transmission, and the reverse light switch connector for the top of the transmission, because it is different on the manual transmission.

Thanks for all the help everyone!

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Old 01-24-2010, 12:58 AM   #97
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

For wiring the reverse light connector for the new transmission differentracing says it is the "Dark blue and light green wires from automatic transaxle shift selector switch connect to this switch". Those are from the 4 or 5 wire connector in the area where the shift cable connects right? The polarity probably doesn't matter either, right?

Also, is the connector for the clutch pedal switch already part of the automatic wiring harness, or will I have to wire one into the ignition circuit?

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Old 01-24-2010, 08:51 AM   #98
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

No problem with the reverse light switch, just connect it up. Either wire to either terminal.

Be sure to prime the oil system by cranking it on the starter with the PCM B fuse pulled until the oil pressure light goes out. You really do not want to tear up a new engine. Once it starts just let it sit and idle till the fan cycles on and off. then shut it off and change the oil and filter. Before priming the oil system pull the plugs and put a squirt of oil in each cylinder and the priming is done with the plugs out. Fill the oil filter with oil and squirt oil into the oil pump outlet hole in the filter base. Fill with warmed oil or this will take a bit of cranking.

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Old 01-25-2010, 12:30 AM   #99
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

It works! It took a little while to figure out that the starter won't work without one of the electrical connectors for the automatic transmission shorted (swapped for manual). That was not mentioned on differentracing's guide. I still need to swap in the other PCM I have out of a manual car to get the SES light to go off. The only weird thing is that my turn signals don't work. I can't figure out why, but I do have an extra 10A fuse that I cannot find a home for. the strange thing is that the emergency flashers do work. Anyone have any ideas? The only other thing is that the clutch is a little soft because of air in the lines. We bled it (there is a bleeder screw on the top of the slave cylinder), and it got better; it is drivable but not very good. I had a feeling, though, because it is a junkyard part, and I was not very careful with it. I will just get a new one sometime this week. One more thing, the Hastings rings had a paper in them saying to do 3 to 5 35-55mph WOT accelerations in 5th to seat the rings. Is that really necessary?

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Old 01-25-2010, 10:45 AM   #100
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

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One more thing, the Hastings rings had a paper in them saying to do 3 to 5 35-55mph WOT accelerations in 5th to seat the rings. Is that really necessary?
This is where it gets interesting. It comes down to personal preference I think. Some say drive it like you stole it, others say to take it easy. A gamble really, as both methods have had positive results.

I kept it in the middle for my break in. I drove it normally, but not going over 4K until after 100 miles. Car works great now and see sustained 5K - 6Krpm during races with no issues

Your call really.

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