VUE Class III Trailer Hitch Install

[WeeeZer14]

Well Friday I decided to cut out of work a little early since it was like 60 degrees (F) out and a Nor'Easter will be beating us all weekend. Figured it was a good time to install my trailer hitch I've had sitting around since before I even picked up my VUE

I went with an after-market hitch because I wanted a Class III and the one through Saturn is Class II. I do not need the extra load capacity, but I installed a class III on my Jimmy therefore I already have a collection of Class III accessories. (Class II is 1 1/4" box and Class III is 2" box reciever.)

First off, the hitch is a Draw-Tite Model 75134 Class 3 hitch. I picked it up at etrailer.com for $99. (The pictures at etrialer.com are more accurate than those at Draw-Tite.)

The directions that came with the hitch are sufficient. Just make sure you listen to what they say. You need to fish a total of four bolts through various parts of the frame. If you mess up I guess you could end up with a bolt in the nether regions of you VUE rattling and anoying you until the end of time.

Two bolts need to be fished up into holes on bottom of the side frame rails. I just electrical taped about a foot of 12 guage wire to the end of the bolt and threaded that through the large square washer that sits in the frame. Push the bolt through the hole head first, then the washer (while keeping a hold of the wire) then once the washer is in, pull on the wire to pull the bolt though the washer and out the hole. Repeat on the other side.

The trickier part is the two bolts in the middle of the bumper frame. I took my electrical fish tape and sent it throgh those center bolt holes and out to the sides of the bumper. Once I pulled the tape out of the bumper area, I hooked on a six inch or so piece of wire with the bolt and washer attached as before. Then I just reeled the fish tape back in (slowly) making sure I guided everything into the end of the bumper frame so nothing got caught up. A little wiggle and out comes the tape, wire, and bolt threads. You could probably do the same with a decent length of wire if you do not have a fish tape.

I found the wire a bit too thick to be able to fit through the holes on the the trailer hitch frame, so at this point I removed my wire leads and replaced them with electrical tape tails. Just make sure you don't push any bolts back up into the frame rails -- I don't know how you would get them back out.

Now position the hitch under the vehicle. I found a pair of milk crates to be at the right height to hold the hitch frame up off the ground and just a few inched shy of where it needed to be. At this height you can fish your electrical tape tails into the respective holes on the hitch frame.

Pick a side and carefully raise the hitch into position using the electrical tape tails to make sure you don't push a bolt up into the frame. I put a bolt a few turns into one of the side of the side frame rail (as opposed to the bottom of the side frame rail) holes to hold it in place and then fastend the washer and nut to the bottom of the side frame rail bolt that was fished in earlier. Do not tighten the nut, but get it on there so it wont slip off. Keep the milk crates under at all times just in case. Move to the other side and repeat. Now you can hand tighten those two nuts.

Next I moved to the two bumber frame bolts that were fished earlier. Just put some pressure on the bottom of the hitch to raise it into position and hand tighten.

Now if you were like me, take out any bolts you temporarily put into the side of the side frame rail bolt holes and re-install them with their washers. There are two of these side bolts on each side and they are hex-headed bolts while the others (the fished ones) are rounded cariage bolt-type heads.

Make sure everything looks seated correctly while it is handtightened, then if all is good, tighten away to the listed torques on the instructions. And you can move those milk crates out of the way too.

It took me about an hour including taking all my tools and stuff out of my garage to get set up and the only help I had were those two milk crates. The idea of fishing those bolts through the frame had me concerned, but it was quite easy in the end. It was dark by the time I was done and it is raining all weekend so I don't have pictures just yet, maybe Monday or Tuesday.

My next task is to attach the trailer wiring harness. I know where the loop of wire is in the rear (left hand side of rear cargo area, remove "milk jug" storage well, along wall near jack) but does anyone know the best way to route the wires out? It was dark so I couldn't see much. Is there a hole to the outside or do I need to make one?

I hope this is helpful to people and welcome any suggestions for the wire running part!

[WeeeZer14]

Well it took a while but I finally got the chance to snap some pictures.

Here is a before and after shot. You can see how the hitch hides the muffler nicely



More pics can be found in my Member Gallery.

P.S. to Charlie - I should have thought of this when I posted the first message, but this thread may fit better in Mods and Performance?

