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Old 07-26-2008, 02:27 PM   #1
ziprhead
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Default What is the "Drive Cycle" needed to reset the engine code

Hi,

I'm not sure I'm calling this the right thing which may explain me not being able to find it in the search. But, I have had my check engine light reset and I think (hope) that my problem is fixed, however I understand that there is a certain "drive cycle" that cars need to go through before they have all the information they need to verify that the emissions systems on the car is indeed running properly.

I have heard some people say a certain number of miles, etc.?

It will need to be smog checked, and I don't want to pay just to find out that the computer doesn't have enough data to give an ok. Also, for my own peace of mind I would like to know at what point the car has passed the point of throwing the code again. (although I realize that it could still be an intermittent problem and throw the code a month later anyway)

Thanks!

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Old 07-26-2008, 05:05 PM   #2
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Default Re: What is the "Drive Cycle" needed to reset the engine code

I think I've heard 50 miles...and then I've heard a certain amount of open/closed loops. But if you're just trying to reset an SES code, the local auto parts store can usually do that for you.

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Old 07-26-2008, 05:20 PM   #3
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Default Re: What is the "Drive Cycle" needed to reset the engine code

Thanks, yeah I had it reset and just wanted to know how long before the computer has enough data collected to either trip the light again, or give the ok signal.

50 miles sounds reasonable.. What is an open/close loop? is that a starting/ turning off the car?

Thanks for the help.

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Old 07-26-2008, 07:39 PM   #4
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Default Re: What is the "Drive Cycle" needed to reset the engine code

Take a 20 min drive through traffic and on a highway where you can get about 5 to 10 min of cruise time at over 45 mph. Shut it off and go somewhere for lunch. Start it back up and repeat. That should do it for sure.

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Old 07-26-2008, 10:37 PM   #5
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Default Re: What is the "Drive Cycle" needed to reset the engine code

Quote:
Originally Posted by ziprhead View Post
50 miles sounds reasonable.. What is an open/close loop? is that a starting/ turning off the car?
Before I bought my L300 I didn't have a clue too. Open/closed loop is in reference to the BIG BROTHER mandates of emissions control. Essentially, when a car is first started and coolant temperatures are below operating levels the PCM (engine computer) runs in open loop mode where the engine is running as rich as possible to quickly warm up, emissions fall by the wayside, until warm up is complete. The PCM detects the warmed up engine and enters closed loop mode where emissions are closely monitored by the O2 sensor. The O2 sensor is useless below 600F and the main reason open loop is used at the beginning of a cold engine start otherwise a HOT O2 sensor can be used immediately but not after a simple engine shutdown. The exhaust keeps the temps above the 600F operating temperature required to keep the O2 sensor working.

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Old 07-27-2008, 09:14 AM   #6
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Default Re: What is the "Drive Cycle" needed to reset the engine code

Check out the inspection laws in your state. I'm in New York where up to 2
readiness monitors can be in not ready mode and you still pass inspection.

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Old 07-27-2008, 12:28 PM   #7
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Default Re: What is the "Drive Cycle" needed to reset the engine code

There answer to your question is here:

Quote:
OBD-II Driving Cycle
If you have a 96 or newer vehicle you have the OBD-II diagnostic system. This system is constantly monitoring the sensors and solenoids on the engine. If you have replaced the battery, disconnected the battery or cleared the codes after making a repair you will need to do what is called a "Driving Cycle". This will perform a diagnostic on all the systems the computer monitors. This cycle can be done in under fifteen minutes.

To perform an OBDII Driving cycle do the following:

1. Cold Start
In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50C (122F) and within 6C (11F) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.

2. Idle
The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on maximum and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.

3. Accelerate
Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.

4. Hold Steady Speed
Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

5. Decelerate
Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

6. Accelerate
Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.

7. Hold Steady Speed
Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.

8. Decelerate
This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.

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Old 07-27-2008, 08:16 PM   #8
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Default Re: What is the "Drive Cycle" needed to reset the engine code

Zipr, it helps if you add an approximate location and your car's vitals to your profile..

Once you've completed the driving cycle Low suggested, go back to the place that reset the code. Their scanner will also indicate which checks are complete, any that are still due and show any pending codes that may have been recorded (make sure they don't re-set it!). If all are complete, and there are no pending codes you should be good to go.

