Top Motor Mount Stud Nuts Stuck

[Saturn1998SL1]

I replaced my motor mount without any problems ( I hope ).

I followed the instructions in this video ( very helpful ):

youtube.com/watch?v=zaugUfILmGE[/url]

The only difference between the video was that when I unscrewed the stud nuts they stuck. Instead all three studs unscrewed from the engine ( in the video the nuts unscrewed and the studs stayed put ). I was able to screw the studs back on without any troubles. The stud nuts are rusty but they appear to have plenty of strength in them.

Should I be concerned about this at all?

By the way, the car is very quiet now. No more vibrations. What a world of difference this makes.

[off-track]

Yeah, mine did the same thing when I replaced the mount. If you look at the top end of the studs there are flats so that you put a wrench on and back off the nuts if they come loose. I don't exactly recall the size though.. maybe 7mm?

The FSM spec's that you clean all the rust off the studs and install the studs with locktite #242 and torque the studs to 18 lb. ft. (not much) and then install the TAM and torque the mount nuts to 37 lb. ft. I don't think I used the torque wrench on either as they are both not much more than firmly secured? Just as long as the studs were snug (or close to fully seated) in the front cover I wouldn't sweat it.

[OldNuc]

The studs may be torqued into the cover at 10 to 18ft-lb its not critical as long as they are actually at the bottom of the hole. Take the weight off the mount and torque the mounting stud nuts evenly to 37ft-lb. That means go to 15ft-lb then 28ft-lb then 37ft-lb in an alternate stud sequence. Clean the bottom of the mount and the top of the timing cover before installing the mount. If you do not clean and torque properly then you run the risk of either a cracked timing cover or snapped studs.

Follow the richpin video mount replacement video instructions for equalizing the dogbone preload.

[Saturn1998SL1]

The job is done right now.

Studs were removed from engine. Nuts were removed from studs with 6 mm socket on stud-end leveraged against 15 mm wrench on the nut. I cleaned the studs and the nuts with WD 40 first. Then I cleaned them again with break cleaner...recommended by auto parts store because it leaves no residue??

Next I cleaned the top of the mount and bottom of the timing cover with break cleaner.

Finally I put everything back together. 10 Foot lbs for studs into cover...locktite 242 used. Evenly torqued 37 ft lbs for mounting nuts.

[lets blaze]

good to hear.