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Old 03-16-2009, 08:54 PM   #1
s3nfo
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2001 L-Series 3.0L Wagon
Default Log: Timing belt replacement

Day 1: Got all the parts in the mail from Rockauto and went out to "tear into it". First thing that's gotta go is the motor mount. Book calls for a top brace to hold the engine in place after the motor mount is removed, but that will interfere with getting the intake runners and plugs out so I can turn the engine to line up timing marks. There's really no good place to brace the engine on the bottom either. Finally just ended up putting a wood block under the oil pan and using a jack. Engine mount and serpentine belt come off easy. Crap, might as well replace the serp while it's off, so off to the store for a new serp belt ($25). Water pump drive sprocket comes off easy, but the power steering pump sprocket is a bear to get off. and still can't get the d@*n timing cover to come off and finally end up breaking it at the serp belt tensioner, but it's off. Wonder what that's gonna cost. 3 1/2 hours total invested

Day 2: Remove the front intake runner and spark plugs. Getting the back runner off is considerably harder than I remember from changing the plugs and takes me 2 hours just to get it off, but finally get all 6 plugs out. Got a late start and it's already getting dark and ya know, now that I've got the old plugs out, might as well replace them too. 5 1/2 hours total over 2 days and haven't even taken the old timing belt off yet.

...
Jerry N

"Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it, misdiagnosing it and then misapplying the wrong remedies."

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Old 03-17-2009, 09:18 AM   #2
santafos
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2001 L-Series 3.0L Wagon
Default Re: Log: Timing belt replacement

Hi
I will be doing the exact same thing to the exact same car. I am having a bit of difficulty deciding what timing belt kit to order and I am not sure what spark plugs will be best. Are you reusing the intake runner clamps? I have been told that they should be replaced but I have no Idea what to call them ( I do like the OEM low profile ones ) Looking forward to hearing about your progress.

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Old 03-17-2009, 09:30 AM   #3
webbkarz
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Default Re: Log: Timing belt replacement

reuse the old clamps, they're fine. As for the belt and plugs use what the dealership recommends. I believe the plugs are actually bosch GM plugs.

...
Del
'95 SC2
'93 BMW 325is
Tulsa, OK

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Old 03-17-2009, 09:34 AM   #4
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Default Re: Log: Timing belt replacement

here are the part numbers:

Timing belt- 09128500

Spark plugs- 09195166

Hope this helps.

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Del
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'93 BMW 325is
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Old 03-17-2009, 09:43 AM   #5
s3nfo
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Default Re: Log: Timing belt replacement

Rockauto timing belt kit. You get the belt, 2 tensioners, and idler all in one box.

I changed the clamps to 2" hose clamps when I did the spark plugs the first time 60K ago. I'll be reusing those 2" hose clamps this time.

...
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Old 03-18-2009, 09:25 AM   #6
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Default Re: Log: Timing belt replacement

Sick, sick, sick as a dog. Maybe get back to it tomorrow or Fri.

...
Jerry N

"Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it, misdiagnosing it and then misapplying the wrong remedies."

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Old 03-21-2009, 07:48 AM   #7
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Default Re: Log: Timing belt replacement

