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Old 12-24-2009, 01:36 PM   #61
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

And, if you have an automatic dishwasher you can clean the steel parts in it. Do not wash bolts though as they can rust on you.

I mean you already discovered the bathtub wash tank, might as well go for the automatic hot washer. Then there is the 180F paint curing oven.

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Old 12-24-2009, 01:48 PM   #62
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

When you say to remove all the steel parts, does that include the alignment dowel pins that are pressed in around many of the bolt holes in the block?

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Old 12-24-2009, 02:49 PM   #63
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

No, just the bracketry and all bolted removable parts. Leave the pressed in dowels in place.

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Old 12-24-2009, 02:57 PM   #64
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

Questions not answered yet:
  • One alignment dowel broken off flywheel during resurfacing. Does it matter?
  • Oil pump: how do you measure to see if it is in spec? The lobes are a little nicked, but don't look worn down.
  • Is heating the timing cover in the oven to remove the oil pressure relief valve a good idea, or will it even work?
New questions:
  • The Loctite 518 should work well for the transmission housing, right? I had it apart to clean the magnet and weld the diff pin.
  • What fasteners need threadlocker? I think it was just the oil pump cover, right?
  • I ended up with two electrical connectors labeled CPS. What could the other one be? I have the oil pressure sensor, knock sensor, CPS, and CCPS, but I don't know what the 5th connection is for. I think it came from near the CCPS and CPS area.
  • Should I replace my PCV valve? I replaced it soon after I got the car, and never worried about it. The little weight/magnet still rattles around in it, and I have cleaned it a few times.

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Old 12-24-2009, 02:58 PM   #65
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldNuc View Post
No, just the bracketry and all bolted removable parts. Leave the pressed in dowels in place.
Yeah, the painted brackets would come out nice and silver I bet.

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Old 12-24-2009, 04:30 PM   #66
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

Quote:
Originally Posted by rentfrow1 View Post
Questions not answered yet:
  • One alignment dowel broken off flywheel during resurfacing. Does it matter? Most likely not. They are just used for alignment. Be extra careful now though
  • Oil pump: how do you measure to see if it is in spec? The lobes are a little nicked, but don't look worn down. Just replace it
  • Is heating the timing cover in the oven to remove the oil pressure relief valve a good idea, or will it even work? Just use a socket and a hammer
New questions:
  • The Loctite 518 should work well for the transmission housing, right? I had it apart to clean the magnet and weld the diff pin.
  • What fasteners need threadlocker? I think it was just the oil pump cover, right? Thats it. Nothing else
  • I ended up with two electrical connectors labeled CPS. What could the other one be? I have the oil pressure sensor, knock sensor, CPS, and CCPS, but I don't know what the 5th connection is for. I think it came from near the CCPS and CPS area. Power steering or alternator. All in the same area.
  • Should I replace my PCV valve? I replaced it soon after I got the car, and never worried about it. The little weight/magnet still rattles around in it, and I have cleaned it a few times.
PCV should be fine

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Old 12-25-2009, 12:28 PM   #67
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

Merry Christmas!

Definitely not the PS or Alternator. It came from the flywheel end of the engine, near the CCPS and CPS. It looked like there was a fuel line connection near there. Is there a fuel pressure sensor or something back there?

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Old 12-25-2009, 02:19 PM   #68
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

Quote:
Originally Posted by rentfrow1 View Post
Questions not answered yet:
  • One alignment dowel broken off flywheel during resurfacing. Does it matter?
Quote:
Originally Posted by OldNuc
Replace the gone dowel. You turn the flywheel over and punch them out from the back side with a drift punch. They are critical to the proper operation of the clutch cover. The bolts only hold the cover to the flywheel and the dowels prevent rotation of the cover. The dowel fits relatively tight into the mating hole in the cover. Looks like a trip to the scrap yard.
He said it on the last page.

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Old 12-30-2009, 01:09 PM   #69
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

Quote:
Originally Posted by rentfrow1 View Post
edit: Just kidding. I forgot the chain $52. Cloyes it is.
$27 at Auto Zone

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Old 01-01-2010, 08:30 PM   #70
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

We got the crank in. When we were putting the pistons in, we found that one of them was cracked along the edge. Now I am waiting to get new sealed power pistons. Someday I will hopefully get my car back together.

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Old 01-01-2010, 08:35 PM   #71
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

Aint it just lovely....

I just got my crank back & they effed it up. gouge on the #1 main & a big scratch on the #1 rod journal.

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Old 01-01-2010, 10:03 PM   #72
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

To avoid damaging the new pistons when you install them here is how I did it:

Getting them in, even with a decent ring compressor is just plain not easy.

At first I try a light tap with a rubber mallet. NO GOOD! Doesn't work.

I finally figured out how to do it.

Its not tapping or banging it that is needed.