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Added OEM CC

Last edited by off-track; 07-27-2008 at 08:23 PM..

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Old 03-04-2013, 09:00 PM   #9
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Default Re: What is the "Drive Cycle" needed to reset the engine code

Hey Low Saturn, I have a 2006 Ion (Sedan) and I have problems to activate the EVAP Monitor, All the rest of the Monitors are OK, only that one. What is the best and fastest way to activate that one!!!

Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Saturn View Post
There answer to your question is here:

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Old 03-05-2013, 12:50 AM   #10
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Default Re: What is the "Drive Cycle" needed to reset the engine code

Quote:
Originally Posted by ragde22 View Post
Hey Low Saturn, I have a 2006 Ion (Sedan) and I have problems to activate the EVAP Monitor, All the rest of the Monitors are OK, only that one. What is the best and fastest way to activate that one!!!

Thanks.
This is a S series forum. You need to post this in the Ion section.

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Old 03-05-2013, 12:55 AM   #11
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Attention Re: What is the "Drive Cycle" needed to reset the engine code

Sorry, I will.

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Old 06-07-2015, 03:58 PM   #12
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Default Re: What is the "Drive Cycle" needed to reset the engine code

I read the following, here. I know it's an old thread but it is something that I need to know since I did just replace the battery (among a bunch of other things)

To perform an OBDII Driving cycle do the following:

1. Cold Start
In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50C (122F) and within 6C (11F) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.

2. Idle
The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on maximum and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.

3. Accelerate
Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.

4. Hold Steady Speed
Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

5. Decelerate
Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

6. Accelerate
Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.

7. Hold Steady Speed
Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.

8. Decelerate
This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.

Question...

Are there any exceptions to this order.

I just drove, almost all highway speeds (except for stopping for gas or a a motel which required slower speeds, obviously) for about 1100 miles since the battery replacement. The car runs GREAT when it is warmed up. Can't even tell that the engine is running. But, I notice that , when cold, the idle is high (not too bad, 1200) but the engine runs not only at higher rpms but also not nearly as smoothly as when warmed up.

Do I need to pull the fuse to the PCM (wherever that is) and start this cycle all over...or should the drive I've been on have "taught" the PCM how to regulate things?

I have changed batteries before in this car and never noticed this symptom, before.

Thanks

P.S. I guess I ought to mention that there is no check engine light nor has the gas mileage suffered. I am getting 38+ at highway speeds of 65-75.

Last edited by Mister_Cee; 06-07-2015 at 04:11 PM..

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Old 06-07-2015, 05:48 PM   #13
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Default Re: What is the "Drive Cycle" needed to reset the engine code

The drive cycle, no matter who describes it or how its done on any car after manually resetting the engine computer by fuse removal or battery disconnect does the same thing; erasing all memorized custom learned emissions parameters as if the car just left the factory assembly line. All OBD II EFI systems performs emissions self tests every time the engine is started, car driven. Every time. The drive cycle is the minimum mileage needed to perform a complete emissions self test while driving a car thru every variable necessary to meet emissions self tests. To perform a drive cycle without the torturous adherence to guidelines is to simply drive a car normally for a few days. Most if not all emissions tests are fulfilled just driving every day. The best way to know when a drive cycle is met? Plug in a reader that shows readiness monitors "Not Ready" after battery or fuse disconnect. Once a drive cycle meets emissions testing the monitors will display all or some still not meeting 'ready' status. A complete emissions test will change the display from not ready to ready, meaning the car has completed all emissions self tests and will pass state emissions inspection. A reader can help to determine when self test emissions are done by the "ready" status.