[skijay]

Thanks for posting a picture. I was going to create a post and ask if someone would post a pic of a VUE w/trailer hitch. It looks good, I guess I will go with this as opposed to the cross bars.

[WeeeZer14]

Originally posted by skijay
Thanks for posting a picture. I was going to create a post and ask if someone would post a pic of a VUE w/trailer hitch. It looks good, I guess I will go with this as opposed to the cross bars.

Remember, this is an aftermarket hitch. If you are looking to get your through the retailer, I do not know what that looks like specifically (I think OhioVueBoy has the Saturn hitch). And in my member gallery are more detailed pictures of my hitch if you haven't looked already.

Also, if you have to have just one (hitch vs. roof cross bars) I'd say to go with the cross bars unless you are sure you have something to mount to the hitch. Unless you have a need now, you will probably need to pick up some plywood at Home Depot and strap it to your roof before you find that need. Just my opinion though and of course my choice was to get both

[skijay]

I need a way to transport the mountain bikes. The cross bars with appropriate Thule trays will be $550. The trailer hitch and Thule hitch carrier will be $350.

[OhioVueBoy]

Yep, I have the wonderful, beautiful Saturn hitch. I will post a pic when I get a good new one of it soon.
~D.J.~

[WeeeZer14]

Originally posted by skijay
I need a way to transport the mountain bikes. The cross bars with appropriate Thule trays will be $550. The trailer hitch and Thule hitch carrier will be $350.

Okay, if you want to transport bikes (one of my primary uses actually) then go with the hitch. I am 6'7" so reaching the roof isn't a problem, but I don't care what your height is, I do not find the roof mounted bike carriers convienient.

[John]

This past weekend I installed the same Draw-Tite hitch as David did on our new 2004 VUE and took a few more pictures that go along with David's narration.

CLICK ON ANY IMAGE TO SEE A LARGER VERSION

[John]

And a few more...

CLICK ON ANY IMAGE TO SEE A LARGER VERSION



Hope this is of interest.

[erskineVUE]

John.....Those pics are great. I just installed the same hitch myself. I have yet to start on the wiring though. Have you done any of the wiring for trailer lights? If so, share those pics as well.

[John]

Thanks

No wiring yet (I think there are some pictures in the Member Galleries of someone who did do their wiring) but when I do, I will document it )

[pmj]

Originally posted by WeeeZer14
First off, the hitch is a Draw-Tite Model 75134 Class 3 hitch. I picked it up at etrailer.com for $99. (The pictures at etrialer.com are more accurate than those at Draw-Tite.)

How did you get this for $99?

[04BlueVue]

Dave

I had UHaul install my Class III and wiring. They connected the wiring then just left it inside the container. Guess I have to route it out the back hatch to connect it if I ever use it. Ask tech at Saturn how they install it and they go through the knockout and cover the hole with a boot. I will use mine basically for the bike rack I purchased online. Good job. Just easier for me to pay $25 to have it installed as I assume they do it all the time and I could see my patience wearing thin while looking upside down trying to remember "righty..tighty, lefty...loosey". That's about the most technical talk I know in the mechanical world!!

[abbear]

In the compartment where the wire loop is is also a soft plug. I bent this to allow the wire to come out the bottom and back to the wiring connector (a 7 prong plug in my case). Used a zip tie attachment block and a zip tie to tidy the wiring up. Also got some sheathing to put around the wires for protection.

This was easy - the brake controller for the trailer was a little more interesting.

[WeeeZer14]

I know someone else has pics of the wiring, but I have some as well in my gallery including the following:


As for getting the part for $99, that was the price at the time. Is it different now?

[sspeer]

Just checked...it's 122 now

[BradJK]

Originally posted by John
And a few more...

CLICK ON ANY IMAGE TO SEE A LARGER VERSION



Hope this is of interest.

44 minutes. A new Saturnfans Record

according to the time on the photographs.

[mikebutkus]

I have a hitch and photos on my site.
www.butkus.org/saturn/saturn_vue.htm

[mr weather]

Kind of a silly question but...

How do you keep the frame rail bolts from spinning while you're screwing on the nuts? Do they lock into the metal "washers" or something?

[slowneo]

The 2 vertical bolts that are fished throught the bumper need to be carriage bolts.

The 4 horizontal bolts on the ends go into threaded holes in the frame (thoughtfully provided by the factory)