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Old 12-10-2008, 02:30 PM   #1
wolfehunter
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1998 SL2
Default Idle adjustment?

Recently I developed an increased idle speed. It's actually a little strange how things are acting. Here is what happens: The car usually idles at just under 1000 rpm's. It is a 5 speed and it seems that it will now actually rev up between shifts while the clutch is in regardless of what rpm's I am shifting at. Also, if I am at a stop sign it will rev up to over 2000 rpm's for a few moments after I push in the clutch and then eventually fall to under 1000 rpm's like always.

It's really not an idle adjustment issue since it eventually drops back down to under 1000 but why would it be revving up between shifts or even with the clutch initially depressed? And I have driven manual for 28 years and I know I'm not on the gas peddle so that theory is out.

Could it be a vacuum hose issue?

Thanks,

Scott

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Old 12-10-2008, 02:39 PM   #2
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Default Re: Idle adjustment?

Vitals?

Assuming the car your talking about is a '98 SL2:

Replace the Engine COolant Temperature Sensor. This sensor is vital to the PCM Subsystems of the car including Idle rpms and the idle air control valve operation. Replace it following the videos in the how-to library.

A good cleaning of the throttle body is also a good idea.

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Old 12-10-2008, 02:57 PM   #3
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Post Re: Idle adjustment?

Quote:
Originally Posted by rc1488 View Post
Vitals?

Assuming the car your talking about is a '98 SL2:

Replace the Engine COolant Temperature Sensor. This sensor is vital to the PCM Subsystems of the car including Idle rpms and the idle air control valve operation. Replace it following the videos in the how-to library.
I had this same problem on a 1995 SC1 Manual. The ECTS was bad, but it also took out the ECTS connector. If there is any sign of corrosion on the ECTS connector, replace it as well. That intermittent connection will cause a high idle when warm.

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Old 12-10-2008, 04:42 PM   #4
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Default Re: Idle adjustment?

Yes,
It's the 98 SL2 (sorry). Thanks for the tips fellows. I'm off to get an ECTS sensor. I cleaned the throttle body sensor last summer but I suppose it could use cleaning again.

Thanks guys.

scott

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Old 12-10-2008, 07:29 PM   #5
Scott Peterson
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Default Re: Idle adjustment?

JUST pull your throttle body off and you can clean a whole lot more than your thinking ! and its easy.

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Old 12-15-2008, 07:55 PM   #6
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Default Re: Idle adjustment?

Replaced the ECTS sensor tonight although it didn't look bad. Figured that one had 158,000 miles on it so I replaced it. Still having the high idle issues so moving on to the throttle body and will clean it up good. How hard is it to remove so it can be cleaned more thoroughly?

Thanks,

Scott

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Old 12-15-2008, 08:09 PM   #7
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1998 SC2
Default Re: Idle adjustment?

Take the brace off that runs from the EGR bolt to the throttle body bolt. Do not drop the nuts as they will promptly fall into a parallel universe never to be seen again. Then hold the throttle open and with a small screw driver pick the throttle cable of of the quadrant and slip the barrel out of the notch. Unplug the IAC and TPS. Remove the 2 bolts holding it on the intake. Save the gasket as if it does not self destruct its still good. The process is covered in glorious living color in the richpin 3 part DIY video. Go to the How-To Library and look in the first post, its the links and index to the videos. Use the Forum Jump at the bottom of the is page. Watch the videos first....

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Old 12-16-2008, 11:17 AM   #8
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Default Re: Idle adjustment?

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldNuc View Post
....pick the throttle cable of of the quadrant ....
So THAT'S what it's called.

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Old 12-16-2008, 11:44 AM   #9
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Default Re: Idle adjustment?

Beats me, but that's what I called it. With any luck that's a bit quicker to type than - "That black doohickey that the cable is wrapped around and stuck into."

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Old 12-19-2008, 10:54 AM   #10
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Default Re: Idle adjustment?

I thoroughly cleaned the throttle body last night as it was really full of carbon. Thanks for the directions to the "How To" Library as the video was awesome! My kids had friends over and the wife was working late so I didn't get a chance to drive it. Only backed it out of the garage but I'm hoping it cured the high idle problem. Couldn't drive it to work today either because of the snow, ice and freezing rain......needed to take the 4X4. I'll keep you posted.

thanks again

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Old 12-22-2008, 12:55 PM   #11
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Default Re: Idle adjustment?

Drove the car to work this morning with no change in the idle. New ECTS and thorough cleaning of the throttle body. Where do I go next? I'm out of idle adjustment on the screw as it is backed all the way out not even touching the throttle bracket or whatever you would call that piece.

It is still idling at around 1800 rpm's which can make it awkward to drive as i'm slowing down for stopped traffic ahead but instead of slowing down when I get off the gas it is pushing me along at the 1800 or so rpm's. Occasionally when I shift the rpm's start to fall for only a moment and then it revs back up between shifts. However, if I sit long enough at a light or in my driveway the rpm's will eventually fall to 1000. Any ideas?

