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Old 12-12-2009, 06:05 PM   #21
OldNuc
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1998 SC2
Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

Its just a slip fit. Put the bolt back without the washer and use a gear puller on it. Hook the spokes, not the rim. Once it starts moving it will slide right off.

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Old 12-12-2009, 08:11 PM   #22
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

Got it. Everything is apart now except the crank. We are taking a dinner break. Any tips on getting the main caps off? One of them seems loose, but won't lift off.

The timing set was fairly worn. The tensioner was extended about 5/8". I will replace all the timing components.

If there is a ridge on the bores it was not big enough to prevent us from having any trouble sliding the pistons out. The pistons look great other than the carbon. There are virtually no scratches on the skirts.

The valve train was surprising to see, because there are cam followers. The valves are not directly actuated.

The other thing I found was that we can't get the control arms off of the cradle. The bolts are loose, but they bind in the inner sleve in the rubber bushing and spin it. I was having problems with a wierd rattle in the suspension only when it is cold. This may be the cause of the poblem.

More info and pics later. I have to eat.

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Old 12-12-2009, 10:34 PM   #23
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

Quote:
Originally Posted by rentfrow1 View Post
Got it. Everything is apart now except the crank. We are taking a dinner break. Any tips on getting the main caps off? One of them seems loose, but won't lift off.

There is a hollow dowel on each side. Gentle prying on each side will work.

The timing set was fairly worn. The tensioner was extended about 5/8". I will replace all the timing components.

This is definitely a good plan. Full used up is about 1" extension.

If there is a ridge on the bores it was not big enough to prevent us from having any trouble sliding the pistons out. The pistons look great other than the carbon. There are virtually no scratches on the skirts.

There is a cross hatch pattern in the skirts. Clean one and look and see if you can still see it on the thrust faces. Check the bore on the thrust axis for a ridge. If you can feel it then its about .002 and 24lb printer paper is .004 thick.

The valve train was surprising to see, because there are cam followers. The valves are not directly actuated.

You get to disassemble those and clean them also. See Here. http://www.differentracing.com/tech_...es/lifter.html

The other thing I found was that we can't get the control arms off of the cradle. The bolts are loose, but they bind in the inner sleve in the rubber bushing and spin it. I was having problems with a wierd rattle in the suspension only when it is cold. This may be the cause of the poblem.

Pneumatic cutoff wheel works well. Be careful and don't nick the cradle or bracket.

More info and pics later. I have to eat.
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Old 12-12-2009, 10:41 PM   #24
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

Here are some pics.

IMG_6218.jpg

IMG_6224.jpg

IMG_6229.jpg

IMG_6233.jpg

IMG_6234.jpg

IMG_6235.jpg

IMG_6236.jpg

IMG_6240.jpg

IMG_6241.jpg

IMG_6245.jpg

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Old 12-12-2009, 10:43 PM   #25
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

I will be watching this one.

Ive got my 96 Sl1 apart & am cleaning the pistons tonight.

I was going to buy some chem dip, but the liquid paint remover I have left from another project is working very well.

I have never gone more than 3-4 K between oil changes & was amazed at the garbage on the pistons.

After this engine is broke in, it going to be full synthetic.

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Old 12-12-2009, 10:46 PM   #26
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

I don't see any lifters like the cylindrical ones. One end of the cam follower rests on the end of the valve, and it looks like the other end is on a little nipple. Check out the pics of the valve train. All I see is the top of the valve spring retainer.

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Old 12-12-2009, 11:08 PM   #27
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

The roller rocker is sitting on the hydraulic lifter or valve lash adjuster. They come out and come apart.

Berryman Chem Dip is worth the $20.00 for cleaning small parts.

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Old 12-14-2009, 02:19 PM   #28
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

I have a few questions:

Is sending the fuel injectors to witchhunter for cleaning worth the money if I was not previously having issues with the injectors?

The rubber boot on one of the shift cables (trans. end) is broken. Is there a place to get a replacement one, or should I do like others and zip tie an innertube over it?

My ball joints do not feel sloppy, but they also do not feel tight. The ones on the tie rod ends "spring" back to the center if you move them and let go. The ones on the control arms are easy to move but do not spring back. Do they need replaced, or is that how they are? I will probably be replacing the wheel bearings in a year or two, because they are just barely starting to make noise it think (my tires are kind of loud, so it is hard to tell). I can probably let the ball joints go until then right?

As for the engine, it is in pieces in my trunk ready to take to the machine shop and/or clean. I have a (very) hot water pressure washer that whoudl make quick work of the block. Everything looks really good. There is practically no ridge on the bores. The pistons look fairly clean, but the oil control rings are stuck. The crank journals are all really smooth, and there were only one or two marks in the main bearings. The exhaust valves all have white soot on them from all the burning oil. I will report back when I get a chance to measure the crank journals. Until all the machining is done all I have to do is install a clutch pedal for my new (manual) transmission.

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Old 12-14-2009, 02:23 PM   #29
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

That engine looks like it was run HOT and with little oil at some point.

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Old 12-14-2009, 02:27 PM   #30
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

Quote:
Originally Posted by rentfrow1 View Post
I have a few questions:

Is sending the fuel injectors to witchhunter for cleaning worth the money if I was not previously having issues with the injectors?

How do you know you were not having a problem? I would either ship them of or buy new ones.

The rubber boot on one of the shift cables (trans. end) is broken. Is there a place to get a replacement one, or should I do like others and zip tie an innertube over it?

The 700mm bike tube is what to make one out of.

