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Old 06-14-2008, 11:50 AM   #1
.kevin.
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Default Brake master cylinder.

Alright, well if anyone wants to learn about brakes and learn from my problems, they can most likely search all my threads. So this has been an on going thing for about 3-4 weeks now.

I replaced the drivers side caliper because the pivot bolt broke off. Upon replacing, the fluid in the line emptied. I then tried to bleed the brakes and the preasure was still sub-par.

Now fast forward to today. I went out to bleed them again thinking I may have missed something and their is still air in the system. So myself and another individual used the one man bleeder kit, having one person pump, and one watching the hose to see when the air was all the way out. I went through a quart of fluid for ONE line and I am still getting air every pump. I am not talking about little bubbles either, I mean these are like half inch portions of the hose if full of air each pump.

So my conclusion is nothing. Is my master cylinder shot then? I find it hard to believe I need to flush MORE than a qt. of fluid through one line to get the air out of it.

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Old 06-14-2008, 12:44 PM   #2
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Default Re: Brake master cylinder.

I assume you are keeping the master cyl full the whole time?

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Old 06-14-2008, 03:01 PM   #3
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Default Re: Brake master cylinder.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PurdueGuy View Post
I assume you are keeping the master cyl full the whole time?
Yes. So I was talking to the guy in Napa and he explained that I should try it the old fashion way by having one person work the bleeder valve and one the pedal. I tried that way. The front two and the drivers rear all came out good, no large bubbles or air. Now the rear one is still spitting large bubbles out. So I think I can assume it's not the master cyl.? I want to figure this out badly as I have NEVER taken a car to a shop to be fixed.

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Old 06-14-2008, 08:53 PM   #4
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Default Re: Brake master cylinder.

Is it a rear disk or drum brake?

When bleeding brakes it is best to pump up the system and then crack the bleeder screw while holding pressure on the pedal. Close screw before the pedal hits the floor. Allow the pedal to return slowly so as not to suck air past the seals. With 2 people one can work the pedal by hand which helps also. If you let the pedal fly back under spring pressure from all the way down sucking in air is not uncommon.

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Old 06-14-2008, 10:47 PM   #5
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Default Re: Brake master cylinder.

Readddd:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...edbrakes.shtml

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Old 06-15-2008, 12:47 AM   #6
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Default Re: Brake master cylinder.

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Originally Posted by rc1488 View Post

I understand how to bleed the brakes. Like I said all the other three came out fine. The pass. rear was the one with constant air..... Could the piston in the rear drum be letting air in the system?

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Old 06-15-2008, 05:55 AM   #7
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Default Re: Brake master cylinder.

Try Googling for images of the brake system, any system as they're all the same for a car. When you bleed brakes most directions say to open the bleed valves about a quarter turn from lock position; anymore turning may allow air in behind the bleeder itself giving a false impression that there's air in the brake line. Some instructions say to use some Teflon tape wrapped around the bleeder, not for sealing but to lessen the chances of air being pulled in as fluid is bled out. Is it possible that you're opening the bleeder too much? If in doubt you can always replace the bleed valve. Just prop up the brake pedal (to prevent it from falling by its own weight and applying brake pressure) remove the bleed screw, plug the opening with something like a rolled up napkin so the fluid won't drain out, and match a replacement at the auto store. Before you run to the store make sure the brake pedal doesn't move otherwise when you come back you'll find fluid dripping out the open brake cylinder!? The napkin just holds back fluid from flowing but will easily pop out at the slightest application of brake pressure.

BTW, from your last post you're describing the passenger side rear along with the driver's front caliper that was replaced. This is one half of the brake system, if I'm not mistaken, so the brake line in question covers just this side. You won't have to worry about the other half, just concentrate on the one line feeding from the master to the R-R and L-F.

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Old 06-16-2008, 11:14 AM   #8
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Default Re: Brake master cylinder.

Hate to tell you this now, but NOTHING was wrong with your caliper, or anything hydraulic. When the pivot pin breaks, it breaks off in the BRACKET. You could've remove the caliper, hung it up, removed the bracket and replaced it, gotten some hew pins, put the caliper back on the bracket and been on your way (guess how I know this...).

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Old 06-16-2008, 11:23 AM   #9
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Default Re: Brake master cylinder.

Bench bleed the master cylinder before bleeding the wheels.

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Old 06-16-2008, 11:54 AM   #10
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Default Re: Brake master cylinder.

Quote:
Originally Posted by madpogue View Post
Hate to tell you this now, but NOTHING was wrong with your caliper, or anything hydraulic. When the pivot pin breaks, it breaks off in the BRACKET. You could've remove the caliper, hung it up, removed the bracket and replaced it, gotten some hew pins, put the caliper back on the bracket and been on your way (guess how I know this...).
I knew this right off the bat. The bracket shipped was 22$ I believe and I got a caliper from NAPA for 40 - my $2 coupon. So I figured what the heck because you have to buy a new pin bolt and then the rubber boot that surrounds it. So the diff. ended up being only a few dollars.



Fdryer- I think what you are saying was my problem. I mentioned that to the person helping me bleed the brakes as I did not know if the screw was opened more if air was allowed in. I was turing the screw maybe half way to 3/4 of a way, so that most likely was it. The brakes are tight, but the pedal just goes down far and it is not spongy. I guess I am used to the s2000's supurb brakes that it makes me question these.


Gerry Proctor- Why would I bench bleed the master cyl.? I never let it run dry nor did I replace it.

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Old 06-16-2008, 12:01 PM   #11
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Default Re: Brake master cylinder.

Quote:
Originally Posted by .kevin. View Post
I knew this right off the bat. The bracket shipped was 22$ I believe and I got a caliper from NAPA for 40 - my $2 coupon. So I figured what the heck because you have to buy a new pin bolt and then the rubber boot that surrounds it. So the diff. ended up being only a few dollars.
Yup, I found only ONE place that the bracket stand-alone. Most stores only had the "caliper with bracket". Still, if I only had that choice, I woulda swapped in the bracket, and held onto the caliper for a "rainy day", or sold it on the classifieds here, for the express purpose of avoiding opening up the hydraulics ("if it ain't broke...").

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