Performing a manual reset only forces the emissions self tests to start all over again from the beginning. If you have the time and money to waste, this would be a good way to waste your time otherwise leave the battery connected and do not perform any resets. All OBD II diagnostics are automatic and performed every time the engine is started. Resetting defeats this automatic function by starting from the beginning. Allowing the EFI system to learn new emissions parameters customizes the EFI system to what's being used and presuming all emissions parts are in operating condition, the emissions self tests will eventually learn and adapt to new emissions parameters. These new parameters are automatically memorized unless someone performs a battery disconnect or pulls the pcm/ecm fuse. Checking with a reader capable of displaying the readiness status is the easiest way to know when its finished. Once learned with new parameters, the emissions self tests continue by monitoring them on every engine run - when an emissions sensor fails, the OBD II detects it and turns on the check engine light. The simple loose gas cap that turns on the cel is easily reset by not disconnecting the battery, pulling fuses or using the reset button on readers. Just tightening the gas cap and letting the OBD II system detect it over the course of one to three engine run cycles will turn off the cel. Without forcing the entire emissions self test to start from the beginning with a 50 mile drive. Since all other sensors are working and only a leak error is detected, the loose gas cap tightened is detected with the OBD II system ensuring up to three engine runs won't detect a leak and turn off the cel. Other error codes corrected by repair(s) are detected with the cel turning off either before the engine is started or right after.

Last edited by fdryer; 06-07-2015 at 06:01 PM..

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Old 06-07-2015, 06:15 PM   #14
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Default Re: What is the "Drive Cycle" needed to reset the engine code

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mister_Cee View Post
I read the following, here. I know it's an old thread but it is something that I need to know since I did just replace the battery (among a bunch of other things)

To perform an OBDII Driving cycle do the following:

1. Cold Start
In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50C (122F) and within 6C (11F) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.

2. Idle
The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on maximum and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.

3. Accelerate
Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.

4. Hold Steady Speed
Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

5. Decelerate
Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

6. Accelerate
Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.

7. Hold Steady Speed
Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.

8. Decelerate
This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.

Question...

Are there any exceptions to this order.

I just drove, almost all highway speeds (except for stopping for gas or a a motel which required slower speeds, obviously) for about 1100 miles since the battery replacement. The car runs GREAT when it is warmed up. Can't even tell that the engine is running. But, I notice that , when cold, the idle is high (not too bad, 1200) but the engine runs not only at higher rpms but also not nearly as smoothly as when warmed up.

Do I need to pull the fuse to the PCM (wherever that is) and start this cycle all over...or should the drive I've been on have "taught" the PCM how to regulate things?

I have changed batteries before in this car and never noticed this symptom, before.

Thanks

P.S. I guess I ought to mention that there is no check engine light nor has the gas mileage suffered. I am getting 38+ at highway speeds of 65-75.

The drive cycle will have absolutely no impact on your 1200 RPM idle. Regardless of what you read or are told. The drive cycle is the text book procedure for resetting the EPA mandated emissions condition monitors only

If you would like to be rid of the high idle it will require some maintenance history to start figuring out what might be the problem/cause.
That would include engine and transmission info and general parts replacement and inspections. It should also include how long this elevated RPM condition has existed.

Engine at less than operating temperature will run a high idle by design. This should drop to the normal hot idle within 5 minutes or so max if you sit and wait for it to happen. Rough idle cold and not a rough idle hot indicates there is a problem.

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Old 06-08-2015, 01:04 AM   #15
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Default Re: What is the "Drive Cycle" needed to reset the engine code

Thanks for the replies.

Once the car warms up, it runs like new and I couldn't be more pleased.

As far as history goes, a definite miss on acceleration started showing up a few weeks ago. I immediately had plugs/plug wires /fuel filter replaced and the throttle body cleaned. I didn't want to drive it with something definitely amiss plus I didn't think it would pass emissions testing (even if I was the type to drive it around with an obvious problem).

Before that particular service, the car never ran rough at cold start even though the rpms were accelerated until it warmed .

Following the previous service, I did have the car emissions tested and it passed, although by the time I'd driven to the smog test station, the car was warm and running pretty smoothly.

Upon startup, I kept feeling this rough idle and had the motor mounts and transmission mounts replaced, thinking that might be the solution. I don't usually "throw parts" at a problem, but it HAD been a long time since any mounts were changed (only one had EVER been done, according to my records) and I'd been told they needed replacing before so I figured I'd give that a try. Didn't really make any difference.

Then in talking with OldNuc he asked me which plugs had been installed and how the plug to coil wires had been routed. When I had a plug pulled I found that the plugs that had been sent to the auto shop had been mis-boxed and were, indeed, the incorrect plugs. I had those replaced with the proper NGKs and checked the plug to coil wiring. The car was running smooth as glass. But..I failed to figure in that, by the time I drove the car to the shop, had the plugs replaced and picked the car up, the engine was warm and running smoothly.