What is needed is simply a push. Click link for some pictures to demonstrate what I mean.

http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...&postcount=234

I put an upside down plastic top from a peanut butter jar (small size) on top of the piston. I then put the head of a rubber mallet on top. I then put my whole weight into it, leaning into it, with my hand on top with my arm in an angle so my body weight is pushing on my hand pushing down on the rubber mallet. You just have to keep the ring compressor tight and flat and keep pushing. At first nothing happens and then all of a sudden "swoosh" the whole piston just slides in. You don't go from ring to ring, the whole thing slides in. Make sure you put a lot of lube on the piston and rings and the cylinder is lubed. Lube it up like a "greased pig"!

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Old 01-12-2010, 04:26 PM   #73
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

The engine is completely built and ready to be put back in. I forgot to bring the camera with me though, so no pictures. We did not have any trouble putting in the pistons. I put the handle of a rubber mallet on the top of the piston and hit the other end with my hand. The pistons all slid in easily, but it was also cold in the garage, probably 30-40F with the heater on. The only real trouble was cleaning out a couple bolt holes on the head that had crud in the bottom from the hot tanking. I also bent the new axle shaft seals trying to get them into the transmission, but they are cheap. Now I am just waiting for time to mate up the transmission and drop it in. I am currently trying to figure out creative ways to get the engine warmed up before starting it. Warm oil, warm coolant, maybe bring the engine inside overnight. It may not be that big of an issue, though.

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Old 01-12-2010, 06:32 PM   #74
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

Get it warm if you do not want to start the engine dry of oil. Be sure to pull the PCM B fuse and the plugs and then crank it on the starter until the oil light goes off. Prime the oil pump through its discharge port, that is the square hole in the side of the filter base. Also fill the oil filter full of oil. Find an old hot plate the kind that gets red hot and slide it under the engine oil pan. The radiant heat will gently warm it all up. The old 2 burner coffee pot warmers are 1500 watts. Also any of the salamanders that blow hot air will get it warm or keep it warm.

Once you get the oil light to go out as soon as you hit the key put the plugs back in and the PCM B fuse and start it up and let it sit and idle till the fan cycles on and then off. Shut it off and change the oil and filter. Not restart it and go for a gentle drive, keep the RPM below 3000. After 30 minutes or so it is all broke in and the rings are definitely seated.

Make sure that the rings will properly fit the new pistons. The top ring grove can be 1.2mm or 1.5mm. A 1.2mm ring in a 1.5mm grove is a major disaster.

Before cranking the engine to prime the oil system put a squirt of oil in each cylinder and be sure to use assembly lube on the pistons and rings.

Last edited by OldNuc; 01-12-2010 at 06:39 PM..

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Old 01-12-2010, 06:54 PM   #75
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

^^^+1

And also pour some oil over the cams if you have not done so before you put the cover on.

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Old 01-13-2010, 12:17 PM   #76
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

I put assembly lube on all the cam lobes and the timing chain, and I dipped all the lifters and rockers in oil before installing them. The rings fit properly in the pistons. They are 1.2mm top rings. They were a much more precise fit in the new pistons than the old ones. I probably will not get around to putting the engine in and starting it until next weekend because of school. Unfortunately graduating is more important than getting my car back.

Any tips on putting the new axle seals into the transmission? I am going to try to find something that matches the diameter of each seal. Maybe I can rig something up to fit into the diff that will hold everything square to the bore.

On another note, I don't have to do anything with the unused transmission cooling lines to the radiator, since I am switching to a manual, do I? The bottom hose is stuck in the radiator, and I will probably just cut it off.

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Old 01-13-2010, 12:25 PM   #77
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

Yes graduating is slightly more important Otherwise you'll have a car but no job to drive it to haha

Search Axle seals. Some people have come up with nice tools for this.

Yes, the cooler lines are useless for you now.

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Old 01-13-2010, 12:29 PM   #78
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

Quote:
Originally Posted by rentfrow1 View Post
I put assembly lube on all the cam lobes and the timing chain, and I dipped all the lifters and rockers in oil before installing them. The rings fit properly in the pistons. They are 1.2mm top rings. They were a much more precise fit in the new pistons than the old ones. I probably will not get around to putting the engine in and starting it until next weekend because of school. Unfortunately graduating is more important than getting my car back.

Any tips on putting the new axle seals into the transmission? I am going to try to find something that matches the diameter of each seal. Maybe I can rig something up to fit into the diff that will hold everything square to the bore.

On another note, I don't have to do anything with the unused transmission cooling lines to the radiator, since I am switching to a manual, do I? The bottom hose is stuck in the radiator, and I will probably just cut it off.
Go get a PVC piece of pipe or coupling so you can drive the seals into place.

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Old 01-13-2010, 03:14 PM   #79
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

Now that I think about it, I may try running a bolt all the way through the diff and pulling the seal into place by tightening the bolt against the opposite side of the housing. I will probably smear some rtv on the mating surfaces to act as installation lube and sealant, unless that is a no no.

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Old 01-13-2010, 03:31 PM   #80
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

You can only apply force to the outer periphery of the seal or you bend it. Drawing them into place does not usually offer any benefits over a proper installation tool and a big dead blow hammer, properly applied.

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