My ball joints do not feel sloppy, but they also do not feel tight. The ones on the tie rod ends "spring" back to the center if you move them and let go. The ones on the control arms are easy to move but do not spring back. Do they need replaced, or is that how they are? I will probably be replacing the wheel bearings in a year or two, because they are just barely starting to make noise it think (my tires are kind of loud, so it is hard to tell). I can probably let the ball joints go until then right?

Either ball joint should have resistance and stay where you put it. The wheel bearing will fail very rapidly once it starts to go. More than likely you can schedule a front end overhaul for in the future and start collecting parts and funds without any immediate risk.

As for the engine, it is in pieces in my trunk ready to take to the machine shop and/or clean. I have a (very) hot water pressure washer that whoudl make quick work of the block. Everything looks really good. There is practically no ridge on the bores. The pistons look fairly clean, but the oil control rings are stuck. The crank journals are all really smooth, and there were only one or two marks in the main bearings. The exhaust valves all have white soot on them from all the burning oil. I will report back when I get a chance to measure the crank journals. Until all the machining is done all I have to do is install a clutch pedal for my new (manual) transmission.
Measure the block, then decide on what to do with the pistons.

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Old 12-14-2009, 02:51 PM   #31
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

um white ash on the exhaust valves indicates running lean not burning oil, oil would leave a black soot (different than the black soot from running rich).

...
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Old 12-14-2009, 03:14 PM   #32
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

In the past when I have changed my spark plugs I have noticed white ash on the electrodes. When I looked it up it the consensus seemed to be the white ash was from burning oil/fuel additives. I assumed that was from all the oil I was burning and didn't worry about it. I really would have a hard time believing that this engine has anything seriously wrong with it, because I have taken good care of it, and I have never had any serious problems with it.

The engine has never run more than a quart low on oil, and it has never run roughly except for the few times that it had trouble starting because of a failing CPS that has been replaced. The engine has never overheated either. Of course I can't vouch for anything that happened before I got it, but I got it at 36000 mi.

OldNuc: When I say I have not had problems with the injectors, I mean that I have not experienced any obvious symptoms of them failing. That is not to say that they are pristine. I have never touched them. I just wanted to make sure that it is worth $80 or so to clean injectors that seem fine.

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Old 12-14-2009, 03:37 PM   #33
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

It looks like white ash is from burning oil/fuel additives accrding to other sites...

http://www.fordmuscle.com/forums/all...st-valves.html

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2510157

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Old 12-16-2009, 02:11 PM   #34
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

Everything is at the machine shop now. They were even willing to drill the oil drain holes in the pistons for $10 each. A little steep I know, but I don't have access to a good drill press.

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Old 12-16-2009, 08:13 PM   #35
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

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They were even willing to drill the oil drain holes in the pistons for $10 each.
I sure hope you mean $10 per piston?!?

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Old 12-16-2009, 08:40 PM   #36
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

With oil burning engines, they usually leave oilly sludge on the plugs. White ash is usually associated with lean fuel ratios, but if your ECTS was not brass this could be the issue.

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Old 12-16-2009, 09:41 PM   #37
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

The center electrode and the tip of the ground electrode are hot enough to burn the oil to a yellow/white ash. Those are the additives in the oil. The outer shell end will have a relatively hard carbon deposit and the center porcelain will be white on the tip and if you look all the way back into the shell you will see a carbon buildup. This is normal for well used plugs of the correct heat range. ECTS problems usually result in a rich condition and you will find more carbon on the plug. And the carbon deposit will be softer.

Reading spark plugs is a lot like reading chicken entrails.
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Old 12-17-2009, 08:57 PM   #38
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

I replaced the ECTS and connector around 40000mi. You can't have carbon build up and a lean-burning engine at the same time can you? I have never heard the engine "ping" or miss since I have had the car. It has always run smooth except for when the cps failed, and it ran really rough at startup in the cold. My last 3 sets of plugs all had the white deposits, so that is not a new issue.

Getting the holes drilled was $10/piston. Sorry for not being clear.

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Old 12-18-2009, 11:10 AM   #39
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

Ok, I am trying to order parts through the machine shop. I am getting Clevite bearings (main and rod). For piston rings they have hastings and can get sealed power. I see on federal mogul's website that they stop giving the piston ring part number at 1998. Is there a difference for 1999 and later? I found :

E-933K 1.2mm top ring (95-98)
E-932K 1.5mm top ring (91-94)

RockAuto says the oil control ring for 99 is 2.5mm, but the sealed power rings are all 3.0mm. Is there another sealed power part number, or should I get another brand? If anyone can provied part numbers that would be very helpful. I will have the shop measure the ring grooves.

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Old 12-18-2009, 11:55 AM   #40
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Default Re: '99 SL2 Engine Rebuild

Quote:
Originally Posted by rentfrow1 View Post
I replaced the ECTS and connector around 40000mi. You can't have carbon build up and a lean-burning engine at the same time can you? I have never heard the engine "ping" or miss since I have had the car. It has always run smooth except for when the cps failed, and it ran really rough at startup in the cold. My last 3 sets of plugs all had the white deposits, so that is not a new issue.

Getting the holes drilled was $10/piston. Sorry for not being clear.

Yes, you will have black deposits on well used plugs. If you do not then they are running way too hot. All engines consume some oil and there is carbon in gas, its a hydrocarbon. The vast majority of those plug reading charts are of minimal value as they originate from the leaded gas, carburetor era. None are pictures of plugs that have been run with the gas/alcohol blends.

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