Day 3: Time to do what we came to do.
Take off the crank serp pully and finally time to get to the actual timing belt. Crank bolt is a big star bolt and I don't have a star socket that big, but a 15mm regular socket fits tight and will turn the engine. Lining everything up is a bit tricky, there's 4 marks, one for each cam sprocket, cut in the back of the timing cover and there are 2 marks on each sprocket. Good news is that there's only on way where everything will line up. As I recall it was the back marks on the front 2 sprockets and the front marks on the back 2 sprockets. Got it all lined up at TDC and locked the cam sprockets in place with 3 big nylon strap tyes on each bank. Loosened the tensioners and started to take the timing belt off.
Timing belt is not coming off with the serp tensioner still on the engine. You just can't get the belt off around the serp tensioner, so had to remove the 2 bolts and take the serp tensioner off the engine. Wish I'd known this earlier, I'd have taken the serp tensioner off on day one, which would've made getting the timing belt cover off 100% easier.
Now that the timing belt is off it's time to start putting everything back together and waterpump comes first. When you take the old waterpump out you're going to lose a lot of coolant. Be ready for it. Gasket for the new waterpump is a crushable "o" ring, much like the oil filter cap, but since it's crushable, it's not a tight fit in the groove. I put a small bead of red RTV in the groove to hold the "o" ring in place while I put the pump back on. Next I surfaced the face of the block where the pump seals with 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper on a small wood block. Put the new pump back in and bolt her up. Book calls for 89 lbs torque on the water pump bolts, but I didn't want to chance warping anything so did first pass at 50 lbs, 2nd pass at 70 lbs, 3rd pass at 80 lbs, then finally 89 lbs. You can't check for leaks once it's all back together, so gotta do it right the first time.
Next I hosed off all the spilled coolant so it wouldn't contaminate the new belt or tensioners and waited an hour for it to dry and mowed my lawn.
Next take off the plate with the idler and rear tensioner and replaced with the new tensioner and idler. Take off the front tensioner and leave it off.
Start putting the new belt on in the middle under the idler and work over the cam sprockets making sure the marks on the belt line up with the marks on the cover and the marks on the sprockets. Once you've got the top side all lined up take the belt around the tensioner (still loose) on the back side and then down under the crank sprocket. It won't fit on the crank sprocket with the front tensioner in place. Once you've got it under the crank sprocket and tight from the back tensioner to the crank sprocket, slip the front tensioner in place and bolt it on leaving it loose for now.
Got the new waterpump, new tensioners, new idler and new belt on today in 2 hours. 3 hours invested, but 1 hour of that was waiting for the engine bay to dry after I hosed off the spilled coolant.
Hopefully finish up tomorrow.

...
Jerry N

"Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it, misdiagnosing it and then misapplying the wrong remedies."

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Old 03-22-2009, 01:19 PM   #8
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Default Re: Log: Timing belt replacement

Day 4: Bringing it home.
Once the timing belt is back on, adjust the tensioners so the belt is tight. It's not as hard as it sounds. First crank the 2 tensioners on the cam bolts (these are really the idlers, but they do adjust tension) to the tightest setting and lock them down with the bolts, then adjust the spring loaded tensioner to the middle of the range. It's marked and a bit fiddly to do, but not that hard. Crank the engine around by hand a couple times to ensure there's no binding, clicking or anything hitting hard inside.
Put in the new plugs and re-assemble the intake runners.
Tighten everything one more time and take one last look. Reinstall the Timing Belt cover.
Put the crank serp pulley back on. It only goes on one way, 2 of the bolt holes are closer than the rest. I had to get out my calipers to determine which 2 were closest. reinstall the serp tensioner. reinstall the serp tensioner pulley. reinstall the power steering pulley. Bit of a tight fit, but it will pull down tight.
Install the new serp belt.
Reinstall the engine half of the engine mount. There's 3 bolts on the top and a long arm with 1 bolt down there. The bolt in the bottom hole doesn't fit after the mount is installed, so bolt has to be in the hole when you put the mount in.
Reinstall the frame side of the engine mount and tighten everything down.
Reinstall the airbox.

Done
3 1/2 hours invested today for a total of 11 hours.

Took a few trys to get it started, but once started it runs like a top.......

...
Jerry N

"Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it, misdiagnosing it and then misapplying the wrong remedies."

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Old 03-22-2009, 02:30 PM   #9
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Default Re: Log: Timing belt replacement

How much money do you figure you saved by doing everything yourself?
After reading the whole thread there really is something to be said for chain driven cams that require no replacement.
I commend you on your report.

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Old 03-22-2009, 04:08 PM   #10
s3nfo
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Default Re: Log: Timing belt replacement

I spent about $350 in parts and figure having everything done at the dealer would've cost around $1,100 and having it done by my local independent would've cost arount $900. So figure I saved between $550 and $750 depending on how you look at it.

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"Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it, misdiagnosing it and then misapplying the wrong remedies."