During this time period I also replaced the battery. That's where the drive cycle question came from.

All I can think of is that something may have happened during the initial plugs/wires/fuel filter and throttle body cleaning.

I only "know" what I read and some say the 1200 rpm idle at cold start isn't abnormal. I probably would go with that if I hadn't owned the car since new and never felt a rough idle , even at cold start, before now.

As I said, once warmed up the SW2 runs as it did right from day one and I'm very happy about that. As I said before, I'm getting great gas mileage.

As long as it is not harming anything, I could get used to the "new normal" (although I'd prefer smooth running from the time I hit the ignition). However, it is summer now and the car eventually warms up. I think it will drive me crazy if, in the winter (when I drive short distances and the car never heats up) it never warms up enough to smooth out.

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Old 06-08-2015, 01:50 AM   #16
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Default Re: What is the "Drive Cycle" needed to reset the engine code

A cold engine start up usually runs a higher idle, around 1200 rpm to prevent stalling. As the engine warms up the high idling continually drops until it stabilizes around 800-900 rpm. The drive cycle is only needed when manually resetting the pcm by using a reader's reset function, pulling pcm fuse(s) or battery disconnect. A normal drive to and from work or errands substitutes as a drive cycle, just takes a little longer. Most members simply drive their cars for a few days and/or use a reader to determine when their emissions are 'ready' before emissions inspection.. Using a reader will display when a ready status shows the emissions self tests have fulfilled all parameters to meet state/federal regulations.

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Old 06-08-2015, 07:33 AM   #17
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Default Re: What is the "Drive Cycle" needed to reset the engine code

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mister_Cee View Post
...

All I can think of is that something may have happened during the initial plugs/wires/fuel filter and throttle body cleaning.

I only "know" what I read and some say the 1200 rpm idle at cold start isn't abnormal. I probably would go with that if I hadn't owned the car since new and never felt a rough idle , even at cold start, before now.

...
A rough initial idle is usually an issue with ignition, that would be plugs and wires or the ignition module.

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Old 06-08-2015, 11:23 AM   #18
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1996 SL1
Default Re: What is the "Drive Cycle" needed to reset the engine code

My 2002 SL1 from a cold start takes around 45 seconds to a minute to go closed loop. Engine temp is still cold. Like, 100-120 degrees cold. Then the Target AFR goes from around 11:1 to 13:1 and as engine warms the target AFR slowly creeps up to 14.7:1. Around 180 degrees to 185 degrees it's at 14.7:1.

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Old 06-08-2015, 08:52 PM   #19
Mister_Cee
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1996 SW2
Default Re: What is the "Drive Cycle" needed to reset the engine code

I didn't start he car and let it idle to see how long it would take to come down to 900 rpm. I did, however run an errand while the rpms were still at 1200-1300. By the time I arrived at the destination (3 miles) all had settled into the 900 rpm "groove".

Since I now know that the correct plugs are installed (finally), does anyone have any information (one way or the other) about a wire set labeled DLG 7mm Silicon Suppression 1230 14?

I'm more than thankful for your advice that got me to this point. Because of your help the car is running at about 99% of what I 'd like. This is more a quest now, than anything else...too see if I can locate that "missing" percentage point.

What a great place this is !

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Old 06-08-2015, 10:43 PM   #20
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1996 SL1
Default Re: What is the "Drive Cycle" needed to reset the engine code

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mister_Cee View Post
I didn't start he car and let it idle to see how long it would take to come down to 900 rpm. I did, however run an errand while the rpms were still at 1200-1300. By the time I arrived at the destination (3 miles) all had settled into the 900 rpm "groove".

Since I now know that the correct plugs are installed (finally), does anyone have any information (one way or the other) about a wire set labeled DLG 7mm Silicon Suppression 1230 14?

I'm more than thankful for your advice that got me to this point. Because of your help the car is running at about 99% of what I 'd like. This is more a quest now, than anything else...too see if I can locate that "missing" percentage point.

What a great place this is !
It looks like you have 7mm arch suppression wire set. To me arch suppression wires are steel core and they don't ware out. They should last a long time. Only thing that fails is the boot pulling off.

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