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Old 12-22-2008, 01:26 PM   #12
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1996 SW2
Default Re: Idle adjustment?

There is no idle adjustment screw. That's a throttle stop screw, that's set at the factory (or when the TB is replaced) and should NEVER be changed. If you can, put it back where it was, because it cannot be the cause of your high idle; if anything, the PCM is trying to adjust/atone for the fact that the throttle plate is closed too far.

Did you make sure your ECTS connector is clean and corrosion free (no copper-oxide green)? Does the temp gauge read as expected (gradual, steady rise to apprx. 3/8)? If not, the connector may need to be replaced.

Other things to check: throttle position sensor (TPS), idle air control (IACV, which is the thing that actually sets your idle, entirely controlled by the PCM).

Keep in mind, too, that the idle will ALWAYS be higher when the car is moving. It should settle down to 800-ish when you stop, but as long as the PCM detects the car is moving, it'll nudge the idle up to 1200-1400-ish.

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Old 12-22-2008, 01:27 PM   #13
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1998 SC2
Default Re: Idle adjustment?

Now that you turned that screw you will eventually have an other problem. You will need this little piece of information later: With the IAC intake port blocked with your finger the stop screw is adjusted to allow the engine to run at 500 RPM +/-. It is an important adjustment.

The present problem is a vacuum leak or a shot TPS. Start car and allow to warm up completely if 95 and earlier that means the gauge is at about 1/2 and if 96 and later its 3/8. Once warm turn it off and back on without touching the throttle. If the idle is now 800 or so its the TPS, go buy a new one from the dealer. The aftermarket one will give you problems.

Now, get a can of brake cleaner and start looking for the vacuum leak. The PCV hose can be your problem as well as the brake booster hose. There is a small plastic line off of the top of the throttle body that goes down to the purge solenoid, check that is on the solenoid.

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Old 12-22-2008, 01:35 PM   #14
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Default Re: Idle adjustment?

Dang it. should have checked with you guys first before messing around with this newer stuff. Thought I was "old school" working on an old quadrajet with an idle screw adjustment. Where is the IAC intake port?

The temp gauge works as it always did and I checked the ECTS connection and it was very clean with no gunk or discoloration.

Which sensor was the TPS? top or bottom? It's a 98.

Thanks so much.

Scott

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Old 12-22-2008, 01:40 PM   #15
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Default Re: Idle adjustment?

Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfehunter View Post
Where is the IAC intake port?
You'll see it when you remove the plastic intake snorkel from the TB. Toward the bottom rear, directed rear-ward. But if you cleaned the TB, that port should be clean.

Quote:
Which sensor was the TPS? top or bottom?
It's the only sensor on the TB. It's directly aft of the throttle plate. Imagine the throttle shaft continuing rear-ward outside the TB wall, turning a "volume control". That gizmo, where the shaft extends, is the TPS.

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Old 12-22-2008, 02:05 PM   #16
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Default Re: Idle adjustment?

The TPS is the top one. Don't spray anything into it.

You have to find and remove the cause of the high idle(vacuum leak probably) before tweaking the stop screw back. Contact and a 1/4 turn will be close.

Exactly what is the temp gauge reading when going down the road at 30 to 40 mph??

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Old 12-22-2008, 02:44 PM   #17
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Default Re: Idle adjustment?

Gauge always reads just a hair over the 1/4 mark when up to temp and running in that mph range. I honestly don't think the gauge moves much off that spot unless sitting idle for an extended time in hot weather.....it will then creep up and eventually the fan will kick on to cool it back down.

I will have to check the line that runs down to the purge solenoid when I get home tonight and I will also do the TPS test checking the idle.

Thanks for all the direction.

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Old 12-22-2008, 02:51 PM   #18
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Default Re: Idle adjustment?

You need a new thermostat. That just could be your idle problem, or a bunch of it.

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Old 12-22-2008, 03:16 PM   #19
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Default Re: Idle adjustment?

I bought the car with 82,000 miles on it so I suppose it is most likely the original. I'll replace the rascal and let you know. I'm going to ask before I start messing around......where is the stat located on a Saturn?

Thanks

Scott

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Old 12-22-2008, 04:23 PM   #20
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Default Re: Idle adjustment?

Underneath the A/C compressor. Take both ends of the lower hose off. Use 6 point deep socket and a short extension. Then you can slip a small piece of pipe over the ratchet handle to break the 2 bolts free. As you might suppose the original torque spec is wildly excessive. The flange seals with an o-ring so coat the bolts with a bit of RTV and put them back in snug, they will not fall out. Use a little to hold the o ring till ist all bolted up. Thermostat comes with an installation/removal tool, you need it. Also comes with instructions. If you happen to live where it gets cold a 195F thermostat is a good idea or if its a bit warmer the OEM 87C will work well. The Saturn dealer can be expensive. The aftermarket is 18.00 or so.

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