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Old 03-22-2009, 04:39 PM   #11
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Default Re: Log: Timing belt replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by s3nfo View Post
I spent about $350 in parts and figure having everything done at the dealer would've cost around $1,100 and having it done by my local independent would've cost arount $900. So figure I saved between $550 and $750 depending on how you look at it.
Good for you.

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Old 03-22-2009, 08:59 PM   #12
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Default Re: Log: Timing belt replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbird View Post
After reading the whole thread there really is something to be said for chain driven cams that require no replacement.
Timing chains also need to be replaced. They (in theory) make noise before they break or skip teeth. This allows you to change it before bad things happen. A belt gives no warning. This is why you change them at specified intervals. Warning - Saab for the same engine calls for a 100,000km (63,000mi) timing belt change interval. I wouldn't stretch this out too far.

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Old 03-23-2009, 10:35 AM   #13
s3nfo
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Default Re: Log: Timing belt replacement

116K miles on my original belt and it was still in pretty good shape. Just starting to show some wear in the middle of the teeth, but no cracks or major wear marks. 100K is pretty conservative looking at the condition of my belt, but if it breaks, it's catastrophic so I'm glad I did it.

...
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Old 03-23-2009, 02:23 PM   #14
Ex-GMtech
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Default Re: Log: Timing belt replacement

Nice work Jerry and nice write up. For those who are interested, you tap the steering pump pulley off with a hammer, but do it gently.
Now you can use that money for something else that is broken on the car...lol.

...
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Old 03-24-2009, 09:55 PM   #15
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Default Re: Log: Timing belt replacement

Jerry,

Welcome to the LS2/L300 "Changed the Timing Belt" club.

Just a small act of courage cranking it over for the 1st time, huh? I know I must have checked everything three times and pulled the engine through eight complete crankshaft revolutions before pronouncing it fit to start.

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Old 03-25-2009, 08:44 AM   #16
s3nfo
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Default Re: Log: Timing belt replacement

I actually finished early in the afternoon on Sat, but didn't get up the courage to start it until sun evening........
Drove it around the block Sun and then took me until Tue to get up the courage to drive it to work. Runs like a top though, even smoother than it was with the old belt.

...
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Old 03-25-2009, 11:28 AM   #17
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Default Re: Log: Timing belt replacement

Very encouraging that it went so well.
I got the kit and the water pump from Rock and got ready to do some inspection to prepare for my experience. Jacked the front end and removed the splash shield and found a whole bunch of oily grunge all over the lower and upper parts on the belt side.
Couldnít find any obvious source of the seepage and I am not loosing a lot of oil It is not the pan. No discernable cross contamination of the fluids so I am thinking a seal maybe? When I start the tear down this weekend and the timing belt cover comes off I guess Iíll know.
Steve

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Old 03-25-2009, 11:28 AM   #18
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Default Re: Log: Timing belt replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by born again View Post
Timing chains also need to be replaced. They (in theory) make noise before they break or skip teeth.
Everything will eventually break in time. Timing chains are designed to last the life of the engine without a need for replacement.

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Old 04-05-2009, 01:00 PM   #19
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Default Re: Log: Timing belt replacement

Hey
Cover is off and timing belt (old) is still on. The new water pump is on however this post said the water pump bolts were torqued to 89lbs? my Haynes and Alldata both say 18lbs. Am I missing something? Now would be the time to find out as I am about to remove the old belt after I make the reference marks and tie down the cams. I does seem that the belt is either going to be right on or way off ( one full tooth) given the size of the belt teeth. Gotta be done today cause first pitch is tomorrow
Steve.

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Old 04-05-2009, 02:19 PM   #20
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Default Re: Log: Timing belt replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by santafos View Post
Hey
Cover is off and timing belt (old) is still on. The new water pump is on however this post said the water pump bolts were torqued to 89lbs? my Haynes and Alldata both say 18lbs. Am I missing something? Now would be the time to find out as I am about to remove the old belt after I make the reference marks and tie down the cams. I does seem that the belt is either going to be right on or way off ( one full tooth) given the size of the belt teeth. Gotta be done today cause first pitch is tomorrow
Steve.
89 is too high. Go with the Haynes manual, I did.

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